Posts by jadebison17

I’ve been a bit MIA from this thread lately (work projects have been absolutely crushing me!), but I finally managed to track down some dimensions online. What I really need now are the exact specs to plug into AutoCAD, so I can send them over to the shop for precision laser or waterjet cutting. I learned my lesson the hard way during my last project—I tried to DIY it with an angle grinder and ended up smashing two Cooler Master fans. Those things are pricey, man, and I am definitely not looking to play "break expensive hardware" ever again! 😁

Hope you guys get where I'm coming from! :O

I’ve got these existing schematics sitting here as paper sketches and .jpg files, which I'm trying to figure out how to bridge over into AutoCAD—you know how it goes... :O

I’ve been hunting everywhere, but honestly, I was totally lost on where to even post this topic... -,- "

I’ve run into a bit of a snag here.
I need to get some custom pieces cut—specifically 480 mm and 360 mm sizes—to house my water cooling radiators. What’s the best way to prep these dimensions so I can send them off to someone for laser or waterjet cutting?

I’ve been scouring the web for dimensions, but I can't seem to find any ready-to-go templates or schematics that you can just plug straight into a computer to automate the process... anyone have any tips? Thanks!

Hey everyone! It’s been a little while, but I’m back because I’ve run into a bit of a weird hiccup with my motherboard. So, here’s the deal: whenever I try to mess around with overclocking settings in the BIOS—specifically when I switch from "AUTO" over to "MANUAL"—the whole thing just completely freezes up on me. Like, total system lockdown. You can't click anything or change a single setting until you force a hard reset. And even then, you're in a race against time to switch everything back to "AUTO" before it hangs again. If you aren't fast enough, it just loops right back into that frozen state. The funny thing is, if I leave everything on "AUTO," it works perfectly fine! Everything feels totally stable. Up until now, I’ve just been tweaking minor stuff like VT settings and other little things, but this headache only kicks in the second I try to push the OC.
Any bright ideas on what might be causing this? Does anyone have a clue or some advice to help me get past this wall?

Here’s the breakdown of my current rig: Intel Pentium G3258, ASUS ROG Maximus VI Formula, 4x4 GB Kingston Beast 2400 MHz, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970, Corsair RM650x, and a Cooler Master MasterLiquid 240 Pro... Before I upgraded to this, I was running an i5-4590 non-K, so I never really had any reason to dive into overclocking, which is why I'm hitting this roadblock for the first time now. 😵 🤦 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂

He sold it for $167 the very same day. -,- Seriously, now this guy is trying to tell me that if I had just bought it when he did, I could have snagged an $250 for basically nothing... but honestly, whatever. It is what it is. I'm sticking with my 4th gen
anyway!

Hey, which specific laptop model are you rocking?

Robert Rodriguez2 said:Just head down to the local hardware store, grab some tiny washers, and boom... you're done!

Oh, bless your heart!! I honestly can't for the life of me remember what they're called... was it "washers"? Hahaha!😵😵😵😵😵😵

frozenridge2 said:I don't have that exact case at my place, but I've got one that's pretty close (it's black) though mine is a bit wider and the power supply sits right up at the top. Plus, it's only got one vent for a bottom radiator... It actually features two radiators on a side panel that pops off with a key!

So you're saying it's basically the same thing, just repainted black, with the front ironwork sprayed white, some LEDs tossed in there, and the door taken off just to get a good shot for the photo? 😁😁

Robert Rodriguez2 said:So what makes the 6700K actually better than the 6700? Honestly, they run at the same clock speed! The only real perk of getting a "K" model is that you can overclock it, but if you aren't planning on messing with settings like that, why even bother? You don't need the extra cost of the K version at all.

And honestly, looking at some of the builds I've seen lately, people just aren't making sense when they put parts together. It’s like they’re picking components that just don't vibe together at all.

The Intel Core i7-6700 hits 3.4 GHz base and bumps up to 4.0 GHz Turbo.
But the Intel Core i7-6700K starts at 4.0 GHz, goes up to 4.20 GHz Turbo, and—here's the kicker—it has an unlocked multiplier.

Now, don't get me wrong, I might not be a master at building PCs, but pairing an AMD processor with an Intel motherboard? That's just asking for trouble!👍

frozenridge2 said:Look, it’s not that I haven't messed with overclocking before. It's just that my bank account wasn't exactly cooperating back then, you know? Even though I could probably start dabbling in it again now if I wanted to.

Is this MSI Z170M motherboard actually a good match for the Intel Core i7-6700K processor mentioned above?
https://bestbuy.com/webshop/product/...mortar/1274119

I still love gaming, but life happens—years pass, jobs get busy—so my PC isn't really my primary gaming rig anymore. I really need to dive into tinkering with virtual machines and running a whole bunch of different operating systems on them. Plus, there's a ton of other software for cloud stuff, everything from Windows remote desktop and PuTTY to TeamViewer. I'll probably experiment with video streaming too, since that sounds like a blast. In my mind, having 16 GB of RAM and a beefy processor is pretty much a non-negotiable requirement here. Since I've been a bit out of the loop lately, I'm not entirely sure what the current "meta" is, but I figure grabbing the latest architecture is the way to go so I can just relax and not worry about my setup for at least the next 5+ years...

I'm typing this to you on an AMD Turion 64 X2 that I've pushed from 1.9 GHz up to 2.35 GHz, paired with 4 GB of RAM and a 120 GB SSD. This laptop is a relic from 2007! Even today, I'm out here fixing people's computers remotely via TeamViewer and using Kali Linux in a virtual machine to help the neighbors crack passwords. I also have an Intel Core i7-950 and an Intel Core i7-4770K in my arsenal. I actually need to bump that Intel Core i7-950 up to 3.7 GHz just to handle modern games on Ultra settings, whereas I can keep the Intel Core i7-4770K on stock speeds for at least another 4 or 5 years and still run just about anything... let alone that Intel Core i7-6700K... 😁 So honestly, why is everyone stressing out so much, folks? 😁

Guys, I need some serious backup here! I’m currently deep in the middle of a total DIY, "backyard engineer" style PC Modding project, and I’ve hit a bit of a wall. How on earth can I attach a glass panel to my case so it swings open just like a door? Honestly, my brain is totally stalling out on this one—I can't seem to find a logical way to make it work. -,-"

Come on, throw some ideas my way! Once I get this sorted, I’ll definitely post some photos and walk you all through how I put the whole thing together! 😁

wiredotter14 said:Honestly, he’d be better off just going with liquid cooling 😵
because you could probably cool a 65W chip by just smearing some Nestlé ice cream over the processor and blowing on it!
Look, I know what I'm talking about—at work, I deal with an Intel Core i5-2400 that pulls 95W at full load, and even then, the stock cooler barely breaks a sweat, and that chip is four generations old now. I see guys running 6 or 8-core AMD setups on LC-CC-95 at 4 GHz all the time.

Pairing a 6700K with a board that won't let you overclock? That’s just not worth it. It makes way more sense to grab an Intel Haswell i7 (either the K or non-K version) like our buddy suggested here.

Yeah, you're right, my bad! 😉 I can't overclock in the BIOS, but for this price point, the motherboard is actually fantastic. When you look at the gap between an Intel Core i7-6700 and the 6700K, the "K" series is a total beast by comparison. In maybe 7 or 10 years, just grab a new motherboard and go wild with the overclocking! 😉

With the case he's currently using, I actually had to mount three 80mm fans up front, two 120mm fans in the back, plus use that extra 120mm fan from the power supply just to keep a temperamental Intel Core i7-950 cool during Turbo Boost along with the GPU... let alone if I had tried to overclock it! 😁 Even with a Q6600, I managed to keep things at 52 degrees... using basically the same parts, just different motherboard and CPU...

Trust me, I know my stuff... here are a few shots for ya! :P







Tested, proven, and fully modded... 😉

wiredotter14 said:Why spend $250$100 on a cooler for a 65W processor that runs perfectly fine on the stock one? Honestly, the LC-CC-95 is top-tier, but even then, you only need it if you're chasing absolute silence (the LC95 won't even break a sweat on an i5)

I’ve gotta ask—is this some kind of tech superstition or what?

An SSD with 480GB from Trion, but only 8GB of RAM?

- Both setups actually have 16 GB of RAM (2x 2x4 GB = 4x4 GB)
Regarding the cooler, the case airflow is pretty terrible—honestly, a total disaster. In my book, it's much better to grab an EVO 212 than to stick with the stock heatsink.

_________________________

If you aren't planning on buying a dedicated graphics card, based on everything you guys just laid out, I would definitely suggest pivoting to these better components:

1. Intel Core i7-6700K - $0.95
2. ID-Cooling SE-214X - $83
3. MSI B150M MORTAR - $223
4. Kingston HyperX Fury 240GB - $223
5. HyperX Savage DDR4 16GB 2400MHz CL12 DIMM (Kit of 2) - $248
6. Western Digital 2TB SATA II 7200RPM 64MB - $233

((You can always upgrade with another 16 GB of RAM later if you need to, and that i7 6700K is going to hold up for at least 7-10 years on basically any build. I personally use an SSD and I am absolutely loving it, plus that motherboard looks solid for both gaming and heavy workloads. If I were in your shoes, I'd do a little more Googling on parts, especially when you're dropping this much cash. That cooler should easily handle the i7 even when it's hitting turbo boost (4.4 GHz) without breaking a sweat, and don't forget, the i7 6700k has great integrated graphics 😉 ))- totaling $2.00

Prices are pulled from Newegg; if you want to double-check, you'll find similar pricing over at Best Buy

frozenridge2 said:I’d probably pick up another monitor down the road, but that’s a whole different conversation... you know how it is when you fall in love with a setup! Honestly, since this rig is going to double as my workstation for sysadmin tasks and programming, having two or even three monitors would be a total game-changer.

That means I'll have a ton of stuff running in the background—everything from cloud services to MySQL, various IDEs, and virtual machines (like VMware, VirtualBox, etc.).
Do you guys think it would be a smart move to go with 16 GB of RAM and a beefier processor in this scenario?
I’ll most likely be playing some Overwatch by Blizzard too, though that might not be super demanding...

$1.75 ($6,000) and that already includes the power supply and the case? 😁 (I actually own that case, and honestly, it's nothing to write home about... 😁 )

1. Intel Core i5-6500 - $550
2. MSI B150M Bazooka - $221
3. (2x) Kingston HyperX Fury 2x4, 2133 MHz - $221
4. ASUS TURBO-GTX960-OC-4GD5 - $613
5. Trion 150 Series 480GB - $327
6. ID-Cooling SE-214X - $82

(Newegg - $2.00)

Or maybe

1. SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB SSD - $195
2. MSI B150M Bazooka - $233
3. Corsair 2x8GB DDR4 2133 C13 - $228
4. COOLERMASTER Hyper 212 EVO - $100
5. Intel Core i5-6402P - $522
6. GIGABYTE NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960 GAMING GDDR5 4GB/128bit - $648

(Rolling Stone - $2.00)

Timothy Kim60 said:I wouldn't count on it. Honestly, that other user was onto something regarding how quickly they die out. I heard about someone else—maybe a buddy of mine too—who had one kick the bucket after just a few months. Plus, when you start digging through those depressing threads with 20+ angry comments on Newegg... yeah, it’s a bad look. It might not be a massive statistical sample, but for such a small group, it’s a pretty nasty trend. 😁
I'm not totally sure if the same goes for the 120GB models, though. There are plenty of other budget SSDs out there, like the Adata SP550 or various SanDisk drives where some people even get a solid 5-year warranty.

Oh, really? Sure, they're dirt cheap and have "great" performance. Personally, I've never touched one. In my book, based on what I've actually used, I'd stick to a Corsair Vengeance or maybe a Samsung 850 EVO.

1. Intel i3 6100 – $312
2. Gigabyte GA-H110M-DS2 – $145
3. Kingston DDR3 HyperX Fury 8 GB 1600 MHz – $97
4. CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO – $95
5. EVGA GeForce GTX 950 XTREME – $425
6. EVGA 550W Power Supply – $146
7. Patriot 120 GB BLAST – $120
8. Zalman Z1 Neo – $97
9. Shipping – $21
Total – $1458 (Micro Center)

If you ask me, this setup would be totally solid for gaming! :P I might even stretch my budget by about $50 just to grab an i3 6300 instead... 😁

Hey everyone! I’m looking to pick your brains and get some expert advice on a few different power supplies I've been eyeing:

1. EVGA 430 - ATX, 80+ Bronze (120 mm)
2. Corsair VS550 - ATX, 80+ White (120 mm)
3. Corsair CX430 - ATX, 80+ Bronze (120 mm)
4. XFX Core 600 - ATX, 80+ Bronze (120 mm)
5. Thermaltake Smart SE 530, ATX, 87+ Modular (140 mm)

Prices are hovering somewhere between $4 and $150. What I really need is a rock-solid unit—something reliable enough that I can play around with overclocking whenever the mood strikes, and more importantly, something that can handle my system running 24/7 without me constantly worrying about a sudden crash...

Hey everyone! I could really use some advice on picking out a new power supply. I’ve got about $233 set aside for this, and I want to make sure I grab something high-quality since I’m planning to push my processor (Maximus VI Hero + G3258) through some serious overclocking. I don't have a dedicated graphics card yet, so a 500 W unit should be plenty of juice for now.

Larry Ortiz5 said:Is it just a simple issue with the graphics card? 🤷

Actually, nope! Turns out there was a burnt SATA3 port on the board 😁 man, you have no idea how much I panicked for a second there 😁 😁 😁 😁

Alright folks, I need some backup here! I figured I’d post this right under our previous chat about the R9 280x rather than starting a whole new thread...

So, here’s the deal: I popped this card into my MSI X58 Pro-E, fired up Far Cry 3 on Ultra at 900p, and everything was smooth sailing for about two hours. I had already wiped the Nvidia drivers and went through the whole process of installing the AMD drivers via the DVD ROM...

But then, just as I headed back to my desktop, this popped up out of nowhere:


I totally panicked! I honestly thought I’d caught a nasty virus. I had literally just installed Far Cry 4 and was right in the middle of grinding away when this hit me the second I hit PAUSE. -,-" I went full scorched-earth mode—shut the PC down immediately, wiped the hard drive, and decided to start from scratch. I tried reinstalling Windows 7, but halfway through the install, the same thing happened again! Eventually, I managed to get Windows 7 running, and even moved over to Windows 10 on a different hard drive, but the issue follows me everywhere. To make matters weirder, when I check Speccy Pro, the temperatures aren't even crossing 30°C... so, what on earth could be going on??