Posts by wiredotter14

crimsonstag84 said:Intel Core i7 10700K - $586

We’ve finally hit the point where an Intel chip isn't just cheaper or running cooler—it's actually more future-proof than AMD.
The 10700K is a legitimate rival to the 5600X. Sure, maybe Ryzen takes a tiny lead in gaming, but the 10700K brings more cores to the table.
Obviously, you'll need to shell out for a better motherboard, an extra cooler, and all that.

The whole landscape has flipped, but honestly? Both paths are pretty solid right now.

Terry Lewis2 said:The Apple Magic keyboard. Key feel is similar to an Apple laptop, or even a Lenovo Flex (which honestly has one of the best keyboards out there). It's wireless via Bluetooth, rechargeable, and comes in versions with or without a number pad.

Using an Apple Magic keyboard on Windows is a joke. The function keys don't match up, you lose the separate delete and backspace keys, and it’s overpriced.

The Logitech K280 for $67 is a solid choice—tested and proven. It's splashproof if you spill something, and the build quality feels comparable to high-end laptops.

https://www.amazon.com/logitech-k280-keyboard/

Alexander Moore67 said:If you're looking to upgrade to a better GPU, like a new 1650, then this is definitely a best buy.

https://www.newegg.com/p/pc-builds...70229/product/

$1867

👍👍

Thomas Wells5 said:AMD Ryzen 5 Pro 4650 tray + cooler, s. AM4, 100-100000143MPK
091.500.089
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Asrock B450 Gaming K4, 90-MXB8A0-A0UAYZ, AM4
Asrock B450 Gaming K4, 90-MXB8A0-A0UAYZ, AM4
094.500.098
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DDR4 16GB (2x8) Crucial 3200MHz Ballistix Sport Black, BL2K8G32C16U4B
DDR4 16GB (2x8) Crucial 3200MHz Ballistix Sport Black, BL2K8G32C16U4B
096.100.773
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Crucial SSD 480GB BX500, SATA3, CT480BX500SSD1
Crucial SSD 480GB BX500, SATA3, CT480BX500SSD1
098.600.151
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LC Power 650W GreenPower4 LC6650GP4 V2.4 S-Modular 80+ Gold
LC Power 650W GreenPower4 LC6650GP4 V2.4 S-Modular 80+ Gold
101.100.299
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Aerocool Shard, acrylic window, Mid Tower, RGB, ACCM-PV14012.11
Aerocool Shard, acrylic window, Mid Tower, RGB, ACCM-PV14012.11
100.300.575
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So, it looks like this $1608 at Best Buy

That SSD—you could grab a 500GB one for less, but since you're already looking at an SSD priced over $267, just go with a 1TB NVMe instead.

Regarding the power supplies, pick based on how much headroom you want, but I wouldn't put LC Power in a gaming rig. Pretty sure that price for the LC Power is a typo. A 500W Seasonic is a much better call.

btw, Best Buy won't apply that 10% discount until you hit checkout.

If they can scrape by on integrated graphics for a while, maybe they’ll actually land something decent by the end of the year.

But honestly, the 3400G isn't worth it. It's just an older second-gen quad-core, basically a 2500X with integrated graphics.
Instead, for roughly the same cash, they could grab an Intel Core i3-10100F—which outperforms the 3400G (it's effectively an i7 7700)—plus a GT 1030, which performs about the same as Vega 11.
The 4650G is third-gen, similar to a Ryzen 3600. There's a massive difference there. If they try to slap a decent card like an RTX 3060 in later, that 3400G is going to be a total bottleneck.
It's got Vega 7 instead of 11, but the clock speeds are higher and you can overclock the integrated graphics.
Plus, they could get better RAM; 3200 MHz CL22 is pretty underwhelming.
Better to ditch that cheap Zalman 700W and get a high-quality unit with lower wattage.

Going with a 4650G paired with a B450 or B550 motherboard (B550 isn't expensive anymore) is a total no-brainer if you want integrated graphics and a real upgrade path down the road.

Regarding used GPUs, I'd personally just hunt for a cheap one and an Intel Core i5-10400F, maybe for around $500-$233. For example, a GTX 950 blows any integrated graphics out of the water, and those older cards with less VRAM weren't even used for mining.

You could probably score a better GPU by putting together a more complex build like this, or you might find an even better deal at a different retailer.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example-linka>

The only catch is you have no idea what kind of power supply is actually tucked inside....

This build features a more cost-effective processor—performing right on par with the Ryzen 3600—along with a larger SSD, an upgraded power supply, better RAM, and a superior motherboard. Though, honestly, I'm not entirely sure if there's a better board out there within this specific budget.

You can put together a build on Newegg using an AMD Ryzen 5 Pro 4650G for about the same price as this—minus the cost of the graphics card. But let's be real: you won't get much more out of it than what you had before. You’re looking at performance roughly in the range of a GT 1030. Everything on low settings, and modern titles? Forget about it. They'll struggle.

What GPU is he running now?
I just need to track down a used GPU somewhere. Otherwise, this one is my absolute limit—the next step up in price is already out of reach. $1000.

One Intel Core i5-10400F (2.9GHz, 12MB, LGA1200) boxed.
Part number: BX8070110400FSRH3D
ASROCK B560M PRO4 LGA1200 DDR4 6xSATA B560M PRO4
Code: 4131321
1 * Viper Steel, 3200 MHz CL16, 16GB (2x8GB) kit.
Part Number: pat-vs416g320k-16g
1 * GIGABYTE NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti OC GDDR5 4GB/128bit, 1316MHz/7008MHz, PCI-E 3.0 x16, HDMI, DVI-D, DP, WINDFORCE 2X Cooler (Double Slot), Retail
Part number: GV-N105TOC-4GD
Crucial 1TB P2 M.2 NVMe SSD. Uses Micron 3D NAND. Speeds hit 2300/1150 MB/s. Comes with a 5-year warranty.
Part Number: CT1000P2SSD8
1 * Seasonic S12III 650W Bronze PSU
Code: 0151690
Bottom line: $2178
Total after discount: $1960

P.S.

Forgot to include the case. Just pick one that actually fits.
If they’re really that thick-headed. $33 If you're over budget, just drop the SSD down to 500GB for now. You can always pick up a 2TB hard drive later on.

You could save some cash on the power supply, too. $33 With this.
Power Supply Units (PSUs) – what should you actually look for? Let’s get into it. When you're shopping for a PSU, don't just grab the cheapest box on the shelf at Best Buy. It's the heart of the system. If it fails, it takes everything else with it. The main thing is wattage. You need enough juice to cover your GPU, CPU, and everything else. But more importantly, check the efficiency rating. Look for that 80 PLUS certification. It’s not just about saving a few cents on your electric bill; it’s about heat and stability. Don't ignore the build quality either. Cheap units use low-grade capacitors that will bake themselves inside your case within a year. Stick to brands you actually trust. What are you guys running in your rigs lately? Any specific models that have been reliable, or are we all just praying our power supplies don't turn into smoke bombs?
I went with a slightly beefier unit just in case I decide to pick up a better used card or something brand new down the road—like an Nvidia 3000 series.

Looks like an RTX 3060 Ti is sitting right around $750, which makes it the better move.
Check out Best Buy or PCPartPicker to see what's actually in stock.

https://www.pcpartpicker.com/productsearch/?cp=NVIDIA%20RTX%203060%20Ti

It’s pretty ironic that the RTX 3060 has 12GB while the 3060 Ti only has 8GB, but honestly, I’d still take the Ti if the price is basically the same.

If we're talking about 2015, that's Maxwell. Pascal didn't hit the scene until 2016.
All three Titan X models sport 12GB of GDDR5, but the Pascal version uses GDDR5X X

👍👍
Those prices are for Maxwell. Getting an Nvidia XP or an Nvidia XP is a total steal.

crimsonstag84 said:There's the Titan X (basically a 1660/1660 Super) and the Titan XP (more like a 1080 Ti or a 2070/2070S) 😁

The second one's worth way more, obviously...

Are you talking about the Nvidia Titan XP (the so-called Nvidia XP) or the Nvidia Titan X (Pascal)? 😁😁

Nvidia Titan X is a Pascal Titan, and the Nvidia Titan XP is also a Pascal Titan, just a bit beefier.
Maxwell cards have GeForce GTX in the name and they're weaker (like that 980 Ti you mentioned).

Naming conventions are a total mess, but good call—you definitely need to know which one is which. 😁

Alexander Moore67 said:Honestly, I’d be asking closer to $450-$500... that card outperforms a 2060 and sits right up there with a 2070.

Not sure if she's pricing this based on gaming demand or crypto mining. It might work for both, but supply is thin. Who knows when someone will actually show up on eBay looking for that specific card? Personally, I'd set a decent floor—maybe $400—and then drop it if it doesn't move. Seems like a good window to offload used gear right now. If prices keep sliding, the older cards are always going to be the first to tank.

CDs are useless now. I just grab the drivers from the internet on Windows.
Yeah, whatever. Sometimes they hang, but I wouldn't sweat the drive itself. Just don't wreck the port on your laptop or desktop by constantly swapping stuff in and out. Better to just leave it tucked inside the computer or use a USB hub.

At least $300, probably north of $400.

driftingcanyon2 said:This model is total garbage. According to reviews, the SD card slot is broken, the Ethernet is capped at 100 Mbit instead of Gigabit, and the cable is too short and stiff. Plus, if you want to power anything substantial, you’ll need an external adapter. In my experience, the laptop's USB-C port won't even handle one external SSD, let alone all this junk. Basically, you end up buying extra gear just to make up for what should have been built into the laptop in the first place.

That's exactly why I'm asking for advice—if I knew what actually worked, I would've bought it already...
The specs say 1000Mbit Ethernet. Did you find in those reviews that it doesn't work?
If I need an external power supply via the USB-C port for extra devices, that shouldn't be an issue. I'll just plug it into a better wall charger than my phone one; surely that's enough for an external USB SSD?
Anyway, I'm not even looking at that one because it says it supports either one or two 4K30Hz displays, or three 1080p60Hz ones.
That doesn't tell me anything about whether it supports 1440p60Hz (or ideally 75Hz).

feralmason4 said:It’s not happening. Apple MacBook laptops don't have anything besides two Thunderbolt ports and an audio jack. No card reader, no Ethernet, not even HDMI. Honestly, nowadays they're even stripping Ethernet out of standard PC laptops.

Here's the fix:
https://www.banggood.com/Bakeey-8-in...p-1705441.html
You even get 87W Power Delivery (since laptops that charge via USB-C can draw power through the hub, you don't waste a port on the charger).

That's a bit tougher. A DisplayPort on a laptop is basically ancient history at this point. Just buy a gaming laptop if that's what you actually need. Same goes for having two HDMIs. For instance, a MacBook Pro doesn't even support two displays natively—and why would you care? You have its own screen, then you can just hook up one extra one.
I think you're confusing laptops with desktops.

Thanks for the suggestion, but this is a corporate purchase, so I need a receipt and a warranty.

DP isn't "ancient history" on laptops; they used to come with Mini DisplayPort (which is garbage, like on some Surface devices), now they show up as USB-C.
Whatever, though. I don't care if it's HDMI or DP.
The thing you linked says it supports "4K*2K" at 30Hz. 🤔
Usually, you can find something that does 2x 1080p or 1x 4K at 60Hz.

For example:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B08...5A0M7GSK&psc=1

But this one supports 2x 4K60Hz output (or 1x 5K60Hz). So, one display goes through HDMI, and the other through one of the Thunderbolt 3 ports. (The docking station has 1 Thunderbolt 3 input, 2 Thunderbolt 3 outputs, plus HDMI).

https://www.cyberport.de/?DEEP=1D35-...SABEgIHg_D_BwE

I think that’s exactly the whole point of Thunderbolt—being able to run 2 displays + storage + Ethernet all through a single cable. Otherwise, we wouldn't have moved past USB 3.0. 😁

I don't know much about Macs, but I heard something about some models not supporting dual displays, only mirroring? Luckily, we aren't dealing with those issues.

Specifically, we're talking about an Acer Swift 5 laptop; it doesn't charge via USB-C.
Our main office monitors are 1440p, and the secondary ones are 1080p. Connecting two monitors to a laptop shouldn't be rocket science; people have been doing it via docking stations for at least ten years.

I'm wondering if there's something like this available in the US that I can buy. I haven't had luck finding one, and ideally, I want something cheaper than that Best Buy option since we don't need every single feature it offers.

We could go with a combo of 1 display output plus the laptop's HDMI, but my colleague's HDMI port died after a year of plugging and unplugging it 2 or 3 times every single day. Plus, it's less convenient.

So, any suggestions for that? (Basically 1x HDMI 4K60Hz + Ethernet).

Yeah, basically it's just plug and play on Windows.
50-$33

The laptop doesn't have Ethernet because it's too thin.
I need two video outputs and a general setup where I can just plug in a single cable when I get to the office—basically, "convenience" is the main priority here.
It’s got HDMI, so a dongle with just one video output is an option (needs at least 1440p 60Hz + 1080p 60Hz), but then I lose that one-cable simplicity.

Need some recommendations for a Thunderbolt dongle. My laptop supports Thunderbolt 4, but I'm assuming TB3 dongles will still work fine.

Must have:
2x video outputs (either 2x HDMI or HDMI + DP), with at least one hitting 4K resolution.
A few USB ports
Ethernet

Looking for something budget-friendly but not total junk.
Ideally from US retailers like Best Buy, or maybe Amazon.

Not sure if a standard USB-C dongle can actually handle this setup.

ThinkPad 😁

William Clark86 said:Why don't you just grab a 3060?

The NVIDIA RTX 3060 from EVGA is basically the same price as that ASUS 3060 12GB in the link.

https://www.caseking.de/EVGA-GeForce...plview=desktop

https://www.caseking.de/EVGA-GeForce...plview=desktop

https://www.caseking.de/EVGA-GeForce...plview=desktop

Online reviews say there's a performance gap of about 20-30%.

Sounds good, but they aren't available.

Not trying to butt in here, but you can find Gigabyte models for $1467 around here. It’s got two fans instead of three, if that matters to you.
If you're ordering from Germany, factor in an extra 5% for the sales tax difference plus shipping. That puts yours at roughly $1600.

I assume the guy is ordering from Germany because he lives there.