CheckEmoji Community · the emoji forum
🏠 Home 🆕 What's new ❓ Unanswered 🔥 Popular 📡 RSS Members 👥 0 online log in · register
Home › wiredotter14 › Posts

Posts by wiredotter14

2114 posts shown.

Is it time to retire my GTX 750 Ti? in Desktops ·
I doubt you'll end up with $167, at that price point you can grab something way better
Upgrading my 2009 PC build in Desktops ·
It should work. I’m 90% sure, and obviously, you'll want it running in dual channel mode.
So, leave those 2x2GB sticks in the black slots, then take that 4GB stick and put it in the other colored slot—specifically the one with the lower slot number.

Here’s how you’d lay it out based on the slot order. Check the numbers printed next to the slots to see which is which.

1) 2GB
2) 4GB
3) 2GB
4) empty

That way, Bank 0 gets the 2+2, Bank 1 gets the 4GB, and everything should run fine.

The only time I've seen this rule fail was once on some weird custom motherboard in a Dell PC, but on any standard board, this setup should work regardless of the manufacturer, frequency, or whatever else.
Is it time to retire my GTX 750 Ti? in Desktops ·
So, what kind of budget are we looking at for the new GPU?
analogtiger19 said:Like I said, my brother and I get our funds seven days after the billing cycle ends. If anyone is actually getting theirs 14 to 21 days later, hit me up via PM. I want in on that "privilege." 😬

Chase offered me a payout around the 9th or maybe the 24th. That’s over three weeks after the period wraps up (mine follows the calendar month)
It's a Mastercard from Chase. My student Visa from Chase hits around the 5th or 6th.
Honestly, I don't care. My paycheck hits at the start of the month anyway. If I'm broke by the 10th, I'm still gonna be broke on the 25th.

You can always try asking them for a better deal if you actually care about that stuff.
Budget PC build - $450 to $500 range in Desktops ·
mellowtiger83 said:It's a decent deal. If you aren't interested in gaming, tell him to pull the 560 out and drop the price to 400$167.

Keep in mind that if that motherboard dies, finding a replacement for that specific CPU will be a nightmare. You might find one, but the prices for that socket are astronomical. That specific CPU alone goes for about 500$233 on eBay
.

If he pulls the 560, you'll have to pick up a dedicated GPU separately—that Core i7-920 doesn't have integrated graphics.

For that amount, it's decent. But since this is an older build originally bought by enthusiasts, I'd highly recommend running a stress test on the CPU right there on the spot.
it really depends on how reliable that 10mbps connection actually is and what people are trying to do with it.

if we're talking 10/10mbps, you could probably stretch one contract across three apartments if the users aren't asking for much.

but realistically, what’s the setup been like so far? was every unit running its own individual router?
Highly unlikely...
Every single contract requires its own dedicated router that plugs straight into a wall outlet.
P.S.

At my place, I’ve got 50m of cable run out, ending at a switch that feeds three different PCs. Everything works perfectly. I’m on fiber, so there’s zero noticeable lag compared to just plugging a laptop straight into the router.

It’s all standard Cat6 cabling and an old AT&T router.
You just plug all those cables into a switch, run one line from the switch to the router, and you’re done. Honestly, three apartments isn't exactly a massive amount of computers. For basic everyday use, standard 100Mbit switches and Cat6 will get the job done just fine.
analogtiger19 said:Exactly. Look at my Amex this month—it works the same way any other month. My billing cycle runs from Sept 13th to Oct 13th. I get the bill around Oct 16th or 17th, depending on when the mail arrives, and it’s due by the 20th. So, if I wasn't paying attention—not that I ever am, but let's pretend 😬—and I put something on the card on Oct 12th, that charge shows up on the bill I get on the 16th, and I have to pay it by the 20th... see what I mean now? 😉

We're saying the same thing... you don't actually pay until a week or two after the cycle ends. Whether the statement hits your mailbox the day after the period closes doesn't really change the math.
Don't confuse the statement date with the actual due date.

For me, my statement closes on the 1st or 2nd of the month for everything I spent last month, but the bill isn't actually due until mid-month.

Maybe someone else has their cycle close on the 15th, but they aren't expected to pay right then either—it wouldn't be due until the end of the month. A credit card bill never hits you immediately after you swipe. There’s always a gap: period > statement > invoice > payment due date.
Budget PC build under $600 in Desktops ·
Athlon chips usually run hotter, but with this specific one, I doubt you'll even need an extra fan Cooler since the 845 uses a more advanced architecture that doesn't soak up heat like the old stuff did.
More importantly, it should ship with a new stock cooler that actually performs better than the usual junk—usually, anyone buying AMD ends up buying an aftermarket cooler anyway.
Look, check this out: you won't need an extra cooler, and while the i3 is technically a bit stronger, it's also noticeably pricier.
http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/amd/athlon-x4-845/4

Some GPUs are going to drop in price now that the Nvidia 1050 series has arrived. Everything is trending down over the next few weeks, so you might as well wait until at least November.
neonpuma7 said:Just a heads up, getting money refunded back to an American Express takes about 8 to 10 business days. No clue why their system drags its feet that long, but just know the money eventually shows up.

Hold on—if you were paying with an American Express, you probably haven't even seen your October statement yet...

Credit card transactions just work differently. It’s never that fast.
Timothy Kim60, watch out with those power supplies. Some OEM boards use proprietary connectors, or you'll at least need an adapter if you're trying to swap in a standard PSU. Those things are nowhere near ATX, especially the small ones.

You guys should really aim for a seventh option or push for a refund if they'll play ball. Those GT730 cards are total junk, and what Timothy Kim60 suggested up there is a much better bet.
analogtiger19 said:https://www.amazon.com/returns-policy ...just scroll down to "RETURNS POLICY - REDUCED PRODUCT VALUE"

That applies to online orders!!!!
Just give them a call tomorrow and ask. The much bigger issue is which low profile card you can actually find at Links.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
So, what’s the actual difference between Rome and unknown?
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
You probably mean the unknown series?

http://www.amazon.com/s?k=corsair+rmx+650w

You don't need anything beefier than this. The RMx is solid—quiet, great warranty—but it’s pricey. Depends on your budget, I guess. You could definitely get away with a cheaper, high-quality unit too.
Advice and help needed :) in Desktops ·
The first build makes some sense, I guess, but you’re probably going to end up with some bottom-tier power supply, and honestly, the whole thing could be put together much better.
That second setup is completely unbalanced.

Hang tight until tomorrow. One of the guys here will give you a recommendation for a local shop that'll build it for free if you just hand them a parts list. These pre-built configurations are always a rip-off for the customer (for instance, they didn't even list the power supply model or a few other things here).

Just let me know—are you paying by card or cash?

Also, are you planning on picking up a monitor and stuff too? What's the total budget, or is this just for the PC? You can definitely play Grand Theft Auto V on a rig that costs less than that configuration.
GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
Some shady hustler 😁

If he’d at least swindled you out of a Celeron or a G1820 for less than $100, you'd be winning. Compared to that AMD, which—as far as I can tell—is a total dead end with zero upgrade potential.