That’s not gonna fly—you should probably budget for about 40 Amps on the 12V rail for a card like that, especially since it's overclocked. At this rate, the power draw is likely pushing close to what you'd see from a GTX 280.
Take a look at Adata or Transcend drives—they usually come with a three-year warranty, so just make sure you grab one with USB 3.0. And honestly, the laptop cooling pad won't do anything for the drive; the drive has its own housing and you're just plugging it into the laptop via USB anyway.
Look, any drive can die—there’s no magic rule where certain brands are immortal. If you’re the type of person who’s constantly dropping things, then maybe go with something from the Generic Superior series; they have that extra rubberized coating for protection. 😁
Go to Control Panel -> Region and Language -> Formats—that’s where you’ll find the number formats. Just dive in there and swap out the decimal symbol and the digit grouping settings.
Larry Bailey94 said:That’s what I was thinking about paying, but why would it even be cheaper in the first place?
At Best Buy, the prices are identical whether you're using cash or a credit card—but most other shops will give you a discount for paying cash. I mean, whatever, it's just business policy. They get the cash right then and there, instead of having to sit around waiting two or three months for the credit card processor to actually release the funds. It's just how they run things.
Look, at the end of the day, we’re basically talking about glorified laptop speakers here... they're way too overpriced—especially when you consider that for the exact same amount of cash, you could just grab a decent 2.1 system like this one:
Jason Williams2 said:...so when I actually want to log into an admin account—you know, trigger that classic Windows login screen where you type in your credentials using a specific key combo, kind of like how you’d hit Ctrl+Alt+Del back in the XP days.
Yeah, well, that old-school XP behavior? It's just gone in Windows 7.
So, this Arcticov thing is basically just an upgraded version of the Freezer Pro—and from what I’ve been digging through the reviews, the ratings are actually pretty solid.
Look, you can't just download something for free if it isn't actually free—it’s not rocket science. And please, let's not go looking for pirated cracks or sketchy workarounds on this forum.
If you want a legitimate way to test it out, you can grab the trial version right here: http://technet.microsoft.com/en-in/e.../ee390818.aspx
So, did your motherboard finally kick the bucket, meaning you're hunting for a replacement? Just a heads-up—make sure whatever board you grab supports DDR2 RAM, otherwise you'll end up having to shell out extra cash for new sticks too.
I've got two old printers sitting in my office—an HP LaserJet 1005 series and a Xerox phaser 3100 MFP—and I just picked up a new machine running Windows 7. The issue is, when I plug them in, Windows just can't find the drivers anywhere. I tried hunting them down myself, but no luck finding anything compatible with Windows 7; it's like they only exist for ancient operating systems. Is there any way to fix this without just biting the bullet and buying a whole new printer? By the way, Windows recognized my new A3 printer instantly and handled all the driver stuff without breaking a sweat.
For the Xerox, you should be able to grab the drivers right here: http://www.support.xerox.com/support...ingSystem=win7
As for the HP—you might want to try installing the Windows XP driver using compatibility mode: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials...lity-mode.html
If you’ve got the right driver for Windows XP on that disc, you should be golden—no real issues there. What kind of controller are we talking about, though? Maybe try testing the controller out on a buddy's rig to see if it's just your setup?
Four or five hours just to format a single drive?!? Are you kidding me? You should be using the Quick format option—you only ever run a full format if you’re dealing with actual issues, like hitting some bad sectors or something.
It’s highly likely you’ve got a controller issue on your hands, especially if everything seems to be running fine on your USB 2.0 ports. Have you actually installed the drivers for the controller yet? Is the Device Manager looking clean?