Posts by Benjamin King2

Come on, man, go find a larger image—I can't see a single thing here. 😁

Something like this should probably do the trick:

Alright, hopefully that’s enough to get you started. 🙂 That stuff I linked above is available over at Links—you can grab it there if you're using a card—but honestly, if you've got cash on hand, you'll probably score a better deal at some local shop down the street.

Look, there’s no such thing as a two-thousand-dollar gaming card—professional workstation cards are a completely different beast altogether.

The power supply is decent enough, I guess, but if you ask me, it’s way overpriced—there are plenty of cheaper modular options out there (like Corsair, for example).

Jesse Brown90 said:..which one would you suggest that's actually
better than my GT 9800 512??

For $200, you're basically looking at some old 6670 that’s roughly on par with what you've already got.

If you want something that actually packs a punch—something way better for gaming—check this out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/graphics-card-listing-example

They're all just playing games—it’s really only because of some fancy micro-engineering that they can cram more transistors onto a single die. Honestly, the HD 77xx series is bottom-of-the-barrel stuff for anyone actually gaming; if you want real power, you look at cards like the 7970 that sport a 384-bit memory bus. And for heaven's sake, stick to DDR5 on your graphics cards—don't even bother looking at anything with DDR3.

Look, nobody can actually guarantee how long a drive is going to last—it could totally die on you after three months, or maybe it’ll somehow chug along for twenty years. It's basically a coin toss.

You could also just grab this Transcend one since it comes with the same three-year warranty, plus the casing feels a bit more rugged if you happen to be the type of person who's constantly dropping things. 😁

Look, it’s a solid pound, plus you’ve got two cables to deal with—one USB and then that specific power cord. At 20x13 cm, it’s basically the size of a women's clutch. 😁

You can pick any of those, just whatever you do, stay away from Phoenix—they’re charging an absolute fortune for no reason. 🙂 If you aren't sweating $50 spending a bit extra, you might as well grab one with twice the capacity:

Here's the drive I'm talking about: http://www.seagate.com/external-hard...on-hard-drive/

What, are you using invisible ink or something? 😁

driftingbadger17 said:Well, you were the one asking what exactly he’s trying to back up here 🙂
I’m assuming he wants the whole works—everything. And if that's the case, the method I laid out is definitely the way to go...

And honestly, maybe he *does* want everything—whatever that means to him—but there's really no point in cloning an XP drive if he's already running 7. 🙂

What does any of that have to do with what Jesse Green13 was asking?

Jesse Green13 said:How do I run a backup from Windows XP over to Windows 7?🤷

Backup of what, exactly?

So, what kind of specs are we actually talking about here? What’s your workflow even look like—are you just browsing, or are you doing something intense? Do you seriously need a built-in TV tuner or 3D capabilities?

If you're looking at it, this Apple monitor is a solid alternative to the U2711:

Then there's the 3D Asus option:

Honestly, I'm not sure if dropping an extra $1,500 on the U3011 is even worth the headache.

You actually have the newer version—the Dell U2713:

Check out this review if you want the full breakdown: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dell_u2713hm.htm

Tell me which MacBook you’re actually rocking and what kind of ports we're working with here—it changes everything. You absolutely have to go with a Thunderbolt monitor, period. There's just no way you can hook up two "standard" monitors to a MacBook—unless you've got an HDMI port, in which case you might manage one, but that's about the extent of it.

Emily Smith53 said:I was reading somewhere that you... Cheap. That’s all anyone ever cares about these days—just looking for the lowest price tag possible—as if cutting corners is some kind of winning strategy. It’s always "is it cheap?" followed immediately by "why isn't it cheaper?"—it's exhausting, really. Everyone wants the premium experience on a budget bin allowance. So, let's talk about those sketchy USB drives—you know the ones—that claim to have way more gigabytes than they actually do. It’s basically a classic bait-and-switch move designed to line the seller's pockets, and honestly, it's a total scam. They take a cheap, low-capacity drive, hack the firmware so your computer *thinks* it's massive, and then sell it to unsuspecting people. The catch? As soon as you start actually filling up that "extra" space, the drive hits its real limit and just starts overwriting your old files—or worse, just corrupting everything entirely. So, yeah, if you're asking if this leads to losing important documents, the answer is a resounding yes. It's a disaster waiting to happen. Stick to the big brands you can actually trust—think SanDisk or Kingston—and stay far away from those random, suspiciously cheap listings on Amazon or eBay. Don't let a five-dollar impulse buy turn into a data nightmare. 😁

So, let's say you're out there picking up some total no-name junk off eBay—you know, that random stuff that looks decent in photos but arrives looking like it survived a war zone.

Emily Smith53 said:So, you're looking at the difference between 2.0 and 3.0—basically asking how much faster one thing moves compared to another—and you’ve got absolutely no clue where to start? Honestly, don't sweat it; we've all been there, staring at a port like it's some kind of alien technology. The short version is speed—it's all about bandwidth. Think of it like a highway system. 2.0 is like a two-lane road in rural Nebraska; it gets you where you're going, but if you try to move too much stuff at once, things get sluggish. 3.0? That’s more like a massive interstate in Texas—way more lanes, way higher speeds, and significantly less headache when you're trying to dump huge files. Now, as for figuring out what your laptop is actually rocking without having to take the whole thing apart—which, please, don't do that unless you want a pile of useless screws—there are a few easy ways. You can check the physical ports themselves—usually, if you see a little "SS" (that stands for SuperSpeed) next to the USB symbol, you're looking at 3.0. If it's just the standard icon, it's likely 2.0. If you'd rather stay in the digital realm, just pop into your Device Manager on Windows. Look under "Universal Serial Bus controllers," and it should tell you exactly what's running under the hood. Or, you know, just Google your specific laptop model number—it’s probably easier than playing detective with a flashlight. 😬

It’s actually pretty simple—if you look at the ports, the USB 3.0 ones are blue while the 2.0 ones stay black. Just a little color-coded shortcut so you don't have to guess which one is faster.

And seriously—always, always have a backup for whatever you're keeping on a thumb drive just so you don't end up whining about it later. 🙂

Look, just find somewhere with a decent Wi-Fi connection, head over to the manufacturer's actual website, and grab the driver from there.

Double-check that you actually seated it right in the socket. Or just try a different PCI slot entirely. Honestly—if Windows isn't even seeing the hardware, then no amount of hunting for drivers is going to fix your problem.