Posts by Benjamin King2

Just take about 15-20% off whatever your bank statement says you owe.

2.5" or 3.5"? Look, if you’re actually hunting for speed—I mean, you want that 7200 rpm punch—then you pretty much have to stick to 3.5" drives. That's just how the math works.

Check this out: http://www.ditech.at/artikel/GPZ2G18...il_2048MB.html

The GPU clock on this thing is actually way higher than those overpriced PoV cards you see everywhere.

Alright, here’s that thread about BF3 I was talking about. 😁 http://www.overclock.net/t/1151904/b...ual-vram-usage

Look, if that one’s way out of your budget... just grab this instead:

That thing is seriously $267 in that specific hardware setup.

Yeah, I was talking about formatted space—you know, how 128 actually ends up being closer to 119, or 120 becomes 112, more or less.

There’s no such thing as a 128 GB SSD—some of that space is always carved out for error correction and just general housekeeping junk. You’re realistically looking at having no more than 120 GB of actual usable room. Honestly, if you can stretch your budget a bit to grab the HyperX 3k, do it; it’s a step up in quality and significantly faster than those v200 or v300 models.

I wouldn't touch that with a ten-foot pole—though I bet Wahoo would probably find a way to force an SLI setup out of it anyway. 😁

Aero's performance depends entirely on your GPU and its VRAM—your system RAM doesn't have anything to do with it, really. Aero is going to eat up about 200 MB of your video RAM, so if you're rocking a card with only 1 GB of VRAM, that could actually become a major choke point when you're trying to run more demanding games.

First off, you really ought to double-check if your radio can even handle this format—I mean, seriously—so maybe take a quick look at the manufacturer’s website to see what the specs actually say.

My Book series isn't being manufactured anymore—I'm assuming that's why the price has dropped so much.

You can head over to System Properties -> Advanced tab -> Performance, select "Adjust for best performance," and just uncheck Aero Peek (along with whatever else you feel like). Honestly, it’s probably disabling itself because your VRAM is getting absolutely slammed by the game—there's just zero resources left for Aero when you try to alt-tab. Does this happen with every game you play?

There’s also this little registry trick—you’ll want to navigate to the HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT \ Directory key.

Inside there, create a "Restart Aero folder," and then inside that one, create a "Command folder."
Within the Command folder, create a new string value, leave the name as "Default," and then paste this into the Data field:

CMD /C NET STOP UXSMS & NET START UXSMS

Once you've done that, right-clicking on your desktop will give you a new option in the menu to "Restart Aero." You should give it a shot and see if forcing Aero back on causes the game to crash or anything.

I always ran into this issue with Civilization 5—that game just eats every single resource you throw at it.

Yeah, you’ll see it pop up in the bottom left corner of your screen right when you boot up—it usually tells you which key to hit, and most of the time, it's just the Dell key.

You’ll need to dive into the BIOS once that drive is actually plugged in—just make sure you head straight for the Boot settings. You want to set your internal hard drive as the primary boot device and just disable the external one entirely. It should look something like this, with the internal HDD sitting right there as the First boot device:

What’s actually going on with that Seagate drive?

If you want to just grab something reliable, maybe look at these: +

Look, you don't actually need to go hunting for drivers—they should have been included automatically when you installed Windows in the first place. The pre-installed version already comes packed with everything you need.

Emily Ramos35 said:So, the move here is going wireless.

If the batteries actually last as long as they claim—which, let's face it, they usually do—then it's really not a huge deal.
Thanks for the heads-up. I’ll probably head over to Best Buy or just browse online to dig into the specifics before I pull the trigger on one. I’m assuming I could always just plug in a wired keyboard to my laptop too. My main priority is just finding something that isn't total junk—I want something that won't fall apart in six months.

Honestly, you should just pick whichever one feels right under your fingers. 🙂

Regardless of which way you go, you're going to need a USB port. For instance, if you want a solid wired option—something that doesn't have those mushy, shallow keys you get on most laptops—check this out:

Nah, you're looking at a total of just 28A combined on that power supply.

Maria Kelly37 said:Thanks, I went ahead and ordered the Generic. 🙂
Though the guy at the Best Buy was really pushing the Transcend Jet on me—probably just because he had them sitting right there on the shelf. You know, clearance items. I checked the manufacture date, 2011, so I figured that’s why they were marked down. Feel free to correct me if that doesn't actually matter. The clerk claimed customers constantly return the Adata drives because they aren't great and tend to overheat. Funny enough, a different employee told me the exact opposite earlier this morning...🙄

Well, you probably should have waited for the third opinion. 😁 The manufacture date isn't a big deal—an unboxed drive can sit in a warehouse for years and be perfectly fine.

Ashley Chase92 said:but I don't want an external drive like that. I already have a standard external one. I need something I can actually slide into that cooler (once I get my hands on it) so it stays connected to my laptop and I don't have yet another extra gadget cluttering things up.

My bad, I didn't realize the cooler was meant to house the drive itself. 🙈 In that case, you're looking for a 2.5" laptop SATA drive, something like this:

For instance, this one comes with a 60-month warranty:

Keyboard batteries usually last a decent amount of time—you shouldn't really have to mess with replacements for at least six months. Plus, let's be real, wireless setups tend to run about twice the price of your standard wired ones.

Take this one, for example—it’s got a solid built-in touchpad and some actual power-saving tech that shuts things down after about five minutes of inactivity if you aren't touching it: