I wish I could give you a straight answer as to why that Corsair power supply isn't playing nice with that Intel motherboard—but honestly, I can only guess, especially since you mentioned they work fine in other setups.
Edit: the only other thing I can think of is grabbing a multimeter to check the 24-pin connector... just to see if all the voltages actually match what they're supposed to be. http://www.smpspowersupply.com/connectors-pinouts.html
There aren't any settings in the BIOS to toggle one power supply on while keeping the other off. From what I can gather based on your posts, you managed to get the motherboard running using the MS unit—so it seems pretty clear the issue lies with this Corsair
People gave you some solid advice—if you're getting an image via HDMI, then the GPU is clearly working, which means the connection to the laptop screen itself is the issue. Whether it's a loose ribbon cable, a motherboard problem, or something else entirely... I guess you won't know unless you crack the case open yourself or just take it to a repair shop.
Unfortunately, that’s really the whole point of encryption—making sure the password can't be cracked. I'm guessing you don't have the recovery key either, so... yeah, those data are probably gone for good.
I’m not sure which program you’re using or what exactly you're trying to print, but you might run into some issues with special characters—like those accented letters we use in America.
Since you’ve already ruled out the power supply, it’s pretty much gotta be a motherboard issue at this point. Did you plug in both the 20 or 24-pin connector to the board? Did you hook up the 4/8-pin CPU power cable? And just to double-check—is the case power button connected to the motherboard pins correctly?
Maybe try jumping the motherboard manually—just connect the power supply and the processor and see if it'll boot then.
bluemason3 said:So, I’m trying to hook up an old dot matrix printer (Epson LQ-570 +) to my PC.
I installed a Parallel port card. Everything seems fine there, as I can see the PCIe entry under multi-function controllers in Device Manager along with the new ports.
The problem is, once I actually plug the printer in, nothing happens. It's like the computer doesn't even know it exists.
Is it possible this thing is just too ancient to work? Their website doesn't offer any driver downloads for anything newer than Windows 98, and they claim support is built directly into Windows (after that, there's nothing). Since I don't have Windows XP, I can't even attempt to run it in compatibility mode.
I did find some mentions online suggesting it might be compatible with Windows 8, but I wouldn't bet the house on that being reliable.
Even if there's a compatibility issue, shouldn't the system at least recognize it as an unknown or non-functional device in the Device Manager?
Well, you mentioned you put the printer on a Parallel port, so that would be LPT1.
edit:
At 00:30, he selects the ports and chooses LPT1. What does your drop-down list of ports look like?
edit: I’m guessing it’s Windows 8 https://social.msdn.microsoft.com/Fo...previewgeneral—you'll just need to open the Parallel port instead of an IP port
If I’m reading you right, you tried letting the system auto-detect the printer. Maybe try a different route—just install it "manually."
Go to the Control Panel Control Panel open Devices and Printers Click Add Printer Add Local Printer Pick the port (LPT1) Tell it which driver to use—you might want to try the 590 model if you don't have the Epson LQ-570 + handy The rest of the steps are pretty much whatever—just hit Next When you're done, try printing a test page to see if it actually works
I'm not feeling 100% right now—so I’d rather not get into the whole drum discussion—but I think the device will stay unlocked even after a factory reset. It should be fine, but maybe try asking over on the Mobile Tech subforum just to be sure.
Your Google account and your actual device are two totally separate things.
Since your Google account and all its settings live on Google's servers—including that link to your Yahoo mail—you won't need to create a brand-new account when you get a new phone. You just log in with the one you already have.
Before you hand that old device over to your cousin, I’d suggest doing a factory reset. That’ll wipe all your personal data, including any traces of your Google account settings from the hardware itself.
When you were installing those new drivers, did you go for a clean install? I mean, did you wipe out all the traces of the old ones before running the new version?
Personally, whenever I need to scrub old graphics drivers off my system, I just use DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller). http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/...-download.html
Have you been looking at a specific Beats by Dre model? I guess you have to be careful because the genuine ones are way more expensive than $33, so you really want to make sure you don't end up with a knockoff.
For instance, check out the prices on Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=sr_pg_...I3U,B009352484
In Photoshop, there’s a tool called the Magic Wand—I used it to grab everything surrounding the text so I could just delete the rest and leave only the words behind. It might need a little more cleanup, though. You really have to play around with the Tolerance setting when you're using that tool to get it right.
If you search for "Photoshop Magic Wand" on YouTube, there are tons of videos out there—I'm just not quite sure which one is worth watching.
I just converted this to grayscale and messed around with the brightness, contrast, and gamma correction—did it all right in Windows Photo Viewer, though I guess you could use anything elsewhere.
Example two:
I played around with the fuzzy select tool in GIMP—could have used Photoshop too—but honestly, I didn't really feel like manually erasing all those tiny dots and filling in the gaps inside the letters.
All in all, I probably wasted about 30 minutes on both of these—someone more skilled could likely get a better result in way less time.
A power supply test? Not really—you could maybe check if the actual voltages match what’s listed on the label, but you'd really need to do that while the system is under load. Values at idle can be misleadingly fine sometimes.
Again, I'm just saying, it's pretty tough to make an accurate diagnosis from this far away.
Regarding the motherboard—it doesn't really matter if you go with an AMD or Nvidia card—what actually matters is the type of slot available and how much power you have under the hood. Since your board has a PCI-E 2.0 x16 slot, just look for PCI-E cards. That 430W power supply might only become an issue if you decide to pick up a high-end card that pulls a ton of wattage.
As for the wireless adapter: http://www.dlink.com.my/support/supp...?idProduct=505
The reason I asked about the power supply is because it’s a bit suspicious that two different pieces of hardware—the drive and the GPU—both failed on you. It’s hard to give a definitive diagnosis just guessing here, but I'm leaning toward either the PSU or the motherboard being the culprit. I assume you aren't dealing with any weird issues with the local power grid, like tripping breakers or voltage surges?
