Honestly, I don't know... he barely has anything in stock, so everything has to be ordered in. I once ordered a specific graphics card from him—we agreed on the exact model and specs, I paid upfront, and he was supposed to order it. But when my son went to pick it up, the guy just shoved some completely different random card from his shelf into his hands instead. I’ve been there twice now, and I'm done. I've got nothing against the guy personally, and maybe someone else will have better luck, but it just didn't sit right with me.
Stock prices are a joke... In Indianapolis, they’ve basically all cleared out too—it's the same old story. Sure, you might stumble upon something decent at Chipstore or Amazon once in a blue moon, but those are rare finds...
Nah. If you’d gone with the GP3 series, you might have been okay. This is just that older, weaker GP2 series that doesn't really bring anything to the table. Honestly, whenever you see a high watt rating for a dirt-cheap price, just run the other way.
Besides, I don't trust them because they always use these weird measurement specs that leave you guessing. They'll claim a massive amount of amps on the 12V rail that, by any basic formula, doesn't actually match the declared wattage. It means they're cutting corners somewhere...
If you absolutely have to grab something from Amazon, then this one or this one . Both will do the job, and at least with these, you know the wattage is actually a direct product of voltage and amperage 😬
crimsonstag84, did you even read that? This isn't about CPU temps. It's about the fact that under full load, this thing can pull up to 140W, which is going to wreck the motherboard. AMD totally lied about the TDP rating.
Plus, his sim actually prefers faster single-core performance, so the processor is basically going to be pinned at high utilization constantly...
Honestly, I think you’ve got way bigger issues on your plate than a router or signal splitting. You just picked the wrong place to vent all that frustration.
Ugh... you hit a wall with that motherboard. You couldn't have known, honestly, nobody could, but it turns out it just can't handle high-draw CPUs based on what the manufacturer says: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/...0-970a-warning
Which basically means you can't just swap in a beefier processor because any decent upgrade is going to pull way more power than what you're running now.
So, you really need to move to a new platform. I bet the guys chiming in here are going to tell you to jump over to Intel, since the AM3+ socket is pretty much a dead end anyway—AMD isn't making chips for that socket anymore. As for which specific Intel board or CPU to pick, I'll pass; there are guys here who know how to spec a build way better than I do.
Your current RAM (DDR3) is fine. You should be able to sell the board and the processor to claw back some cash, since that chip is still decent. Regarding the GPU, if you don't have the budget for a serious upgrade right now, I'd say it can wait—that GeForce GTX 760 still has some life in it... and it's still well above the recommended specs for Microsoft Flight Simulator.
Then again, even if you decide to sell the card, you could probably grab some solid money for it. You'll see when the time comes. The case is fine, and I think the PSU can hold out for a while longer with its 40A and 480W on the +12V rail, provided it's not ancient...
Honestly, your current setup is entirely above the recommended requirements, so I don't get why it isn't running smoothly for you. You didn't mention what kind of drive you're using—is it some slow mechanical drive spinning at 5400 RPM? Maybe a bit more RAM would help? I haven't looked deeply enough into exactly how much resources that simulator actually eats up...
wow! Short fuse, huh? Someone’s clearly having a bad day. Damn, man, they were just trying to help you out... and you immediately jump down their throat like some kind of total jerk.
How is anyone supposed to judge how much expertise or experience you actually have just by looking at a username? Believe me, people come here with zero clue what they're doing. From what I can see, you didn't even ask them to explain things or mention you had any background in this—you just went straight for the attack.
With an attitude like that, don't expect anyone to lift a finger for you. By the way, you realize the people responding to posts here aren't getting paid a dime? They’re doing this purely out of goodwill, giving up their own free time just to help people who are stuck.
Anything is possible, I guess. But honestly, every Z1, Z3, and Z9 I’ve ever worked on or owned came with Zalman fans that actually performed well. Since they design their own stuff, they probably factor those fans into the cost anyway instead of charging extra for them. 😬
Two months isn't nearly enough time for fans to start making noise, and it's definitely not enough time to build up a layer of dust...
I guess you can never say never—you might have just gotten stuck with a dud component—but if you went with a Fortress unit, I doubt it's whistling, and honestly, even with a Zalman case, they pack decent 120mm fans inside...
Do yourself a favor and actually think about what's bothering you and where that sound is coming from...
It’s probably just some factory default setting. Just Google the specific model number and look up the default USN and password... Or check the manual; it should be in there somewhere. By the way, isn't it usually printed on the bottom of the amplifier?
It all depends on which browser you're running. You'll need to jump into the settings and manually switch your default search engine back. Some software you installed recently probably hijacked your settings and swapped Google out for something else like Google.de.
You need to log into your router's settings to check the network name and password. That’s where you manage how everything connects to your network. Some routers have a physical button on the front—if you hit that, it enters a sort of registration mode for about a minute, letting anyone nearby connect without manually typing in credentials. I'm not sure if yours works that way or not.
Basically, start with the router's manual. It'll tell you exactly how to access the setup interface, including the specific username and password you need just to get into the settings in the first place. If you don't have those or can't find them, just give your ISP's customer service a call...
You can even tackle this yourself if you're feeling a bit DIY 😬
Standard Molex connectors have four wires: +12V, ground, ground, and +5V. Since fans run on 12V, you just hook up the 12V line and one of the grounds.
If you want to drop the voltage to 7V to quiet those fans down, just wire them to both the 12V and the 5V lines. That creates a 7V difference, which slows the fans down.
If you want them even slower, just connect the fan to the 5V line and a ground.
Just be careful not to plug a modified connector into anything else, or you might end up frying something...
Alexander Moore67, you're overreacting and spamming. That link you posted actually says: "Me too, but the case is like 5 yrs old and Im afraid the cabling is bad and doesnt have many features newer-cases have." - didn't you catch that?
It's pretty obvious you haven't spent much time looking at cases if you're acting like this airflow layout is some big discovery. This is the standard setup and fan placement found in basically any case more expensive than $33...
I deleted your posts because you were being insulting, and that’s where I draw the line. A debate is fine if you actually have an argument, but personal attacks aren't. Please don't push it further because 🙂