A Bad sector count usually points toward physical issues with the hard drive. Since you're also having trouble with the optical drive on that machine, I’m still leaning towards the motherboard being the culprit.
You can't really run a full diagnostic on the motherboard at home—if it's still under warranty, I'd say just take it into a service center.
Regarding the tanks—yeah, if you’re running two tanks (black and color), you end up tossing the whole thing. But just because a CMYK system uses five tanks (black, key, and CMY) where you can swap them out one by one, it doesn't necessarily mean you're actually saving money.
When I talk about ink consumption, I'm speaking from my own experience with the Canon inkjets we use at the office—they absolutely gulp down ink.
Looking at this official page, it feels like a bit of a scam to me; there's no way it hits 5,000+ pages, even if you're printing in super draft mode and skipping every other line.
Some inkjets have a separate printhead, while others have them integrated directly into the cartridges—like with an HP, for example.
It looks like the printhead for this older model is pretty pricey; I guess you should be careful when buying a printer and check how much a replacement printhead actually costs.
Mark Torres11 said:I'm looking for some advice on which printer to pick up between an HP Envy series and a Canon mg5650 The HP Envy series is $60 cheaper, but I think the Canon wins on cost per page because of this black ink HP 61XL (pigment black): 500 pages CLI-551BK XL (black): 5530* pages CLI-551C XL (cyan): 695 pages CLI-551M XL (magenta): 680 pages CLI-551Y XL (yellow): 695 pages
What's the deal with that? They're all 11ml, so why does the page count look ten times higher for that one compared to the others?
Also on my list are the HP 3525, the Canon mg5550 (though maybe the 5650 is better?), and a Canon OfficeJet series (but I'd rather pay a bit more $33 for an all-in-one).
Which should I go with? Any of these bad choices I should just cross off?
I’ll focus mostly on the bolded part. There's an asterisk next to that number, so you'd probably need to check what that actually refers to. Honestly, at first glance, that looks like a typo to me—I found data suggesting it was closer to 1,130 pages. http://www.cartridgeink.co.uk/origin...-6443b001.html http://www.bossdirect.co.uk/storefro...9#.VVtmZEY71-o http://www.printerland.co.uk/High-Yi...--P130518.aspx
Keep in mind these Canons have a printhead that’s a replaceable part—it’s an extra expense when it eventually fails (and it will). I also get the feeling that Canons are pretty thirsty for ink and run through it fast, especially if you're doing photo quality stuff. That said, the print quality from Canon is really good.
It might help if you let us know your budget and what you'll be using it for. It looks like you're eyeing printers with individual CMYK tanks, which gives you more accurate and "better" colors initially, but the running costs are higher. If you're strictly printing photos, it's probably fine, but for anything else, it seems way too expensive.
I think Chrome might be using its own built-in flash player, whereas Edge usually relies on an external one—typically where you'd install Adobe Flash Player. You could maybe try disabling that specific component in Chrome to force it to use the Adobe version instead. http://stackoverflow.com/questions/14266...e-flash-plugin http://superuser.com/questions/50369...-google-chrome
A Chrome update will probably fix the issue eventually. Honestly, Chrome has become such a resource hog lately—that's really why I was asking about how much memory it's pulling.
Looking at those screenshots, I’m thinking this might be a disk caching issue. How has the drive been performing lately? Is the SMART status looking alright to you? Any bad sector count or write errors showing up?
If both the power supply and the drive are acting up, then it’s probably a motherboard issue.
darkowl72 said:A standard 7.2k RPM hard drive—which is actually pretty fast—can handle about half the theoretical bandwidth of an Ethernet connection. On top of that, since the early days of Windows, data transfer algorithms have been constantly roasted for being incredibly inefficient and painfully slow because they lean way too heavily on error checking to minimize data corruption.
Plus, we all know the whole chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and usually, that’s the router. There’s an endless supply of cheap routers out there (basically the junk our local ISPs hand out), versus actual serious routers that cost a bit more but actually come with decent components, protocols, and software...
In your situation, I can only say that the Sony (let's be honest 😬) isn't exactly a high-end piece of gear; I've owned one myself. Beyond that, people tend to mess things up even further by tinkering with the firmware. So, if you ask me, that's likely part of why things are crawling, though it's definitely not the only culprit...
That actually reminded me of something, so I just tested it out by moving a file between an HDD and an SSD on my own machine to check the speeds. It hit about 120 MB/s, which is pretty close to 1 Gbps. That was just doing a disk-to-disk transfer on a single PC.
That’s why I was asking if the whole setup is hardwired—if any part of this is wireless, then those speeds make more sense. From what I gather, we're looking at four different devices here (the PC, an ASUS router, a Sony router, and a media player). Which media player are we talking about?
Apple expects users not to mess with the internal hardware—which is why most of it is just sealed up in plastic:
To get the button out, you'll need a thin flathead screwdriver, but once you're in there, you'll just find a switch similar to what's in a laptop keyboard—kind of a rocker mechanism with a plastic nub. I guess that means there's a membrane underneath, so replacing a microswitch probably isn't an option. Maybe you could replace or clean the rocker itself if that's where the issue lies.
I think it's possible the whining sound is coming from the transformer inside the power supply. Maybe try listening to the PSU while it's running versus when it's in sleep mode.
Do you have your settings adjusted to show hidden system files? If so, do your Microsoft Office documents look a bit faded or lighter than usual? If they do, those aren't actually "real" Word documents—they’re just leftover temp files.
Every time you start a new document or work on an existing one, Microsoft Office creates a temporary copy in that same folder, usually starting with some special characters. Normally, when you close the file properly, that copy should just vanish, but sometimes—I guess—it sticks around. Here’s what I mean. View on imgur So, for example: example.docx is the actual document, while ~$example.docx is just a temp file. That ~$example.docx shouldn't really be there at all; it probably stayed behind because of a crash or maybe the computer just shut down unexpectedly. You’ll need to find where the original files are located—they should pretty much always be in the same folder. I'm not really sure if there's a reliable way to pull the actual content out of those temp files, though.
You’ve got an 11 Mbps connection, but data on your hard drives is measured in megabytes.
1 BYTE = 8 BITS
So, with 11 megabits (Mbit), you're looking at downloading about 1.3 megabytes (MB) per second—at most, I guess.
It’s a similar headache when you look at drive capacity—manufacturers tend to use 1 GB = 1000 MB just for marketing reasons, even though it's actually 1GB = 1024 MB.
I’ve seen this workaround before—disabling hardware acceleration—but I don't really think it's a real fix. If I remember correctly, hardware acceleration for things like Flash involves using the graphics card (the GPU), so by turning that off, you're just forcing the CPU to handle all that processing instead. We should probably be looking for the actual reason the GPU is acting up—maybe it's underpowered, or perhaps there's an issue with how the browser communicates with the GPU.
Glad you got it working, but I guess we should probably dig a bit deeper into the root cause.
You're basically just guessing at this point—it feels to me like you might be dealing with some registry issues. Has the system been checked for viruses or malware? edit: I was already sold on Taipan's take after their very first post.
darkowl72 said:To start, try this. It's actually pretty convenient since you can run the program directly from the web without having to download or install anything. That should help if your registry is acting up a bit. If that doesn't work, you probably picked up some junk software that's causing trouble—maybe wait for someone to suggest a scanner to clean things up...
I might not be much help here—at my job, we have a few workstations where we have to drop the native Full HD resolution (1920x1080) down to a lower setting with the same aspect ratio. In macOS and basically all the supporting apps, there’s definitely some blurring—which personally really bugs me—but the users don't seem to care since they can just "use larger fonts and won't need their glasses." At home, when I launch games for the first time on my own monitor, the resolution is usually way lower than native (mine is 1680x1050, but it often defaults to 1280x800 on the first run). There's always some blurring there too, though it seems to vary depending on the game. I've noticed it's more noticeable in certain titles. So, I guess you'll definitely deal with some blur, but the real question is just how bad it's going to look.
CRT monitors used to have a whole different set of issues when it came to picture display—back then, if you changed the resolution or the refresh rate, you could actually fiddle with the geometry settings right on the monitor itself just to get the image to sit perfectly edge-to-edge. Those manual controls still exist on LCD monitors today, but people hardly ever touch them anymore—usually, everyone just hits an "auto-set" button and lets the screen handle the alignment itself.
Scott Ortiz9 said:Automatic duplexing—it’s more of a nice-to-have than an absolute necessity, I guess. 😁 I'm not really following—so I guess I'm not entirely sure about the price. I guess I’d mostly just want the printing itself to be more cost-effective in the long run.
I'm worried you might be falling into that classic trap—spending way too much upfront compared to what you actually pay per page. Like darkowl72 mentioned, you really need to set a specific budget for yourself. For instance, those entry-level lasers usually only get you about 1,000 pages out of the starter toner that comes in the box. $100Wow !!! I have a Xerox Altalink at the office—the one where the toner... $100 It’s clocked at least 10,000 pages. But when we picked up this copier—this whole multi-function unit, really—back about seven years ago, it cost... $6.75 Plus sales tax.
Personally, I feel like the cost per page on these budget lasers is way too high—especially once you factor in the price of third-party toner. $57At around $0.02 per page—though I’ve noticed local print shops usually charge a bit less—it's a toss-up. Honestly, if you aren't printing much—maybe under 100 pages a month—it might be worth having a cheap laser printer at home just for the sake of convenience... or laziness, I guess. For anything more than that, you really need to look into printers in the several hundred dollar range. Or, like I've mentioned before, if you're looking to print entire books, maybe an e-reader is the better way to go.
If your new optical drive only uses those narrow SATA connections, but your motherboard is stuck with the wider ones (P-ATA/IDE), you’re probably going to need an adapter or converter like this:
I have to admit—I haven't actually messed around with these converters myself—so I'm not entirely sure which end plugs into what. Whether they connect at the motherboard side or the drive side... it's hard to say. If they plug into the motherboard, then you'll want an IDE to SATA converter; if they plug into the drive instead, then you'd need a SATA to IDE one. I guess it just depends on the specific model.