We can't really give you much help until we know which motherboard you're working with. Try downloading Yahoo (https://www.piriform.com/speccy) to check the specific model of your board.
Generally speaking, there were some hybrid motherboards out there that supported both DDR2 and DDR3—though they couldn't run both types at the same time—but those are pretty rare, I guess.
The thing is, you really need to figure out if the motherboard is actually shot. Any repair shop is going to charge you for the diagnostic alone. In a best-case scenario, maybe it’s just a capacitor on the board that needs replacing—but honestly, it's rare to find someone willing to deal with motherboard soldering these days, and if they do, you're paying a premium for it.
As far as I know, there isn't really any software-based way to diagnose a motherboard.
I’m just going to echo what fadedorca66 suggested;
fadedorca66 said:If I were you, I'd just set those $17 aside and start saving up for a whole new tower. Honestly? You might grab those RAM sticks only to realize they aren't even compatible. Or maybe they work, but then you find out your hard drive is acting up. Or it's the motherboard, or the power supply... it’s a rabbit hole. Before you know it, you've bought new RAM and now you need something else. It's a money pit, and you can probably find a prebuilt on Newegg for $167 that would run circles around this setup anyway.
Try holding down the Fn key and look for the keys marked with blue letters—those are your brightness controls. Based on this image http://www.ruggedpcreview.com/images...tion_large.jpg, you'll probably see an Up and Down arrow—one should handle the brightness adjustment automatically
If you're dealing with an .mkv file, you can just grab a tool like Handbrake (https://www.bunkus.org/videotools/mkvtoolnix/) to mess around with the files inside. This works if the movie actually has two separate audio tracks—say, English and Spanish—rather than just one single track where everything is baked together.
If it’s an .mp4, there are editors out there too, but I don't really use them, I guess.
You mentioned you already tried some things, but one possible fix for that steamui.dll error might be this If your processor doesn't support SSE2 (you can double-check that with CPU-ID), then I guess none of the methods in this thread will work for you. You should probably look here instead: http://steamcommunity.com/discussion...5136051112046/ or maybe http://steamcommunity.com/discussion...8415060731415/
Since you admitted your Windows installation is pretty much a mess, I suppose a real solution would just be reinstalling Windows XP from scratch and then running all the updates.
Do you have every single update installed for Windows XP (Service Pack 3 and everything released after that)? And how clean is the Windows setup on that machine?
I'm guessing you're talking about this company: Since you bought the whole setup from them, I'd definitely suggest reaching out—maybe hit up their support team or a sales rep directly. They'll probably be your fastest bet for getting this sorted. It sounds like a hardware issue, which I guess is something you won't be able to fix yourself, especially when it comes to migrating data.
Especially since we're dealing with official IRS tax receipts here.
Maybe you could just stick with Windows XP for now—and let me know which specific apps aren't updating on Windows XP? I'm curious why those updates are actually necessary for you.
It doesn't matter if you're on a student budget—even for me, working a full-time job, I still want to buy something decent, so your mindset is spot on 👍. Most people don't bother to research nearly even 10% of what you have.
One last thing to consider—every printer, even laser ones, uses rubber rollers to pull the paper through. Since they're made of rubber, they eventually wear down. Or, if you don't print much, they can dry out and lose their grip. That’s usually why you start seeing issues like crooked feeding or the machine grabbing three or four sheets at once. Luckily, the rollers themselves are cheap, but—unfortunately—actually replacing them is almost impossible if you aren't used to taking a printer apart.
Good luck with the purchase, and definitely let us know how it goes.
I took a quick look at the official site—for the HP LaserJet, they only list ink and cartridges under that section, but for the Brother HL series, they’re being pretty cagey about those details. Looking through this document http://www.arbikas.com/view/locator/WC3045.pdf, it seems like the 3040 only lists a fuser, though I guess every laser printer has one—it's just the part that melts the ink onto the page—but there's no mention of a drum kit anywhere.
Having Wi-Fi is a nice little perk, and the cost per page on a laser is definitely worth it—we usually end up paying around $100 for every 10,000 pages we print.
As for the 3040 model, I'm not sure if you guys have seen the user reviews over on the official site http://www.office.xerox.com/printers...iews-enus.html.
Edit: I did a bit more digging for info on the 3020, but I mostly just found some stuff on European forums. People seem generally happy with it—the only real complaint I saw was about the noise level(?).
Definitely try using a different cable—or maybe just test your current one on another device to see if that changes anything. It’s probably not the cable itself (if it were, I guess you wouldn't be able to transfer data or charge the tablet at all), but honestly, weirder things have happened.
I'm not too familiar with those specific models, but Xerox and Canon are solid brands when it comes to laser printing.
At my office, we run four Canon MFP units—you know, the whole copier, printer, scanner setup—costing anywhere from $10,000 up to $10. We’ve been really happy with them. Our oldest unit is about six years old and has clocked over 600,000 prints, yet it still only needs routine annual service.
Regarding printers that use dedicated fuser, drum, and other maintenance kits—I'd probably steer clear of those for home use. Replacing those parts gets expensive fast. On our commercial machines, we usually do a regular service once a year after roughly 70,000 to 100,000 prints, and that costs somewhere between $2,000 and $1.75, depending on which components need replacing. We actually have an old HP color laser printer that uses similar easy-swap fuser and drum kits, but we eventually gave up on it because each kit was running $500-$$233.
I suspect replacing the drum kit on those Xerox machines might be pretty pricey, though I did find some third-party replacements on eBay for around $70. There are also certain tricks people use to bypass those kits since they have internal page counters that can cause perfectly good hardware to stop working prematurely (for instance, http://hackaday.com/2011/04/18/xerox...t-another-day/).
Personally, I'd go with the Canon. In my experience, a printer is usually something you buy and then just leave on your desk for years, so I'd suggest avoiding the headache of high drum and fuser replacement costs.
Sorry if this is a bit long-winded—I just wanted to share as much info as I could.
Disk defrag usually restarts whenever there's a new write operation—basically, the system realizes new data has hit the drive and decides to start over from scratch. Based on what you're seeing, it seems like Windows thinks it's constantly writing something new to the disk.
Is your Windows installation clean? I mean, have you checked for viruses, trojans, or any other malware?
I remember back when I was using Windows XP, if you ran into this exact issue—where the defrag just kept resetting infinitely—you could sometimes fix it by booting into Safe Mode and running the defrag from there. I'm not entirely sure if that same trick works for Windows 7 or when dealing with external drives, though.
edit: tried running defrag in Windows 7 Safe Mode, but it didn't work. http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/w...a-6e513935ce5f
If you search Google for that specific error—"Cannot copy. The device has either stopped responding or has been disconnected"—you'll find a ton of people dealing with the exact same thing. The real headache is that there isn't one single fix that works for everyone.
We can only really suggest the usual troubleshooting steps;
1.) Try plugging the tablet directly into a USB port on your PC via cable—avoid using hubs or anything like that. If it's a desktop, try a port directly on the motherboard. 2.) Maybe try a different USB cable. 3.) You could try doing a factory reset on the device. 4.) If the tablet is running a custom ROM, you might need to revert back to the stock firmware (I think that's what they call it for tablets, I don't follow all this closely anymore). 5.) If there's an SD card in the tablet and you're trying to write data to it, try taking it out, cleaning it, and then resetting the device.
Here's some stuff I came across online;
Problem: Ever since version 4.1.2 at least, the phone/Android/obb folders have been write-protected when using an MTP connection. Solution: Use MTP to copy the files to a different directory first. Then, on the phone itself, use any file explorer—even just "My Files"—to move them into the folder you actually want.
Personally, if you're using Android file transfer, I've found it to be pretty buggy and frustrating. I ended up switching to using FileZilla to move files over via FTP, which is more reliable. Someone else also mentioned AirDroid, which has a web UI, though I still prefer standard FTP.
Timothy Kim60 said:IMO, jumping from a GTX 660 to an R9 280 isn't really worth it. It's faster, sure, but maybe not enough of a jump to justify the cost. As for RAM—I guess 8GB is plenty for gaming right now.
Regarding waiting—if you aren't in a huge rush, maybe hold off until summer. New AMD cards should be dropping then, along with the GTX 960Ti/965 series.
First off, thanks everyone for the input, I appreciate 👍 I think I'll just wait a while longer—for now, I'll stick with what I have. If I wanted to play heavy AAA titles, I’d probably look into a GPU upgrade, but the demanding games I actually care about won't even be out until later this year... which gives me enough time to wait for the next generation. 😛
Picked this up late in December 2012 over at Accenture. The receipt shows a 36-month warranty on the graphics card—so I guess that leaves about 9 months left.
David Sanders4 said:That said—if you aren't bothered by playing on a GTX 660, there isn't really any rush to swap it out. It still holds its own at 1080p with ultra settings—getting maybe 30fps or so.
Honestly, that's my biggest dilemma right now. Everything I play currently runs just fine—at least for what I'm interested in. Nothing on the upcoming release schedule really catches my eye. The suggestion regarding an AMD Radeon R9 280/290 is noted. In your opinion, what do you think I could get for my current card in a resale? http://www.msi.com/product/vga/N660_...#hero-overview
Basically, since the card uses one of those TP-Link chipsets for its Wi-Fi, your best bet is probably just checking their official website for the driver.
I haven't really kept up with new hardware for quite a while now—so I could probably use some advice or just a second opinion on whether I should upgrade my current setup or just wait. I originally picked this rig up as a gaming PC back in December 2012.
I'm guessing the biggest upgrades would be the graphics card and/or more RAM. I wonder how much sense it makes to grab maybe two more 4GB sticks? From what I can tell, the board has two PCI-E x16 slots—though the primary one where the GPU sits is 3.0, while the second one is 2.0. The manual mentions support for ATI Crossfire, but it doesn't say anything about NVIDIA SLI🤔. I'm honestly pretty clueless when it comes to GPUs—I've always been 😛
If you think there's something else worth swapping out, please let me know. Any input helps, I guess. 😁
Please shrink the image, or you might end up getting a warning—or even a ban—from the moderators
Go into the Device Manager, right-click on the device you're looking for—in your case, the USB Wi-Fi adapter—hit properties, then go to the Driver tab, and select update driver. From there, choose to browse my computer locally for the driver, and just navigate to the folder you showed in your screenshot