Posts by wiredotter14

driftingcanyon2 said:It’s only a couple of dollars more, so the price is basically the same. In my experience, Western Digital or Toshiba are usually better bets than Seagate. You can also forget that myth about 7200 rpm drives having shorter lifespans. I personally don't buy anything under 7200 rpm; you can actually feel the performance difference once you run some benchmark tests and see for yourself.

Seagate IronWolf is $300, this one is 1000. Not a massive gap, but it's not nothing either.

What kind of speeds am I looking at for 5900 vs 7200 rpm? It'll be running on Gigabit LAN.

Speed isn't really my priority here, especially since those drives cost more. Does running at 7200rpm actually kill the lifespan of a drive faster?

We’re looking at getting a NAS for a small office, most likely this one: https://www.nabava.net/nas-uredaji/s...jena-103775591

Need some advice on 2x4TB drives for a RAID 1 setup, or maybe a different NAS if the price point is similar.

Ideally, I'd grab both from the same vendor, but I'm not picky.

Is Seagate IronWolf any good? Is there anything smarter out there that doesn't cost an arm and a leg $333 per drive?

Michael Hill6 said:These guys are total scammers. Selling GPUs without any warranty for like $750...
Way too expensive for gamers, and no miner is going to touch them if there's no warranty..

Look, I'm actually selling my brother's RX580 on eBay right now—no warranty—and the price jumped to $350 within two hours. It'll probably hit over $450. Miners don't care about warranties; it's basically impossible to find older cards that still have them. As for that $750 price tag, that depends entirely on which card we're talking about...

Sarah Cooper58 said:Thanks, just took a quick look—this looks great. 👍
It's pricier, but honestly, it seems worth it. More practical too.

Supposedly it comes with enough ink for 3 years, though some places say 2.
Is that actually realistic? We don't print much.

Look, you get a decent amount of ink in the tank. Either way, it beats those cheap cartridges that come with standard printers—those things barely last a hundred pages before they're bone dry.

Terry Collins9 said:+Like an Epson EcoTank. I’ve got an Epson EcoTank that cost me $833 and I can churn out a mountain of photos on just one set of ink.

Exactly.
There are cheaper EcoTank options out there too.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=epson+ecotank

That P model is QHD, while the other one is just 1080p. We're talking two completely different leagues here, regardless of how good the panels are.
If you're doing design work or whatever, go for the higher resolution. 1080p on a 24" monitor is fine, I guess, but it feels pretty mediocre when you're staring right at it.
In my opinion, your sweet spot would be 1440p on a 27" screen.

Plus, the P model hits 300cd brightness, which is decent. That other one only does 250cd—pretty underwhelming, especially if your room gets a lot of light.

As for the actual panel quality or color reproduction... I don't know. You'll need to dig up a specific review from someone who actually tested those specs.
Either way, it's going to be a massive upgrade over a twelve-year-old monitor. If color accuracy is what matters to you, make sure to look into how they stack up there.

Can't you just run a cable?

Terry Lewis2 said:In that case, he’d probably be better off grabbing a MacBook Pro rather than the Mini M1. The M1 always presents limitations—specifically regarding RAM and SSD capacity—so it almost doesn't matter if you choose a desktop or a laptop.
He needs a true workstation. Neither a mini or a MacBook Pro quite reaches that level, even though they are certainly capable and fast machines.

The MacBook Pro M1 and the Mac Mini have identical specs—processor, RAM, SSD.
An Intel MacBook Pro can go up to 32GB of RAM, but let’s be real: buying one now is a bad move and a waste of money.

The real question is what you actually need the machine for. These new M1 chips are incredibly smooth; they handle apps effortlessly where even the old 6-core MacBook Pro used to struggle. Right now, the only Macs that convincingly outperform the M1 lineup are the Mac Pro and a fully specced out 27" iMac. But those cost a fortune, and in a year or two, they'll already feel dated as support starts to shift.
Once Apple drops the M2 or M1X chips, we might finally see true workstations again. Until then, I wouldn't drop massive cash on high-end Apple gear. The Mac Mini M1 is "affordable" enough that it isn't a total gamble, and it's likely more than enough power for most people.

If you bought it online within the last 14 days, just return it—no questions asked. Otherwise, you can try filing a formal claim.

Terry Collins9 said:I saw on https://www.gpuminingresources.com/p/psu-cables.html that Molex can handle up to 156W. Still, I wouldn't mess around with it—I'd only power one riser via Molex if I absolutely had to. Right now, my only riser is running off Molex.

Once you actually dig into this stuff, you realize it isn't as straightforward as it looks. There's a "little detail" you really need to watch out for.

Manufacturers explicitly state that SATA isn't meant for risers or GPUs. 😁
https://www.silentiumpc.com/wp-conte...cables-www.png

https://www.adm.com/evga-450w-power-supply/product/
Or maybe this instead of the Fortron.

If you're sticking to a budget GPU like a GTX1050, then this works fine too.

https://www.microcenter.com/product/evga-450w-power-supply/

Adam Moore3 said:1660 Super for $1533 😬

Found a Zotac one for $41 https://www.adm.com/zotac-gtx1660-sup...m_medium=click

🎉 🎉 🙂

We totally hijacked this thread. This belongs in http://www.forum.com/showthread.php?t=332547&page=60

Alexander Moore67 said:If the GPU needs an extra 75W via a 1x6 or 1x8 pin and this thing is bottom-of-the-barrel garbage... don't you dare plug it in!!!

Only 300W on the 12V rail 🤔

When you're modding a BIOS, you really ought to be able to set the TDP right there—and it shouldn't just reset itself on its own. If you underclock or undervolt the card below that threshold, it shouldn't throttle. Personally, I don't think an RX580 with a 110W TDP would have any throttling issues while mining.

fadedorca66 said:I'd say once you plug in a riser, that 50-75W the GPU would normally pull from the motherboard actually comes from the riser instead (which is exactly why those things connect directly to a Molex or SATA connector from the PSU).

Yeah, right. As if.

wanderingbison9 said:Probably because they designed it to be pushed way past stock settings, provided you have decent cooling.😉 The +6 pin is just there to pull extra juice if it needs to maintain the clock speed; it doesn't mean they're constantly drawing full power. And let's not forget that Nvidia has that proprietary automatic OC running in the background on all their cards. That’s exactly why they insist on having both the 8-pin and the 6-pin connected—so they can siphon more power for that hidden OC.
No, common sense and grounding—it’s just those six wires: three hot, three neutral, plus the ground.

The RX580 pulls about 150W (theoretically). My PowerColor Red Dragon uses an OC BIOS that pushes that TDP up to around 180W. Between the 8-pin and the PCIe slot, you're looking at 225W total. If you add a 6-pin, that hits 300W. Personally? I don't see much point in using the extra 6-pin, but hey, if it lets the card suck less juice from the motherboard and raises the ceiling, fine. Whatever.

I'm running them at a +50% power limit, so sometimes they'll pull over 200W.

wanderingbison9 said:Why? We already established those extra +2 pins are just for sensing... trust me, it works. I’ve seen an 8+6 GPU setup running off a single 6-pin connector before. The real question isn't about the connection—it's whether the PSU can actually handle the juice.

Hold on, aren't those +2 pins actually part of a voltage rail? 😁
You live and learn... 🤔

Yeah, depends on the card. Honestly, I don't get why my RX580 even has an 8+6 pin setup, though I guess it might be useful sometimes since it probably pulls less—or basically nothing—directly from the motherboard. I have no idea what happens when you're running six cards and each one is pulling 50-75W through the board...
And I'm not sure if skipping one of those 6-pin connectors actually increases the load on the slot itself, or if the power draw is just hard-coded regardless.

Check if those cards with 2x8-pin connectors actually need both to function. Some cards that come with a 1x6-pin can run without that extra one—meaning just off the motherboard—or when you have an 8+6 setup and skip the 6. Besides, you’re going to undervolt anyway; it shouldn't be pulling more than 150W. We're talking about "edge cases" where that last connector isn't strictly necessary. I'm pretty sure my RX580 would run fine with just the 8-pin despite having the 8+6 layout, and I bet some RX460s could pull enough power straight from the PCIe slot even if they were rated for a 1x6-pin

Elizabeth Adams3 said:Hey,

Looking for mouse recommendations, but nothing strictly "gaming" focused, under $117. I've got large hands and use a claw grip, so ergonomics are huge since I'm on the PC all day for work. At night and on weekends, I game—mostly FPS titles...

What does "not gaming" mean?