Look, I’m giving you this advice as seriously as I can—you’re trying to run a fourteen-year-old game on a relatively modern machine when the thing was built to run on an original Pentium I, 32 MB of RAM, some ancient graphics from back in the Franjo Josip era, and Windows 98—and then you actually have the nerve to wonder why you're running into issues?!? Seriously?! And what does the graphics card even have to do with... $167 What's the deal with that Blood stuff?
Jesse Brown90 said:,look, here’s the deal—since I don't have any spare time for gaming or messing around, the little bit of free time I actually find is spent grinding through the classics, because I just can't stand these modern pieces of junk, so the other night I finally sat down with Blood 2 (obviously after finishing off Half-Life), and now my GPU is starting to screw with me for the first time because my weapons are constantly twitching like Caleb has a case of Parkinson's. People on the forums are claiming it's because the FPS is too high and I need to cap it at 60, (but honestly, the core issue is with Nvidia cards—their stuff acts up while ATI users don't seem to have these headaches. What am I supposed to do now? It's pure frustration when the hands of a legend start shaking and completely ruin the immersion, and you’ve definitely played Blood, so you know exactly what I'm talking about...
Just grab some used piece of junk for $67 and play those prehistoric games on that.
quietnomad4 said:thanks, I think I'll try overclocking it, or maybe I'll just drop another 200 bucks$83 for a different CPU... any thoughts? got any recommendations from this list if possible😢http://www.gigabyte.com/support-down....aspx?pid=2669)
The only thing actually worth your money right now is a solid cooler—something you can actually repurpose later on a newer Intel platform, and it'll give you the headroom you need for overclocking in the meantime.
Jesse Brown90 said:the rest—four gigs of RAM and a Pentium 3.0 dual, plus a 550w PSU, and then there's the whole "do I even need something better" question because my current 9800 absolutely crushes anything else out there right now I'm asking because honestly, I can't navigate this tech jungle anymore—back in my day, it was simple: you had two cards on the market, ATI or Nvidia, one clearly better than the other, and you'd grind for months just to afford them—plus, those high-end ATI and Nvidia cards in the reviews were basically just things you stared at in magazines, surrounded by some pathetic, greasy-haired techno-freaks writing worshipful copy about them...
If you actually want an upgrade for that GPU of yours, look at something like a GTX 560 or a Radeon 7770, which will run you upwards of $333, so honestly, just milk that current card until it dies—you aren't getting much for cheap these days.
quietnomad4 said:the CPU is an Intel Celeron E1400 @ 2.00GHz with a 400W PSU
You really ought to overclock that processor to at least 3 GHz—it should be pretty straightforward since those chips handle overclocking well enough—otherwise, you won't be able to actually utilize that card fadedorca66 mentioned, or maybe grab an Nvidia GT 9600/9800.
Jesse Brown90 said:I'm looking for what's actually hitting hard right now—you know, that mid-range sweet spot where you get actual gaming performance without paying for the overkill stuff. Not the absolute top tier, just the cards that can actually hold their own in a fight.
The mid-range is usually sitting around the $333 mark. What else are we working with in terms of the rest of the build?
quietnomad4 said:Not sure about the CPU—I think it might be two single-core chips shoved in there (I'll double-check tonight and let you know)
😁Yeah, no—you can't have two single-core processors on one board. Take a look and tell me exactly what kind of processor you're running.
Are you absolutely sure you actually fired up the Task Scheduler? That "remote computer not found" error is basically the system's way of throwing a tantrum because the Task Scheduler service isn't running—it’s pretty much a given at this point. You should probably dive into the registry and hunt down the key HKLM -> system -> CurrentcontrolSet -> Services -> Schedule—once you're there, check the right-hand panel; the Start value really ought to be set to 3.
It depends—some of those drives are still stuck on the old USB 2.0 interface, while others have moved up to 3.0. I’m a bit lost here—you can't exactly plug in a hard drive without a cable, right? Just pull up your Device Manager and head over to the Universal Serial Bus controllers; if you're running USB 3.0, it’ll be clearly labeled there. Usually, the ports themselves are blue anyway, which is a dead giveaway. They aren't any good—honestly, just scroll back through the last two pages of this thread and you'll see what I mean.
Sure, it could be a dud, but honestly, it shouldn't be acting up at an overclock this low—it just doesn't make sense. You might want to dig up some reviews for that specific board; there’s usually some weird quirk or a hidden setting in the BIOS that messes things up.
Some motherboards are just built to brick themselves the second you tweak a single setting in the BIOS—it’s honestly ridiculous. If the system boots up fine initially, you should technically be in the clear, but still... questionable. Just set the RAM to auto since you basically have zero actual control over the tuning anyway.
1. Maybe try bumping up the CPU voltage just a hair—the RAM shouldn't be giving you grief since you haven't overclocked it, unless you went overboard with some insane latency settings or something.
2. Just head over to Advanced -> Jumperfree configuration -> DRAM Frequency; that's where you can tweak the RAM clock.
You’re probably going to have to hit up Craigslist—honestly, any of those low-end cards sitting on shelves right now, like an HD 3450 or an Nvidia FX 5200, are actually a step down from what you’ve got. If you can swing about 200-$83, you should be able to hunt down something with some actual teeth—think along the lines of an x1950 or an Nvidia 7600 gt.
Based on what he said, that laptop is probably somewhere in the 4-to-5-year-old range—which basically means it’s ancient—so don't expect it to run anything decent, regardless of which OS you throw at it.
Yeah, I’ve got the 6Gv2 myself. Honestly, you should probably just scroll back up and check out that link I dropped in post #3—it’s loaded with a ton of actually useful info regarding mechanical keyboards.
If you're looking for an all-rounder—something that won't make you regret your life choices during a workday—you’ve got the 7G and the 6Gv2 to choose from. Everything else is pretty much built strictly for gaming. Also, if you're one of those people who actually needs a palm rest, the 7G is basically your only real option.
Look, if you wanted to go out and grab a brand-new LED monitor in that same size range today, you’re looking at roughly $250. So, honestly—do the math yourself—how much would you actually be willing to shell out for a used one that's already about four years old?