Posts by Joshua Garcia3

Which specific motherboard are we talking about here? I'd need the manufacturer and the exact model number.

Maybe try this link here from the Canon website.

Which TV are we actually talking about here?

It might be helpful if you could let us know which laptop you're actually using—specifically the manufacturer and the exact model number, which should be right there on the sticker on the bottom. Also, any info on which receiver you've got would be great.

@Robin Torres26/">@@Robin Torres26: I guess your conclusion regarding the IPS panel is pretty much spot on. My suggestion remains the same: just go with the Samsung. I’ve been using a 23" IPS Samsung monitor for quite a while now, and honestly, I'm more than happy with the image quality and the viewing angles.

Throw in a few more bucks and you're basically looking at a 24" monitor.

Why bother with used gear when you can grab a killer new monitor for basically the same price.

Maybe this one.

I don't really see the point; I'd just buy a monitor that actually has a built-in digital tuner already. All the ones you listed are just standard monitors.
Take a look here and maybe pick one of these Monitor TVs instead.

With certain General Electric monitor models, I’ve seen people fix this specific error just by power cycling the unit. You turn it off, flip it back on, and it usually manages to auto-detect which input the graphics card is actually running through.

If you ask me, just throw in an extra $33 and go ahead and grab the AOC IPS 22" monitor.

If you’re planning on actually watching movies, I assume you won't just be glued to your desk staring at the screen from inches away. You'll probably end up lounging on a recliner or a couch a few feet back. If that's the case, I'd say it's worth shelling out a little extra cash to grab an IPS LCD monitor—maybe 22" or, if you want to do it right, a 23". The reason for the IPS panel is pretty simple: the color accuracy and image quality stay consistent even when you're viewing it from a lower angle, like from a sofa.

Take a look over at eBay.

It’s pretty obvious that the graphics aren't particularly demanding, but then again, the moment you actually need to crank up the settings, the whole thing just falls apart.

Open it up and take a look. Like fadedorca66 suggested, maybe a capacitor has bulged out or something. If that's the case, it should be an easy fix and won't cost much.

Have you tried running it on a different graphics card or maybe a completely different PC?

Thanks, that cable you mentioned should work perfectly. I won't need an adapter since the port I'm plugging into is actually a female RCA output, so we're all set there. I was actually browsing the Chipotle site yesterday, but I must have missed it. It would be nice if they offered something at least half the price—maybe those gold-plated connectors are driving the cost up?

Is this kind of thing even possible? So, you’re looking for an RCA to stereo adapter—specifically the kind that takes two RCA female jacks and converts them into a single 3.5mm stereo female port. It's a pretty straightforward little piece of hardware, I guess. You basically take those dual RCA connections and merge them into one standard headphone-style jack. It’s useful if you're trying to bridge the gap between older gear and something more modern, or if you just need to consolidate some cables to keep your setup from looking like a bird's nest. Nothing groundbreaking, really, but it does exactly what it says on the tin.I guess I could track down something like that in New York City, though honestly, this one would probably do the job just fine. I guess I should probably mention the cable situation. It’s just one of those things that seems minor until you’re staring at a mess of wires trying to figure out why nothing is working. Maybe it’s worth looking into before it becomes a bigger headache..

What kind of OS are you running on your machine?

Beyond just seeing "2GB DDR3 1333 DIMM CL9" on the stick, the manufacturer is actually listed right there too. Could you let us know which motherboard we're dealing with—specifically the brand and the exact model?