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Posts by Andrew Miller102

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Which monitor should I get? in Computer Peripherals ·
Joshua Garcia3 said:I was just making a comparison against that range of Dell TN monitors, and obviously an IPS panel would be a step up—something like the Dell P2214H—but that requires spending significantly more money.
The only IPS options under $333 are the HP I2269VWM, the Dell 227 E4QSD, and the Dell 227E4QSD/00.

There isn't much sense in throwing extra cash at the table,😁 especially when it comes to budget IPS monitors, because they all come with their own set of compromises since they’re essentially just 6-bit IPS panels. There is a very logical reason why they are priced so low; any decent 8-bit IPS monitor is going to run you north of $667, so we aren't even talking about the same category of product.

Take a look at this HP model down here; notice the price is only $250 and it isn't a TN panel either, but rather a VA or AMVA matrix—short and simple, it's another massive best buy.😉

http://us.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/...t/UM.WV6AA.A01
Which monitor should I get? in Computer Peripherals ·
wanderingpanther68 said:Just picked it up a moment ago.

If you're looking into the Dell E2214H, you’ll find it’s a pretty straightforward piece of hardware that doesn't try to be anything more than what it is. It serves its purpose without any unnecessary flair, which is exactly how most people want their office gear to function. It’s a reliable, no-nonsense monitor for anyone who just needs to get through a workday without dealing with extra complications.

I’m pretty happy with mine... the picture quality is top-tier. ☕

What am I even supposed to say to you right now?😁 You definitely didn't get the best bang for your buck there, and the picture quality isn't exactly top-tier since you're stuck with a classic TN panel. I wasn't just throwing names around when I suggested that Dell AMVA 22, but looking at it now, it seems like they’ve already cleared out their stock. Still, you could have asked for a second opinion before pulling the trigger—that's usually how you avoid these kinds of situations.

Regarding those cheap Dell AMVA monitors, they’re currently sold out at our local distributor, whether you're looking for the Dell GW2265M or the Dell GW2760. It isn't exactly surprising that they've cleared the shelves, because honestly, you won't find anything better for that kind of money—which is exactly why they're gone—but you can certainly find much worse, like what you're dealing with now.😉

I’ve always found that people tend to overcomplicate things when they should just look at the specs and move on. If you’re looking for an upgrade, you need to be realistic about what you're actually getting for your money. Honestly, if someone is still debating between these older models, they might be missing the point of why we buy tech in the first place—it's about utility, not endless comparisons. At the end of the day, you pick a monitor that does the job, and you stop worrying about the rest.

Joshua Garcia3 said:It turns out Dell actually uses panels from Samsung.So, the image needs to be more or less identical—which honestly sounds perfect.
The only thing that really bothers me is how clunky that stand looks, especially with its whole mechanism for adjusting the height and tilting the panel.

Sure, they can use it, but honestly, it doesn't offer any real advantage in this particular situation, because... The Dell E2214H. It’s just your run-of-the-mill TN panel and nothing more, basically sitting right alongside those cheap 22-inch budget models you'd pick up from AOC or Samsung.☕

Check this out: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/p...n&sku=858-BBBK
Cycling coverage in American media in Cycling ·
Kenneth Reed7 said:On Friday, June 6th, the Tour de France organized by the cycling group will be taking place. The cyclist union actually includes this topic as part of their core programming.

There’s a panel discussion happening at 10:00 AM over at the student union on Savska Road regarding bike theft prevention and how to actually fight back against it.

Friday, June 6, 2014 // 10:00 AM - 11:30 AM

Bike theft is one of those persistent headaches that plagues everyone from the weekend warrior to the daily commuter and even those who’ve hung up their jerseys for good. This panel is dedicated to tackling that plague head-on through effective prevention and smarter enforcement. We’ll be sitting down with a range of local and international experts to break down how we can actually fight back.


They say:
Daniel Sascko, cycling registry, America
The cycling registry was born from a simple desire shared by two friends and massive cycling enthusiasts to help the local community combat the rising number of bike thefts. Noticing there was absolutely no national database to track stolen property, John and Daniel decided to launch a digital registry back in the spring of 2013. They agreed from the start that the registry should be an open, web-based resource available to everyone at any time, and one that gets updated on a daily basis.

Marijan Podrug from the prevention department at the Chicago Police Department in America.

Tadej Brezin, Austria
Tadej Brezin is a junior researcher and PhD candidate at the transportation research center within the TU Wien Institute of Transport. As a graduate in civil engineering from TU Wien, his work focuses on public transit, cycling infrastructure, general transportation, and urban frameworks, specifically looking at how socio-technological systems function within the realm of mobility.

Wolter and Riele from the Dutch cycling embassy in the Netherlands.
Wolter and Riele are headed our way representing the Dutch cycling embassy. They are heavy hitters when it comes to developing public sector institutions and crafting high-level strategies and policies, specifically regarding spatial planning, transit, and massive infrastructure projects. Their resume includes work on the Rotterdam urban mobility plan, and they even spearheaded a project for the Ministry of Economic Affairs focused on revitalizing cities through business initiatives aimed at neighborhood beautification. They’ll be diving into the specific experiences and strategies that Americans have used over the decades to promote cycling and tackle the persistent issue of bike theft.

Entry is free.

Details of the program can be found on... www.tourdedefrance.com


If you’re part of the cyclist union, then I guess it’s fine.😁 As far as bicycle theft goes and actually providing decent protection against it, your association is clearly doing a pretty lousy job.Look, why don't you just explain to me exactly why you—and honestly, pretty much every other online cycling outlet out there—refuse to actually step up and do something like this? I don't see where the problem lies. To avoid repeating myself, I'll just quote my own previous post from the link below.As I see it, your website doesn't even feature a dedicated section offering advice on how to properly secure a bike against theft. Please don't try telling me that such a thing is difficult to implement, or suggest that it perhaps doesn't belong on your site at all; if that's the case, then I have to ask why it's missing and where exactly the issue lies.🤔

The cyclist union should really consider taking this suggestion and putting it right on their homepage."Warning: Stop using cable locks to secure your bike, because if you do, your bike can be stolen incredibly easily and quickly."Place a video like the one below right under that warning, and then everything becomes crystal clear—either it's obvious, or perhaps you think there's still some sort of dilemma involved here? As for how that warning should actually look in practice, I'll leave that to your web designers; something like that is quite easy to put together. Given the massive issue with bike theft in America, we need as many warnings like this as possible. Until you implement something similar, I won't consider you a serious organization, just another highly unprofessional outfit (of which there are plenty in America), so whoever wants to get angry can go ahead; I couldn't care less, as there's already enough nonsense in this country. We need to speak plainly about how things are for the benefit of cyclists, so people know exactly what they should never use to lock up their bikes.

http://youtu.be/2l5fow3qIWU

Regarding the Department of Justice prevention department,😁 and Mr. Podrug in the first post of this thread, we saw perfectly well how he handles prevention on a certain television station. Here are two slightly more recent online recommendations from the DOJ regarding how to properly protect a bike from theft and what tools to actually use. These two articles date back to August 19, 2013, and the second to August 30, 2013, but nothing has changed; everything is exactly as it was before.😵🙂

As for our famous cycling registry, or Bicreg, the guys deserve nothing but praise for a job well done, certainly. The only practical problem is this: after registering a bike, most owners don't bother putting the BicReg stickers on their bikes, even expensive ones like a $10.

When some thief looks for a bike to steal, seeing a BicReg sticker isn't going to physically stop him from taking it. However, when he sees that sticker, he will realize two things: the bike is registered along with its frame number in the database, which makes selling the entire bike extremely difficult. An informed buyer of such a registered bike simply needs to enter the frame number into BicReg and they will immediately know whether the bike was stolen or not, and that's that.☕
Cycling coverage in American media in Cycling ·
How the Department of Justice prevention department actually operates,😵 and what kind of bike security they actually suggest—that’s what we’ve been looking at. Now, here is a completely different perspective, where the police in a functional, well-ordered country recommend bike locks based on actual reality and current trends.

In this specific case, we're looking at the German police, specifically the official website for the Bremen Police Department, which serves as an excellent example. As you can clearly see, they don't even mention cable locks, let alone chains—the idea of "locking a bike" with those is honestly laughable. Instead, they strictly recommend using a U-Lock to prevent theft, specifically pointing toward several models that carry the Underwriters Laboratories label. For context, Underwriters Laboratories is a German institution that specializes in product safety testing, which includes the hardware used to secure bicycles. The first link is the original German version, and the second provides an English translation.🙂

http://www.polizei.bremen.de/sixcms/...en09.c.7002.de

https://tinyurl.com/kx6wjx5
Cycling coverage in American media in Cycling ·
northerncyclist2 said:Yeah, the situation is pretty grim. But hey, at least on this forum, which a massive crowd of people actually reads, you can get accurate and high-quality information, thanks to you and others who make an effort to explain the actual state of affairs in a way that makes sense.

And look, people are people—some will listen to advice, while others will just keep doing things their own way until their bike gets snatched for the first time. Some stay stubborn even after that happens. Then there are always those whose sole purpose is to spread misinformation for personal gain, or they just want to act smart when they really aren't.

When a few individuals try to help, that’s one thing,😁 but what is our Police Department even for, and who pays for them—us or some random Klingons out there? As far as I know, it's their job to handle these matters, specifically through prevention and education. They should be teaching how and in what way you ought to lock a bike, and what kind of gear you need for high-quality, secure locking. To that end, they should be running promotional campaigns and producing video segments to be aired on public television to show how things should work in practice. But here we are in America, a total circus, so I guess you can't do anything except stay quiet and endure all this nonsense.

If anyone happens to be interested,😁 here is what the Department of Justice prevention department does and the kind of recommendations they have regarding bike security. This is essentially what they suggest for protecting a bike; I've intentionally bolded or highlighted certain parts.

I honestly wonder who drafted this text; good grief, what on earth is a "protective chain" versus what they call a "cheap children's chain"? I don't think I've ever heard of "children's chains" for bikes before; am I supposed to walk into a shop and ask for a kid's bike chain?

To top it off, they say you shouldn't use cheap chains or padlocks with four-digit combinations. Now we get to the important part: whether you believe them or not, they actually recommend using a steel or coiled cable with a lock.🤔

As for this part about "locking the lock to the spokes, if you have one"—I won't even bother commenting on that because it's truly nonsensical.😵

And what about a U-Lock? It's like it isn't even mentioned, as if it doesn't exist. So, this is our Police Department and their "preventative" advice.😢

http://www.mup.gov/main.aspx?id=131128

• write down the parts and components, and if you have a front suspension fork, include its serial number (since that counts for something)

• it's a good idea to take photos of the bike, and you should keep your receipt as long as the bike is in use

• lock the bike with a protective chain; don't use 'childish,' cheap chains or padlocks with four-digit combinations that thieves can easily pick or break, but rather use a coiled or steel cable with a lock

• also lock the lock to the spokes, if you have one

• if you aren't near a designated bike parking area, you can tie your two-wheeled vehicle to a tree or a sturdy metal object like a pole or a fence. However, it is important to have a long enough cable so you can loop it through several points on the bike (through the wheels and the frame)

• try not to park your bike in the exact same spot every single day

• avoid leaving any tools sitting in your saddlebags, as they often end up being quite useful to a thief

• don't leave your bike unattended in highly visible or easy-to-access areas, particularly after dark

• make sure to lock the building entrance or the gate where you store your bike, regardless of how long you’ll be away or if you check on it frequently

• steer clear of buying cheap bikes from unauthorized or questionable private sellers

• remember to talk to your kids about this issue and teach them how to be responsible with their own gear

• if your bike does get stolen, report it to your local police station immediately, providing the exact location, a full description, and any identifying details like serial numbers or service stickers

• it is ultimately our responsibility to protect our property, and by doing so, we set a standard for everyone else in the neighborhood to break their bad habits

• if we don't take even a second to secure our ride, we might find ourselves asking the bitter question: "Where did my bike go?"
Cycling coverage in American media in Cycling ·
northerncyclist2 said:You probably won't achieve much with this post, but you did manage to give me a good laugh at the very least😂

Thanks

What is there actually to achieve here, I suppose,😁 besides making sure as many people as possible see just how nonsensical a completely misguided show like this can be.

After all, this is the largest American forum, isn't it, so it wouldn't be surprising if some folks from the Department of Justice prevention department decided to drop by the cycling group section. Maybe they should see who they sent to represent them on a certain program and hear what people actually think of his performance. The same could be said for this gentleman coming in from the bike repair shop. Given that he clearly knows where the core issue lies and why bikes get stolen in 95% of cases, his appearance on this show could honestly be considered an embarrassment. He failed to provide a single precise or concrete answer that would allow an uninformed viewer to immediately understand the reality of the situation. I've mentioned this plenty of times before; it is simply incredible and shameful that absolutely no one is willing to speak the plain truth publicly. In practice, things are quite simple: first, you have to tell the truth, and second, you need to show people what various cables and cheap chains actually look like.

"Don't use cables and cheap chains to lock your bikes, because if you do, beware, your bike could be stolen very quickly and easily"

As I've already stated, it's incredibly pathetic, but in the end, it becomes quite funny when you broaden the scope a bit and highlight the nonsense all the guests were rambling about during this broadcast.

When you listen to what this Mr. Podrug is saying—a police officer from their "prevention department"—it’s enough to make you die laughing. Instead of giving clear and precise answers, he just hits everything in sight without offering anything concrete regarding bike security. What does mentioning certain offices have to do with protecting a bike? And bringing up a Master Lock system designed for cars or car alarms has absolutely nothing to do with bicycle security. This specific quote is particularly mind-boggling to me; the way he phrased it was so misguided that the average uninformed viewer wouldn't have the slightest clue what he was talking about. Well, I suppose those are "strong metals"😵(though which metals are we talking about—copper, brass, aluminum, or heaven forbid steel?), and since metals are generally strong, to an uninformed, average viewer, that's just how it sounds. Let's not derail the conversation into a lecture on metallurgy; the guy blurted out something stupid and went on living his life, while the viewer didn't receive a single concrete or precise answer regarding bike protection.

"those are strong metals that cannot be cut easily with shears or filed down so easily"

Considering this individual works in the Department of Justice prevention department, it is deeply unfortunate; my sympathies go out to that department if more incompetent people like him are working there. A department like that shouldn't be staffed by people who provide such utterly confusing answers to simple questions. But given the current state of affairs in our country, we know how the DOJ prevention department operates, and it's consistently poor.

Regarding prevention for the massive problem of bike theft, the DOJ prevention department has certainly failed miserably.😉
Cycling coverage in American media in Cycling ·
I’ve noticed that there isn't a single thread like this one on this entire forum. So, here we are—whether this serves as a starting point for a debate or just a way to dissect a specific case, I suppose. Even when you stumble upon a real-world example, it immediately serves as a reminder that we are living in a complete circus. While plenty of people refuse to admit it, the harsh reality remains that when you add everything up, America is nothing more than a total clown show.

So, what’s even worth saying at this point? It feels like there isn't a single decent cycling program on American television, if you look at how the mainstream media handles it. As far back as I can remember, we’ve never actually had a high-quality show dedicated to cycling here in the States. When I talk about a good cycling program, I mean something that actually offers practical advice and real-world examples to help out riders who are still learning the ropes. If you have a show that claims to be about cycling, but it’s really just a collection of random race news interrupted by endless commercials—where the only "advice" you get is a pitch for some supplement or nothing at all—then you can't honestly call that a cycling show. A mix of minimal news and heavy advertising isn't serious programming; it’s just garbage.

Calling PBS a public broadcaster is a bit of a joke, though there’s really no point in wasting my energy arguing about it because you'll just end up frustrated for nothing. It’s enough to look at one specific issue, even if it has nothing to do with cycling, to see the pattern. In an era defined by information technology, where having basic digital literacy is practically mandatory, it’s telling that PBS shows absolutely zero interest in producing any kind of tech-focused programming. Once you realize that, it becomes painfully obvious where cycling fits into the hierarchy; it’s relegated to the bottom of the pile on a quasi-public station that functions more like a government-run corporation, and we all know exactly how those state-run entities operate. Beyond that, we have a handful of other minor players in the market—things like YouTube (which used to be Fox), some local news stations, or CNN—that basically cover the metro area. When you look at the rest of the country, you see countless small, local stations that are barely scraping by as it is. Given the lack of funding, you can't honestly expect any of these smaller local outfits to produce high-quality cycling shows, or anything of substance for that matter.

When it comes to the commercial networks around here—specifically FOX, FOX Sports, and the big mainstream channels—you really shouldn't expect any high-quality cycling programming. They simply do whatever serves their bottom line, pushing whatever content generates the most profit. You’ll find educational shows featuring actual useful advice on these stations only in extremely rare instances, if they even exist at all. So, my final takeaway is pretty simple: when it comes to cycling and related topics, traditional American television media scores exactly zero points.

Given how pervasive and powerful the internet has become as a medium, you’d think the digital landscape here in America would be more advanced or useful. Unfortunately, that's far from the reality, as much of what you find is just a flood of aggressive advertising and other mindless nonsense. Even when you dig deeper, there is a distinct lack of actual, practical advice or any clear, precise recommendations, especially when it comes to properly securing a bike against theft.

To kick things off, here is a prime example of how absolutely not to produce a segment on cycling issues; at this point, it’s less tragic and more just plain ridiculous. I’m talking about a recording from a local news station broadcast back on July 16, 2013. This particular segment was part of a two-and-a-half-hour block called Z1 Zoom, which covered various topics as any typical summer afternoon program would. However, they carved out nearly twenty minutes specifically to debate the massive issue of bike theft. If you actually sit down and watch the show—or even just look at its underlying concept and the way the guests were handled—it is enough to make you lose your mind. Honestly, what possible value could an uninformed viewer get out of this? When you weigh everything up, the whole thing was a complete and utter disaster. Below is a list of the most glaring blunders and sheer nonsense featured in this segment dedicated to bike theft. So, there you have it: twenty minutes of airtime wasted on the serious problem of stolen bikes.Aside from a fair amount of mindless, aimless rambling, that show didn't actually offer a single piece of precise or practical advice that you could actually use..😉

I just watched this video on YouTube, and honestly, there isn't much to add beyond the fact that it hits on some pretty fundamental points. It’s straightforward, though I suspect some people might find the delivery a bit blunt. Still, it lays out the situation clearly enough for anyone actually paying attention.

1. What kind of bike lock should you absolutely avoid using if you actually want to keep your ride? Everyone’s just sitting there in total silence like they’ve got nothing to say, even though I’m sure the guests realize exactly how easy and fast it is to snatch a bike that's only secured with a cable lock. To be honest, nobody on that show even bothered to mention cable locks; they just spent the whole time rambling about phantom codes and padlocks without offering a single concrete answer or a real explanation.

2. What kind of bike lock should people actually be using? I mean, you really need to mention a specific example of protection—like an actual model or something. And once again, nobody is saying a single word about cables or chains. It’s completely silent on the subject. As for the U-Lock, I can only assume people think we're talking about some kind of handheld massager.

3. The show didn't even bother providing any actual bike locks as visual aids, which means an uninformed viewer is left completely guessing about what gear looks like, what’s worth buying, and what’s just a waste of money. Now, some people might argue that they can't explicitly advertise certain brands, but honestly, that’s a non-issue; you could easily just cover up a company logo with some tape and call it a day. Whoever produced or organized this segment clearly had no idea how to run a program like this, where the whole point should be helping the average person by offering precise, practical advice. It would have been much smarter if they had spent their time actually preparing something useful instead of just producing a foggy, half-baked mess.

They’ve got this girl on the show complaining about how someone swiped her bike because she didn't bother to lock it, which is just great. Then, the same girl claims a friend of hers had a bike stolen right in front of a coffee shop—she basically just sat down for a drink and when she looked up, the bike was gone, amazing. The only thing she mentions is using a U-Lock, though she also says her friend had a bike snatched right off a balcony within two hours despite it being secured with both a U-Lock and a chain, and I’d bet anything on it. $1667 That bike wasn't secured with a U-Lock or chained to a metal fence, which should have been an immediate giveaway to any casual observer. To someone who doesn't know better, it’s obvious that even using a U-Lock—though nobody bothered to explain what one actually is or what it looks like, unless you think it's some kind of vibrator—doesn't offer much in terms of real protection. From the perspective of an uninformed onlooker or a potential buyer, seeing those two vague mentions of some strange, unknown "U-Lock" just makes it clear the security was subpar.

One guest claims that people around town are just riding cheap bikes that aren't worth much. $333, Look, we all know they’re cutting corners behind the scenes, so let's not pretend otherwise. If you're trying to conclude that a bike is actually cheap, maybe you should start by looking at whether the cable is even worth anything. $50 Or maybe just go with a U-Lock—if you even know what that actually is? $40 And yet, there isn't a single response in sight.

Some clumsy guy from the mobile bike repair service just told me something incredibly stupid. Every single combination can be cracked eventually; it’s really just a matter of how much time someone is willing to sit there and grind through it. At the end of the day, any lock is vulnerable if you give them enough time to figure out the right method. What exactly was the poet trying to convey with that "scorching sun" line? Honestly, I can't wrap my head around how that bit of poetic flair is supposed to provide any actual value to an uninformed viewer watching the broadcast.

The moderator keeps asking what exactly we can even protect, but when it comes to providing a straight answer or a precise recommendation for a specific bike lock model, everyone just stays dead silent.

Some clumsy guest in a white shirt—who happens to be a Department of Justice employee, an absolute expert if you believe that, apparently—says exactly this, or at least this is what the transcript shows: Security basically boils down to categories. You have protection that lasts a few minutes, then ten minutes, and then more. When we talk about home security, we usually deal with three distinct levels: no protection at all, something that buys you ten minutes, and then the high-end stuff used in professional offices—though I have no idea what kind of offices those would be these days. It’s the exact same logic for bicycles. There is plenty of high-quality protection out there, specifically systems using heavy metal plates. These aren't easily cut with bolt cutters or filed down; sure, someone could do it if they were willing to put in the time, but most people hitting a public space aren't looking to work that hard. Essentially, if people are going to steal vehicles, they're going to target spots where there isn't a Master Lock or an alarm system in place. For crying out loud, what was that poet actually trying to say?

9. The host asks how much extra cash someone should really shell out for decent bike security. Some clumsy guy from a mobile repair service answers her by saying, "Well, you're looking at somewhere from about $67 up to maybe 500-$200 for those better locks we'll just call the 'secure' ones." Fine, so apparently I can just buy a cheap cable lock for $100, wrap it around my $1667 bike, and call it a day—suddenly I've got a perfectly secured ride. Bottom line is, an uninformed viewer has absolutely no clue what to actually buy, which is the worst part; honestly, instead of making this show, they should have gone fishing for sturgeon in the Mississippi. In the end, an uneducated customer or viewer is probably just going to grab a cable lock for $67 because, well, what else? A cable is easy to use, and if a U-Lock—which sounds more like a toy than a tool—is actually supposed to be for bikes, then it's probably too expensive and impractical, which explains why they barely even mentioned it on the program.

10. To wrap things up, some Department of Justice official in a white button-down says, "I would recommend that citizens don't be so afraid; don't take this as a sign that you need to sell your bikes just to afford high-quality protection." But how is anyone supposed to secure their bikes properly if you haven't provided a single concrete or precise recommendation—other than that vague suggestion to spend 200-$200 without ever specifying an actual model of lock???
Dell UltraSharp 24" recommendations? in Computer Peripherals ·
Frank Clark59 said:Respect to everyone. I’m looking for some advice, an explanation, or just a bit of patience from those who know their stuff.
So, I’m looking for anyone willing to put in the effort to help me settle this dilemma. I’m currently living in St. Louis while finishing my studies, and while there are plenty of tech shops around, this one place () is basically the most affordable option with decent service, so I usually end up doing my shopping there.
My current 21" CRT—it's a Miro brand, which is a name I've honestly never even heard of before—has started acting up after five years of constant use. I tend to shut it down for Christmas, Easter, and the entire month of August when I head home, but now it keeps shutting itself off, similar to what happens when you hit the degauss button. It's happening more frequently lately; maybe twice every ten minutes, but then it hits a streak where it happens five times in a single minute, making gaming nearly impossible. I think it's nearing the end of its life, and honestly, it’s getting harder to stop my roommates from smashing it. One of my old 19" CRTs actually met its end last year when they were thrilled enough to toss it off a balcony—I actually have a video if anyone cares to see. Personally, I lose my temper when I'm in the middle of a match in World of Tanks and the screen cuts out; by the time it reboots (which takes anywhere from 4 to 14 seconds depending on how many times it "degausses"), I've usually been wiped out. The only thing keeping me from cursing this machine out is our long history together, and there's absolutely no way I'm breaking it until I get a replacement. So, I went out to check out the options, specifically 22", 24", and 27" models. I'm leaning toward a 24", and two specific ones caught my eye, so if you could help me out...
1- the first one is a Samsung

2- the second is a BenQ

Starting with the first one, the Samsung.
It looks better to me, but once I sit down to work—and by work, I mean gaming and movies—you wouldn't even know what I'm talking about if you asked me how the monitor looks. I only care about the image; I never look at the surrounding plastic, so the aesthetics don't really matter to me. I don't care about what girls say, like "Oh, this looks pretty," because my room looks like Fukushima and I don't have any girls coming over to look at it anyway. It’s a little more expensive than the competitor, but that's not a dealbreaker for me. One thing is confusing, though: somewhere it says it's 23.6" and elsewhere it says it's 24" (http://www.lg.com/rs/monitori/lg-24EN43TS-led-monitor). That's a problem right there—who's lying? Can someone clarify this? Because everyone seems to agree the other one is a true 24".
Also, could someone give me a brief but clear explanation of this "LED" screen type? While searching online, I ran into all these terms: IPS, TN, LED, TFT, color gamut (and what value I should actually be looking for)... I'd appreciate it if someone could clear the air. If you're too busy, don't worry about it; I don't want to be a nuisance since I'll need your help with other things later. Both of them have LED, so that won't be the deciding factor, but I'd like to understand what it actually means so I don't look like an idiot. And what about these other specs? For instance, the Samsung has a contrast ratio of 5 million, while the other one claims 12 million. The logic suggests the second one is better based on what this site says, http://www.benq.com/product/monitor/gl2460hm, and also on this one: http://www.itsvet.com/proizvod/benq-...onitor/21/3973 It says 1,000:1, which sounds like a disaster. I was wondering if that’s why the BenQ is cheaper, or maybe because it’s just a weaker brand. In my head, Samsung is definitely the "stronger" brand, so please correct me if I'm wrong. To me, branding only matters if it actually translates to quality; the name itself isn't vital, since you can find incredible products from brands nobody has ever even heard of. Ultimately, I don't care what's printed on the bezel, I just want a good picture. Regarding that contrast ratio, it claims a dynamic contrast of 12 million. That sounds better than the 5 million listed for the Samsung, but I'm not entirely sure what "dynamic contrast" actually entails. Is it just a marketing gimmick, or is that 12 million figure legitimate enough that this would technically outperform the Samsung in that specific category? I need your insight on this.
Next question for you all—take your time, no rush. The Samsung has a 5ms response time while the BenQ offers 2ms. I figured I should explain exactly what I do with my setup so you can give me an informed answer. I spend my time playing Call of Duty 2 (some days I'm at it all day, other days just for a few hours depending on the workload), Battlefield 1942, and Lord of the Rings: Battle for Middle-earth—just the first one, mind you, because the sequel has more units than the hair on Tom Hanks' head in *Cast Away*. I also played OGame day and night for six years, though I'm currently under a ban until 2041, so I won't be touching that until the sentence is served; by then, this monitor will probably be dead and replaced anyway, but I felt I had to mention my old obsession. Then there's the unfortunate state of World of Tanks; ever since last month's patch, it's hard to play because it demands a much beefier PC, and the game is such a money pit that since I'm broke, it's not exactly fair to me, so I'll pass. I mostly grinded it just to buy a Tiger tank before my buddy could beat me to it. Other titles include Cossacks: Back to War, which I play occasionally, and Dota, though I rarely jump in because I'm either mediocre or my friend is way too good. If I'm going to play, I want to be good, but learning every hero and item takes a year, and I just don't have the patience. I also play Command & Conquer: Generals Zero Hour and some other classics briefly, usually only playing Brothers in Arms when I'm forced to play with my buddies. Most of these games are old, so I assume response time only really matters for FPS titles, but I'll let you judge. I'm a decent player in CoD and Battlefield, so if there's a noticeable difference, it would mean a lot. For media, I watch a movie or a series a day; I'm not looking for some hyper-realistic cinematic experience, but I do appreciate a solid image. I watch a few YouTube documentaries daily, but that depends more on the video quality than the monitor, so that's negligible. For school, it's just Word documents and PowerPoint presentations. However, when studying online, I'm usually glued to the screen for three or four hours reading texts, plus a few more hours reading other things on various forums. Thankfully, I don't have any eye strain issues. Space isn't an issue for me, so I don't care about those people who claim they have to mount their monitors on the wall; the stand type doesn't matter, I can fit it anywhere, I just want the best picture possible.
I've seen conflicting info online about whether this BenQ has built-in speakers or not. Personally, I'd prefer it didn't, as it just drives up the price unnecessarily when I already own speakers. I don't gain anything from having them in the monitor, and I'd actually prefer they weren't there because I worry they might compromise other components or increase the complexity of the device, which just raises the chance of a hardware failure, and I just want something that works reliably.
In case it helps you make a call, my graphics card is an AMD Radeon HD 5670.
As for power consumption, I couldn't care less. My electricity is a fixed monthly cost, so whether one monitor pulls as much power as a Japanese handheld or a welding machine makes zero difference to me.
If anyone feels like helping and doesn't want to type it all out, I can jump on Skype to go over this quickly.

If you're torn between that BenQ and the Samsung model, there's really no decision to make: skip the BenQ and grab the Samsung. That BenQ uses a TN LCD panel, whereas the Samsung features an IPS panel, giving the Samsung a massive advantage.

Don't get distracted by those massive dynamic contrast ratios; those numbers in the millions are nothing more than a marketing gimmick designed to sell hardware. Most budget TN or IPS monitors on the market today have an actual contrast ratio of around 1000:1, which is the only metric that truly matters.

If you look at LCD monitors utilizing VA, MVA, or the newer AMVA panels, they offer a noticeably higher real-world contrast, typically hitting around 1500:1. These AMVA panels deliver much deeper, more realistic blacks compared to almost any cheap IPS monitor you'll find. For instance, we could point to two excellent, budget-friendly BenQ models, like the BenQ GW2265M or the significantly larger BenQ GW2760/HS. BenQ stands as the largest and most recognized manufacturer of MVA or modern AMVA panels. Their displays are produced by AU Optronics, a company owned by BenQ that supplies LCD panels to various major brands including NEC, Lenovo, Samsung, Dell, Apple, ViewSonic, and Acer.😉
Which monitor should I get? in Computer Peripherals ·
wanderingpanther68 said:I'm also a huge Van Halen fan 😉 , though I still need to do some more digging. Like I mentioned, there's no massive rush to go out and grab a monitor tomorrow, but I definitely want one soon. It’s certainly easier to narrow down my options now that you guys have shared your recommendations. 😉

If you're looking for the absolute best bang for your buck, that BenQ 22 model at $267 is the clear winner and there really isn't much else to consider.☕
Which monitor should I get? in Computer Peripherals ·
wanderingpanther68 said:you’re basically Rambo on the tech forums 😁 and you always made that point about DVI there, so I get it—connecting a digital device via an analog signal is pointless. I agree, 🙂 that’s only relevant for those terrible old CRT monitors, but look at my SmartVision 19; back in the day, I had an Nvidia Gainward card with a DVI port, so I bought a DVI cable to try it out, but I couldn't even get the resolution I wanted, so I just went back to using VGA 😁 and honestly, I didn't see any noticeable difference in image quality with my naked eye when using DVI.

But when I pick up a new monitor, it’ll be connected via DVI, obviously. 😉

That AOC looks pretty great!

Well, I am definitely the Rambo of this group,😁 but go ahead and take another look at my previous post. I actually took that AOC out of the running because I almost forgot all about this excellent BenQ 22 monitor. If you're dead set on a 22-inch screen, grab that BenQ model, because that specific BenQ unit is a total steal.😉
Which monitor should I get? in Computer Peripherals ·
wanderingpanther68 said:figured I'd throw my question out there too.

I’ve been using this 19-inch SmartVision LCD for ages; it isn't widescreen and I'm currently running it via VGA, though it does have a DVI output. My current integrated graphics card lacks a DVI port, but I’ll be upgrading to a dedicated card very soon.

Basically, I’m looking to pick up a larger monitor soon for movies and stuff—ideally an LED, though an LCD works; I'm torn between 20 or 22 inches, but if I'm spending the money on something better, I might as well go for the 22.🙄 A 24-inch would be way too much for me.😁 Even this 19-inch doesn't feel small, just habit.🙂

Here are a few finds from Craigslist... they're all LCD, but I feel like LED is the better way to go since they're thinner, look nicer, and generally offer a superior picture. Or perhaps just a high-quality LCD panel.

These are some cheap options, and the last one is more expensive because it's not from Craigslist, but it is an LED.

http://www.craigslist.org/offers/lcd-monitors/...listing-10983834

http://www.craigslist.org/offers/lcd-monitors/...listing-9867534

http://www.bestbuy.com/products/...83/dell-e2214h

I think I'll settle on the 22-inch. For instance, a 19-inch widescreen feels too cramped vertically, whereas a 22-inch widescreen is pretty much ideal.

If you really want a 22-inch monitor but want to keep your costs down, you should definitely skip that Dell model. In practical terms, that specific Dell is just your standard TN panel, and for a 22-inch screen, $350 it's honestly overpriced for what you get.

Take a look at the link below instead; $267 it's a great buy because it uses a modern AMVA FlickerFree LCD matrix rather than a TN panel. Just a heads-up, if a DVI cable isn't included with the monitor, you'll need to pick one up separately. These days, trying to hook a PC up to a monitor using an ancient VGA or D-Sub connection is just a massive mistake in practice.😉

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/Monitor/BenQ_...or-p47125.html

http://www.benq.com/product/monitor/gw2265m/

Best Home Theater PC build for around $400? in Desktops ·
Amy Vaughn12 said:If you're looking for a solid way to build out a Home Theater PC without overcomplicating the hardware side of things, you should take a look at this Futura HTPC3 setup. It’s pretty straightforward, focusing on a reliable chassis and sensible components that won't break the bank while still delivering a smooth experience for media playback. It isn't trying to be some over-engineered monster; it's just a practical, compact solution for anyone wanting to tuck a capable machine under their living room TV.

That’s a decent enough build for an AMD AM1 setup, though you could easily shake things up with a different case or swap out some components if you felt like it.😉

Robert Rodriguez2 said:One MSI H87M-E33 motherboard featuring a Socket 1150 and an Intel Core Chipset, paired with two DDR3 slots supporting speeds up to 1333/1600.
One Intel Core i3-4130 processor, clocked at 3.40GHz.
I've got one 4GB stick of Kingston DDR3 running at 1600MHz with CL11 latency—just the standard Value RAM.
I've got one 1TB Seagate desktop hybrid drive sitting here—it's a SATA III, 7200 rpm model with an 8GB SSD cache built in.
I have one LG Blu-ray and HD DVD rewritable drive, model CH12NS40, featuring a SATA connection and 12x BD-R support.
One Zalman ZM-T2 PLUS micro tower case, measuring 189mm wide by 427.5mm high by 364mm deep.
I've got one Corsair 430W power supply from the CX series, featuring 80+ Bronze efficiency and EPS12V v2.3 support.

$1011
adm.hr


I suppose that means we’ll eventually need to pick up some kind of wireless keyboard and mouse combo as well.

I took a look at that Dell OptiPlex Micro listing, and honestly, it’s one of those pieces of hardware that makes you wonder why anyone bothers with anything else when they just need a reliable workhorse. It's a straightforward little machine, nothing flashy, but it gets the job done without any unnecessary drama. If you're looking to build a decent Home Theater PC or just need something compact to tuck away under a desk in a home office, this setup is about as solid as it gets. It’s got that no-nonsense utility that usually defines high-quality American enterprise gear.

In total.
$1080

If we're looking at what he actually needs, an AMD AM1 setup is really the most logical way to go. A build like this offers plenty of CPU headroom for a dedicated Home Theater PC, the price tag stays significantly lower than other options, and most importantly, it’s incredibly efficient—we're talking about a power draw of only around 40W. Honestly, you just need to pick out the strongest Athlon available for the AM1 socket and call it a day; that's your complete solution right there. $617.☕

I’ve been looking over the recent discussions regarding the hardware availability and the shifting landscape of budget computing components, and it seems we are heading toward a period where the distinction between high-end desktop power and mobile efficiency is becoming increasingly blurred. It is quite clear that the era of the dedicated, low-power workstation being a niche category is ending, especially as manufacturers push more sophisticated Ultra-Low Voltage architectures into spaces we previously reserved for full-sized towers. There is an interesting tension here between those who want to build specialized Home Theater PCs and those simply trying to squeeze every bit of performance out of a Dell OptiPlex Micro. When you look at how much processing power is packed into these modern Mobile CPUs compared to what we were working with just a few years ago, it becomes difficult to argue for the necessity of larger, heat-heavy setups for everyday tasks. We are seeing a shift where the sheer density of performance in small-form-factor machines is making older, larger desktop standards feel somewhat obsolete for the average user. It isn't just about the raw speed, though; it’s about the inevitable direction the industry is taking with integrated chipsets and thermal management. If you are someone like Robert Rodriguez2, who appreciates the nuance of component longevity, you have to wonder if these shrinking footprints will eventually compromise our ability to upgrade or repair systems easily. We are trading modularity for convenience, a trade-off that many seem happy to make, even if it means being locked into whatever ecosystem a manufacturer decides to push on us next. It’s a calculated move by the big players, and while it offers incredible utility for most, it leaves very little room for the enthusiast who actually wants to tinker under the hood.

I was looking through some specs online for an old Dell OptiPlex Micro build, specifically one running an Intel Core i3-4130, and it got me thinking about how much these little machines have changed since the days when we were all just trying to get a decent Home Theater PC running on a budget. It’s funny how you can find these tiny units that pack enough punch to handle basic tasks without breaking a sweat, even if they are running on an older Intel Core Chipset. You look at the hardware and realize that while the tech moves fast, the utility of a solid, small-form-factor machine stays pretty much the same. It’s a straightforward piece of kit, nothing flashy, but it gets the job done if you know what you're looking for.

I was browsing through some hardware listings earlier and came across this specific build featuring an AMD AM1 setup, which feels like a bit of a relic from a different era of computing. It’s one of those configurations that reminds you how much the landscape has shifted since we were primarily looking at entry-level builds for basic tasks. While it might seem dated by modern standards, there is still a certain practical logic to these types of machines if you are just looking for something low-profile and functional for light workloads. It isn't anything groundbreaking, but it serves its purpose without any unnecessary flair.

I was looking through some specs for an old Dell OptiPlex Micro, specifically one running an Intel Core i3-4130, and it really makes you think about how much hardware we take for granted these days. It’s a basic little machine, nothing flashy, just a standard setup with 2GB of RAM that probably struggles if you try to do anything more taxing than opening a single browser tab. You look at those older mobile CPU configurations and realize just how quickly the baseline for what we consider "functional" has shifted upward. It’s a modest bit of tech, but it serves its purpose if you aren't asking it to perform miracles.

I was looking over the specs for the Seagate Barracuda ST500DM002, and honestly, if you're still relying on these old spinning drives for anything more than basic file storage, you're essentially living in the past. It’s a 500GB drive, which feels incredibly cramped by modern standards, especially when most people are used to terabytes of space, but I suppose it serves its purpose if you just need a cheap spot to dump some documents or old photos. It’s a standard SATA drive, nothing fancy, just a reliable little workhorse that does exactly what it says on the box without any unnecessary bells and whistles. If you're building a budget machine or just need a secondary drive to act as a graveyard for files you don't actually care about, this works fine, but don't expect it to keep up with the speeds of a modern SSD if you're trying to run anything intensive.

I was looking through some specs on the ZM T1 Plus, which is essentially a compact little machine designed to function as a dedicated Home Theater PC. It’s built around an Intel Core i3-4130, paired with an Intel Core Chipset, making it a pretty straightforward option if you aren't looking to break the bank on a specialized build. While it utilizes a Mobile CPU to keep the thermal profile under control, the overall architecture is solid enough for basic media tasks. It's a decent little unit for anyone needing a small-form-factor setup that just works without any unnecessary fuss.

I was looking through some hardware specs recently and came across this Hexa 400 unit, which seems to be a pretty straightforward little setup if you're just looking for something basic. It’s essentially a compact machine built around an Intel Core i3-4130, which isn't exactly cutting-edge by today's standards, but for certain tasks, it gets the job done without much fuss. You've got the Intel Core Chipset handling the heavy lifting under the hood, and since it utilizes a Mobile CPU, it stays relatively efficient in terms of power draw. It’s the kind of thing you might see someone using as a dedicated Home Theater PC or perhaps just a simple workstation for light office work. It doesn't scream high performance, but for a budget-conscious user who needs a reliable little box sitting on a desk, it serves its purpose quite adequately.

http://www.futura-it.us/catalog/computers/optical-drives/
New build!!! in Desktops ·
Robert Rodriguez2 said:Advanced Highly HPA Series 1 x The Asrock FM2A75M-DGS. It’s an AMD A75 Hudson D2 on an M-ATX layout, built with Solid Capacitor components.
I've got one AMD Trinity Athlon ii x4 750 available, running at 3.40GHz with those four cores.
I've got one 4GB stick of DDR3 Kingston HyperX RAM, running at 1600MHz with CL9 latency (part number KHX1600C9D3B1/).
One unit of the Chicony HPA-400W, specifically from the Advanced Highly HPA Series 1 x.
I’ve got one Zalman ZM-T4 micro tower case on hand, measuring 189mm wide by 427.5mm high and 364mm deep. Motherboard...
I've got one desktop Toshiba DT01ACA050 on hand—it's a 500GB drive spinning at 7200rpm with a SATA 6 Gb/s interface and 32MB cache.
I’ve got one ASUS HD7770-1GD5 on hand—it's an AMD Radeon card featuring 1024 MB of DDR5 memory and runs on a PCIe 3.0 interface.
One Samsung SH-224DB sat Bulk Black DVD burner, SATA.
I've got one Thermaltake Contact 16 available, compatible with a wide range of sockets including 775, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, FM1, 1155, and 1156.

$1030

I'm curious why you're leaning toward an AMD FM2 motherboard specifically.😁 If you aren't planning on dropping a new Kaver Apa or even the upcoming AMD Carrizo Apa in 2015, then there really isn't much point in looking elsewhere. If anyone is currently building an AMD rig—and I’m obviously not talking about those old AM3+ setups—you really ought to be picking up or recommending an FM2+ motherboard without hesitation.

What’s even the point of making these kinds of recommendations when you look at how things actually work on the ground; we have FM2+ motherboards sitting right there in our local shops and they aren't exactly breaking the bank. In practice, it's just... $17 Prices are fluctuating because all the budget models are currently sold out, though we’re expecting a fresh shipment to land soon. It makes you wonder what happens down the road when some forum regular decides they want to drop a Kaver Apa or a Carrizo Apa into their FM2 motherboard, only to realize too late that the hardware just isn't compatible.😉

FM2

I took a look at that product listing for the AMD A75 Hudson D2 setup, and honestly, it’s pretty straightforward hardware if you know what you're looking for. It’s a standard configuration, nothing too flashy, just a reliable way to get an AMD-based system up and running without overcomplicating things. If you're trying to decide whether it fits your specific needs, just look at the core specs and don't get distracted by the marketing fluff. It does exactly what it says on the tin.

FM2+

I was looking through some hardware specs recently and came across this mATX chassis. It’s pretty straightforward, really—just a standard micro-ATX box that gets the job done without any unnecessary flair. If you aren't looking to build a massive tower and just need something compact enough to fit on a desk without taking over the entire room, this is a decent little option. It isn't anything groundbreaking, but for a basic setup, it serves its purpose perfectly fine.

I’ve been looking over the specs for this specific motherboard, and honestly, it’s exactly the kind of component you need if you're trying to squeeze everything out of an older setup without breaking the bank. It’s a solid choice for anyone working around an AMD platform who needs reliable stability and decent connectivity. If you're building something functional and straightforward, this is a dependable piece of hardware that gets the job done without any unnecessary fluff.
Best monitor under $250? in Computer Peripherals ·
Robert Morales47 said:I’m looking for some solid recommendations for a high-quality monitor, ideally around 23 or 24 inches, though I'd definitely prefer something slightly larger than 24 if possible. My main uses will be gaming—I'm currently running an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060—as well as watching movies and general web surfing. I’ve heard that IPS panels offer much better color accuracy, so I'd really like to stick with an IPS matrix. Ideally, I'm hunting for something with a quick response time, maybe in the 2ms to 5ms range, though I wouldn't be totally opposed to 8ms if the quality is there. My budget is... $500 Can I stretch this to its absolute limit? $667I’d probably just pay cash for it, and honestly, I’d prefer picking it up from Amazon or Google. Or maybe just hit up Digital Trends since their prices are way lower than everywhere else.

By the way, does anyone have any thoughts on the Dell UltraSharp U2412? 😕

Thanks! 🙂

That Dell is a solid choice, but we’re talking about a 24-inch screen here, and I think you should take a closer look at this really attractive 27-inch HP model since it features a Samsung IPS panel. Even though you mentioned you prefer staying with a 24-inch size and noted you could set aside a certain amount... $667 Regarding that monitor, I’m telling you, take a look at what's available here because we're talking about a seriously solid 27-inch display for that kind of price.😉

Check out this listing on Amazon for the Best Buy LG monitor.

http://www.aocmonitorap.com/root/my/...50#prettyPhoto

I watched the video, and honestly, there isn't much more to say about it than what’s already been laid out on the table. It covers the basics quite clearly, though I find myself wishing they had spent a bit more time digging into the actual performance nuances rather than just skimming the surface of the specs. It’s fine for a quick overview if you're just looking for the highlights, but if you're someone who actually cares about the granular details, you might find it a little thin. Still, it gets the job done without wasting too much of your time.

Check out this test on an identical HP model, though it’s only the 23-inch version; since both the smaller one and the larger 27-inch model utilize the exact same LCD panel, there really isn't much else to discuss.☕

I took a look at the review for that HP monitor over at PCMonitors. It’s a decent enough breakdown, though it doesn't exactly reinvent the wheel. The panel quality seems solid for the price point, which is usually where these things live or die. If you're looking for something straightforward that won't break the bank, it might be worth considering, provided you aren't expecting anything groundbreaking from the color accuracy or response times. Just a standard, functional piece of kit for a typical desktop setup.
Best Buy monitor (under $150) in Computer Peripherals ·
Joshua Garcia3 said:Take a look at these IPS monitors and pick whichever one fits your budget best. My suggestion would be either the Samsung or the Apple if you're willing to stretch your budget just a little bit beyond $333.

Given the size constraints, that General Electric model down there is probably your best bet—a 23-inch screen for $313 should get the job done without any headaches. Generally speaking, almost all of those budget-friendly IPS monitors rely on an IPS matrix, which means whether you go with General Electric, Dell, or HP, you're looking at similar tech.

The cheaper Samsung models don't typically use IPS panels, though you have to watch out because some Samsungs still use TN panels, and they aren't exactly rare. However, Samsung has their own proprietary technology called IPS, which delivers image quality that is essentially on par with standard IPS LCD matrices.☕
Monitor advice: Screen size vs. aspect ratio? in Computer Peripherals ·
Ronald Diaz said:I'm looking to pick up a new monitor and have a few questions, so I’d appreciate some advice from the more experienced users here.🙂
My desk is currently a mess because I've got an old 20" iMac sitting above a 26" LCD (only 720p) that I use for my PS3. I just got a new PC and my plan is to clear out the clutter by consolidating everything onto a single new monitor. Ideally, the monitor should have HDMI plus either DisplayPort or DVI, preferably an IPS panel, and built-in speakers—though I can easily sort the audio situation if needed. My budget is around $833, and I'll be using it roughly 70% for PC work and 30% for the PS3.
My first dilemma is size: 23/24 inches or 27? Since I play games, I’m leaning toward 27", but I'm worried that might be too large for a 1920x1080 resolution, making the pixel pitch feel too coarse while I'm working on the computer.
The second thing is the aspect ratio: 16:10 or 16:9? For work purposes, I'd prefer 16:10, but I've noticed that some Dell models don't handle HD resolutions particularly well, often just stretching the image to fill the whole screen. Is there a 16:10 monitor out there that handles 1080p or 720p gracefully by adding black bars at the top and bottom?
A few specific models caught my eye, so if anyone has hands-on experience with them, please let me know.🙂
LG 24ea53vq and the 27" version of the same.
Asus vs278q isn't an IPS, but it has built-in speakers and decent reviews.
AOC i2369vm and its 27" counterpart. These AOC monitors seem to check all my boxes—IPS (appears to be an LG panel based on what I found), speakers, etc.—and the price is great, but I'm unsure about the quality since there aren't many reviews available.
Apologies for the long post and any typos; I'm typing this on my phone while away on vacation.🙂

Regarding monitor sizes and those diagonal differences, take a look at the link below and the photo I uploaded to get a clear comparison of how they actually scale.😉
Monitor's dead in Computer Peripherals ·
John Chavez222 said:I’ve got a Dell UltraSharp 24 monitor that’s about five or six years old now, and well, it decided to quit on me today—sorry for the bluntness. Here is the situation: I can turn it on, but once it does, the desktop looks incredibly dim, especially along the bottom. It basically fades from light at the top to dark at the bottom. On top of that, the image just cuts out completely about two seconds after power-up. Is there any way to fix this myself without heading to a repair shop, or should I start bracing myself for the bill? 😢

It sounds like the power supply failed or maybe some capacitors gave out, which is pretty standard for hardware this age. You really have two main options for service here; you could try Geek Squad, which handles authorized repairs, or check out the other link provided. Just give them a call and ask for a diagnostic estimate, as they usually have a good idea of what the issue is and what the repair will run you, since this isn't exactly a rare occurrence.☕

http://www.geeksquad.com/

http://www.bestbuy.com/
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
swiftfalcon89 said:Corsair CX430

http://www.amazon.com/s?k=80+plus+bronze

I thought someone on the forum specifically mentioned looking for power supplies up to a certain limit, $100 so I'm a bit confused about how we ended up $117 here. Either there's some confusion regarding the numbers being discussed or I've missed something, but honestly, he could just pick up that Fortron unit listed below and be perfectly fine. That Corsair is definitely overpriced, especially since, in any real-world scenario, it isn't offering anything superior to the Fortron.☕

http://www.newegg.com/p/products/fortron-power-supply

http://www.bestbuy.com/p/fortron-power-supply
Are these speakers any good? in Computer Peripherals ·
wanderingmarlin0 said:By the way, if you're claiming these aren't any good, what exactly qualifies as being better??

They’re definitely overpriced, and since those satellites are basically just single-driver plastic trinkets, you end up with mediocre sound quality. I don't know what kind of budget you're working with, but these Genius speakers are actually solid; considering the price point, they really don't have much competition in that bracket, for sure.☕😉



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3wzeH-o_Vw
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Adam Moore3 said:Sure, EVGA isn't exactly some mystery brand you've never heard of. I honestly don't think they would just slap fake specs on their power supply labels like that. When you buy from a German company, you get what you pay for. 😁

I wasn't actually talking about the EVGA unit, I was referring to that other one. EVGA 500 W I'm not quite sure what you're getting at with that, so if you have a specific question or something you want me to look at, just lay it out for me. $90 You can just sit there and wonder what this is even about if you want.🙂I’d honestly rather just grab this Corsair unit from the other link instead. Sure, the 380W rating is a bit on the weak side, but I don't see much point in risking it; if I mess this up, I'll just end up hitting my head against the wall anyway.😂

I found this listing for a 380GB hard disk online, though I can't say much about its current availability or if it’s actually worth your time given how quickly hardware becomes obsolete. It looks like a standard drive, nothing particularly special, but if you're just looking for some basic storage to fill out an older build, it might serve its purpose. Just keep in mind that in the grand scheme of things, capacity like this doesn't mean much anymore when everything has moved toward much faster, larger SSDs.

When it comes to EVGA power supplies, the logic remains pretty much the same; anything sitting below this specific model isn't even worth mentioning, let alone buying, unless you're in a massive bind and money is tight.If you're looking for a high-quality, battle-tested power supply—ideally from a reputable manufacturer—you really can't go wrong by sticking to the big names. The most critical component of any computer setup is... There’s really no point in bringing this up again, especially since I can't even count how many times people have gone out of their way to intentionally ignore it. The golden rule..☕

I took a look at that hardware breakdown on the site, and honestly, it’s the kind of deep dive you expect when someone actually knows their way around a chassis. It covers a decent spread of components, specifically looking at how various power supplies hold up under pressure. They spent some time dissecting the Corsair CX 430, which is a staple for budget builds in the States if you just need something reliable enough to get the job done without breaking the bank. It’s a straightforward unit, nothing flashy, but it serves its purpose for mid-range setups where you aren't trying to push extreme overclocking limits. They also touched on the EVGA 500 W and the EVGA 600 W, which are pretty much the go-to choices for anyone building a solid, dependable PC here. The review feels measured, avoiding the usual hype cycles, and instead focuses on the actual stability of the voltage rails and how these units handle a steady load. If you're sitting there wondering whether to grab a Corsair CX 430 or step up to something from EVGA, this gives you a pretty clear picture of the trade-offs involved in terms of efficiency and build quality. It's a solid read for anyone who prefers facts over marketing fluff.