Gaming/Work PC build under $700
in Desktops ·
BTW, is your handle just random, or are you actually a fan of coastalowl58 and ska?
Posts by darkowl72
1354 posts shown.
Printer issues?
in Computer Peripherals ·
@ swiftowl14:
Buying used printers is a gamble; you never know how many thousands of pages they’ve already choked through. Modern printers—even copiers—are basically junk because they're packed with cheap plastic components specifically engineered to fail. I’ve seen dozens of machines rendered useless just because some tiny plastic gear stripped, the paper rollers got worn down, or a rubber belt stretched out. Honestly, I’ve personally tossed three of my own printers in the trash because they were beyond saving...
And when you put laser versus inkjet head-to-head, it gets ugly. Laser tech has become dirt cheap, while inkjets have tried to stay relevant by using those massive refillable ink tanks. If you're only printing small batches—say 200, 300, or even up to 1,000 pages a month—don't obsess over the cost per page of toner or ink. That math only matters when you're printing massive volumes where a fraction of a cent makes a difference. For your volume, focus on other stuff: reliability, connectivity, duplexing, etc...
If you go a week or two without printing anything, an inkjet is begging to have its nozzles clog, whereas lasers don't deal with that headache. Also, if you're using a wireless router like most people do today, a laser is usually the better bet since it has a proper network interface. You can set it up as a network printer and print from pretty much anything, wired or wireless. These inkjets usually just have USB and Wi-Fi, meaning you're mostly stuck printing from one computer or relying on the Wi-Fi connection. Often, you can't even use both interfaces at once.
Bottom line: for your workload, I suggest option number one.
As for the ink, you're looking in the wrong places. It's available here in the States if you actually look, and obviously, Amazon and eBay are loaded with it:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...son+m105&rt=nc
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ack+epson+m105
http://www.staples.com/ink-for-epson...-black-original
Buying used printers is a gamble; you never know how many thousands of pages they’ve already choked through. Modern printers—even copiers—are basically junk because they're packed with cheap plastic components specifically engineered to fail. I’ve seen dozens of machines rendered useless just because some tiny plastic gear stripped, the paper rollers got worn down, or a rubber belt stretched out. Honestly, I’ve personally tossed three of my own printers in the trash because they were beyond saving...
And when you put laser versus inkjet head-to-head, it gets ugly. Laser tech has become dirt cheap, while inkjets have tried to stay relevant by using those massive refillable ink tanks. If you're only printing small batches—say 200, 300, or even up to 1,000 pages a month—don't obsess over the cost per page of toner or ink. That math only matters when you're printing massive volumes where a fraction of a cent makes a difference. For your volume, focus on other stuff: reliability, connectivity, duplexing, etc...
If you go a week or two without printing anything, an inkjet is begging to have its nozzles clog, whereas lasers don't deal with that headache. Also, if you're using a wireless router like most people do today, a laser is usually the better bet since it has a proper network interface. You can set it up as a network printer and print from pretty much anything, wired or wireless. These inkjets usually just have USB and Wi-Fi, meaning you're mostly stuck printing from one computer or relying on the Wi-Fi connection. Often, you can't even use both interfaces at once.
Bottom line: for your workload, I suggest option number one.
As for the ink, you're looking in the wrong places. It's available here in the States if you actually look, and obviously, Amazon and eBay are loaded with it:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...son+m105&rt=nc
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ack+epson+m105
http://www.staples.com/ink-for-epson...-black-original
Gaming setup recommendations?
in Computer Peripherals ·
You can grab a combo pack like this one:
Otherwise, just browse through Best Buy's selection of mice and keyboards. They have a massive variety, so you'll definitely be able to put something together that works for you.
Otherwise, just browse through Best Buy's selection of mice and keyboards. They have a massive variety, so you'll definitely be able to put something together that works for you.
Printer issues?
in Computer Peripherals ·
Raymond Adams48 and Kate Myers51, look, it’s simple. That’s just the fundamental flaw with inkjet technology. For a decent print, you need tiny droplets created by micron-sized nozzles. Once that ink hits the paper, it needs to dry fast—which means it dries on the nozzle, too. End of story. You can't clean out a hole that small without messing up its shape or size...
If you go with an inkjet, you have to print a color page every few days just to keep things moving. It's a total waste of ink, and let's be honest, ink is ridiculously expensive.
The move is a black and white laser with toner. Since it uses powder, nothing dries up. It melts onto the paper with heat and can sit in the tray for months without any issues. If you actually need something in color, just throw it on a USB drive, head to a local print shop, and pay what it costs. It'll definitely be cheaper than tossing a printer or constantly buying overpriced cartridges...
The catch is that color laser MFPs are pricey, so they don't make sense if you rarely print. You solve this by getting a cheap B&W laser printer and a basic scanner. Honestly, you can probably skip the scanner entirely; everyone has a smartphone these days that takes perfectly fine photos of documents, and getting those files onto your PC is easy enough...
That's why even the most budget-friendly B&W laser printer will do the job. You can find them at Kroger, Walmart, 7-Eleven, or Metro... They often run crazy good deals there, and a printer is a printer—it carries a warranty regardless of where you picked it up...
This Canon is a solid example of a B&W laser MFP that even includes fax. Or you could grab this Canon which skips the fax but adds Wi-Fi. Color MFPs are more of an investment, like this unknown.
You can find B&W MFPs under $100 here:
And standard B&W lasers are:
Samsung printers are among the affordable options:
Since Samsung developed their own printing language called SPL, they don't have to pay royalties for Adobe PostScript or HP PCL. You might also see a GDI label, which stands for Graphics Device Interface—something Microsoft developed that's built into all Windows systems. Basically, GDI printers are cheaper because the computer handles the heavy lifting of processing the print job, so the printer doesn't need its own high-end processor or complex page description language. Anyway, I'm just answering the question "What's the difference between SPL and GDI?" before someone inevitably asks...
I should also mention Epson so they don't feel left out 😬
There are also Kyocera, Xerox, Brother, Lexmark... and others. All of them are great for light workloads.
http://www.nabava.net/pisaci__110?&se=1698
Which one should you grab? If you're splurging on a high-end machine, just hunt around on sites like Amazon to find the absolute best deal. But if you're looking for something budget-friendly, honestly, just pick it up at a local shop like Best Buy or Walmart. You don't want to waste money on shipping for something as fragile as a printer. Also, do yourself a favor: check what the toner costs at your local stores or repair shops first. You don't want to get ripped off by some overpriced $333 cartridges later. Definitely ask if there are any third-party toners available that are cheaper than the originals but still decent quality. If there’s a specialized toner shop nearby, great. If not, you might have to choose your printer based on how easy it is to actually find toner for it...
Most places carry third-party toners, though some big retailers won't sell them because of those annoying exclusive contracts they have with the manufacturers. That's why specialty shops exist:
https://www.google.com/search?client...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
And before I forget, if anyone is looking for a scanner, you can find basic ones starting around $40-$$167. For just scanning an occasional document or receipt, any cheap one will do fine. If you need to do more heavy-duty scanning, we'd need to look at your specific requirements to pick the right model.
http://www.nabava.net/skeneri__450?&se=12394
If you go with an inkjet, you have to print a color page every few days just to keep things moving. It's a total waste of ink, and let's be honest, ink is ridiculously expensive.
The move is a black and white laser with toner. Since it uses powder, nothing dries up. It melts onto the paper with heat and can sit in the tray for months without any issues. If you actually need something in color, just throw it on a USB drive, head to a local print shop, and pay what it costs. It'll definitely be cheaper than tossing a printer or constantly buying overpriced cartridges...
The catch is that color laser MFPs are pricey, so they don't make sense if you rarely print. You solve this by getting a cheap B&W laser printer and a basic scanner. Honestly, you can probably skip the scanner entirely; everyone has a smartphone these days that takes perfectly fine photos of documents, and getting those files onto your PC is easy enough...
That's why even the most budget-friendly B&W laser printer will do the job. You can find them at Kroger, Walmart, 7-Eleven, or Metro... They often run crazy good deals there, and a printer is a printer—it carries a warranty regardless of where you picked it up...
This Canon is a solid example of a B&W laser MFP that even includes fax. Or you could grab this Canon which skips the fax but adds Wi-Fi. Color MFPs are more of an investment, like this unknown.
You can find B&W MFPs under $100 here:
And standard B&W lasers are:
Samsung printers are among the affordable options:
Since Samsung developed their own printing language called SPL, they don't have to pay royalties for Adobe PostScript or HP PCL. You might also see a GDI label, which stands for Graphics Device Interface—something Microsoft developed that's built into all Windows systems. Basically, GDI printers are cheaper because the computer handles the heavy lifting of processing the print job, so the printer doesn't need its own high-end processor or complex page description language. Anyway, I'm just answering the question "What's the difference between SPL and GDI?" before someone inevitably asks...
I should also mention Epson so they don't feel left out 😬
There are also Kyocera, Xerox, Brother, Lexmark... and others. All of them are great for light workloads.
http://www.nabava.net/pisaci__110?&se=1698
Which one should you grab? If you're splurging on a high-end machine, just hunt around on sites like Amazon to find the absolute best deal. But if you're looking for something budget-friendly, honestly, just pick it up at a local shop like Best Buy or Walmart. You don't want to waste money on shipping for something as fragile as a printer. Also, do yourself a favor: check what the toner costs at your local stores or repair shops first. You don't want to get ripped off by some overpriced $333 cartridges later. Definitely ask if there are any third-party toners available that are cheaper than the originals but still decent quality. If there’s a specialized toner shop nearby, great. If not, you might have to choose your printer based on how easy it is to actually find toner for it...
Most places carry third-party toners, though some big retailers won't sell them because of those annoying exclusive contracts they have with the manufacturers. That's why specialty shops exist:
https://www.google.com/search?client...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
And before I forget, if anyone is looking for a scanner, you can find basic ones starting around $40-$$167. For just scanning an occasional document or receipt, any cheap one will do fine. If you need to do more heavy-duty scanning, we'd need to look at your specific requirements to pick the right model.
http://www.nabava.net/skeneri__450?&se=12394
My SD card just died. Help!
in IT Support ·
Just check these out if you don't want to get ripped off:
Which PSU should I buy?
in Desktops ·
Store? Money?
If you have a Best Buy nearby, maybe check out something like this: http://www.bestbuy.com/product...details
Or maybe Micro Center: http://www.microcenter.com/product_info.php?c...ducts_id=15157
If you have a Best Buy nearby, maybe check out something like this: http://www.bestbuy.com/product...details
Or maybe Micro Center: http://www.microcenter.com/product_info.php?c...ducts_id=15157
Where did my JPEGs go?
in IT Support ·
I wasn't just talking nonsense. I mean, props to the guy for trying, but he's under the delusion that he actually saved the photos. All he did was save the filenames—he basically just recreated empty directory headers instead of copying the actual data. That’s why they all have the exact same timestamp...
There's no fixing this once the files are empty.
I'm not going to keep repeating myself; just go back, read my previous post, and take my word for it...
There's no fixing this once the files are empty.
I'm not going to keep repeating myself; just go back, read my previous post, and take my word for it...
How many fans does the Zalman R1 take?
in Desktops ·
Eric Brown78 said:What should I actually look for when buying a 120mm fan?
Thanks for the help earlier.
Look at the build quality. 😬
Honestly, you don't even need more than three...
Looking for some advice before buying a new PC
in Hardware ·
Your PSU options really just depend on what's actually in stock at the store you're hitting up... If we're looking at that ADM build, I'd suggest something like this:
Fractal Edison m 550 w, 80PLUS GOLD, modular, $257
Fractal Edison m 650 w, 80PLUS GOLD, modular, $286
As for RAM, if you're doing photo editing, you can never have too much. Every program is designed to chew through it, and the more you have, the less the system has to rely on those slow scratch files on your drive. RAM is pretty cheap right now, so bumping things up to 2x8GB isn't a bad call...
Fractal Edison m 550 w, 80PLUS GOLD, modular, $257
Fractal Edison m 650 w, 80PLUS GOLD, modular, $286
As for RAM, if you're doing photo editing, you can never have too much. Every program is designed to chew through it, and the more you have, the less the system has to rely on those slow scratch files on your drive. RAM is pretty cheap right now, so bumping things up to 2x8GB isn't a bad call...
Gaming/Work PC build under $700
in Desktops ·
Thanks, Kimberly Gomez34... at least someone’s actually on my side here.. 😬
Gaming/Work PC build under $700
in Desktops ·
Kimberly Gomez34 said:Ejebiga, why even bother asking about $50 😬
Take the Knight case, for instance:Max GPU length: 410mm. Max CPU cooler height: 160mm. Fan configurations: front 1x12cm, side 2x12cm or 14cm, rear 1x8cm or 12cm.
I’m actually quite impressed; you won't find this much clearance for GPUs and coolers even in cases that cost twice as much.
Kimberly Gomez34, NHF, seriously? How? Where?? Paper claims whatever you want, but the disk cage is non-removable since it's all one solid piece, and the case itself is only about 17 inches. How on earth are they supposed to cram a 410 mm GPU in there??? Unless they're using some different units of measurement... There are no vents on the top or bottom, just the side. If you want to swap the cooler, you have to pull the whole motherboard out because there's no clearance under the board. Cable management is zero—absolute nothing, zilch, zero.
On top of that, it only has one fan, the front panel is inaccessible, the PSU is mounted at the top, and there isn't even USB 3.0...
It doesn't cost that much for no reason $57, it's not like they're superheroes who can engineer a high-quality, cheap case out of thin air... A decent 120mm fan alone costs this much 😬
And some are even more expensive...
coastalowl58 said:Alright, what are you guys recommending for a case under $250?$117
My main priority is having USB ports and a headphone jack right on the front panel..
From what I've gathered, this recommended MS Taurus has them..but it’s missing a dust filter, which is a huge deal for me. I need that protection.
If you guys are seriously insisting that it's worth splurging on something higher quality, I can stretch my budget by another $20 or so..
It's not about $67, it's about the difference, Libra = $83, Z1 = $100...
Deals, Discounts, and Best PC Component Buys & Builds
in Desktops ·
Gaming/Work PC build under $700
in Desktops ·
I agree, and I’ve already mentioned that regarding the expensive cases, but seriously, just take a look at their site: http://hr.ms-start.com/proizvodi/ku%...sta_midi-tower . They’re listing midi towers. Out of the 11 cases they have listed, only one even has the power supply mounted at the bottom. Not a single one features USB 3.0. There isn't a single mention of fans anywhere, and no matter how hard I squint, I don't see any room for a fan on the back panel. You can't even get to the front because the entire drive cage is fixed in place...
With "gaming" cases, things are slightly better, but still pretty mediocre...
With "gaming" cases, things are slightly better, but still pretty mediocre...
Gaming/Work PC build under $700
in Desktops ·
As far as I know, there’s only one decent FSP power supply out there... Look, I get that CM and TT aren't top-tier cases, but the people complaining about them just complain—yet the second you even mention MS, they lose their minds. 😬
Total tangent here, but the libar LF-01B-OP is a perfect example of a case that actually delivers. It’s got an excellent finish and great specs: 4 fans, 2 fan controllers, dust filters, it's toolless, and it even features a hotswap docking bay for 3.5" and 2.5" drives... No joke, it looks compact on the outside but feels massive inside 😬 because the layout is so efficient. Sure, it's $200, but honestly, I think it beats cases that cost twice as much...
Total tangent here, but the libar LF-01B-OP is a perfect example of a case that actually delivers. It’s got an excellent finish and great specs: 4 fans, 2 fan controllers, dust filters, it's toolless, and it even features a hotswap docking bay for 3.5" and 2.5" drives... No joke, it looks compact on the outside but feels massive inside 😬 because the layout is so efficient. Sure, it's $200, but honestly, I think it beats cases that cost twice as much...
Gaming/Work PC build under $700
in Desktops ·
Look, I think they've improved, but honestly, it just comes down to mindset. For a build costing a few hundred bucks (well, starting from $667), I'd personally rather grab a single Zalman Z1 or a TT Versa II—both with two 120mm fans—anything under $100. Or maybe go with a CM Elite, then pair it with an Antec VS4000B for slightly more than $67, or a Chieftek libar LG with two fans for $83.
Now, someone’s going to argue that MS is $60... Sure, but if it only has one fan, what kind of fan is it? And if you want to buy a decent 120mm fan later, how much is that going to cost you? Plus, you're stuck with USB 2.0; there's no USB 3.0 support on the case. No support for multiple audio standards (Intel HD Graphics, AC'97, Azalia), etc... And of course, zero dust filters...
So, do the math: compare that to a Libra or a Z1 that actually includes all those features, and see how small the price gap really is. Like I said, even for a $2,000 rig, that difference is less than 5% of the total build cost...
It's not easy to scrape together cash for any decent PC these days, but just like we obsess over power supplies (rightfully so), you should put some actual thought into cases and check out the options... I'm not about wasting money, and I'm definitely not into those flashy, sci-fi looking cases with Christmas lights and transparent side panels, but I am firmly convinced that those extra $17 (okay, or 100) shouldn't be cut from the case budget, because there are cases that cost a tiny bit more but are significantly better...
No offense intended—and I'll say it again—I believe MS has improved since those old cases where you had to run an external audio cable through the back to the motherboard output, but this is strictly my opinion and not something anyone else has to agree with... 😬
When I see an MS carbon for $55 versus a Zalman Z1 for $100, or a Chieftek Libra for $84, my vote always goes to the Z1 or the Libra...
And that's not even being biased... 😬
Now, someone’s going to argue that MS is $60... Sure, but if it only has one fan, what kind of fan is it? And if you want to buy a decent 120mm fan later, how much is that going to cost you? Plus, you're stuck with USB 2.0; there's no USB 3.0 support on the case. No support for multiple audio standards (Intel HD Graphics, AC'97, Azalia), etc... And of course, zero dust filters...
So, do the math: compare that to a Libra or a Z1 that actually includes all those features, and see how small the price gap really is. Like I said, even for a $2,000 rig, that difference is less than 5% of the total build cost...
It's not easy to scrape together cash for any decent PC these days, but just like we obsess over power supplies (rightfully so), you should put some actual thought into cases and check out the options... I'm not about wasting money, and I'm definitely not into those flashy, sci-fi looking cases with Christmas lights and transparent side panels, but I am firmly convinced that those extra $17 (okay, or 100) shouldn't be cut from the case budget, because there are cases that cost a tiny bit more but are significantly better...
No offense intended—and I'll say it again—I believe MS has improved since those old cases where you had to run an external audio cable through the back to the motherboard output, but this is strictly my opinion and not something anyone else has to agree with... 😬
When I see an MS carbon for $55 versus a Zalman Z1 for $100, or a Chieftek Libra for $84, my vote always goes to the Z1 or the Libra...
And that's not even being biased... 😬
Gaming/Work PC build under $700
in Desktops ·
The only thing that really gets under my skin is those MS cases. They're a total mess. I don't know where you got this build list, but check if they even offer a decent case with bottom-mounted power supplies and dual fans... These MS ones rattle like crazy because the sheet metal is so thin and the build quality is just garbage. It's honestly terrible.
Gaming PC build ideas?
in Desktops ·
Liquid cooling is a total waste of money if you aren't overclocking. Getting an SSD is definitely the smart move for what you're planning, but you should pair it with at least a terabyte HDD—just stay far away from those slow "green" drives you mentioned... And honestly, if you’ve got the budget, just bite the bullet and go for a full 32GB of RAM. It'll make life so much easier when you're dealing with video editing and photoshop RAW files.
Gaming PC build ideas?
in Desktops ·
First off, I can't see a thing. Shrink the image before you crop it next time. Second, you just threw those parts together like you're digging a ditch—and to be blunt: those components aren't exactly top-tier. Stop asking if things are "good enough" instead of just building it... we aren't going to get anywhere that way. You've already got a solid build sitting there, so don't overcomplicate things or blow through cash like it grows on trees (trust me, it doesn't). If you keep this up, people are going to start calling you a troll and kick you out of here... 😬 Show some respect for the time and expertise people put into their replies...
Gaming PC build ideas?
in Desktops ·
That's a terrible build. The CPU is overpriced, the whole thing is poorly balanced, and way too expensive. Dropping that much cash without even getting peripherals is... well... just stupid.
I mean, WTF, over $1,000 just for the CPU and GPU???? Come on...
Newegg has an exclusive deal with American Express for 24 months, sure, but you could still put together a solid configuration at Newegg that actually matches those components—and if not cheaper, then at least better built. These pre-built rigs usually use whatever parts they need to offload high-margin inventory...
Just hang tight until someone shows up who can actually build a decent rig for you. I’d do it myself, but I don't really know my way around these new GPUs since I don't game, but someone will definitely step up soon...
I mean, WTF, over $1,000 just for the CPU and GPU???? Come on...
Newegg has an exclusive deal with American Express for 24 months, sure, but you could still put together a solid configuration at Newegg that actually matches those components—and if not cheaper, then at least better built. These pre-built rigs usually use whatever parts they need to offload high-margin inventory...
Just hang tight until someone shows up who can actually build a decent rig for you. I’d do it myself, but I don't really know my way around these new GPUs since I don't game, but someone will definitely step up soon...