Posts by James Fisher11

It's possible, but honestly, 😁 you're better off grabbing a much stronger GPU right now and just adding more RAM later on since that stuff is dirt cheap these days.

1 x ASUS P67A-C43, Socket : 1155, Sandy Bridge, Intel P67, 4xDDR3
1 x Procesor Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz,1MB/6MB,95W,Socket 1155
1 x Napajanje Corsair 600W, GS Series, 600 Watt, ATX12V v2.3
1 x Dell GH24NS, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R ,8x DL , 40x CD-R
1 x CoolerMaster Elite 430, black, window, (W)190 x (H)424 x (L)490
1 x SCYTHE Mugen 2 Rev B, SCMG-2100, Socket 478/775/1156/1366/754/93
1 x SCYTHE Slip Stream 120mm 1200 rpm, SY1225SL12M, 24.00dBA
1 x HDD WD 750GB. 7502AAEX, SATA 3, 64MB, 7200 rpm, Caviar black
1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Corsair, 1600MHz, 9-9-9-24, Vengeance Heats.
1 x ASUS GTX 570 TwinFrozr ii OC, 1280MB GDDR5 320 bits
$2333

Do you really need anything more than one fan placed at the rear? The case already has one in the front, so that should be plenty. Besides, wouldn't it look strange? You'd have to put a third one right on the window of the case. 😁

Are you out of your mind? $167 Paying that much for an old GPU instead of something NEW with 512MB DDR3
I'd honestly rather just go stretch my legs for $17 than deal with that. Just grab this
http://www.bestbuy.com/product_info.php?c...oducts_id=7946
It’s a hundred times better.

EDIT: Take a look at what else they have in stock. There are plenty of newer cards available for a lower price.
http://www.bestbuy.com/product_info.php?c...oducts_id=8926
http://www.bestbuy.com/product_info.php?c...oducts_id=9935

No, just setting up the office. Anyway, how long do you think it'll take for that 4850, and what's the exact

Alright, here is the new rule from now on
1. PRE-BUILT CONFIGURATIONS ARE JUNK
If you had actually paid attention to what was being said here, you would see that a solid setup is right in front of you. I've listed some configurations up to $5k—just pick one and be done with it.
And for a monitor, check this out:

Honestly, he should just grab a Corsair or maybe even an Corsair A50 and call it a day 👍 (once he actually saves up enough cash, obviously)
.

That motherboard won't work with that CPU. You need a P67 or an H67 chipset. You’re already planning on buying a cooler later, yet you went ahead and picked up a Core i5-2500—the non-K version—which can't even be overclocked. Why bother? You need the Core i5-2500K, a P67 board, and a new power supply because that CX 500 is absolute junk.

Here is what a real build looks like:

1 x MSI P67A-C43, Socket: 1155, Sandy Bridge, Intel P67, 4xDDR3
1 x Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz, 1MB/6MB, 95W, Socket 1155
1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingmax, 1333MHz
1 x XFX Core edition 80 2GB DDR5 800M, DVI, DisplayPort, Eyefinity
1 x HDD SAMSUNG 500GB 7200rpm 16MB cache Serial ATA II-300, F3
1 x XFX Core edition 80 550W PSU - EasyRail technology
1 x CoolerMaster Elite 370, Black, (W)190 x (H)424 x (L)481 mm, 4.7kg
$1828

And why on earth are you asking people to put a PC together for you when you're clearly just going to assemble it yourself and ask for opinions anyway?
They gave you a "Best Buy" configuration tailored to your $500 budget, but you're still out here trying to piece together random parts. If you keep acting like this, you're never actually going to own a computer.😁

Paul Wright7 said:My suggestion:

ASUS P8P67-M Motherboard
Intel i5 2500k Processor, Sandy Bridge, LGA 1155, 3300 MHz
Corsair 4 GB DDR3 Memory, 1333 MHz
Gigabyte Graphics Card, ATI Radeon HD6950, 2 GB
500 GB Hard Drive, Samsung Spinpoint F3, 3.5", SATA II
Arctic Cooling Freezer Xtreme
Cooler Master Elita 430 RC Case
Seasonic SS-520GB Power Supply, ATX 2, 520 W

5,198.10 - Hertz Happy Hour sale

http://www.hgspot.com/page/2/veseli-s...iti-happy-hour

1. ASUS P8P67-M Motherboard, LGA 1155 0201307 $329
2. Arctic Cooling Freezer Xtreme Rev. 2, compatible with 775/1156/1366/754/939/AM2/AM3 047331 $98
3. Intel i5 2500k Processor, Sandy Bridge, 3300 MHz, LGA 1155 0300409 $560
4. 500 GB Hard Drive, Samsung Spinpoint F3, 3.5", SATA II 0140206 $114
5. Corsair 4 GB DDR3 Memory, 1333 MHz C9CMV4GX3M1A1333C9, DIMM 051039 $117
6. Seasonic SS-520GB Power Supply, ATX 2, 520 W 045353 $190
7. Gigabyte Graphics Card, ATI Radeon HD6950, 2 GB, PCI Express 2.1 gig-gv-r695d5-2gd $719
8. Cooler Master Elita 430 RC Case, MIDI, black, plexi 052145 $107
Total: $2233

If you subtract 10% from 6,699.40 and get 5,198.10, then honestly, I don't know who here thinks they're three years old.
Were you actually surprised that nobody buys anything at Hertz junk stores when the prices and discounts are this insane?

EDIT: ''
What I am proposing is the absolute lowest possible price for specific components. (Clearly, some people can't grasp rational thought because they either have too much money or not enough brains).

The way you act here is like a toddler who needs a lollipop every ten seconds or they start screaming.

Now that we can see actual decent prices instead of those random numbers you pull out of thin air, I notice you'll wait two weeks just to pay for something $2000 , while I'm willing to wait three days to get the exact same thing for $5,500.

@bluefalcon2

Look, Hertz is overpriced. There's no way, even with a 20% discount, that it matches what you'd find at Best Buy, Micro Center, or I don't know, Newegg. (Maybe some budget site is cheapest, but they're useless when it comes to warranty).

1 x MSI P67A-C43, Socket: 1155, Sandy Bridge, Intel P67, 4xDDR3
1 x Intel Core i5-2500K Processor 3.3GHz, 1MB/6MB, 95W, LGA 1155
1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingmax, 1333MHz
1 x SAMSUNG 500GB HDD 7200rpm 16MB cache Serial ATA II-300, F3
1 x Coolermaster Elite 310, MIDI, black-blue, no PSU
1 x XFX Core Edition 80 550W PSU - EasyRail technology
1 x SCYTHE Kabuto SCKBT-1000, socket 478/775/LGA1366/754/940/939/AM2
1 x MSI GTX 560 TwinFrozr II OC 1024MB GDDR5 256 bit + 3 games
$1845

This build is $133 cheaper than yours and better (you forgot to include a hard drive).
Personally, I'd rather have someone at Micro Center put together something killer for $5,500 (some parts are cheaper there), and they'll assemble it all for free—doesn't matter if you didn't grab a GPU right then (they wouldn't build mine for free before because I couldn't order a card yet).
Unless, of course, you don't want to kill yourself like I do, spending from noon until dark building a PC. 😁

Paul Wright7 said:My suggestion:

Asus P8P67-M motherboard
Intel Core i5-2500K processor, Sandy Bridge, socket 1155, 3.3 GHz
Corsair 4 GB DDR3 memory, 1333 MHz
Gigabyte graphics card, ATI Radeon HD6950, 2 GB
500 GB hard drive, Samsung Spinpoint F3, 3.5", SATA II
sat ii Cooler ARCTIC COOLING Freezer Xtreme
Cooler master elita 430 RC case
Seasonic SS-520GB power supply, ATX 2, 520 W

$5,198.10 - HGspot happy hour sale

http://www.hgspot.com/page/2/veseli-s...iti-happy-hour

In a perfect world, he’d have to buy one single part every day. That would be absolute madness. Unless he’s willing to risk everything by staying awake every single afternoon between 1:00 and 2:00, maybe after a week he'd actually see his computer plus shipping—or more likely, two weeks!
+ If he misses just one day or sleeps through his window, he’s stuck waiting another entire week just to buy something else.
Stop messing around with this "happy hour" nonsense. Why can't a guy just order from an established retailer or MagazineRS and get his rig in three days? It would be simple and done.

Personally, I think dustyskipper77’s second build is the best one here.

Main board desktop MSI P67A-C45 iP67
CPU desktop Core i5-2500K
PSU XFX Core edition 80 550 w
GIGABYTE case GZX8
Seagate, 500GB, 7200 rpm, 16MB, SATA 3Gb
Kingmax 4GB, 2X2GB module, DDRIII 1333 n
VGA ATI XFX HD6950 2GB

5,$86 MagazineRS

No, absolutely not. I wouldn't dream of handing you cash for that. All three of us already agreed on building a much better rig than that one anyway. That setup for $550? It’s honestly worse than what we've put together.
And don't forget, we all factored in our own cases; I'm using a Cooler master elita 430 RC, crimsonstag84 went with a Cooler master elite 370, and dustyskipper77 is running a Gigabyte gzx8.
As for that Bulldozer stuff, we were talking about that specific processor slated for release this summer. Word on the street is it might actually outperform Sandy brid.

bluefalcon2 said:Thanks a ton for the quick reply. 👍
I might end up looking stupid here, but what exactly is
OC? Or did you mean OS? 🤷

OC stands for overclocking. By tweaking certain settings in your BIOS, you can actually bump up the frequency of your CPU, RAM, or even your graphics card. For example, if your processor is running at 3.3 GHz right now, you could overclock it to hit 4.0 GHz—though you’re definitely going to need a decent cooler for that. Then again, on some modern boards, you don't even have to touch the BIOS to do any overclocking. Take my setup, for instance; I’ve got this Asrock 790 GX paired with an AMD Phenom ii x4 955 Black Editon, so I can just use a single software tool to crank up the frequency in just a few clicks with the ASrock overclocking tuner.

crimsonstag84 said:1 x MSI 870-C45, AMD 770 + SB710, S. AM3, 6xSATA 3 RAID, DDR3 800/10
1 x Processor AMD Phenom ii x4 955 Black Editon, socket AM3, BOX, C3
1 x DDR3 4GB (2x2GB) Kingmax, 1333MHz, FLFE
1 x HDD SAMSUNG 500GB 7200rpm 16MB cache Serial ATA II-300, Samsung Spinpoint F3
1 x DVD burner LG GH24NS, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R, 8x DL, 40x CD-R
1 x CoolerMaster Elite 370, black, (W)190 x (H)424 x (L)481 mm, 4.7kg
1 x Gigabyte HD6970, 2GB GDDR5, DVI-I/DBI-D + HDMI, PCI-E 2.1
1 x XFX Core edition 80 550 w 5,277.15 KN MagazinRS PSU - EasyRail technology

$1717

Honestly, given how much sense it makes to go for the AM3 platform right now, maybe it's smarter to just wait for the Bulldozers to drop and then grab one of those 4-core Dozer chips.😁

Maybe just grab an AM3+ motherboard instead? Though, let's be real, those things are absolute garbage. It might be better to just pick up that 955 BE for now, and when the time comes for the Bulldozer era, sell the old gear and upgrade then.

First of All, these pre-built bundles are absolute junk. You end up paying way too much money for a bunch of mediocre parts that barely hold up.

1 x Coolermaster Elite 310, MIDI, black-blue, no PSU
1 x MSI P67A-C43, Socket : 1155, Sandy Bridge, Intel ® P67, 4xDDR3
1 x Intel Core i5-2500 3.3GHz, 1MB/6MB, 95W, Socket 1155
1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingmax, 1333MHz
1 x HDD WD 750GB. 7502AAEX, SATA 3, 64MB, 7200 rpm, Caviar black
1 x XFX Core edition 80 550 w 5,277.15 KN MagazinRS
1 x Sapphire HD 6850 Toxic, 1GB GDDR5 256bit, dual link DVI + HDMI
$1725

You didn't mention if you were looking to overclock, so here is a configuration without any OC adjustments.

1 x Coolermaster Elite 310, MIDI, black-blue, no PSU
1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingmax, 1333MHz
1 x XFX Core edition 80 550 w 5,277.15 KN MagazinRS
1 x Gigabyte GA-PH67-UD3-B3, Socket 1155, CPU: Sandy Bridge, Intel ® H67
1 x Intel Core i5-2500 3.3GHz, 1MB/6MB, 95W, Socket 1155, box
1 x MSI GTX 560 TwinFrozr II OC 1024MB GDDR5 256 bit + 3 games
1 x HDD WD 640Gb, WD6400AAKS, SATA II, Buffer 16Mb, 3Gb/s, 7.200 rpm
$1710
The only difference here is a slightly worse hard drive, but you get a better graphics card.
http://www.newegg.com

GTX 570 running Dirt 2 versus HD 6970 running Dirt 2
GTX 570 playing Crysis Warhead versus HD 6970 playing Crysis Warhead

Given his resolution, the 570 actually outperforms the 6970. Plus, there are plenty of other games to consider, so just look at the bigger picture.

It’s a Sony USB drive, clocked at a 31MB/s transfer rate. But look, what can I even say to you? I actually went over to my neighbor's place to test it out on his machine—he’s got this cheap 250GB external hard drive, some off-brand thing from a random manufacturer he picked up for pennies. I tried streaming a movie directly from it, and honestly, the lag was going to be pretty noticeable. Now, sure, if you get a high-end drive, everything might glide along perfectly, but I’m talking about what *could* happen here. It all comes down to the hardware in practice. There's a real chance it’ll still stutter because his computer isn't exactly a powerhouse. Once I move it back to my own setup, it should play fine, but who knows?

If I'm speaking from my own experience, how is it even possible that I have absolutely no clue?

1) It won't break anything, but I’d much rather just use "safely remove hardware" or whatever the setting is called on my PC 🙂
2) I'm not saying that because of any specific reason, but back when I had a 4GB thumb drive, trying to watch movies directly off it was a total lag fest. I only ever had one 700MB movie on there at a time anyway. Just move the movies over one by one, watch them, and delete them once you're done

Well, look, maybe try finding one with USB 3.0 support—assuming your motherboard even supports that option, if not, then you're out of luck. I can't seem to track down a decent 2.5'' drive that actually hits 7200 rpm.


If you don't have USB 3.0 but you're dead set on a 2.5'' model, just grab this Seagate drive.

http://www.amazon.com/product_info.php?c...oducts_id=8437
I’d much rather go with this one—it’s got 1 TB and runs at 7,200 rpm.

P.S. this question belongs in the off-topic section.