You need to explain things a bit better (or maybe 😬 I just didn't catch it) regarding how you actually hooked everything up.
What outputs does your graphics card even have? Which port is the monitor plugged into? And which port is the TV using? Where is the converter located? What input are you using on the TV?
What GPU are we talking about here? What kind of TV is it? What other inputs does that TV have?
You should probably check the version numbers. If they rolled out a major update, there might be a huge compatibility gap causing file format issues. Or, if there are any geo-restrictions involved, the system might just be rejecting the connection because the correct region isn't specified in the header.
It’s just guesswork at this point, exactly like Anthony said...
Oh, seriously? You actually have 😍. How can you not? It downloaded for me without any issues—it’s just zipped up, so you need to extract it and drop it into the right folder. If you don't have a zip tool handy, just grab 7-Zip; it's free and handles pretty much every format out there.
It should be showing up under All Programs. It might not be listed specifically as Waterfox, though, so check the exact file path being called and look directly in that folder.
And yeah, obviously your Bookmarks are gone. You're using a different browser now; you actually have to manually import them from the old one.
Waterfox is basically just the 64-bit version of Firefox, and people claim it's actually the fastest browser out there... On that page where you downloaded it, you'll see language packs listed underneath. There isn't an American one available, just Canadian, so you could try using that. You'd likely have to download it and manually drop it into the Waterfox folder.
If you need to find where the program is actually installed, just right-click the icon and hit properties. That'll show you the full file path and the exact name of the executable that runs when you click the icon.
That power supply is a complete joke. It’s been $50 entire cycles now, featuring passive PFC and only one single SATA connector 😱. You can't mess around with stuff like this; it's barely enough to support the PC you're running. Honestly, in today's market, a single SATA connector wouldn't even cut it for a basic Microsoft Office machine...
My honest advice? Get rid of it as soon as possible...
Man... looks like you aren't getting any favors from them. People are piling onto Xerox support complaining about all sorts of printers, and apparently, a ton of people are dealing with Xerox machines spitting out "ghost text":
Check your BIOS settings—look for things like S1 or S3 sleep states, or anything labeled "Suspend to..." Try toggling those if you don't mind potentially messing with something else. It’s not a direct fix, but sometimes tweaking power states helps clear up those weird phantom issues...
I don't know if this is some weird glitch caused by an ad on a site like Reddit or maybe some shady IE plug-in, but this has been popping up randomly for the last few weeks. Once it starts, it's basically impossible to get anything done on the forum. I've even asked some smarter people about it, and nobody has a clue why it's happening. Anyway, it seems to be strictly an IE issue; I switched over to Opera and everything works perfectly fine without any hiccups...
946 pages? That thing hasn't even broken a sweat yet. 😬 Look, just try printing a massive black block—maybe do it a couple of times—and see what happens. If you're not sure how, just make a table in Word and fill the cells black, or maybe change the background color to black or some dark gray... Maybe the machine just needs a little shock to the system.
You can find a million different types of 300gsm paper or 250gsm cardstock out there. Honestly, you don't even need lamination if the stock isn't coated—if it's coated, the ink just won't soak in properly. Sometimes even a water-based varnish works, but that really depends on what you're working with.
Look, I haven't actually tried this myself, so take my word with a grain of salt!
The real issue is how the paper moves through the machine. Standard paper tends to curl during the printing and feeding process, which means it definitely wouldn't make it out of the tray without issues. However, that Pixma has a rear feed slot, and printers designed like that are usually built to handle thicker stock without wrecking the internal rollers. According to the specs, it can handle up to 300g/sqm, so theoretically, it should be fine...
Just be careful—try a single sheet first and see what happens. If it jams, kill the power immediately. You shouldn't break anything trying it with just one piece of paper...
granitepuma10 said:I went ahead and wiped the partitions, formatted everything, and cleared the slate entirely. I performed a fresh installation, which seemed to go off without a single hitch—though it did prompt me for some domain settings, which I simply bypassed by hitting "skip." Everything proceeded normally until the system rebooted and began loading Windows XP. That’s when things took a turn for the worse; the monitor just cuts out completely. I tried removing the CD to see if that would push the process forward, but just as it reaches the point where the desktop should finally load, the screen goes black again. It just sits there, unresponsive, glowing with that dull orange light as if it’s stuck in standby mode.
Why would you do that? Don't yank the disc out until it's actually finished. That system hang usually happens because it gets stuck in a loop trying to find a file on the CD that isn't there anymore since you pulled it...
By the way, if you're hunting for drivers for ancient motherboards, I've actually managed to track down some seriously prehistoric stuff on these sites:
The Fractal Design Define R4 already comes with two 140mm silent fans running at 1k RPM—one intake up front and one exhaust in the back. For most builds, that’s plenty of airflow to keep things cool, especially if you're just using integrated graphics since you didn't mention a GPU. Even though those fans are quiet on their own, there's zero point in adding more just for the sake of it; noise just multiplies once you start stacking them.
Right now, you've got four fans in total: two in the case, one on the CPU cooler, and one in the PSU. Just make sure you aren't shoving the back of the case right against the wall—leave at least four inches of breathing room. Also, mount the PSU so it exhausts downward and make sure the case feet are on a hard surface so air can actually flow underneath. That's really it. You don't need anything else. If you have a decent power supply, you won't even hear it. The only thing you might notice is the CPU fan ramping up, so if that's bothering you, just grab an aftermarket cooler with a larger 120mm fan and better speed control...
Let me stop you right there: don't get your hopes up—it’s not going to happen with just a cable.
This is an old-school issue that you can't fix simply by swapping out wires. You need a signal converter, and those aren't cheap. You used to be able to find them everywhere, but lately, they're getting harder to track down since VGA and Scart connections are basically becoming relics.
Here's the deal: generally, cables with different connectors only work if you're converting the same type of signal—like analog to analog or digital to digital. But VGA is this weird hybrid with a different signal structure, which is why it demands an actual converter.
Sure, you can find all sorts of cables online; Chinese manufacturers will slap any connector on a piece of wire you want, but that doesn't mean it'll actually function. Specifically, the cable you're looking at is likely designed for video projectors that have built-in conversion circuitry to handle the signal themselves.
For your VGA setup, you're going to need something like this:
Just make sure you check the supported resolutions. Also, see how your TV handles scaling non-native resolutions, because the result could range from "okay" to a total disaster. Don't expect any extra image quality here.
It’s possible the solder joints on the DC jack are failing. If they're loose, even a tiny nudge could cut power completely, which opens a massive can of worms for the rest of the hardware. Just be careful—if you mess with that connector too much, you might rip it right off the board. Re-soldering those things is a nightmare, and honestly, most of the time it's just impossible. You might want to take it to a repair shop to have them inspect and reinforce the connection before you end up with a dead laptop. Or just do it yourself if you actually know what you're doing...
The first step in figuring out what’s actually broken before we even talk solutions is just running a disk check. Right-click the drive, hit properties, then run check disk. Let me know what it says.