shadowpilot14 said:I’ve got a decent chunk of cash sitting in bet365 and I want to get it out. I originally deposited using my Chase Inspire Visa card (USD account), but since I can't withdraw directly back to the card, my only option is a Bank Wire transfer straight to my checking account. The minimum withdrawal is $50, which isn't the issue—it's the fact that this is a significant amount of money. Since Google led me here (after searching through about 80 different pages), I'm reading all these horror stories about banks getting suspicious and calling you when you try to wire a large sum directly to your account.
So, what's the move? Should I link my card to Payoneer? I set up a Payoneer account and added the card, but then they charged me a random amount between $1 and $2.99 to verify it. My statement just shows the charge in local currency. How am I supposed to guess exactly how many dollars they took? I honestly don't get why bet365 doesn't support PayPal; that would be the perfect solution.
Just hang tight for five days. You'll see the exact Euro amount they pulled right there in the transaction description. That's how Payoneer works now... it used to be a pain where you had to call them to have them fix it manually.
If nothing shows up in the description after five days, hit up support. Look for "my card or my account is in a different currency." They'll probably ask you to upload some documents...
steelpilot29 said:Alright, now that I'm done acting like a smart guy, here's the real reason I'm logging on... ☕
Has anyone actually used one of those "betting brokers"? I’ve had a few recommended to me, but I’m still pretty skeptical. Their business models don't quite make sense to me—I'm just not sure how they stay sustainable long-term.
Here is a list of the big names.
What I really want to know, if anyone has insight, is how they handle parlays? Or is this stuff strictly useful for high-stakes moneyline and spreads?
Feel free to shoot me a DM if you have info.
The Asian connection. If I remember right, the minimum deposit back then was around $25k or $50k... Most Bankroll Managers start at $100k and up. If my memory serves, the withdrawal fee was about $45. You basically negotiate the odds directly with them... that's just an example if you're looking to drop a massive amount of cash.
So, I've seen what the stamp fees and attorney costs look like, $267. I’m wondering if there's any way to dodge paying them since I never actually got anything in the mail at my house. They’re claiming they're an ISP and sent everything via email, but I never saw it—it either went straight to spam or I accidentally deleted it. I'm torn on whether I should just pay up or if there's some kind of way to appeal these specific charges.
I picked up the notice today from the post office stating I have exactly 8 days to either file an appeal or settle the bill...
I’m going to try to break down the situation I'm in here. I ended up owing some money to a company $867. I knew I had to settle up, but I was banking on having things sorted by May of this year. Anyway, I logged into their portal and paid everything I owed, but then I saw this "Notice of Collection" pop up. It was an attorney's request for a notary public, someone like a local official in a city like Chicago . Feeling pretty lost, I called them, sent emails, the whole nine yards. Their response? They basically told me, "Look, you knew you owed this, and we sent the notification to your email automatically." The thing is, I never got that email! If I had seen it, I definitely would have taken action or worked out a payment plan before it escalated to a legal official.
So, on that day, I went ahead and paid those $867 without realizing the matter had already been handed over to the legal side. And just today, I got a notice from the USPS saying there's a letter waiting for me at the post office. I'm 99% sure that's the legal notice.
Here's my issue: I really don't want to be on the hook for these extra $267 fees (specifically the $208 attorney fees plus the $58 notary costs) . I don't feel right paying them because I never received any formal written notice—no certified mail, nothing—and nobody even gave me a call. They claim they emailed it, but I honestly haven't seen a single thing.
Is there any way to get out of paying these extra costs, or am I stuck with the bill? If there is a way, how should I go about disputing it? What exactly should I say in my appeal?
dustyfalcon8 said:When you open a student account, does that $333 overdraft limit kick in right away, or do you need to wait for a few deposits to hit the account first? I think at Chase, it’s available immediately...
Has anyone opened an account over at HSBC? I'm wondering the exact same thing.
To be honest, I was looking at that U2713HM yesterday. It seems like the U2711 actually holds up better in a few specific areas. Still, I think this newer one should be plenty for what I need.
Do you have any better suggestions outside of Dell?
The reason I went with this one is because I’m not a fan of the Thunderbolt Display having a glossy screen. The Dell U2711 has a nice anti-glare finish, whereas this newer U2713HM is a bit less matte.
I might actually end up grabbing two units, so I'm a bit torn on which direction to go. I’m currently running a MacBook Pro and I was thinking about hooking up either one or two external monitors to it. After weighing my options for a while, I've been leaning toward this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XJ8C8GZ
rapidskipper22 said:Hey everyone, Does anyone know which sportsbook accepts deposits via Paysafecard? Thanks
I'm not sure if things have changed lately, but right now, Paysafecard works at William Hill here in the US, but I'm not sure if the others have finally sorted their issues out.
If you buy a Paysafecard in other countries, you won't run into any trouble anywhere.
Kenneth Brooks2 said:The only one I haven't messed around with is 12bet, but their handball and volleyball selection looks pretty thin to me. Plus, 188bet and DraftKings have miserable limits on those sports—like, you'll hit a 48 Euro ceiling on volleyball at DraftKings. Sure, you can place multiple bets up to that limit, but the odds usually take a hit after a while. It’s nothing like soccer, where you can go all out without a single worry about getting capped.
Well, if that's the case, you already know the answer. You didn't even need to ask. ☕
Kenneth Brooks2 said:Can someone recommend an online sportsbook (not on my list) where I can comfortably place at least 100 Euro bets on handball and volleyball without getting limited to 5 Euro after two wins? Only suggest places you’ve actually used personally—I don't want any second-hand hearsay.
The accounts I already have: 188Bet, 10Bet, Bet365, BetMGM, FanDuel, BetMGM, DraftKings, BetMGM, DraftKings, FanDuel, BetMGM, DraftKings, FanDuel, DraftKings, Pinnacle, DraftKings, BetMGM, DraftKings, FanDuel, Victor Chandler, William Hill
DraftKings won't limit you, and while FanDuel doesn't have limits, it's an exchange, so they take a commission on your profit. 12bet and 188Bet are similar to DraftKings in terms of being Asian-based, so you shouldn't run into limit issues there either. Cheers
-I keep running into this issue where my posts just hang indefinitely -error 503 -It’s like, I’ll go to post something, hit submit, and then it just sits there spinning forever.
My internet connection is solid, so please don't try to blame my ISP or anything like that.
Is this a server-side thing? Are you guys dealing with some heavy traffic right now? 😕
Just asking out of curiosity, because it’s getting a little frustrating having to constantly hit refresh just to get the forum to load properly.
Forget all those five things they told you. The bottom line is, they can just wipe out your balance whenever they feel like it, without even giving you a heads-up.
I went through the exact same thing about a year or two ago. They just cut off my overdraft for no reason at all, and I had to wait an entire year before they’d even consider approving it again. Basically, I had to clear my balance completely just to get back to zero and stay out of their bad books. One day, maybe six months or a year later, I happened to stop by an ATM and noticed I suddenly had more credit available. That was when it clicked—they’d finally reinstated my overdraft. Bottom line, if you don't have a steady paycheck coming in, you might be looking at a long wait.
Dennis Turner62 said:Haha, I think I'm starting to get the hang of this.
If I were to always place a LAY bet at odds of 2.00 with a €10 profit target and just wait for someone else to accept it so I get MATCHED, is there any chance the odds could shift? Like, could Betfair change the odds or adjust my potential profit while I'm waiting? That’s what I’m curious about.
If you can get that 2.00 LAY matched right away, then you're all set. If you set your odds and then just sit tight, the price won't change—you'll be locked in at 2.00 when it happens.
However, if you're setting odds without realizing you could have laid at a lower price, Betfair might execute it as a lower odds LAY instead, which ends up costing you more money (that's called cross-matching).
To break it down: imagine you go back to Tip 1, hit submit, and wait those 5 to 8 seconds. If the Betfair system sees that you actually could have backed a higher odd because someone is looking to back Tip 2 at a certain price, the system will lay their bet for an XY amount and show you as having backed a higher odd.
If that doesn't make sense, I don't know what will.🙂
Even for the guy laying at that moment, it’s not working in his favor. It doesn't help the person who already placed the bet—meaning the money that's already sitting there as an offer. Either they miscalculated or they simply forgot to pull the bet. Is that any clearer now?
Look, Betfair doesn't just mess with the odds. People set the odds, along with various bots and whatnot. Betfair just introduced this cross-matching to make sure the little guys don't get ripped off.🙂
Dennis Turner62 said:I think I get it, but let me run this by you once more
I’m placing a LAY bet at odds of 2.0 with a $200 stake (meaning I'm willing to risk $200)
And if there isn't anyone on the other side placing a BACK bet at odds of 2.0 with a $200 stake, they'll just pair me up with someone betting at 1.5 odds for $100. In that scenario, his odds would jump to 2.0 while keeping the same stake, and my stake would drop from $200 down to $100. Am I following that correctly?
Hmm, so basically there's a chance that if I try to LAY for a $200 win, my actual stake gets cut down to $100
Actually, no, that's not quite how it works. 🙂 The main thing to remember is that Betfair will match you at the odds you set, or even better if they are lower. To put it simply: If you're looking to back at 1.5, but you didn't realize that laying the other side is essentially like backing at 1.58, Betfair will show you that you've been matched at 1.58. Basically, this setup actually works in the users' favor.