Posts by wiredotter14

Steven Stewart3 said:Look, I'll take it slow. If things start lagging, I'll just grab a new CPU ($150 and so on) and an SSD, obviously.

What kind of new CPU actually works with this motherboard?

mellowtiger83 said:There’s zero logic in spending $2,400--$833 on an Athlon ii x4 845 and an RX 460, regardless of which Walmart you're hitting up. You're off by at least $400--$167. Unless you're planning on using the cheapest junk power supply and case imaginable, plus a tiny 500GB drive and 4GB of RAM... even then, you wouldn't pull it off. By the way, just the GPU you mentioned costs at least $317. If you want 8GB of RAM and a decent PSU and case, you're looking at $3,000+. Everything else remains the same.

Anyway, I'm the only one who can build you a new rig with those specs—maybe slightly better for $2,700--$933 as you'll see soon enough at the local hardware store 🙂. And that's rare. Plus, it comes with full US warranties and bundles.

First off, I said $2,500-$2,600. I didn't overshoot by much.
Here, look at this $2,724 configuration. It's a space shuttle compared to what that guy got for $2,400. 😵😵😵
We could have gone with a Haswell Pentium, which would've left a great upgrade path later.

Obviously, it includes 4GB of RAM (can add more once there's cash), because you can still play stuff reasonably fine on 4GB. Then there's the 500GB HDD (the 1TB is pricier, but 500GB is plenty for most things.

Bottom line: now that guy's rig with that R7 360 ended up costing more than my build—which other guys could probably put together even better on a budget—and his is still miles worse.



P.S.

Let me know when you finally build that "special" rig that only you can manage. 😉

Jeffrey Allen92 said:http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/9841963

The CPU is okay, even if it's an old relic... someone should just grab a cheap one...

Look, the processor isn't bad, but saying there won't be a bottleneck? Not gonna happen. An RX 460 would be about right, maybe something slightly better.

mellowtiger83 said:If you already had $667 and were actually thinking about gaming, you should've just grabbed a used rig—something reliable with decent components—and been done with it. No headaches.

To give you an idea, I saw a setup on eBay with a Quadro K2000 card going for $333 paired with a Quad 775 generation system. Google how much that card alone goes for; you'll find some pretty solid deals.

That applies to buying used. Everything else here is just shaky.

For $2500-$867, he could have picked up a legit gaming build (like an Athlon 845 + RX 460 or something similar), which would be leagues better than this junk he ended up with.

As it stands, he's got a processor that can't handle modern titles and a graphics card that costs over $133 but performs like garbage.
Not to mention, the resale value on this thing is basically whatever someone would pay for a cheap cash register PC (so, maybe $267).

The price of some Quadro card doesn't really matter, but yeah, he'd have been better off grabbing a cheap used LGA 775 build, or just getting an older desktop without a GPU and throwing in a used card or a new RX 460.

But hey, it is what it is.

IMO, since he doesn't want to return it—even though he’s totally within his rights to—his best bet is to take some office paperwork, list it on eBay, and just accept that he won't be gaming for a while.

Joshua Chavez28 said:
So $667

then there's that setup Flatron put together
PLUS

a monitor like this

at this price $667you won't be getting a QHD monitor, and pairing an FHD monitor with a build like that is just a crime

I’m not switching machines. This is a completely different PC on the other side of town that doesn't even have a GPU right now. I'm hunting for an RX 460 without a power connector because it's an HP build with zero PCIe or Molex cables available. It's running an i5-2400, so with an RX 460 tucked inside, it’d actually make a decent little gaming rig for 1680x1050 resolution.

edit:

I already have two setups at home with 7850 2GB cards. If I decide to upgrade soon, I'll be looking at something like an RX 480 and a 1440p monitor.

P.S.
It’s not like I’d be looking for a card without a power connector for the same PC that already has an HD7850...

Timothy Kim60 said:Not really. I saw in some reviews that the RX 460 (at least the one with the 6-pin) pulls about 80-90W, while our local HD 7850s hit around 110W during gaming. Pictairn was a solid chip.

Might be worth waiting for the GTX 1050—even if you don't grab that, the RX 460 might drop in price.

Yeah, I know it’s not a massive difference, but my 7850 2GB—overclocked to 1GHz from the stock 910MHz—isn't noisy even with just a single fan. I think an RX 460 with a single fan would be fine too, especially since my PC is in an office where street noise is already a thing anyway.

I'm in no rush. It probably makes more sense to go with Pascal over Polaris if power draw is the main constraint.
The GTX 1050 will likely be way over budget. I was hoping to snag something for around $9, but honestly, I'd rather go with AMD.

Timothy Kim60 said:Giga's got it slightly cheaper over in the admin section.$352)

I don't have any content to rewrite for you yet. Please provide the posts you want me to transform. kaže:
This one really ought to be without the power connector....$367

Review

And this one's supposed to be PCIe powered too? Figures. For less. $317 Gotovina.

So, is there actually any performance difference between them? I don't know. But honestly, I’m leaning toward the first one—those dual fans seem better. Probably quieter and runs cooler, too. 😬

The second cheaper one in the description comes with a 4-pin to 6-pin adapter, so looks like that one has a power connector too. I just need my PSU to have a Molex, but I'm looking at this HP machine that doesn't have anything.

I was expecting something better down there. $333Whatever. Even if it had 2 GB and a single fan, I wouldn't care.
I've got two other rigs running HD7850s. One’s a single-fan model, the other’s a dual-fan setup. Obviously, that Sapphire dual-fan card is quieter, but honestly? Even the single-fan one isn't exactly screaming at me. Still, the 7850 pulls way more power than an RX460. Not efficient.

Anyone got a recommendation for an RX 460 that doesn't need an external power connector? I don't mind if it's just the 2GB version, as long as I can pick it up from a local US retailer.

thanks!

Your call...

Robert Rodriguez2 said:No point in jumping ahead. Let them see how much progress they actually make with an SSD first, then we can talk about potential upgrades.

Exactly. This whole "saving money" thing sounds like a slow hard drive and a lack of RAM to me. Whether a pro card actually helps depends entirely on which specific 3D software they're running and what their workflow looks like. Just guessing here is a losing game.

Steven Stewart3 said:Alright, fine... we clearly had a misunderstanding. I didn't actually sign any contract (I was just asking about the PC specs). My bad on the wording earlier when I said the ZOP was stronger—I just meant it was more comprehensive.
The idea that I could just cancel a contract because I'm unhappy with what I paid for... if that were actually possible, I'd have done it already to grab something better. But let's be real, I doubt it's an option.

🤔 🤔
Since you're a lawyer, you should be able to judge whether that specific regulation actually applies to your situation or not.

How did this "contract" happen? Did you get an offer or an invoice via email, through the mail, in-person at a retail store, or somewhere else entirely (like on the street, at a cafe, or in a garage)? Did you order the parts over the phone or email, or did you walk into a shop and dictate what you wanted?
Did you pay inside the store or elsewhere, and when and where exactly was the receipt issued?

Are those B/W printers or color?

Steven Stewart3 said:check the article regarding mandatory relationship law (sections 376-449)—it actually carries more weight than the ZOP and lists about a hundred different types of contracts. Look under sales contracts to see when one can be terminated. What you're saying is only half the story. No hard feelings.

Man, no offense, but where on earth did you go to law school?
Your take is pretty amateur.

The ZOP clearly lays out buyer rights, specifically the option for a UNILATERAL contract termination for remote purchases. While the ZOO covers a million things, it doesn't dictate whether or not a consumer can unilaterally cancel a remote contract within 14 days. That’s why we have the ZOP, which implemented the EU Directive—which was also integrated via the ZOO. For example, under those rules, a merchant's liability for defects lasts for 2 years for practically everything (meaning those "24-month warranties" people brag about are basically just scraps of paper that offer little to no extra protection beyond what the law already provides).

If you don't trust the law as a lawyer, I guess as a citizen you'll just have to trust the U.S. Department of Commerce.

Besides, this right to unilateral termination doesn't even need to be explicitly written in local law; the EU Directive supersedes national laws, meaning courts have to enforce it. Even if the specific local statute isn't in effect, the EU Directive still applies. Of course, member states implement it through their own national laws because doing otherwise would be a total mess.

BTW, Timothy Kim60

Obviously laws can conflict—we know how the world works—but that’s not the case here.

P.S.

BONUS FUN FACT (article 73 of that same law)

"If the merchant fails to notify the consumer of their right to unilateral termination, the consumer's right to terminate remains valid until 12 months after the initial 14-day period expires."

That's exactly why stores bother putting all that fine print on their websites.

Steven Stewart3 said:Well, look. I finished law school, so looking at this article, it seems you're just cherry-picking the part about what triggers a cancellation. I'm sure the law also lists specific reasons why a contract can be voided (like if the hardware doesn't match the invoice, or if the receipt wasn't signed, etc.). Besides, they didn't scam me—they stated exactly what I was getting, and I agreed to it. Whatever, it's in the past.

Looks like your law reading skills have slipped since graduation.
It’s clearly stated in Section 72, Paragraph 1.

"


(1) A consumer has the right, without needing to provide any reason whatsoever, to unilaterally terminate a contract entered into outside of business premises or via remote distance within 14 days."

That's from the official U.S. Government records here
The 2015 revision didn't change that Section.

Steven Stewart3 said:I don't know. Some guy offered to build me a killer rig, saying he’d order all the parts from Canada and throw in a three-year warranty. Sounds fine, right? But I decided to actually call a local shop instead to see what they could offer. The guy at the store started laying out everything I could get for... $767Still waiting on my PC build, too. Just need to go pick it up now that I've finally unboxed it.

Adam Moore3 said:It honestly breaks your heart seeing stuff like this. An AM1 build paired with a GeForce G210 and claiming "it can run anything modern"? Give me a break. $767". 🤦 It would be great if we could actually slap some real penalties on people like that.

Hold on a second, guys. This guy says he just picked up this PC a few days ago. Sounds like he didn't walk into a store to buy it but ordered it over the phone instead. That means he can easily send it back within 14 days without even giving a reason. It’s called a unilateral rescission of a distance contract, and under the Consumer Protection Act, that's exactly how it works—it protects buyers like him who purchase things remotely and don't get a chance to see what they're actually getting before the deal is done.

The right to unilateral contract termination.

General provisions.

Article 72.

Under the law, consumers have the right to unilaterally cancel any contract made remotely or outside of business premises within 14 days—no questions asked and no excuses required.

Once the sales contract is signed, that deadline mentioned in paragraph 1 kicks off the moment the goods are actually handed over. This applies when the consumer—or someone else they’ve designated (just not the actual carrier)—takes physical possession of the items.

Look, if you ordered the thing over the phone or some other way outside the actual store, you’ve gotta put it in writing—send an email or a letter—telling the merchant you don't want that junk and you want your money back. I'm assuming you kept the receipt.

Which one specifically? If it isn't a refurbished model, there are plenty of cheap ink options for Brother

swiftridge29 said:No clue, I just picked up this rig from a buddy who said he'd probably just swap out the GPU for something better. 😁 Should I be moving the RAM to a different slot or what?

The card you've got in there is decent enough for 1080p gaming; you can run most modern titles on medium settings. Your CPU is actually pretty beefy and could handle basically any GPU you throw at it, but it really comes down to what you need and what you're willing to spend.

A GTX 1060 would be a solid upgrade, though it's not going to be life-changing. It’s just a case of you get what you pay for—the more expensive you go, the less bang for your buck you usually get.

I'd suggest deciding how much cash you actually want to drop on this. You've got a great setup, and if you dropped money on a GTX 1060 or better $767 (or higher), you could probably push for a higher resolution, which is a massive step up from 1080p if you're ready to sink a few hundred bucks into it.

On the flip side, if you're struggling to run specific games on your current card, then just swapping it for something like an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 or similar fixes the issue immediately.

Regarding the RAM, it's likely just a matter of which slots are being used. Best bet is to pop the side panel off and see how they're seated.
Or just pull up CPU-Z and check under the "Democratic Party" tab to see which sticks are in which slots. It's pretty straightforward.

Bottom line... if the games you play aren't giving you trouble, don't touch a thing. I'm running a card in the same ballpark (NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660) and it does everything I need. I've put plenty of hours into Red Dead Redemption 2; it runs great on medium and still holds up fine on high.

Joshua Chavez28 said:
I don't have a monitor yet. Planning to grab one after I get the rig sorted out.

If you're planning on just a FullHD monitor, there's honestly no point in overspending $3333 on the PC. But if you're eyeing at least a 1440p setup, then you better factor that cost in—your build needs to be able to actually drive a screen like that.

swiftridge29 said:Hey, looking to upgrade my rig. Just want to grab a better GPU. Any advice on what makes sense given my current specs? 🙂

Depends on what resolution you're aiming for—sticking with 1080p or planning a jump later on—and how much cash you've got to burn. The guy above posted a solid deal. If you think an upgrade to a higher resolution is in your future, maybe look into a GTX 1070

BTW, how did you end up with 16GB of single-channel DDR3? Did you seat it wrong in the motherboard?

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