Posts by George Sanders37

What's the weight of that thin paper—and are we talking about standard US sizes like Letter or Tabloid?

Honestly, I'm running out of ideas here—especially since your service is being extinguished. Maybe you could try bridging the connections?
http://www.wikihow.com/Bridge-an-Internet-Connection

Maybe try checking your BIOS settings first.
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Wireles...d/td-p/3382887

Which version of Windows are we talking about here?
Just to clarify—in this context, "tethering" means connecting a laptop to a phone, whereas "reverse tethering" is when you connect the phone to the laptop.

If you're looking to connect your phone to your laptop, I think the term you're actually searching for is "reverse tethering."
Since you mentioned you've already given it a shot—I'm not sure if you happened to come across these specific links yet;
http://mobileoffice.about.com/od/pho...connection.htm
http://www.t2lead.in/how-to-make-wi-...topswindows-8/
http://superuser.com/questions/43462...-to-my-android

Regarding the GPU memory addressing issue—I guess the only real way to tackle that would be to grab a BIOS update directly from the manufacturer's website.
http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H81M-...wnload&os=BIOS

It’ll be a whole lot easier to track down the right drivers if you just look up the MAC address.

http://www.wikihow.com/Find-Hardware-ID (you'll probably need to have the device plugged in while you're doing this—it will likely show up as an unknown device since the drivers aren't installed yet)

So, the adapter is basically just a paperweight now.
I'd suggest picking up your next one from a place where getting a refund, an exchange, or a repair won't be such a headache—eBay can be pretty hit-or-miss when it comes to electronics.

You didn't specify which keyboard model you're using, but based on what you described, it looks like two vertical columns are acting up—specifically 5-T-G-B and 6-Z-H-N. I guess it would be worth checking if the same thing happens when you hit T and G, or Z and H?

Usually, these kinds of issues pop up with older keyboards or maybe if there was some kind of liquid spill involved. Did the keyboard get wet at all?

Most likely, yeah.

According to Google, it's a TP-Link chip. I'm just not sure which specific TP-Link model would be the right match—they have quite a few different ones out there. If you plug in the USB\VID_148F&PID_7601&REV_0000, it might pull up some drivers, but honestly, the websites I found didn't seem very reliable.

Have you tried anything else yet? I noticed you mentioned you already attempted to use some drivers.

Try pulling the Hardware ID through Device Manager—that might help us track down some alternative drivers. But honestly, based on those symptoms you mentioned, I think the USB Wi-Fi Adapter might just be toast.

http://dellwindowsreinstallationguid...evice-manager/

So now we're looking at a price tag somewhere around $130-$150 plus.
http://www.nabava.net/pisaci__110?&se=1698,172735

That’s basically double what you'd pay for an inkjet option. Besides—those starter toner cartridges on entry-level lasers don't really yield many pages before they run out.

If you ask me, an inkjet might actually end up being the more cost-effective route—you just can't afford to forget about the ink costs this time.

Carl Bennett8 said:I gave it a good couple of solid whacks, and then it just restarts and kicks back to life...

🤦
My advice? Maybe open up the PC and reseat all the components—it sounds like a loose connection issue. Or, I don't know, just hit it harder next time. Whatever works for you. 👍.

There are some budget lasers where replacing the toner—assuming you stick to the originals—basically costs as much as buying a whole new printer;

Samsung SL-M2022
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+printer

or

HP LaserJet Pro P1102
https://www.staples.com/hp-laserjet

or

Canon i-SENSYS LBP6020
https://www.bestbuy.com/canon-printer

For instance, a compatible toner for the Samsung might run you about $67 for 1,000 pages https://www.amazon.com/s?k=MLT-D111S while the HP one is around $33 for 1,600 pages https://www.amazon.com/s?k=HP+85A, and the Canon is pretty similar to the HP price point https://www.amazon.com/s?k=canon+725

The next tier up would be printers starting at $333+, where the toners generally offer a higher page yield per cartridge.

Nathan Allen said:I know—I've installed this stuff a hundred times, but I've never run into this issue before.

There aren't really that many reasons why this wouldn't work. If your boot order is set up right, and you're hitting F8 at the right moment, but it still won't boot from that CD/DVD... then the disc itself is likely the problem. Maybe try downloading something else that's bootable—like a live Linux distro (Knoppix or Ubuntu) or a live utility disc like Hiren's. If those boot up fine, then you'll know exactly where the issue lies.

When you run - what?

If your boot order is set to prioritize the optical drive, then that CD/DVD you're trying to use for the installation probably isn't bootable.

And then, on top of all that, the dollar exchange rate just shot up

You’ll need to jump into the BIOS and adjust the boot order—basically making sure the optical drive is set to boot first.

http://pcsupport.about.com/od/fixthe...m#step-heading
http://www.howtogeek.com/129815/begi...omputers-bios/

They might not be cheaper upfront, but they can just sit there without printing—whereas with an inkjet, you'll probably need to run a few pages through at least once a week. In the long run, if you're forgetful like me, getting a laser printer is probably more worth it 😁.