There are plenty of workarounds out there, but nothing really works for everyone. Xperia and HTC have their own specific tools available on Google Play, though they’re pretty much limited to their own hardware. Generally speaking, YouTube has pulled back on support, basically leaving developers to figure it out themselves: http://techcrunch.com/2014/10/28/you...e-for-android/
Maybe this is a dumb question, but what's the actual point of live streaming on YouTube? I know the feature exists—they've definitely marketed it—but it just doesn't seem as popular or widespread as other platforms. Plus, trying to stream directly from a phone is a massive resource hog—mostly the battery, I guess—not to mention you really need a rock-solid connection, whether it's 4G or decent WiFi.
I’d suggest getting a card with an antenna right away. I used to have this one for a long time:
It worked fine when I was sitting just a foot or two away through a single wall. But once I moved my PC about ten feet back behind a few walls, the signal became a disaster. Constant drops—and I'm talking maybe 1.2 Mbps at most out of a possible 19 Mbps. Eventually, I picked up:
I'm really happy with it—it fixed all those issues I had with the tiny nano card in the exact same spot, so I'd recommend it.
Maybe only grab a card without an antenna if you're absolutely certain nothing will block the signal (walls and cabinets can be tricky).
edit: if anyone else wants to jump in, the card I mentioned uses an Intel Wireless Chipset
Well, you can see that among the devices flagged with yellow exclamation points—which basically means something is wrong with them—there's a USB controller, which is most likely the culprit here. Usually, those yellow icons mean a driver is missing, though they can point to other issues too.
There are also a ton of exclamation marks for other devices, almost as if someone did a rushed Windows installation and just walked away before finishing the job. In my opinion, the first step should be downloading all those missing drivers.
It looks like there isn't an official site for Windows 7 drivers anymore; your only real option is searching by Hardware ID. I'll link a discussion from an American forum—moderators, please delete this if it's against the rules:
If you happen to have another computer lying around, you could grab a live Linux distro—maybe Puppy Linux http://www.puppylinux.com/download/—burn it to a CD, and boot from that instead. It should let you get into your files and move them somewhere else... since a live Linux environment doesn't touch the integrity of your data, there shouldn't be any issues there, I guess.
I'm having an issue with my system. Please help. I'll try to describe the problem briefly below. I'm using Windows XP. Recently, I tried to get rid of some spyware, malware, or whatever using SpyHunter. After the scan finished, it found some threats and removed them. It seemed like everything was fine at first, but once I restarted the computer, it wouldn't boot up anymore. It looks like something essential for the system to run was deleted.
This pops up when I start the PC: NTLDR is missing Press Ctrl + alt + del to restart
Okay, I figured if something from the Windows system was deleted, I could boot from a Windows CD and run a repair, but the problem is that won't work either! When I boot from the Windows CD and the programs start loading, I get this: File/i386/halaacpi.dll could not be loaded The error code is 7 Setup cannot continue. Press any key to exit.
I didn't think the CD itself was bad, so I popped in another Windows XP CD. Same thing! Only it's a different error. Here's what showed up—it seems to change every time:
File /i386/ntkrnlmp.exe could not be loaded. The error code is 4096. Setup cannot continue. Press any key to exit.
File /i386/KDCOM.DLL/ could not be loaded. The error code is 7. Setup cannot continue. Press any key to exit.
And I just can't get the Windows XP CD to run! It shouldn't be possible for both CDs to be broken.
Is it possible that the Windows XP CD needs certain folders within Windows to function properly, and it's failing because those files are missing?
I'm not really sure... I've had similar issues before where files were accidentally deleted, but it never got to the point where I couldn't even boot the CD. And that's two different CDs.
I accessed the system files using a Linux Live CD and everything looks okay regarding the data. I have access to all the drives and files; it's just that I can't boot the Windows system. I don't know how.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get the system working again? Is it even possible via a bootable Linux CD or USB? Could I somehow copy system files from a Windows CD or from the internet into the Windows system folders? That's what I was thinking about doing with that NTLDR file, but I couldn't get into MS-DOS because the Windows CD isn't working.
Even if I wanted to reinstall the whole system, I can't get the CD to boot. I'm searching online, but so far I haven't had much luck finding a solution.
I don't see why you couldn't just do that part; it would probably be your fastest fix. Before that, though, you should definitely use a Linux live disk to back up your data.
Your BIOS should be set to boot from optical media (CDROM) first, and you should see a screen like http://chara.epfl.ch/~fsalvi/Windows...ressanykey.jpg. Once you press a key, the setup should start, and then you can format the drive.
You could try repairing the system, but you'll likely just end up wasting more time.
I’d love to get an opinion from someone a bit more experienced than I am on this—maybe you've run into this before? Have you ever tried creating extra partitions only to have the process crash or just fail to finish properly? A corrupted file table isn't exactly common, so it might be a sign that something is actually wrong with the drive itself.
Have you checked the drive stats using CrystalDiskInfo? You should be able to grab a screenshot that looks something like this: http://crystalmark.info/software/Cry...mages/Main.png
On that screen, the drive health status should show up as Healthy/Good, and the little circles in the list below should all be the same color—either blue or green. If one of those circles stands out or looks different, that’s usually a red flag that the drive is struggling.
Windows updates are pretty much a cornerstone of computer security—mostly because they're how you patch up vulnerabilities within the OS. It’s true that sometimes an update might cause more headaches than it actually solves, but I guess it all comes down to weighing risk against laziness.
How you actually go about installing them depends on what kind of Windows serial key you're working with—assuming you even have one.
The damage could be pretty catastrophic, IF there was an electrical surge caused by a faulty power supply connection. At the very least, the motherboard would be fried—and honestly, it’s highly likely any connected parts like the CPU, RAM, or graphics cards went with it too.
Again, that's only IF a surge actually happened. Have you double-checked the connector orientation and the power switch?
It’s pretty hard to give much advice this far out—I just don't know what went wrong or what's actually causing the issue.
Maybe you could try eliminating variables one by one. Copy those documents and photos you definitely can't get into onto a flash drive and see if they'll open on a different computer. If you run into the same symptoms there, then you'll know the problem lies with the files themselves. You might also want to run an error-check on the drive—and I guess it wouldn't hurt to check the drive's health with CrystalDiskInfo, just to be safe.
I’m not entirely sure what you mean by "network" power supply, but I’m going to assume you're talking about a standard NYSE power supply unit that plugs into the motherboard via a 24-pin connector.
As the images show, the 24-pin connector is designed so you can't really plug it in the wrong way—the pins have two different shapes specifically to prevent that, and the clip should line up with the latch on the motherboard slot. If you somehow managed to force it in backwards, there's a chance you might have fried the motherboard.
Maybe try double-checking the orientation of the connector one more time; just make sure the first pin on the slot matches up with the first pin on the connector. If you've got the orientation right, then I guess you should check if the power button is properly connected to the motherboard.
Regarding Microsoft Word documents, you're basically looking at two main formats: .doc and .docx.
The older .doc files generally need to be opened using versions ranging from '97 up through 2013. As for .docx, those should open by default in anything from 2007 to 2013—though I guess you could install a plugin if you're stuck using 2000 or 2003.
Even an JPG file should be easy enough for a modern version of Windows to handle.
I'm still a bit skeptical about whether the data on that partition actually got scattered, but I suppose you should just keep trying things.
Is that a second partition (D🙂) or an entirely separate drive? If it’s a different drive, I'd suggest installing CrystalDiskInfo to check its health status.
Just a hunch—it feels like the data on that partition might be fragmented or corrupted, though there could be other issues at play. When you try to open those images, what kind of error does it give you? Is it just "Windows Cannot Open" or something more specific? Also, which version of Microsoft Word were those old .doc files originally created in, and which version are you using to try and open them now?
Sort your emails by date and then check if any show up with a weird timestamp—something like 01/01/1970. If they're already sorted, maybe just look at the very oldest or newest messages to see if anything looks off.