Check the status. Right-click the icon, go to Properties, then Tools, and hit Check disk; basically, Properties > Tools > Check now. See if it flags any errors, but if it asks you to fix them—don't let it. Just write down whatever it reports and tell me...
analogwolf12 said:Regarding Microsoft Word, I think these were made with the 2013 version, but I'm running 2010.
😵 If you're questioning your own sanity, don't worry—your logic holds up. Of course 2010 isn't going to be able to open a newer file format...
As for the images, what format are we talking about and what are you using to view them? Right-click the image icon and hit properties; check what it says there. You should see an extension like something.jpg and it’ll show which program is set to handle it. You probably just need to install the right software or adjust your preferences to tell Windows which program to use by default. Alternatively, just right-click the image, select open with..., pick the program you want, and make sure to check that box to apply it to all files of that type...
Look, an e-ink reader isn't some printer; it’s a tablet designed specifically for reading books comfortably. You load up a massive library onto it—since they hold so much—and take it wherever you go to read or study. The whole point is that you don't have to lug around heavy, bulky books. It feels like we're slowly phasing out paper, and honestly, we might hit a point where paper becomes obsolete entirely. There are already plenty of newspapers and books out there that you can't even buy in print because the cost of printing and binding is just too high. That said, these e-ink readers aren't really for the old-school crowd who needs to actually feel the pages or spread multiple books out on a desk.
As for a standard printer, George Sanders37 gave you the best advice. Getting that cheap HP LaserJet and finding compatible toner everywhere you go in NYC is definitely your best bet... I don't think you'll find anything better for that kind of money...
You didn't mention where you're located, but check if there's a local toner shop nearby that refills cartridges with powder. It’s usually way cheaper—maybe around $27 per cartridge. How many times you can reuse them just depends on the specific model. That might be your best bet for saving some cash.
I’ve been going through this entire thread again, and here’s my take:
1. The motherboard works fine with the MS power supply. 2. Corsair works with other boards.
Ergo, the only possible culprit for incompatibility is the connectors. Take a close look at the voltage connectors plugging into the board (the 24-pin and 4-pin). Check if any wire has slipped out of the terminal, causing a loose or intermittent connection. Also, inspect the headers on the motherboard itself to make sure there isn't any debris inside. Check how they seat when you plug them in—make sure nothing is obstructing them and causing one end of the connector to sit unevenly or hang loose.
If it’s not that, then I’m stumped doing this remotely. At that point, I’d probably be doing what Antony suggested and grabbing a multimeter to test the actual voltages...
Here’s what the current offer looks like (mostly).
And this is one possible way to go. You can check toner prices via these links on the right; OEM cartridges run about $167 apiece, while the generic ones are closer to $100.
If that’s too steep, head over to Staples. Just play around with the filters on the first link I posted—you can strip out color or Wi-Fi options to see if you can find a better deal...
Look, investing in yourself is always the smartest move, but you don't need to go broke right out of the gate. Start with some free courses online, or check out what's being offered on Collective, Black Egg & Co. They have some solid options at decent discounts if you're interested. Once you've leveled up, if you still can't land a job with those new skills, it's never too late to pivot into something like this.
But dropping that much cash right at the beginning? I wouldn't do it...
Your Windows XP is probably sitting on a FAT32 file system. Here's the deal: Windows 7 refuses to install on FAT32 because it demands an NTFS file system for the primary partition—basically, the spot where the OS actually lives. Windows 7 can talk to FAT and FAT32 just fine and supports them fully, it just won't let you run the installation on them.
So, go ahead and check which file system that XP setup is using...
That was just a comment regarding the battery state on such an ancient motherboard. I never said the battery had anything to do with the system booting up; it’s about saving BIOS settings, which I assume you already know...
Where can I find a new s775 motherboard? Does it look decent visually? Make sure there aren't any bloated capacitors, leakage, or obvious damage. Try resetting the BIOS—either with a jumper or, even better, just pull the battery out for about half an hour...
Also, try flipping the polarity on the wires going to the power switch connector on the board.
Opinions are all over the place on this one. Some sources claim the R9 270 pulls less power than the Radeon HD 4870, while others say it actually hits 10-20W higher during peak loads. Honestly, the only thing we can be sure of is that the stuff hitting our local US retail shelves isn't always top-tier quality, so you never know what kind of luck you'll get with specific cards. That’s why I was asking which Fortron unit you're running and how old it is. My point was mostly theoretical—to get the real story, you'd need to measure both the PSU and the GPU directly. In my 30+ years messing around with hardware, I've learned that anything can happen...
Willis, what's the deal with you just copy-pasting what alentros wrote in his last post, shortening it, and adding a few typos on top of it? You looking for attention? All you're gonna get is a ban...
@ alentros:
You can never actually trust temperature readings unless the manufacturer designed both the board and the software used to measure them—which is especially sketchy with those old Gigabyte boards. I spent years building rigs with those older Gigabyte boards for both AMD and Intel builds, and I always had about 4 or 5 different monitoring apps running at once, praying that at least one of them was actually accurate 😬 CPUs and GPUs are fine since they have their own sensors, but those Gigabyte sensors they slapped onto the boards back then? Good grief...
Wait, which Fortron model are we talking about and how old is it? Honestly, a modern build might actually pull a tiny bit more power (maybe 10-20W) than the old one during a heavy load, so in some wild, unlikely scenario it might even force the CPU to underclock... 🤷
Everyone keeps saying BF4 is a massive CPU hog, and honestly, they aren't wrong—sometimes a faster processor does way more for your frame rates than a beefier GPU. You really need to check which motherboard you're running. If you've got an older board, there's a chance you're dealing with one of those models that "allowed" support for newer AMD AM2+ and AM3 chips like the Athlon II or Phenom II by using a modified AM2 socket without actually changing the board's architecture. Basically, you can shove a newer CPU into it, but it ends up communicating with the rest of the system at the speed of the old bus. It doesn't slow down the CPU itself, but it creates a bottleneck in communication, which kills your overall performance. That’s exactly why AMD put out warnings for these specific boards:
"(Note) If you install AMD AM2+ CPU on AM2 motherbord, the system bus speed will downgrade from HyperTransport 3.0(5200MHz) to HT1.0(2000 MT/s) spec; however, the frequency of AM2+ CPU will not be impacted. Please refer "CPU Support List" for more information."
Take a look at your board; right near the CPU socket, you should see HyperTransport 3.0 printed in big, bold letters. If you see that, then I'm just rambling for nothing 😬 but if you don't find it, that's probably your problem 99% of the time.
If you're rocking an older case, it might be time to swap out those stock fans. Check your setup—you’ve probably got one 80mm to 120mm fan tucked at the bottom of the front panel and another one acting as an exhaust on the back. You want them oriented so the front one pulls air in and the rear one pushes it out. This creates the airflow needed to keep things from overheating, helping out your GPU and CPU coolers while also keeping the chipset, RAM, and drives from cooking. They aren't exactly expensive; you can grab decent ones for about $40-$17. Honestly, they start making this annoying whistling noise after a few years, so it's worth replacing them. It's a simple DIY job anyone can handle. Just make sure to check if your motherboard uses 2-pin or 3-pin connectors before you buy anything.