That is the formula used to calculate the daily interest rate. The bank deducts the interest from your account at the end of each month based on your negative balance and the duration of the overdraft. The maximum monthly interest charge you could face is $2.25.
You can actually request the funds from the bank immediately, even before your card arrives in the mail.
No matter what power supply you choose, an Nvidia GeForce GT series card will fit perfectly into that build. It would be even better if that Intel Celeron RAM could be unlocked, or if you could snag an Intel Core 2 on Craigslist for under $67.
Back when my balance was negative, I noticed an overdraft interest charge at the end of the month that hovered around $2-$1.75 per month since my account wasn't completely empty. In any case, if the account stays consistently $333 in the red, the charge shouldn't exceed $2.25 monthly (0.078*1000/12).
AOpen used to make solid power supplies—I believe they were the Delta models—so there is really no reason to hunt for a new one unless this unit starts buzzing or develops some other issue. It's a perfectly fine setup paired with an Intel Celeron G1820 and an R7 265, which is exactly what I would go for if I were in wearymason2's shoes.
If he ends up having some extra cash left over or once he sells off his old parts, he should definitely pick up an SSD.
+ Most of those controllers run into trouble if you try booting an operating system from a drive connected that way. He should just grab a new drive right away—something larger and faster, especially since the price difference is negligible.
Also, if his monitor has a DVI port, he really ought to get a motherboard with a DVI output; the improvement in image quality is massive. He could go with something like http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H81M-...0/index.us.asp or even http://www.msi.com/product/mb/H81MP33.html
I think he’s referring to the left side of this image: http://www.pcstats.com/articleimages..._frontback.jpg One of those five large capacitors has clearly failed or popped.
Personally, I wouldn't mess around with it. You can pick up a working one for $50, especially since LGA 775 processors are dirt cheap these days. If you tried to repair this one, you'd end up spending more money and risking the motherboard, which is likely worth more than those $50 anyway.
In my opinion, the GTX 770 is actually a superior choice compared to the GTX 680, especially since it's more budget-friendly. I truly believe it's smarter to hold out until the new cards hit the market later this year. By December, you should be able to pick up a GTX 860 or a GTX 870 for roughly $833, depending on what the pricing and performance look like at that time.
You've set yourself up nicely; the i3 is a solid little chip. 😬 The power supply included in this spire case will be more than enough for a Microsoft Office setup featuring an E8400 and a GF210, so you don't need to worry about that at all.
As for the cooler, that’s honestly the least of your concerns. It’s incredibly straightforward—just hop on YouTube and watch a few tutorials. Plus, the thermal paste is already applied to the cooler.
For that amount, $1000 you could build an entirely new PC with a full warranty, and honestly, it would outperform what you have now. I’d suggest listing it at $2,500, though even that feels like a bit of a stretch for a site like Craigslist.
Timothy Kim60 said:That logic doesn't quite hold up to me. Smaller components will naturally run hotter because the heat is concentrated over a much smaller surface area.
Just to add my two cents here: we should see lower power consumption thanks to a more efficient manufacturing process—assuming they don't overhaul the architecture entirely, which I doubt given what we've already discussed. This means we won't need such massive cooling solutions. Since the coolers themselves aren't changing, and considering the contact surface between the die and the heat spreader, we're looking at significantly lower temperatures. 🙂 As far as I know, Intel is returning to the old method of applying thermal interface material between the core and the heat spreader starting with Broadwell. This change will likely result in a noticeable drop in temperatures.
A GTX 750 Ti would be a perfect fit for that build. Honestly, I think upgrading to the Ti model is just overkill for this setup. Eventually, you can always pick up a high-quality power supply from a brand like Corsair for about $67.
Look, if that entire latch mechanism has fallen off, it won't necessarily make extraction harder. In fact, it might actually be easier to pull out, though you run the risk of the card slipping since nothing is securing it within the slot. However, you still have those screws and the chassis housing to keep everything firmly in place. Some motherboards don't even feature that specific clip, so it really shouldn't be a major concern for you.
If you have a decent motherboard that supports dual-core processors, you can find one of these Core 2 Duo models on eBay: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P5GMX/HelpDesk_CPU/ for $33, and paired with a card like an 8600gt, you should be able to run older, less demanding games smoothly.
Look, for about 200-$83, you could pick up these specific components from this seller:
or They will bundle everything together and ship it right to you. Since you likely have a lower-end power supply, this little kit would be an excellent investment for your PC.🙂
You’ve got some pretty recent and highly sought-after components here. My advice is to set your prices based on the lowest listing you find on http://www.amazon.com/ minus 20%. If things aren't moving, just drop the price by 5% every week or two until someone bites. As for the best way to clear everything out, you probably have a friend in the States who knows their way around hardware; have them list the parts individually on eBay for you.🙂
Regarding the Core 2 Quad Q6600, I would hunt for the G0 version with the 95W TDP for about $300, max $117. I wouldn't go a penny higher. The E8X00 series is actually quite affordable if you have a compatible motherboard, but since yours isn't, your upgrade path is extremely limited. The idea of a total overhaul isn't bad at all. $800-$850 isn't a massive amount to spend; for that price, you get a decent $100 (CPU/Motherboard) plus $17 per GB of RAM, and you walk away with brand-new components backed by a full warranty 🙂
Robert Rodriguez2 said:People will definitely try to slap an i5 or even an i7 onto a bottom-tier motherboard for $100 🙄😛
Why not? If they aren't planning on overclocking, they don't need SATA 3, USB 3.0, or extra PCIe/DDR3 slots. Personally, I wouldn't opt for anything better than a basic H81 board either.