Posts by wanderingbison9

What's actually the point of having a 750W PSU? 🤷

High Definition or Ultra High Definition? And when it comes to codecs, what should we be looking at for our input versus our final export?

Damir Krstičević: "The absolute worst part of it all is when our soldiers lose their lives." ???

Google Chrome tends to hang out in your RAM and just stays there even when you aren't actively using it, though you can definitely tweak your settings to stop that from happening... also, if you happen to be running any non-genuine versions of Microsoft Windows, Microsoft will actively try to block those unauthorized patches, which ends up eating through your CPU cycles in the background. It really looks like you were dealing with a massive amount of background tasks cluttering everything up...

And does it show any kind of BIOS screen when you're booting up?

stormyviper2 said:But what about buying those crazy adapters and converters? My hard drive uses some weird converter for its power supply. Is there an option for a converter similar to what I have for the HDD?

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....FL._SY355_.jpg

Something like this?

From what I can gather, going with a Molex-to-PCIe setup feels a bit risky, doesn't it? Most of those power supply wires are just too thin since they're designed for hard drives that don't pull nearly as many watts as a modern graphics card does. If anyone actually decides to go that route, wouldn't it be essential to plug them into two separate Molex cables? That’s why I decided to grab a PCIe 6-pin to dual 8-pin adapter cable instead; there's a much better chance the wiring on a 6-pin PCIe lead will be decent—at least 20AWG—and since this specific one uses two or three wires to carry the current while a Molex usually only has one, it seems like the safer bet, right?

fadedorca66 said:So, what kind of power supply are you running right now?

Well, I'm still rocking an old Corsair RM500...

I might just head over to Best Buy to swap out that cable for this power supply...

Timothy Kim60 said:A 560W power supply, specifically the LC POWER Silent Giant GREEN POWER GP3 V2.3 with a 140mm fan and 80+ Silver rating - $123

If anyone happens to be on the hunt for a decent, fairly powerful power supply without breaking the bank, this might be worth a look.

Then again, there's the Corsair VS550 with that orange label available for about the same price, so which one would actually be the better choice?

I finally picked up an ASUS ROG Strix x RX580 (it fit perfectly into my relatively small case), and I actually went out of my way to get a 6-to-8 pin PCI adapter since my PSU only has a 6-pin connector. But then, wouldn't you know it, I discovered the card actually runs just fine directly from the 6-pin? I realize those two extra pins are grounded to prevent a weak PSU from being used—mine is a Corsair 500W, which puts about 360W on the 12V rail—but if the card is functioning without demanding that 8-pin connection, is it actually okay to leave it like this? Should I put the adapter back on, or am I missing something obvious (other than the fact that I definitely shouldn't try overclocking it)? Under my typical workload, my total system draw from the wall hits about 350W according to my power meter; GPU-Z shows the GPU itself pulling around 160-170W under load, so when I'm running something like Unigine Heaven, the whole rig pulls just over 300W...

Then again, is it possible the card detects the 6-pin setup and automatically applies a power limit? I did have to nudge the power limit up slightly once just to maintain a steady 1380 MHz...

darkmaker13 said:I finished the build, and everything seems fine overall. The case is a decent size, too. My only real headache is that extra 8-pin power cable for the graphics card; it’s pressing right against the side panel, making it a really tight squeeze to close it up properly.

It sounds like you ended up with a pretty cramped case then, doesn't it? I actually thought I was the only one running into this issue, so I never thought to mention it... when I installed my side-mounted fan, that specific cable was leaning right against it, so I had to wrap the wire in some electrical tape just to make sure the fan blades wouldn't accidentally slice through the insulation over time.

darkmaker13 said:There’s about 300mm of space available, but the card itself is 277mm.

In that case, it should fit just fine, right? I don't think you'll run into any issues with the length, assuming your case isn't incredibly cramped to begin with. You might just want to double-check if there are any motherboard headers or connectors sitting right next to the PCIe slot that this card might block up. Also, keep in mind that a 1080 usually takes up at least two slots in height...

wiredotter14 said:Huh. Didn't realize it supported 0rpm mode👍

It doesn't technically support it for the CPU fan, but as long as you set your fan curve to stay below 40% for a specific temperature range, the fan won't actually spin up. For instance, if you notice your CPU stays around 40°C while idling, you could just set the curve so the fan stays at a minimum of 20% until it hits about 50°C—just to give yourself some breathing room—and then let it start ramping up from there. In that scenario, wouldn't the cooler itself just keep the fan from spinning until the CPU finally reaches that 50°C mark?

wiredotter14 said:Which software do you use to set that up?

It's done right in the BIOS... just using a standard Microsoft's Q-Fan profile.

With a Cooler Master Hyper 212, you can actually customize the fan curve so it stays in a passive mode—meaning the fan won't even kick on until the CPU hits a certain threshold, say 40°C or 50°C if you set the baseline at 40%. If he decides to go through with an undervolt, wouldn't he be able to spend most of his time just browsing the web, typing up documents, or watching YouTube in total silence? For what it's worth, I personally run my Intel Core 1600x overclocked to 4GHz using that same cooler, and it holds steady at around 70°C during an IBT test.

wiredotter14 said:Shouldn't be any issues, it'll just run at CL11 latency.
Just order it online; worst case scenario, you return it within the 14-day window.

Sounds like a solid plan... thanks for the help...👍

Can I get a quick gut check here? A friend of mine is asking about upgrading his RAM by adding another 2x4GB of DDR3 to his Asus A88xm-v setup running an A10-7800... right now, he’s rocking some Vengeance 1333 that hits 1600 via an XMP OC profile at 9-9-9-24, and I'm looking at this 2x4GB kit of Apacer DDR3 1600 CL11... I realize it might slightly throttle the performance of the Vengeance sticks, but the price is under $100 while the Vengeance is sitting at $128. Naturally, I'm hitting some pushback regarding the cost since this isn't exactly a high-end machine... would there be any actual issues running that Apacer alongside the Vengeance? The Apacer is listed as compatible on the motherboard's QVL.

Should I go with the NVIDIA GeForce RTX gaming or the Alienware (not the XT version), both with 8 GB of VRAM, when there is only a $9 difference? It isn't even really for gaming, but rather for compute tasks and DirectX.

Renault slowed down the race pace for Charles

It seems I’m hitting a wall trying to get this Aegis RAM up to 3000 MHz—which is really just 1501 MHz according to the XMP profile—on my x370 motherboard, even though I've gone ahead and selected the correct D.O.C.P. settings... and since I currently have them seated in the A2 and B2 slots, just as the manual explicitly instructs 😵, I honestly can't be bothered to pull them all out again right now...