Sweet! The new mobile app for JPMorgan Chase just dropped! It’s available on Android now... I’m really digging it. They finally merged the m-token and added an ATM locator. Huge thumbs up from me. The load screen takes a bit longer than before, but it’s worth it... don't say I'm being too picky...
Hey everyone, I was wondering about the ATM setups at Goldman Sachs, Citigroup, and Wells Fargo. Specifically, do those last two even offer cash deposit machines here in the States? I'm also curious about extra features—like being able to buy prepaid phone credits—and how their interfaces stack up against the other big banks compared to...
Here are my own observations and some info regarding the ATMs used by the major banks:
Melissa Ortiz8 said:I'm not sure which provider you're using for supplemental insurance, so you should probably double-check. (I use Blue Cross, and I worked it out at my local Chase branch with no extra fees, and nothing gets charged to my account). Yeah, most of those other standing orders—well, direct debits—are from corporations, but the list isn't exactly huge, so it's worth looking into.
CMS, regarding the CDC thing... that’s just a standard direct debit, so there’s no cost involved. Honestly, I’ll just keep typing them in manually anyway. I have a template ready to go, so I really just have to verify the details each time...
Melissa Ortiz8 said:I didn't quite follow you there. I have about five or six different autopays set up—including one for my supplemental insurance—and they were all free. Plus, I still have five or six free transactions left under my Chase account limits.
According to the official fee schedule, every transaction made via an automatic transfer carries a $0.33 charge, while setting up the service itself costs $3.25 as a one-time fee. That doesn't apply to direct debits, of course, but those are usually reserved for specific businesses. Since I don't use all five of my monthly transactions every single month, it doesn't really make sense for me to opt for the package if it ends up costing more in the long run. For me, it isn't even about saving money... it's just the principle of not wanting to pay extra just because I have a standing order. But if you're certain that setting up the orders and the transactions themselves won't cost anything, then that's fine.
Melissa Ortiz8 said:It doesn't count toward the limit. You set up the autopay and your total number of free transactions stays exactly the same.
That’s a bummer. It makes more sense for me to just handle it manually every month. With autopay, I have to pay that fee regardless of whether it's my first transaction or my sixth...
I have a question and would really appreciate it if someone could help me out. I’m thinking about setting up a recurring transfer through my bank just to save myself some hassle... but I'm wondering if those transaction fees would count toward my monthly limit of free transfers provided by my banking assistant?
dustydriver202 said:I want to mail a package. It’s white and I sealed it up with some brown tape. Can I send it like that, or should I wrap it in brown paper with twine? If I need to, can I buy those supplies at the post office? And I assume they'll provide the labels for the sender and recipient info, right?
You can definitely send it as is. Just make sure you write the sender and recipient info clearly on the box itself... then once you're at the post office, you just fill out the shipping slip.
Hi everyone. I’ve run into a bit of a situation—I picked up a mousepad on eBay for about four bucks. Everything was fine until it hit the stage where HP had to handle the delivery.
I’ve dealt with them before. I’ve had to practically beg them to admit a package actually arrived. They’ll claim nothing was delivered without even notifying me, even though I’ve called and checked in personally both this week and last. My seller provided all the proof that everything was sent, yet they still insisted there was no record of it. It only "appeared" after I pushed back, showed them the tracking number, and proved it had been scanned into the local post office. Then there are those ridiculous rules where they won't accept a driver's license as valid ID, even though it works perfectly fine for everything else in the US, like voting or dealing with the police...
Anyway, here’s the deal. This Tuesday, I received a second notice saying I had to pick up my package by the end of the day. I never even got the first notice. Of course, I couldn't make it because I work in a different city and I'm not home every day. To make things worse, I picked up a completely different package at that same post office last Friday, and nobody mentioned this one was already waiting there. Honestly, I don't even care about the mousepad anymore. I don't understand why they didn't just leave it on my porch, especially since they've left much more expensive items at my door before. I really don't want to deal with the headache of arguing with the staff at the post office over such a small amount. My main concern is whether they're going to try to charge me a fee for their own mistake. My question is—do I need to do anything, or will they just send it back to the sender and call it a day?
Douglas Price88 said:I didn't want to start a whole new thread. My old mouse stopped working on my current PC(...) so I need a new one. Ideally for gaming, with a budget of up to $100 maybe $250, though I'd prefer staying in the $150-$250 range. Thanks. 🙂
PLEASE! Avoid Havit at all costs. It broke four times in a single year, and even though I got a new one every single time, my current computer won't even recognize this latest one...
Havit isn't terrible, per se, but you get what you pay for with their products. If you ask me, just go with Logitech, though there are plenty of other solid brands out there.
Check this out—there's actually a sale over at Instar for a gaming mouse right in your price range:
They're cheaper than the other places I've looked, and they offer free shipping to your door. That's a huge win since average shipping usually runs about $35-$17, which makes small orders barely worth it otherwise. I've bought from them online before and can vouch for them. Still, take a look at their other gaming mice and standard options too... see what fits your style best.
Hey everyone! I have a quick question. A few days ago, I got a notification from JPMorgan Chase about a free trial for their mobile banking app. Since I’m currently using an older online banking setup that doesn't include mobile access, I really don't want to end up paying an extra $3.25 every month for nothing. I already have a data plan on my phone, so I can just use the standard mobile website if I have to... it’s not optimized for small screens, but it gets the job done.
I’d love to give the actual app a shot if it’s truly free and doesn't have any hidden catches, but I’m worried about messing up my current banking setup. The notification says I'm eligible for free mobile banking with my existing account, but I want to be absolutely sure before I commit to anything. I don't want them to switch me over to a different tier where I suddenly find myself paying more per month without any real benefit. If they offered things like double the free transactions or other perks compared to what I have now, I'd jump on it immediately... but until now, the app itself wasn't enough of a reason to switch. Sure, being able to use mobile payments at places like CVS or 7-Eleven sounds nice, but it’s not a huge deal for me. Honestly, I don't see the point in paying an extra $40 per year just for the convenience of the app.
George Barnes3 said:I handled my own car insurance through a comparison site—went with Mount Everest. They told me the rates were lower specifically because it was an online purchase, so the prices on the comparison site are actually legit.
Thanks for the heads-up. I actually just called them to see if they were linked with Comparere, and the lady told me there's a cash discount—or something like that—that makes it the same price as booking online. On top of that, they include medical coverage for accidents for just a few extra bucks: http://www.allstate.com/safety/coverage...safety.aspx (which isn't part of the online offer) plus some other vouchers. Since their local branch is actually pretty close to me (didn't even realize that), I think I'll just head over in person to finalize everything.
Hey everyone! I’ve been looking into some car insurance lately and tried running some numbers through a comparison site. Most of the quotes I get end up being right around $833, except for Mount Rainier which is closer to $667. Is there some kind of catch here, or am I missing something? I also checked the individual calculators on the provider websites—Quincy comes out about the same as it did on the comparison site, but Mount Rainier shows roughly $850 in their quick estimate... though their tool doesn't ask for nearly as many details as the comparison site does. Any advice would be appreciated, and I could really use it soon. thanks
Hey, I'm actually looking for similar stuff too, so I figured I'd weigh in. I personally lean toward peripherals with wireless setups, so my take might differ from the post above:
Mouse and keyboard - In my book, Logitech is the way to go. I've been using their gear for a long time and they're solid. Back when I was a student, I picked up a budget MK120 set (K120 keyboard and M90 mouse) about two or three years ago. Honestly, I'm pretty happy with them, especially considering the price ($40maybe even a bit less today), but they're great for basic use.
If you want something a step up from standard keyboards, you have wired options like the K290 (for comfort) and the K310 (which is spill-resistant). Prices usually run between $15 and $117 depending on where you look, though the K290 is a little harder to find right now. Oh, if backlighting is a dealbreaker, you’ll probably have to shell out $30-$$200 for a model like the K740, just so you know.
As for mice, I grabbed an optical M105 because it was easy to find and Linux compatible. It replaced my old M90 from the MK120 set for general daily use. The M105 is a bit smaller, but it feels good in the hand, and you can find it in shops for around $10-$$30. If you want something slightly more premium, laser mice start around $33, like the LS1 model. There's also the M500 which is about twice the price at around $67, but it has extra buttons and a more ergonomic design. It's worth noting that the M105 and LS1 come in different colors if that matters to you, though laser models are getting a bit harder to track down lately.
Headphones - I'm actually hunting for these myself right now. I think I'm going to go with the Sony V55 model because they look durable and high-quality, and the sound should be decent. They might push your budget by about ten bucks, since you can find them for roughly $25-$$143. Anyway, here is a rough idea of what's out there—I did this search for myself, but it might help you see what brands are available in the US within that price range: Best Buy
If you don't mind a bit of extra plastic or a slightly loose build, there are plenty of choices with good sound quality. Then again, if you consider yourself an audiophile, some people on other forums will tell you that you need to spend well over $500, but I think that's overkill for my wallet... even if people claim the sound is significantly better.
