Posts by wiredotter14

Michelle Bennett5 said:I mean, clearly there’s a standard design for this; you can find those 110V to 5V adapters everywhere, and I haven't heard of anyone getting fried by one.

If there was even one isolated case of a blood clot following a vaccine, the news media would have blown it up instantly.

Fine, but I wouldn't touch a 120V outlet with wet hands either, even if the odds were one in a million.

Michelle Bennett5 said:zapustiti se malo

There’s actually a safety standard out there—apparently anything under 48V isn't considered a major hazard if you accidentally touch it.

Remember when we were kids and used to stick our tongues on those little 4.5V flat batteries? Just to see if they still had any juice left for the toy train? It was such a weird little thrill, just feeling that tiny little zap... sort of a way to test if a battery was dead or not, I guess.

😁😁😁
True.

But does that assume the adapter is actually working right? What about a surge or a short circuit?

I heard a rumor floating around that Apple might drop a new iMac later this year with a beefier processor—probably rocking 8 high-performance cores, more RAM, and the like.
Yeah, regardless, Intel Macs aren't just "last-gen" anymore; they're basically obsolete at this point.

By the way, Apple still carries them. You can still grab one on their site over in the US.

That’s a whole different ballgame from photo or video editing. You don't necessarily need a high-end pro monitor. I don't know much about the specific requirements for 3D CAD modeling—especially on a Mac—but that iMac $16 sounds like massive overkill. If your software runs smoothly on an M1 Mac Mini (which it probably will), that’s your most cost-effective bet. Do some digging into how those specific programs perform on it, but finding a decent monitor for an architect shouldn't be the issue; I’d suggest looking at a solid 32" 4K display.

Besides, the entire macOS ecosystem is pivoting toward the M1/Apple architecture, which means support for Intel systems is going to dry up while everything moves forward on M1. Personally, I wouldn't touch an Intel Mac if it's meant for work or long-term use right now.

We don't actually know what the specific use case is. For all we know, an M1 Mac Mini might be plenty, and it’ll likely have better longevity with Photoshop and similar apps down the road—plus it costs way less.

P.S. The Mac Pro is insanely expensive. It isn't some budget alternative to an iMac for a comparable setup; sure, you get a higher ceiling for performance, but you pay a massive premium for it.

1) You looking for a different iMac or just a Windows machine?
2) Photo or video work?

wanderingbison9 said:The Dell has 550W, read the specs, man. 😉

Facts.

btw, according to the specs, it's 14kg 😁

An RTX 3070 paired with a 3700X can easily pull 100W more than a 1600X and an RX 580 when you're running at full load. I'm not sure how much overclocking changes the math, but if you're building a pro rig, you don't want to be redlining your power supply—especially when you have no clue what kind of junk is actually inside the unit. If someone's using a Gold or Platinum rated unit, fine, maybe it'll hold up. But Bronze? Honestly, I wouldn't trust it. Those are usually just budget units with questionable components.

Alexander Moore67 said:https://www.bestbuy.com/site/example-link

I’d grab this one. It actually comes with a 650W Gold power supply.

👍👍
650W is fine for those builds. 500W is cutting it way too close—you're basically praying the PSU is high-end enough to handle being pushed to its limit, which is a gamble.

The B550 motherboard isn't a bad thing either. If you find yourself needing more CPU juice down the road, you can just swap in a 5900X. Even if it's an OEM build, it should run just fine.

You could also just toss in another 2x16GB of RAM right away.

wanderingbison9 said:Since we're talking about a 27" 5K setup, I don't think we're really getting into territory that's a waste of time. 😉 Most of the other specs should be pretty straightforward to match up.

The other specs aren't the issue. It's that 27" 5K screen. Regardless of whether you think it makes sense or not, it's pretty unique, which makes finding a desktop with "similar power" a tough call. As far as I know, it's a top-tier display—I don't know much about monitors, especially the high-end stuff, so I have no idea what else would offer comparable image quality.

The real question is which monitor actually matches the quality you get on an iMac, or if there's even a decent alternative out there.
You're kind of drifting off-topic here; better to just start a new thread.

The GPU is weaker, sure, but the processor packs a much bigger punch. Still, I have no clue if it actually fits what you're trying to do. Plus, you aren't hitting 64GB unless you swap out that RAM first.

Price looks fair. You wouldn't hit these numbers if you tried buying the GPU separately.

My only concern is that "500W" power supply. It could be anything, and a 3700X paired with an RTX 3070 isn't exactly low on power draw.

Edit: Just realized this is a Dell Optiplex build. The PSU might hold up, but if I were building this exact setup, I’d go with something beefier.

Adam Moore3 said:All this for a measly $7,999.00.

You can grab an RX580 8GB for just a few bucks $1667.
For more than 7, you're looking at a Quadro RTX 4000, which is less than 1.5x the price of the RX580 😵😵

Cheap laptops are basically impossible to find right now.
This should be more than enough

https://www.bestbuy.com/lapto...m_medium=click

Timothy Kim60 said:What old prices? No new GPU has ever actually had a sane price tag from day one.

There was a tiny window where you could grab cards at high prices, sure, but they weren't those insane miner or scalper rates.

Aaron Evans2 said:I'm torn between the i3-9100F and that Intel Core i5 because I'm on a tight budget.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=i3+10100f

And yeah... the Intel Core i5-9400F costs about the same as the 10400F, which is actually better.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ryzen+1600

gentlemarlin10 said:Thanks again!
Even I get it now.
Cheers.

👍👍👍

btw, just realized VRR for the Xbox Series X is just rolling out (or already here), so you'll need to update the console.

gentlemarlin10 said:Thanks @wiredotter14/">@@wiredotter14.
Since the kid is currently stuck using a 60Hz monitor, I figure he can get his money's worth out of 120Hz, so we'll look for something cheaper.
Can someone explain what "G-sync/VRR should work" means? And also, what's this about "Xbox Series X doesn't have DP"?
Thanks a lot.
lp.

It’s not that the monitor isn't a good deal—it seems fine—but you could definitely hunt for 120/144Hz options instead.

DP stands for DisplayPort. The Xbox Series X doesn't use it because consoles are mostly hooked up to TVs via HDMI. Doesn't matter for you, just make sure whatever monitor you grab has HDMI (which is basically all of them).

G-Sync and FreeSync are "variable refresh rate" technologies that sync the monitor's refresh rate with the output from your PC or console. Google it if you want to go down the rabbit hole. Long story short: it cuts down on screen tearing and stuttering.
I used the term VRR because, as far as I know, it isn't called G-Sync (Nvidia tech) or FreeSync (AMD / open source) on an Xbox; it's just HDMI VRR, even though the Xbox hardware uses AMD.

Bottom line: it should work if the monitor supports FreeSync or G-Sync. It's mostly just a branding difference.
If I were you, I'd just order it online so you can return it within that 14-day window if it turns out to be a dud.