Posts by wiredotter14

Sean Taylor7 said:maybe I'll grab a better board later since this B460 only has two RAM slots

Is the motherboard proprietary (custom layout) or just a standard one from somewhere like ASUS or MSI?
A B460 chipset in a budget rig like that isn't bad—it's a step up from your H310.
You might not even need to swap it.

Also, is the power supply a standard ATX unit or does it have weird, specific connectors?
You could honestly just swap out the parts and flip the whole PC with the i3 8100 on Craigslist for maybe $100.

dustyowl29 said:The whole damn lot from that link above.

But what’s actually inside the rig versus what’s just sitting on the desk?

Which specific games are we talking about?

Recycling centers, honestly? I don't think they have any actual value at all.

So, for $150 you basically walked away with an i3 8100, a motherboard, an SSD, and a bunch of loose parts just sitting there unmounted?

granitecrane2 said:As for the DVD situation, I actually have an external Blu-ray burner, so that isn't an issue for me. I'm a bit sentimental about my old gear, though—if giving up the old drive is just the price I pay for a modern build, I'll probably just pass it on to someone who actually needs it.
I've got one hard drive that I definitely need to keep using. My motherboard supports two NVMe drives, so I'll be running Windows and Linux (dual booting since I need both environments, and I really don't want them sharing the same physical disk). All in all, I won't be hamstrung by storage space because even my single drive is a 12TB beast, which is plenty for my needs. It would only be a headache if I were trying to set up something like a RAID array, but I've never done that, so I'm not planning to start now.

When it comes to cooling, I prefer larger fans. I'm not a hardcore gamer, so I won't be stuffing a monster GPU into this rig (besides, I can't imagine dropping $1,700$0.00 on those things with how crazy prices are these days). Since the GPU itself won't take up much room, I'll have more clearance for a beefy CPU cooler.

This time around, I'm actually going to focus on proper cable management. I want to route everything neatly so I don't end up with a mess of wires like last time—thankfully, most cables are much thinner nowadays, except for the power supply leads.

One HDD fits anywhere, and finding a case that holds two isn't hard. Most cases have plenty of room for 2.5" drives anyway, if you're looking at smaller hard drives or SATA SSDs.
I assume a Blu-ray drive works for DVDs too. I also felt bad tossing a DVD burner from 2009, but hey, times change.

I think investing in a massive air cooler pays off because they basically last forever. Plus, when a cooler is oversized, the fans spin at minimum speeds and you barely hear them.
I'd recommend Noctua for the quality, ease of installation, and the fact that they provide free mounting kits if you buy a motherboard with a newer socket they don't support yet.
I had an old Intel LGA1366 board, switched to AM4, and Noctua sent me a new mounting kit for free.
I have an NH-D14 that's still available in the US, and it's cheaper than the newer NH-D15 model.
It comes with an ultra low noise adapter (a small cable you plug in before the cooler to cap the RPM at 900RPM) if you really want silence.
https://www.amazon.com/cooling-solutions/index

I'm just not sure if the NH-D14 is old stock and doesn't include the AM4 mounting kit, forcing you to ask Noctua to send it, or if it actually comes with it (if you go with AMD).

The NH-D15 is pretty pricey—maybe a bit too much, since you can get almost any other air cooler in that price range.
But if cash isn't an issue, the NH-D15 is arguably the best cooler out there; you can't go wrong. I think it goes as low as 300RPM. It uses 2x140mm fans, whereas the NH-D14 is 120mm + 140mm.
They have a black version too.
https://www.amazon.com/cooling/noctua-black-edition
https://www.amazon.com/cpu-coolers-lga-sockets

Of course, there are other brands with good coolers too.

Just for visualization, here's a photo of my current setup. Even with the massive cooler, everything fits. The GPU and CPU cooler don't interfere with each other, especially on a full ATX motherboard.



The PSU is a semi-modular Corsair TX650M. It uses those flat PCIe cables, which helps a little. Being modular is nice, I guess, but honestly, it doesn't matter much anymore since most modern cases have a basement to hide all the extra cable clutter.
Here’s my post from a few days ago with the lighting turned on

granitecrane2 said:Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely take that into consideration. Honestly, I always assumed liquid cooling was the reliable way to go, but that point about the pump is a game changer. Plus, I still have to rely on fans to move the air anyway.
As far as price goes, I don't really care if the case costs $267 or $180. My main priority is making sure I don't open the chassis one day to swap out a hard drive only to have some cheap plastic bracket snap in my hands. The case I'm using now was a decent unit from a shop called Ve-Mil that doesn't even exist anymore, but even then, the design was flawed because they used such low-grade materials. I've dealt with cutting myself on sharp edges and snapping brittle, aged plastic before... I am absolutely not doing that again.
So, if going with be quiet! means spending a few extra bucks, I'm totally fine with that.

Liquid cooling is mostly about aesthetics and saving space, unless you're moving into extreme high-end territory or custom loops that actually outperform air. But you only really *need* that if you're running a scorching hot CPU that you plan to overclock (like an Intel Core i9-10900K or something similar).
If you want a reliable rig that runs 24/7 for years, you aren't going to be overclocking much, if at all.
With an air cooler, you're set. There's zero chance of the cooling system itself causing damage, whereas with liquid, you always have that nagging risk of a leak or a dead pump.
Air is actually quieter most of the time. I can barely hear the fans on my Noctua NH-D14, while with an AIO, that pump has to hum constantly.
The worst-case scenario is a fan dying, which you can swap out for maybe 50-$33. With high-quality coolers (like Noctua or be quiet!), the fans are so quiet and well-built they'll run for years without a hitch.

Modern cases have way more room nowadays since everyone stopped obsessing over HDD bays and DVD drives.
Basically, almost any case will have space for at least one HDD that you can screw directly into place without needing a tray.
If you need more than one, you just have to check the specs, but it shouldn't be hard to find.
As for DVDs, your options are pretty limited now, especially if you're looking at those modern glass-panel cases. Those are built for looks and rarely have room for optical drives, unlike the older office-style cases.
Personally, I'd just grab a $100-$67 external USB-C DVD drive and tuck it away. You probably won't use it often, and it lets you pick a much cleaner-looking case.

Case design has come a long way and is probably plateauing now.
But honestly, almost any modern case costing over $50 will be a massive upgrade over the old stuff.

If you're planning on running a machine 24/7, I’d suggest sticking with air cooling for the sake of reliability. A high-end air cooler like a Noctua NH-D14 or NH-D15 performs roughly the same as a decent 240mm AIO, but without the constant threat of leaks or a pump dying on you. It's rare for a pump to survive years of non-stop operation, whereas an air cooler basically lasts forever.
Water cooling—specifically an AIO, since a custom loop is a whole different beast—is mostly about aesthetics and having a "cleaner" look inside the case.

The be quiet! 500DX is pretty overpriced here in the States, but check out the Corsair 5000D Airflow. That's what I was looking at when I bought mine.

I’m running a be quiet! 500DX and it’s solid. My only gripe is my motherboard lacks a USB-C header for the front panel and an RGB header controlled via software, but if you step up to a high-end board, yours will probably handle it just fine.

I’d definitely recommend it.
If the RGB gets annoying, you can just kill it—either through the motherboard software or a physical button.

Check the reviews and see if it actually meets your specs.


https://www.amazon.com/s?k=500dx

Not entirely sure what you mean by "fans for the rest of the motherboard."
The case comes with 3x140mm fans: one rear, one top, one front.
You could swap the top one to the front and put an AIO at the top instead. I think it supports up to a 360mm radiator.

Some cases come with those massive 2x200mm fans in the front, but looking at the reviews, the thermal and acoustic performance isn't any better than just using decent 140mm fans.

darkbadger46 said:Listen, that retailer can't just deny your warranty rights because you don't have the receipt. If the warranty is validated with the payment date, that’s proof enough of when and where the product was bought. Under the Consumer Protection Act, they have no leg to stand on.

Under the Consumer Protection Act, retailers are on the hook for material defects for a full 24 months.
That has nothing to do with the manufacturer's warranty or the commercial guarantee.
Manufacturers provide the product warranty, and retailers might offer an extra extended warranty, but that's a separate thing entirely. A retailer isn't obligated to deal with the manufacturer's mess. These two responsibilities are completely decoupled—one doesn't affect the other. A commercial warranty doesn't strip away your rights under the Consumer Protection Act, and vice versa. If something breaks or shows up defective, the retailer's only real move is to point you toward an authorized service center or directly to the manufacturer. That's it.

Nowhere does it actually state that a warranty card needs a retailer's stamp or signature, unless it’s explicitly written right there on the document itself. Honestly, I haven't seen that required on any new gear in years. When you pick up a blender or a washing machine at Best Buy, they aren't out there stamping paperwork for you. If the thing breaks, you just head back to the store and they either swap it out or point you toward an authorized service center. Simple as that.
Seasonic isn't going to deny your five or seven-year warranty just because Micro Center or Amazon didn't provide a physical signature and a stamp. Amazon, like pretty much any other online retailer, doesn't deal in stamps and signatures.

darkbadger46 said:So, I'm holding this receipt from 2020 that I've just been keeping in a bag. It was actually pretty well protected from the elements, but the ink has already faded so much you can barely make out the numbers.

That’s why it’s smart to make photocopies or scans of your receipts, especially those printed on thermal paper that fades easily. A warranty card doesn't mean much anyway if you don't have the actual receipt to back it up.

darkbadger46 said:Hold on...

I want to get an actual, valid original warranty card that comes inside the box from the manufacturer. And obviously, that same card needs to be properly filled out, signed, and stamped by the retailer (the one selling to the end user).

Do those shops you listed actually operate that way?

By the way, Seasonic is high on my list if I can find the right model.

The warranty card comes in the box, and honestly, there's usually no need to get it stamped. Most decent gear these days comes pre-sealed anyway—you don't just open the box at the store. Your receipt is what proves the purchase date. I’ve never had an authorized service center or a manufacturer ask for a stamped warranty card in my life; stamps are a relic of the past. The receipt is the main thing.
Just give any of those shops a call and ask if they'll fill out the card if you're picking up in-store.

darkbadger46 said:Who's the best power supply retailer in Washington, D.C.?
I mean someone who actually honors manufacturer warranties for 5+ years.

Retailers don't handle the manufacturer's warranty; that's on the brand itself. High-end units usually carry 5-8+ year warranties. Even Seasonic offers solid coverage even on their lower-tier stuff.
Your standard shops like Best Buy or Micro Center are fine places to start looking, then you can check price comparison sites to see where the specific model is cheapest. Just start your search online.

mellowcyclist3 said:Ugh, I was told 4K monitors under 32" are basically useless. At least, that's what they told me.

only a Sith deals in absolutes

wanderingbison9 said:A machine? Like hardware? Or just some slang for a computer... though I think you're messing with me.

Honestly, I couldn't tell if they meant the motherboard or the whole rig. Never heard someone call it a "machine" like that before.

granitecrane2 said:That’s exactly my point: smaller screens can still pack massive resolution (higher pixel density). People keep saying this General Electric 27-inch model is too small because it’s 4K. So what? 4K at 27 inches versus 4K at 32 inches? I’d rather grab the 27-inch than strain my eyes scanning a 32-inch. If you push the monitor back, optically speaking—just draw yourself a frustum, a visual pyramid—it ends up being the same as having a 27-inch sitting right in front of you.

It's just a marketing term for pixels so tiny they act like photoreceptors on a retina—basically, the human eye can't distinguish them.

I already explained why I prefer a 32" setup further away over a 27" one sitting close to my face.

As for the "retina" thing, sure, that matters when you're obsessing over fine details in graphic design or whatever. For me, 1440p at 32" is basically retina quality at my viewing distance. On a 27" 1080p, I can see the individual pixels and it bugs me. My current resolution and size combo is the sweet spot. If I lean in too close, yeah, I see pixels, but that rarely happens.

granitecrane2 said:If you’re going to push it back that far, just buy a smaller screen and move it closer. Draw it out on paper if you can't visualize it.
Then there's the other issue—if you can't see clearly up close, you actually need more distance.

That's not how it works. At that distance, I can actually see everything clearly and fit way more content on the screen. A small screen fails here because the resolution is lower and there's less surface area; you can't fit much. If I move a small screen too close, it strains my eyes. If I move it far enough to be comfortable, the screen is too tiny and everything becomes illegible.

By your logic, I could just grab a 7" tablet with high res and hold it 8 inches from my face.

It's the same deal with a TV. Watching a 65" 4K set from a distance is much better than sitting right in front of a 40" 1080p set, even if the theoretical resolution seems comparable.

Plus, if I need to see something tiny, I can just lean in. I don't have to minimize windows, maximize them, or constantly zoom in.

wanderingbison9 said:I don't find myself cranking my neck on a 32" monitor, let alone a 40" UHD TV when I'm working... hearing people complain about this on forums constantly makes me feel like an alien. 😬

A 32" setup is perfect for me. Obviously, you set it back a bit further than a 24" screen—you shouldn't be squinting at it from 12 inches away. For me, it sits about an arm's length away when I'm sitting normally.

Sure, 4K on YouTube is great, provided you can actually shoot and render at a higher quality than just 1080p. Honestly, the bitrate for 4K on YouTube ends up being similar to what a standard 1080p stream should be, so you get a noticeable boost in quality even if the viewer isn't sitting in front of a 4K monitor.

It depends—depends on what game you’re playing and what kind of frame rate you're aiming for. What’s your monitor’s refresh rate and resolution?

If you’re playing stuff like Call of Duty and you're already hitting 100 FPS, the smartest move would be grabbing a 144Hz+ monitor if you haven't yet. Monitor prices are pretty reasonable right now.

Look, the guy above already told you—jumping from 4 cores/4 threads to 6 cores/6 threads isn't going to be some massive leap, especially since you're running an H310 motherboard where overclocking isn't even an option. Right now, that CPU isn't really hitting a major bottleneck. Plus, the 8600K doesn't even come with a cooler. You’ll have to shell out another $25 or $30 just for a fan, which puts you at nearly $333 for basically zero real-world gain in what you actually do.