Constant beeping usually points to either the GPU or the RAM—I guess. Try pulling the memory sticks out of their slots, maybe blow out some dust if things got messy during cleaning, and then seat them back in. You should probably pull the graphics card out and reseat that too.
restlessbear34 said:I'm looking to pick up a new printer. I just need something straightforward for printing a few pages here and there—maybe some scanning too—and ideally something that won't drain ink constantly. Looking for a bit of a best buy. I don't really have a brand preference or anything. I don't need Wi-Fi or networking features.
I used to have a Canon, but the print head died. The repair guy told me it’d actually be cheaper to just grab a whole new machine than try to fix the head. I didn't leave it plugged in all the time—only when I needed it—so I'm thinking maybe the ink just dried up and there's nothing I can do about it.
Budget is around $500— $200.
Any help would be appreciated. 😉
Are you aware that the same thing might happen if you go with another inkjet? So, I guess... would you rather stick with an inkjet or move to a laser printer?
Do you hear crackling when you wiggle the headphone wire? If so, there’s probably a break somewhere in the cable itself. You can usually find the exact spot by slowly moving the cord—just feeling it inch by inch—to see where the noise kicks in. It typically happens near the connectors at either end.
Static can also happen if the jack isn't seated properly in the port, or maybe if the plug itself is just low quality. I'd suggest testing the port with a different pair of headphones, and then checking those noisy headphones on another device, like a MacBook or an iPhone, just to rule out a faulty jack.
DayZ recommended requirements: CPU: Intel Core i5-2300 or AMD Phenom II x4 940 or better RAM: 4 GB OS: Windows 7 Video Card: Nvidia GeForce GTX 560 or AMD Radeon HD 7750 with 1 GB VRAM or better
CS: GO Recommended Requirements: Intel CPU: Quad-Core Intel Core i5 @ 2.66GHz AMD CPU: Quad-Core AMD Phenom II @ 2.5GHz RAM: 4 GB NVidia GPU: Nvidia GTX 500 or greater AMD GPU: Nvidia GPU : Nvidia GT series or greater OS: Windows 7 64-bit (SP1) DirectX: DirectX 11 HDD Space: 4GB
If you're just playing these specific games, I guess you won't need any more RAM than that.
mistypilot9 said:He’s looking for a GPU right now—but I guess if it turns out he needs a new power supply, the kid will just pick one up later..
Everyone keeps pushing for a new PSU just because—if he puts in a beefier card and the current unit fails under load—it could potentially fry the motherboard too. That might end up costing way more than just buying a new power supply in the first place.
Honestly, I can only speculate at this point. That "File is not valid" error is pretty vague—it could be caused by just about anything. Maybe try using a different optical media burning program, like Nero (https://cdburnerxp.se/), just to see if it can handle the image you downloaded.
I thought I had worked with this specific navigation system before, but I guess I was mistaken—it was one from Ford Motor Company that used CDs too, but back then, the instructions were actually available online.
Anthony Hayes82 said:I don't know. Now I'm stuck in this position where I can't sell my laptop, yet I'm also not allowed to spend my paycheck on anything remotely fun—all while my old man sits there planning exactly how he’s going to use my earnings to pay off his own debts... I guess that's just how it is.
So, that's pretty much everything regarding my plans. 😢
I'm sorry to hear that.
Don't give up on streaming or Let's Play videos if you're actually interested—just start with something that doesn't get played constantly. There are tons of old-school classics out there that don't even need a high-end rig, and they rarely get picked up anymore. You'll have way less competition that way, and it'll give you a chance to see how the whole thing works. Right now, everyone seems to be streaming League of Legends, DOTA, or CS, which basically just means people prefer watching PvP over PvE. It's kind of like GTA—most people just watch the multiplayer chaos or people messing around rather than the actual game itself.
You need to decide which language niche you're going after. Since everyone knows English, you get the widest possible audience—but honestly, that market is just incredibly oversaturated. I've seen some attempts from local Twitch streamers and YouTubers trying to stick to regional content, though I'm not entirely sure how much traction they actually get. It feels like a bit of a market gap, even if our domestic market is a little small to really capitalize on it.
Don't just stick to those standard Let's Play videos. You know—headphones on, playing the game, glancing at the chat every thirty seconds to say something, and just repeating the same cycle. I'm honestly getting pretty tired of seeing that everywhere. If you actually put on a Batman costume and did the whole commentary in his voice—assuming you can really get into the character—you’d probably stand out from everyone else. 😁Maybe it wasn't the best call—but I’m doubling down.
If you’re planning to get into livestreaming or starting a YouTube channel, you really need to find a niche—a gap in the market. There are just way too many Let's Play channels out there on both platforms right now.
Regardless of what kind of PC setup you have, if you were thinking about streaming Grand Theft Auto V, everyone and their grandmother is already doing that—plus, Grand Theft Auto V has been on consoles for so long that it's hard to find anyone still interested in watching it. For games that massive, you actually have to bring something unique to the table that nobody else is offering.
The only thing I can really think of is rolling the system back using a system restore point (http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/w...system-restore).
I'm not sure when you last made a restore point—or if you’ve even used one before—but just a heads-up: besides fixing those renamed icons, it'll revert a lot of other settings too, so maybe be careful with that.
Otherwise, I guess you'll just have to do what Bucky suggested.
Christian Thompson11 said:A couple of questions here: 1. Do you think the issue is with the drive's circuit board? 2. Could this be a mechanical failure—like, maybe the drive isn't spinning at all, making it impossible to read data?
1. Based on the symptoms you described, it’s very likely the electronics. 2. It’s not impossible, I guess, but mechanical failures aren't actually that common. Usually, if there's a mechanical issue, the read/write head crashes onto the platter—you'd hear some grinding sounds, and then the drive is basically toast. Actual rotor issues are pretty rare.
How important is the data on this drive? If it's not critical, personally, I wouldn't bother replacing the PCB since there's no guarantee it'll fix everything. But if the data is vital... well, professional data recovery services are incredibly expensive, so maybe attempting a fix with the electronics could be an option.
As far as I know, once you decline, they probably won't ask you about that email again. Just send over a new one—maybe just a quick note confirming you got the original message.
It feels like there might be some intermittent electronic issue going on—like it’s working one second and failing the next. It could be the motherboard's disk controller, maybe even some faulty circuitry on the drives themselves.
I can't say for sure without testing it, though. Are all the connectors on the motherboard and the drives actually seated firmly? You might want to check if any solder joints have gone bad, too. It would probably be a good idea to run a scan on the drives using some bootable tools (maybe Hirens, UltimateBootCD, or something similar).
I think we still need to figure out if there are other replaceable components besides just the toner—things they usually call maintenance kits, fuser kits, or transfer kits.
To reiterate, on larger printers, ghosting is usually caused by issues within those specific kits because excess powder isn't being scraped off completely. I’m not an expert on this particular model, though—so I don't know if it even uses these types of kits or how much of that hardware is integrated directly into the toner cartridge itself.
If those extra kits are required, they can get pretty pricey, even for smaller desktop printers. And if someone hasn't swapped them out personally before, they'll probably need to hire a pro—either a technician or a repair shop—which adds another layer of cost. I worry we might be getting close to the point where it just isn't worth fixing.
Since these little printers usually have everything built right into the toner cartridge—you know, the stuff that would normally be separate kits like the drum or transfer unit—it’s possible the issue might just clear up once he swaps out the toner.
Thomas Diaz5 said:Wait, what do you mean, "not by the Holy Spirit"?!? Oh, you little skeptics! If you had faith the size of a mustard seed, you could move mountains! Give me three shots of whiskey and five tacos and just watch me go...
Come on now, don't be scared; just because the document content is religious doesn't mean I'm gonna jump out and ambush you like a Jehovah's Witness... 🤣
But seriously; how am I supposed to "see" what's actually breaking? If I grab a Chinese character from a PDF and paste it into Microsoft Word—it stays exactly the same. But if I paste that one specific, unlucky "ć"—bam—it turns into a "d".
Not necessarily. http://stackoverflow.com/questions/2...t-in-pdf-files http://www.wordbanter.com/showthread.php?t=72 http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/.../t-666116.html and so on.
So, like wiredcanyon94 mentioned, the issue probably lies with the text encoding, the tool used to generate the PDF, the original font, or just how the PDF handles text storage. For one of those reasons, it’s interpreting the "ći" combo as "di" during a copy-paste.
How old is this printer, and roughly how many pages has it put through so far?
When you see ghosting on the text with these larger machines, it usually means it's time for some maintenance—the transfer kit probably isn't scraping off all the excess toner anymore, which leaves those shadows behind.