As you can see, the cheapest option here is the HP LaserJet. A compatible toner for it runs about $63, while an original one is closer to $117.. Both the OEM and the third-party toners should get you around 1,000 pages.
Edit: I noticed you mentioned printing books—honestly, a basic B/W laser printer probably won't cut it for you. When you go for the absolute cheapest entry-level model, the cost per page ends up being huge... maybe 2 cents a page at best, which is actually pricier than hitting up a local FedEx Office. It might make sense if you're printing super specialized, expensive textbooks. But since you already have everything in digital formats, I guess it might be worth considering an e-reader instead. It’s probably a better long-term investment, especially if you like reading outside of class.
As long as the retailer where you bought it has that serial number on file, you should be able to claim the warranty. I know of cases where people couldn't get service without a receipt, but I'm not entirely sure if the shop is still legally required to take the component in for repair under consumer protection laws.
Kimberly Gonzalez said:Guys, I’m having an issue 😢 My laptop screen has been flickering—like, actually shaking—for two days now. It just started out of nowhere yesterday. Usually, if it happens, I can just reset it and it's fine, but this time it won't stop. Now I have my desktop hooked up and it’s slightly jittery, but the second I try to click anything, the shaking gets really intense. I tried looking things up online and found some steps involving the Control Panel, going into properties, then settings, advanced, monitor, and adjusting the screen refresh rate... but it’s useless because the moment I click on the Control Panel, the screen shakes so much I can't see where anything is anymore. Does anyone know what might be causing this? The laptop is pretty old—I've had it for about 9 years—and it's still running Windows XP. I've never actually taken it in for repairs or anything; I guess I'm not a power user, so maybe that's why it's still holding up.
I'm worried that if the flickering is bad enough that nothing is readable, it might be a hardware issue. It could be the monitor cable, the inverter, or something else... I'm afraid I might have to take it to a repair shop or a technician.
Maybe try downloading a bootable tool—something like Hiren's or UltimateBootCD—and run a MemTest on your RAM. You should also check the drive's S.M.A.R.T. info; if you were on Windows, I’d probably suggest CrystalDiskInfo, but since there's Linux, maybe GSmartControl http://gsmartcontrol.sourceforge.net/home/ would work better. Check the disk for errors using the manufacturer's utility (that should be on the bootable disc) and maybe run a Prime test or something similar on the CPU.
Does Windows throw any specific error messages when you try to boot up, or does it just hang at a certain point while you're attempting a Normal startup?
I can't get this link or the page to load in any of my browsers—Firefox, Chrome, or even IE. When I type in the domain http://epicscanpronice.in/, all I get is this string of characters: "e7hZBzqVfn==".
Are you sure there's actually another server hosting this domain? To be honest, the link looks a bit sketchy to me—the name itself seems to suggest a passthrough to something that doesn't look like a standard URL, maybe more like some kind of dynamic URL that keeps changing.
darkotter35 said:Will I lose all the data on that partition or the entire drive? I'm not too worried about the partition data—I have my C drive backed up with Ghost... I can always run a recovery using Ghost from a bootable CD-ROM
It's the partition you're shrinking space from—since partitioning involves messing with the NTFS tables, if things go south there, it’s not a pretty sight.
You can shrink an existing partition to carve out some space for a new one—that's how it works. I guess there's always a risk, though—if something glitches out during the process, you could end up losing everything on that partition. To handle that kind of situation, most partitioning tools usually offer to create recovery disks just in case.
Could you drop a link to the problematic page? I’m not surprised about the forum—it seems to be throwing errors for everyone lately. There’s actually a dedicated thread about it over on the Reddit subforum.
You're going to have to figure that out on your own, I guess. The first step would be checking each individual device to see if they show the status "This device is working properly." You can do that by right-clicking on the device and selecting Properties.
Have you guys tried running any tests on an external drive to check out the actual read and write speeds? For instance, maybe something like http://usbflashspeed.com/?
Where exactly are those compressed files located? On a hard drive, a thumb drive, or some other kind of media? A speed of 400 kB/s is definitely way too slow.
Maybe check the hardware manager to see what's going on there. Right-click on My Computer. Go to Manage. Then, from the tree view on the left, select Device manager. You should see a whole section for Universal serial bus controllers under the list. Just take a look at each device and its status.
How are you measuring the speed? On that machine—was it running Windows XP before they moved up to Windows 8? I guess if you could list the full specs, it would help us get a better idea.
Also, when you're compressing files or folders, there's that Compression level option—you can pick a faster method, though you might lose out on some compression, or go for maximum compression, but then things will definitely slow down.
The whole topic of compression is pretty broad, honestly—there's a ton of info out there.
You don't really need to open every single file—just grab one and pull out what you need; the system should automatically fetch the rest of the dependencies from the others. Just make sure you extract it from the archive into a separate folder first if you want to be able to mount the image.
The filenames might be identical, but the extensions are likely what's different. It probably looks something like this:
N/A.r00 N/A.r01 N/A.r02 and so on..
Just open that first file in whatever archive tool you've got installed—maybe WinRAR or 7-Zip—and you should be able to extract whatever you need from there.