Posts by Benjamin King2

That printer actually has a built-in flash drive—can't you just disable it in the boot order?

I wouldn't aim for 1000, but honestly, hitting that 400-500 range would be the sweet spot. Let's face it—your case is probably going to outlive every other single component in your rig—so it’s just common sense to shell out a little extra upfront to get something decent.

If you push the clock speeds a little, you're looking at at least a 30% bump over the AMD Radeon HD 3850—not that there's much of an alternative anyway for $167. 🤷

http://www.techspot.com/review/240-a...670/page8.html

Look, you can't just mash together different series of cards like that—it's a bad idea. You're better off grabbing something like this instead:

There’s honestly no reason why you wouldn't just go ahead and install the 64-bit version of Windows 7.

Just cover the whole thing in those cheap little fridge magnets—if there isn't a dedicated degauss button somewhere, you might just wreck the screen enough to force them to hand over a brand-new monitor. 😁

I honestly haven't heard of any tools that can actually do that.

Honestly, it was worth it just to deal with that Vista service pack mess... if you want the only real, reliable way to handle this, you should use the DISM tool to wipe out those old file backups from before you installed SP1. Just fire up an elevated command prompt and type in:

dism /online /cleanup-image /spsuperseded

I make a habit of running that right after I finish installing SP1—it usually clears out about 2 to 4 GB of backup junk, depending on how your system is configured and what updates you've got hanging around. Whatever you do, don't go using those random third-party "cleaner" apps; there's a massive chance they'll just end up breaking something important.

Right now, Intel is definitely leading the pack when it comes to raw performance—though you’ll be paying a premium for it... honestly, though, whatever path you choose, it's going to feel like a SpaceX rocket compared to that old junker you're running. 🙂 All these builds are pretty much in the same ballpark anyway—there aren't any massive gaps between them... and hey, if you find yourself needing a beefier graphics card down the road, you can always just slap one in later.

Everything eventually lands on my desk... once in a while. 😛

neonseal55 said:And what happens if the integrated graphics on my motherboard finally gives up the ghost? Would I be able to just pick up a dedicated graphics card and have everything running smoothly again—or would I be stuck having to buy an entirely new motherboard?

Look, I’ve been digging through hardware for over 20 years now—honestly, probably more than I care to admit—and I have yet to see someone deal with onboard graphics just giving up the ghost. And even if you did run into that kind of bad luck? Well, if the chipset goes, you're basically looking at a new board anyway. 🙂

neonseal55 said:Thanks, but I’ve always operated under the logic that a power supply shouldn't just be an oversized beast compared to everything else—it needs to be in sync with the rest of the build. In my mind, if the PSU is way too powerful for the components it's feeding, it might actually end up choking them or causing some kind of imbalance... though, honestly, I'd love to hear from someone who knows more about the technical nuances of this than I do. 🙂

One more thing—I really couldn't care less about aesthetics. You could give me a case that looks absolutely hideous, as long as it's efficient and keeps the components running smoothly.

Look, the power supply's only job is to provide juice. The components will pull exactly what they need from it. If your parts are pulling 200W, it doesn't matter at all whether you're running a 300W unit or a massive 1000W beast.

How about something like this...

Case: CoolerMaster elita 360, mini tower 290,00
Power Supply: Corsair CMPSU-430CXV2EU, 430 W 330,00
Motherboard: ASUS P8H61-M 581,00
Processor: Intel Pentium G620, 2.6 GHz 488,00
RAM: Corsair CMV4GX3, 1333 MHz, 2x2 Gb 245,00
Hard drive: WD Caviar Blue WD10EALX, SATA III, 32 mb cache, 1000 Gb 440,00
DVD: Sony Optiarc AD-AD-7260S 150,00

$841 - http://www.newegg.com/

Since you aren't gaming, there’s really zero need for a dedicated graphics card—the integrated graphics on the motherboard will be more than enough for whatever you're doing. I included a decent power supply, and the case is pretty handy because it's compact—you can stand it up or lay it flat on your desk to use as a monitor stand if you're feeling creative. With a solid dual-core processor, 4 GB of RAM, and a 1 TB hard drive, nothing should overheat or start making noise, and the power draw is minimal...

So, did the system actually recognize the card and finish installing the driver, or is the TV app just refusing to cooperate?

Brian Miller74 said:Do I really have to? :S

Just let Mom tell the "Master" to come over and fix that up—don't even ask how she'll phrase it. 🙂

Just go out and buy some genuine Windows.

You could always try dialing back the fan speed a bit if the noise is driving you crazy—it won't hurt the card at all if the temps run about 5-6 degrees higher than they are now.

Idle basically means you aren't doing anything at all—it's just sitting there—whereas load is what happens when you actually put that card to work... So yeah, temperatures look fine to me.

It’s all right there in that link I posted above.

To make a Netflix production, you’d need actual bricks, a camera, and some editing software—but this supposed "app for making Lego movies"? I have no clue what that’s actually meant to be. 🙂