Posts by darkowl72

Just look at the last four posts, then you'll get it.

stormywolf39 laid it all out perfectly in those two posts above, complete with the latest charts. At this point, it really just boils down to your budget and where you're shopping. If you've got a decent motherboard and a solid CPU—which you can always overclock a bit if you feel like it—you're in good shape. If you can swing an NVIDIA GTX 460 with 1GB of VRAM, you'll be totally fine.

Also, what kind of power supply are we talking about here? Brand, wattage, how old is it?

I don't think that's even possible... besides, if you look at what the manager wrote, he’s available everywhere. Just try asking if you can pay for it here at the local branch, then have the guys from the headquarters just ship it over to the assembly tech under your name, assuming they'll even allow that... damn, just give it a shot..

Don't bother with that power supply. Just grab one from Newegg instead.

You can just plug it in without any hassle...

It's got three +12V rails, each pumping out a massive 30A, totaling 492W. Honestly, you're unlikely to ever need more than that... 😁

http://www.google.com/translate?lang...er_550_w/71960

Look, it's just computer hardware, we just don't talk about this stuff enough on here... 🤷 maybe you should try asking the same thing over on the satellite subforum? 😁

Sapphire uses that kind of design, but they don't carry it at Micro Center anymore. I've got no clue what else is out there... maybe check Zotac?

Bad timing on the GPU... just hang in there for a bit longer. In a month or maybe six weeks, once prices drop, you should be able to grab something like an HD 5770 for what you're paying now. Right now, you'd just be settling for a much slower, weaker card like an HD 5670...

btw, that power supply of yours isn't exactly top-tier...

It’s tough... if you take it to a data recovery specialist, they'll just give you a reality check that those seven days won't seem nearly as bad once you see the bill. 😁

And then... that's it. If it’s still under warranty, just go swap it out. Next time, maybe try saving your data onto a DVD instead... damn.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4539965_fix-...0-windows.html

Samuel Martinez said:And how much cash are we talking about? How much for the power supply, the HD5770, and the GTX460 768mb?

Just read a few posts above yours. That'll solve all your problems:

Hey, I’m actually pretty glad BlackRock officially shut that down 😁 I honestly had no idea there were color lasers with a straight paper path... this OKI C3400 looks solid. It claims it can handle manual feeds up to 86lb paper, which is huge—that means I could probably run 90lb through it, which is plenty thick enough for business cards. You should give some 96lb a shot and see; if it works, it works. If it doesn't, you aren't going to ruin everything with just one or two sheets...

Look at Quark, they're just making their own stuff now...

1. As far as I know (unless something major changed recently), 350gsm isn't even paper anymore—it's cardstock. And honestly, no consumer-grade machine, not even SOHO or office printers, can handle that. It’s just how the tech works. You can't manually adjust the roller height like you would on a commercial printing press; instead, rollers are set to some "universal" height designed to handle the standard 60-125gsm stuff. Some printers that aren't total junk might swallow up cardstock up to 220-250gsm, but anything thicker is a struggle. Even if you force 220gsm through, you'll end up stretching the rollers, which means later on when you try to print on thinner paper, it'll just slip and dance under the rollers. If you want decent business cards (in reasonable quantities), your best bet is an inkjet with a straight-through feed—something where the paper stays flat as it moves through. Any bend in thick paper creates resistance.

Basically, you want the paper to go in straight and come out the other side without any curling. Only certain inkjets actually offer that kind of pathing, and even then, they're rare. With lasers, if you find a mechanism like that at all, it's usually only in monochrome models; in color lasers, it's practically impossible because the hardware would take up way too much space. Speaking of B&W, back in the day, I had two HP laser printers from their older series that let you open the fuser cover from the back without triggering an error code. That allowed the paper to exit straight. I used them to print maybe two dozen thank-you notes or diplomas in black or gold (using gold foil)—but only the names; everything else was pre-printed via offset.

And forget about duplexing. The whole point of duplex is handling thin paper easily.

2. For one-offs or just a few copies, you can use inkjets that have a dedicated CD tray. There used to be machines on the market specifically for printing on CDs, but they were semi-pro, slow as hell, and incredibly expensive. I haven't seen anything like that in stores for a long time.

However, once you hit the 100-unit mark, it's probably worth just contacting a professional print shop. Prices aren't what they used to be. There are plenty of shops in major cities like Chicago or NYC that do this, and I know for sure companies like FedEx Office or local specialty printers have the gear since they handle discs too. Give them a call and see what they quote.

edit:

Oh, wait, I just remembered. There was a brand called Primera, and they have distributors here in the States:

Just look at those prices... man... 🤦 serious money...

Stumbled upon this while browsing on my PC, so here it is. Could be pretty useful for anyone trying to figure out how much power their GPUs are actually pulling... 😁 These measurements cover all the latest cards on the market, though with how fast tech moves these days, they won't stay relevant for very long....

http://forums.atomicmpc.com.au/index.php?showtopic=264

Corsair just dropped their new "Builders" series, the CX line—and don't go confusing this with the old CX stuff 😁. There aren't any full-blown reviews out yet, just some teasers from about two weeks ago and early feedback from people who actually bought them:

- Quick take from one user:

Pros: Better than those bottom-of-the-barrel $20 units...

Cons: -SLEEVE BEARING FAN = SHORT LIFESPAN. They claim it's double ball-bearing, but they're lying. The fan is model# D12SH-12, which is sleeve bearing, not ball. Just Google it.

-Only a 2-year warranty, whereas the old CX400 had 3 years (makes you wonder why...)

-The CX400 was built by SeaSonic, but this new CX430 is made by CWT. cost optimization...

-The CX400 had a 30amp 12v rail, while the CX430 dropped to 28amp. Modern PCs need that 12v juice.

Other Thoughts : Overall, Corsair took a reliable workhorse (the CX400) and swapped it for a cheap knockoff that’ll likely die in two and a half years once that sleeve-bearing fan gives up the ghost.

Looks like I'm shopping for a different brand for my budget builds.

Having a ball-bearing fan is huge for any PSU. It doesn't matter how good the rest of the unit is; if the fan dies, the whole thing is toast.

Announcement link: http://www.legitreviews.com/news/9105/

Newegg user ratings link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ords%29&Page=1

I think you just need to install the drivers. Check out the HP DesignJet T330 support site...

Go into your Device Manager and uninstall both the mouse and the webcam. While you're at it, strip out any software tied to them too. Shut down the computer. Unplug everything. Boot it back up. Now, reinstall the mouse first, shut down and restart again, then tackle the webcam...