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Posts by Andrew Miller102

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Best player for 720p HDTV x264 files? in Software ·
Alex Hill86 said:GOM Player plays everything.

That software is basically useless when you actually care about image quality or video fidelity; it’s nothing more than a Ford in the world of video players, and frankly, BS Player tells a very similar story.🙂 If you want my honest opinion, just forget it exists because moving on is the only logical solution, especially since GOM Player doesn't even bother to utilize DirectX Video Acceleration or GPU acceleration properly.🙂

Any regular user here should just grab PotPlayer, and there's no need to worry about a full installation since the portable version is right here. I've included a package below containing detailed instructions in English covering all its essential features. You won't find any unnecessary codec packs or extra nonsense like the K-Lite Codec Pack cluttering things up; this program handles any video format you throw at it without any hassle.☕

For those who aren't aware, this program is the successor to the well-known KMPlayer, and while it might look almost identical to KMPlayer at first glance, PotPlayer has been significantly refined and improved under the hood. I've provided links for both the 32-bit and 64-bit versions for anyone interested in testing it out, and I can say with confidence that you won't regret it, as it offers several highly useful options and capabilities that other players simply lack.😁 😉

http://www.box.com/s/6s6x1eb10qxxxqr4v31q

http://www.box.com/s/nedtdrnp3qcpoqij0hgd

image
How to recover data from an external hard drive? in Computer Peripherals ·
Amanda Barnes7 said:Alright, great, I've downloaded the Microsoft version 6.5—I tried the latest one already, but it can only salvage about 1 GB, so this should be much better...
I'll let you know how it goes...
One more thing, once I move everything over to the other drive, am I going to need to format that external one? Or is there some other issue with it that I'm just not catching, because I'm a bit lost here... 😢

Give formatting a shot after you successfully migrate the data, though honestly, it’s hard to say exactly why this happened from over here. It could easily be bad sectors on the drive, or perhaps the electronics inside the enclosure—like the USB-to-SATA controller—are acting up, which happens quite often. When that occurs, people run into issues like this, or they find themselves dealing with Windows suddenly demanding a partition or disk format out of nowhere.🤷☕
How to recover data from an external hard drive? in Computer Peripherals ·
Amanda Barnes7 said:I have an external drive with about 233 GB on it, but whenever I try to access it, I get this error:
G:/ is not available. The file or directory is corrupted and unreadable. 😢
Is there any way I can save the data currently on the disk?

Look, it’s certainly possible, though you never really know until you dig in. Your first move should be to run a scan using that Microsoft program and the specific module within it I mentioned earlier. I’ve included some links below with instructions and everything else you might need, so just follow those steps, see what happens, and let me know how it goes.😉☕
Monitor Recommendations in Computer Peripherals ·
Benjamin King2 said:If I were in your shoes, this is the one I’d recommend.

Asus's entire ML series is top-tier, especially considering you can pick one up without breaking the bank like you would with the high-end Samsung or LG models. That 2 ms response time isn't just some marketing gimmick either; the screen is genuinely fast, and I haven't run into a single issue while gaming. It’s also a newer iteration, which is a plus since those older versions lacked an HDMI port entirely. If you try to go the cheap route, you're usually just stuck buying some low-quality junk from HP or AOC.

You should probably skip Samsung entirely right out of the gate, mostly because of their lackluster warranty coverage. You’re basically asking to get slapped in the face with nothing more than a two-year guarantee.😂😁

That Asus 21.5 is decent enough, I suppose, but when you hold it up against this 23" LG down here, it really doesn't feel like the smartest way to spend your money. Since both monitors are running on TN LCD panels and offer the exact same selection of ports, you're essentially paying for more screen real estate with the LG. It’s a bit larger and objectively the better value for the price, that much is certain.😁🍿

I’ve been looking over the specs for this monitor, and honestly, it’s exactly what you need if you aren't trying to break the bank just to get a decent display on your desk. It’s a straightforward, no-frills setup that gets the job done without any unnecessary bells or whistles getting in the way. If you're just looking for something reliable for everyday work or casual browsing, this hits all the right marks.

Check out the specs on this LG E2351VR-BN monitor over at their official site.

Here is my latest recommendation for the AOC 23. I've always found that when you're looking at an IPS LCD panel, you're really making a choice about color accuracy and viewing angles rather than just raw speed. It’s one of those fundamental trade-offs that most people overlook until they see a cheap TN panel side-by-side with a decent display. It all comes down to the IPS LCD panel; that's really what defines a decent monitor. Even if you happen to pick up a lower-end model, the warranty should cover any major issues just like it does with anything else you buy, which is pretty standard. $383 No worries at all.😁☕

The specs on this particular monitor look solid enough for most standard setups, though I find myself wondering if anyone actually needs this level of precision for casual use. It’s a decent piece of hardware, provided you aren't looking for something that pushes the absolute bleeding edge of display technology. If you just need a reliable screen that gets the job done without any unnecessary fuss, this fits the bill quite nicely.

I’ve been looking over the specifications for this AOC 23 model, and honestly, it feels like a bit of a relic from a different era of hardware. It’s one of those monitors that you find sitting in the corner of a dusty office cubicle at a mid-sized firm in Ohio, just waiting to be recycled. Looking at the technical breakdown, there isn't much here to get excited about if you're expecting anything remotely modern. It does exactly what it says on the tin, which is to say, it displays an image, but don't expect any bells or whistles. It’s plain, functional, and entirely unremarkable.

http://translate.google.com/translat...26prmd%3Dimvns

I've been watching this video, and it really highlights how much the landscape of display technology has shifted over the years. It’s one of those pieces that forces you to look at everything we take for granted today—like color accuracy and refresh rates—through a much more critical lens. There is a certain level of nuance in how panels have evolved that most casual users completely overlook, but once you see it laid out like this, it becomes impossible to ignore.
Any thoughts on this monitor? in Computer Peripherals ·
stormyhound29 said:I was originally aiming for the $400 top tier, but obviously, I’d prefer to save some cash if possible; from what I've gathered through various YouTube clips, the picture quality on that one is actually quite impressive for gaming, though people keep mentioning issues with color bending—which I'm not entirely sure about—and some trailing, which I assume is just ghosting.

If you can snag the $400 or something even more budget-friendly, then honestly, just go with that Dell 23 model and call it a day. You really won't find a better deal for a 23-inch screen that stays under $350. At that point, it's purely your call whether you want the cheaper Dell or to spring for the slightly pricier Samsung model.😁😉
Any thoughts on this monitor? in Computer Peripherals ·
stormyhound29 said:Hey everyone, I'm planning on picking up a new monitor soon, and while my first thought was to grab a Dell UltraSharp Monitor which goes for about $415, I stumbled upon a Samsung Monitor priced at roughly $353, so now I'm wondering which one actually makes more sense to buy since there isn't much online coverage for them. I did see a YouTube video featuring the Samsung Monitor with some FIFA 2012 gameplay where the image looked pretty great, plus it’s quite budget-friendly. Looking at reviews for the Dell 23, they mention trailing issues and color banding as downsides, though they do praise the good picture quality.

Both the Dell and the Samsung models utilize a TN LCD panel, and honestly, both look sharp enough that you won't make a massive mistake regardless of which way you lean, though the Dell will certainly be easier on your wallet.😉

The real deciding factor here is just how many US Dollars you're willing to part with, and if you had mentioned your actual budget right off the bat, we could have just picked the best option for your specific price range.😁 😉
Looking for a new LCD monitor - any recommendations? in Computer Peripherals ·
Ryan Walker82 said:So, I've got a few options on the table and I'm having a hard time deciding which way to go. I'm looking at that Dell UltraSharp, though I'm hesitating because a buddy of mine just picked up a Samsung and it died on him pretty quickly. I actually ran it by another friend, and he gave me the same advice—don't just jump blindly into a Samsung.
I was looking at this Acer monitor online earlier, and honestly, I can't help but think we should probably just stick to the Dell UltraSharp models if we want anything resembling actual reliability. It’s one of those things where you see a decent price tag and start wondering if the savings are worth the inevitable headache, but in my experience, they rarely are. If you're looking for something that won't make you regret your purchase in six months, you might be better off browsing the Samsung IPS displays instead. There's a certain level of consistency you get with the big names that budget brands just can't quite replicate, no matter how much they polish their marketing.
or I’ve been looking into this Philips monitor setup, and honestly, it feels like we're overcomplicating things. People tend to get caught up in the minutiae of panel types and specific model numbers, but at the end of the day, you just want a screen that does its job without making you squint. It’s one of those situations where the specs look impressive on paper, yet the actual user experience often falls short of the hype. If you're hunting for something reliable, don't get distracted by the flashy marketing; just find a solid display from a brand like Dell and call it a day.
Well, here we go again. I’ve been looking over the specs for this Philips monitor, and honestly, it feels like a bit of a relic from a different era of hardware. It’s one of those displays that might have held its own back in the day, but trying to fit it into a modern setup feels like a chore. If you're hunting for something that actually keeps up with today's standards, you might want to look elsewhere.

Anyone got some actual advice for me?
And how much does contrast actually matter when I'm sitting there staring at the screen?

Have you heard the news that monitors from every single brand—even those overpriced flagship models—are starting to fail?🤷 It seems like you don't actually understand how a warranty works, or maybe you just think it's there for decoration. If that were the case, nobody would bother buying an Apple or even a Samsung in the first place, just because some guy somewhere claimed his unit broke. Your logic is fundamentally flawed. Just grab that Samsung IPS model and call it a day; you won't regret it. Every single one of those monitors in your links uses a basic TN panel, and frankly, that's all they are.😁😉
Need help picking out some speakers... in Computer Peripherals ·
Kyle Barrett2 said:Can anyone suggest some 2.1 or 2.0 speakers for under $83...
Ideally, they should be pretty powerful and offer solid sound quality...

Regarding 2.0 setups, those Logitech Z series speakers are exactly what you're looking for, as they represent the best value for that kind of money without much real competition here in the States; you basically just pay the price and walk out with decent 2.0 speakers if that's what you need.😁

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzVucJ18-UA

When it comes to 2.1 systems and my personal recommendation, I'd still point toward the Logitech Z series with the wooden satellite speakers, since the MDF build slightly exceeds the $83 but it's definitely worth it if you're set on going 2.1.☕
Looking for a new LCD monitor - any recommendations? in Computer Peripherals ·
Ryan Walker82 said:Yeah, I looked at that one too, but if spending an extra $40 or so gets me something significantly better, then I think it’s worth it.
What's the issue with Dell? I don't have any personal experience with them; I just know what I've read online, and... they seem fine enough.

There isn't anything inherently wrong with Dell, really; you just need to understand the price-to-performance ratio so you know exactly what you're getting for your money, and then there shouldn't be any issues. If you check out those models I mentioned earlier, it looks like the Dell models are currently sold out everywhere. Generally speaking, if you're willing to shell out an extra $100, you have two Samsung IPS models to choose from, and since this particular Dell UltraSharp model has a much cleaner and more attractive design, it usually holds the edge in a situation like this.😁😉
16:9 vs 16:10 aspect ratio? in Computer Peripherals ·
darkowl72 said:Well, there isn't much of a selection when it comes to the 16:10 aspect ratio, and I'm honestly not even sure if Full HD even works properly in that format...

It’s hardly anyone's fault that the selection of 16:10 monitors here in the States is so limited, which leads retailers to just push 16:9 displays at 1920x1080 resolution like they're some kind of mindless drones.😁 Nothing really fits quite right in this market anyway, so what’s the big deal regarding the aspect ratio? For instance, a 24-inch monitor running at 1920x1200 is perfectly fine, and frankly, I don't care what the resolution is as long as it isn't one of those forced, standardized 1920x1080 setups.☕

A lot of people find 16:9 monitors frustrating, and I'm certainly one of them, mostly because the vertical space feels far too cramped; an LCD shouldn't be designed solely for binge-watching movies or series.😁 Besides, I haven't heard of anyone dropping dead over their first plum just because they watched a movie in Full HD on a 16:10 monitor, so I doubt it's going to be an issue.😉🍿
Burning ISO and IMG files in Software ·
placidwolf7 said:So I just select the option to burn the IMG/ISO file and I'm good to go.

If you watch the video below, you'll see how an ISO file gets burned onto a DVD-R; when I'm using ImgBurn, I usually make sure the burning speed doesn't exceed 8X, especially when I'm burning Windows installers or other critical data to a DVD, and it works without any issues.😁😉

http://tinypic.com/m/dlhwf8/2
Best monitor under $220? in Computer Peripherals ·
darkowl72 said:I actually find this one pretty appealing; it’s a newer LED model with a sharp design, it includes a "Zero Bright Pixel Warranty"—meaning if you catch even a single dead pixel, they just swap it out—and the price point is reasonable, plus the reviews are decent:


It really stands out as the best value for the money, especially when you see how good it looks, and there isn't much to complain about other than one little detail: Apple has dropped their warranty from three years down to two, whereas brands like Sony or ViewSonic still offer a full three-year coverage.😁☕
GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
stormywolf39 said:I’d honestly rather go for something like a 5750, 6750, or even a GTS 450 since they aren't much more expensive and offer a significant jump in performance.

I am sticking strictly to the $600 budget he mentioned$233 and I'm looking for the best possible value within that limit, because that's really the whole point here.😁 If you happen to stumble upon a 5750 or a GTS 450 with 1GB or 512MB of DDR5 for under $233 let me know, though you could check Best Buy, but I doubt you'll find anything there. The only other thing that actually fits this price range is the model linked below, which comes with 512MB of DDR5 memory, but it remains a solid choice; the cooler is decent enough, though that VTX 3D model mentioned earlier definitely has a superior and more efficient cooling setup.😁☕

http://www.bestbuy.com/products/detail...20-x16-h/44970
GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
Brenda Chavez34 said:Can someone recommend a solid graphics card for around $600?$233 I'm hoping it can handle the latest titles reasonably well.

Looking at the options, this specific model strikes me as the smartest play for that budget; it’s essentially just another branding for the well-known TUL outfit, or what most people recognize as Powercolor. You're getting 1GB of DDR5 memory here, and the cooling solution is genuinely impressive, staying remarkably quiet, which isn't something you see often with heatsinks of this size.😁☕

Since the heatsink features such a dense fin layout, if the stock fan ever decides to quit on you, the repair is trivial because you just unscrew the plastic shroud holding the fan in place, and you can easily mount a standard 9cm fan directly into the fins, plug it into a Molex connector, and you're back in business without any real hassle.🙂🍿

http://www.kitguru.net/components/gr...670-review/19/
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Benjamin King2 said:Not if he actually cares about his PC... man, what a total piece of junk. 🤣

+3.3V - 30A
+5V - 25A
+12V - 29A

That adds up to 572W, yet it pulls over a kilowatt from the wall just to deliver half a kilo... plus it weighs barely 2kg, which feels more like it was built out of cardboard than anything else, much like those cheap disposable shoes you see everywhere. 😂


Sure, I'll admit that you can grab a 1500W power supply for $120 these days,😁 so go ahead and make your choice, it’s no big deal—except if they had labeled that 1500W rating "For Extreme Dumbass," then we could finally call it an honest product. 😁

Still, that Ritmo model seems almost convincing by comparison,🙂 let me try to remember why exactly—if my memory serves me right—😢 compared to this tiny little Seasonic X-400 Fanless, which is just pathetic and underwhelming, not to mention the sheer audacity of Seasonic asking $120 for such a small-time unit. 😢🙂👋

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817151097
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Benjamin King2 said:"New" EVGA 450 W1 or actually a new EVGA 450 W1? You've got yourself an upgraded version here. 😁

I am aware it is a newer revision, but it still doesn't inspire much confidence; after all, that model represents the absolute bottom of the Corsair power supply lineup, which really says everything you need to know. In contrast, that EVGA GeForce model isn't exactly the worst thing EVGA offers, since there are plenty of weaker 500W units below it that would have likely spontaneously combusted during a test like this.😁

It is also quite strange that the EVGA GeForce 450 W1 didn't buckle and fail during that test, especially considering the 12V rail is rated at 230W, which suggests something is seriously off regarding the actual power delivery.😂😵

So, you have an Intel Core i7 with a stock TDP of 130W, then you overclock it just as much as they did by bumping the voltage, pair that with an HD 4870x2, boot up Prime, and finally run 3DMark, yet the power supply keeps chugging along without shutting down—the only reason the thread is being closed is for housekeeping, because the results themselves are baffling enough.🙏

I am genuinely curious how it would perform in that exact same scenario; specifically, if we used the "improved" EVGA 450 W1 in that identical configuration during the same test, I wonder if it would even manage to boot the system, or if the PC would just instantly die the moment you looked at it wrong.🙂😵
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Benjamin King2 said:What kind of stripped-down version are we even talking about?

I’m talking specifically when you compare it to that old Corsair CX 400 W which actually had a Seasonic unit inside; compared to that, this new EVGA 450 W1 has been gutted quite thoroughly, as they’ve clearly stripped away all the quality without hesitation.😁

What makes it even more amusing is how people still fall for it today, operating under the delusion that this EVGA 450 W1 is identical to the old CX 400 model just because it carries the Corsair name. A brand name is just a label, and once you look under the hood, you realize it's something else entirely—basically a hollowed-out shell of what it used to be, if you catch my drift.😂🙂
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Benjamin King2 said:I tossed an EVGA 450 W1 into a bucket I was putting together last week along with an Intel Core i3 and an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460, both moderately Overclockers (Intel at 3.5 GHz, NVIDIA at 825 MHz), and ran them through all sorts of stress tests; the voltages stayed steady, there wasn't any noticeable over or undervolting, and everything held up perfectly during both testing and actual gaming. My budget was pretty tight, so I was choosing between that Corsair unit, an EVGA model, or some other semi-crap option...

If I had to pick something for someone else or suggest a specific buy between that weirdly stripped-down Corsair unit and something else, I’d go with this EVGA model from the GeForce series without hesitation because even though it costs a bit more, it’s definitely worth it, especially since it features a 14cm cooling fan that stays incredibly quiet.😁

When you consider the hardware involved, specifically looking at this test performed by a guy on another forum who was clearly trying to push that power supply to its breaking point—and he certainly isn't lying—it becomes crystal clear that the EVGA GeForce 450 W1 model is worth every penny.😁🍿

http://forum.pcekspert.com/showpost....6&postcount=51
Microsoft in Software ·
Frank Martinez16 said:Well, didn't he specifically ask about the CD cover?

I wouldn't rule it out, though anything is possible when someone struggles with the language,😁 which usually leads to them misassembling their thoughts and writing something completely different from what they actually intended.🙂

"Burning" is just their way of describing the process of recording data onto a disc, whether you call it burning or writing, so I suppose it's all a matter of semantics.🙂🍿
Microsoft in Software ·
Drew Sanchez82 said:What exactly do you mean by "burning" to a CD?
You just head over to the Data transfer section and drag in whatever files you want to save, since the Data category covers everything from photos and videos to music and various applications...
But if you want things to be easy, Nero is the way to go.

Sure, there's plenty of wisdom in burning stuff to a disc, but using Microsoft is a hassle when you could just use Nero, considering how much bloatware is packed into those massive, unnecessary programs.😁 🍿



Nero Burning ROM, along with the rest of that suite, is still available as far as I can tell; they’ve just made the whole registration and license key process unnecessarily complicated, which people have already discussed in the thread below, or you can just grab the standalone software.☕

I’ve actually put a link at the bottom of the page, so if you scroll down, you can find the free keys to bypass that annoying registration mess, and anyone who needs them can just download and use the programs.😁 ☕

During the installation, it tries to push my Google toolbar on you, which is completely useless, and it does this for every single program in the bundle, so just make sure to uncheck those boxes if you're the type of person who usually installs everything quickly without paying attention.☕

http://www.softpedia.com/get/CD-DVD-...dio-Free.shtml

http://www.americanforums.com/showthread.php?t=604351