I mean, seriously... If that were actually possible, anyone could just break into your email or Facebook account whenever they felt like it. This isn't some game.
If he didn't save his password and hasn't even logged into that email in years, there's a good chance he never bothered to set up any of those secondary security options, like using a smartphone for recovery. And if he didn't do that either, then he's pretty much out of luck...
I haven't been able to find a straight answer explaining this error anywhere. There are way too many potential causes and almost zero practical ways to actually fix it. Basically, you need an expert who knows their stuff—someone willing to dig through a million tiny details just to figure out where it all went wrong.
One thing I noticed is that most of the reports about this specific issue seem to be old, coming from people running outdated operating systems like Windows XP. Honestly, there’s no point in you listing your entire hardware configuration and software setup here. Usually, that's what we'd ask for to help you out, but at this distance, there's a 99.999% chance we won't be able to solve anything remotely.
Regarding your files: you can usually pull the drive out of any machine and plug it into another computer to grab everything, provided the drive itself hasn't completely died on you. Even if the drive is toast, there are ways to attempt data recovery, whether you try using specialized software or take it to the pros (I personally lean toward the pros) if those files are actually important to you.
Professional data recovery used to be insanely expensive, but even now, it's not always a massive hit to the wallet. It really just depends on how much those files matter to you.
Just take it one step at a time. First, find someone who can pull the drive and try reading it on a different PC. Once you've done that and managed to save your data, then someone can start poking around to figure out what actually broke and what the next move should be.
It’s probably buried in your router's security settings. Most routers either have a physical button you need to hit to allow new devices to join, or you have to toggle a setting in the dashboard to start looking for new clients. It's basically a registration mode. They don't leave it on all the time because this isn't a public Starbucks Wi-Fi; if it were always open, anyone could jump on your connection.
Plus, some routers have an option to hide their SSID entirely. If that's turned on, the network stays "invisible," so new devices won't even see it exists until you go into the settings and broadcast it.
Overclocking isn't even on the table here, so there's really no point questioning the motherboard, the PSU, or the cooler... it's just too much unnecessary noise.
Looks like I'll be sticking with a GTX 1060 for now, then eventually swapping out the whole platform and upgrading the CPU down the road.
Yeah, she's right. He thought he was going to make a killing with it, but honestly, I'm not an expert on this stuff, so I figured I'd just ask. I think the RX 580 is asking way too much cash, and the processor is definitely going to bottleneck it.
A buddy of mine wants to grab a new GPU, but honestly, I don't think he's making the smartest move here. He’s mostly playing mainstream games, whereas I just stick to Solitaire. 🃏 My current PC build is an AMD Athlon x6 6100, 8 GB of RAM, an SSD plus a hard drive, and a decent power supply. He's looking to spend maybe $100–$120. Probably going to pick it up at Best Buy.
So, given the specs, what actually makes sense? Should he just grab an RX 560, or is it worth stretching the budget a bit more—and if so, for what? Also, how much sense does a GTX 1050 Ti even make if the cheapest one at Best Buy is sitting around $150?
The link isn't working right now, but they’re aware of it over at Lincoln. Just grab a DVI-D cable for the monitor—but honestly, check if one's already included in the box first.
I remember when Dell monitors used to actually include cables in the box—and I mean two of them, mind you. You'd get both VGA and DVI. That was back in the day, anyway. I’m not sure what their current policy is, but if you're heading down to Best Buy, definitely double-check the specs before you drop the cash.
A DVI-D cable (with the same connector on both ends) will fit perfectly into a DVI-I port on your graphics card, so that's the one you need.
I'm not really following why this is off-limits. If what you're saying is true—that you aren't out here trying to bash people for no reason—then where's the issue? If it's perfectly fine and acceptable to share your shopping experiences and actually name the stores you visited, why would this be any different?
I don't have enough experience to weigh in on your second question, so I’d just stick to logic like you're doing. What you should do right now is save two or three different versions from the original files. Storage isn't exactly breaking the bank these days, so it gives you some much-needed peace of mind.
you'll see that the most important factor is actually which projector you're using and what its specs are—basically, what the damn thing can actually support. If you know those limits, just tailor the resolution, quality, and file size to match the projector's requirements.