Posts by Roger Gray8

A. Purpose: This features a built-in demo mode specifically designed for in-store sales displays.
B. Apple:
i. It dynamically splits the screen into two vertical frames separated by a single 2-pixel wide white line. The
left side gets the full enhancement from Adobe, while the right side just shows the standard performance.
ii. You'll see an OSD overlay that says “Adobe On” on the left and “Adobe Off” on the right.
iii. The OSD text is white with a transparent background.
C. The demo uses the “entertainment profile setting.”
D. How to trigger it:
Just hold down the [Smart Image] button for at least 3 seconds to kick off the demo mode. Once you're in, if you want to get out, just press 3
seconds or more to turn OFF The demo mode. While the mode is active, the blue LED will
flash to let you know, though that doesn't apply to this specific model.

I dug through the manual and found all this, but honestly, it isn't helping me at all... anyone got any ideas?

So I finally managed to sort out my GPU issues, but now I’m dealing with this annoying headache involving my monitor.




I mean, if you watch the video, you can see exactly what I'm talking about—this screen tearing just pops up whenever I toggle the Adobe on and off, and then it just hangs there for a while. On top of that, the auto-adjustment feature keeps triggering itself out of nowhere! I even tried holding down the button for about ten seconds—you know, the one for the Adobe and the menu—but absolutely nothing happened.
It gets even weirder because no matter which button I hit, it just cycles through the inputs instead of actually opening the menu... plus, I can't even shut the thing off using the power button anymore!

🤔

William Richardson12 said:Sweet. If things actually stop crashing for once, we might be in business... 👍

She ran 20 minutes of the FurMark stress test at 1150MHz, and it didn't even break 67°C.

William Richardson12 said:Got a tip from someone who knows more than I do: "tell him to set the core clock to 1100 MHz and the memory clock to 1250 MHz in Afterburner." Give that a shot... might be some weird driver issue tripping it up when it switches from idle to full load.

Also: "make sure he grabs the latest beta drivers for that thing."

Nah, that's not even it. It was probably just the thermal paste, right? Now that it's been repasted, it's running smooth as silk.

William Richardson12 said:Look, just go hunt down a stable driver for your GPU manually. Old ones, new ones, whatever... drivers and Catalyst can be a total mess sometimes. Just install them, test them out, and once you find one that actually works, stick with it.😁

Wait, did you seriously not mention that?

@fadedorca66, the fan is spinning like crazy.

Because like I was saying, if I push it up by even 400MHz, the whole thing just overheats and crashes.

Quick update: I’ve been digging around online and it looks like everyone is dealing with this exact same headache... basically, the second my GPU hits full load at 1150MHz, it just overheats and dies on me. I keep getting that annoying "display driver stopped working" error message. If I somehow manage to keep it running at a measly 400MHz, then I can actually play stuff, and even though MSI Kombustor works at that speed, the performance is honestly terrible—I mean, I can run Fallout 3 on Ultra at 75fps if I throttle it down to 400MHz, and GTA V stays around 40-60fps with decent settings, but it’s painfully obvious the card is capable of so much more than this.

How do I fix this mess? And also, is it possible to install drivers without using Catalyst? I’m starting to suspect the issue lies somewhere within BBB.

Intel A10 6790k, 4GB RAM, VTX3D Radeon 7770 1GB X-Edition, PSU: Seasonic 430W 80+ Bronze.
http://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/b47...x-edition.html
I was thinking maybe it’s a power supply issue, but wouldn't the entire PC just shut down if that were the case?

So, it just throws an error saying the display driver crashed and recovered... though sometimes I actually have to hard reboot the whole computer (especially when I was testing it in Kombustor). Even when I drop the clock speed down to just 575MHz, the thing still crashes out on me...

Seriously guys, help me out here—do you think I should try repasting the card?

So, I've got this 7700 VTX that a buddy just handed over to me...
Man, it is absolutely overheating today, like seriously. I was playing Fallout 3 last night for hours and the temps never even touched 68°C, but today it's spiking past 100°C and just crashing straight back to my desktop...

I'm checking MSI Afterburner, and it shows the GPU1 clock speed at 1150MHz, but then I remember that when I was gaming yesterday, it was only showing 400MHz? I honestly have no clue what's going on here.

Basically—yesterday I could game for hours, but today I can't even last five minutes before it dies...

Edit: Okay, looking closer at Afterburner, the clock stays at 400MHz and when it does that, it doesn't overheat... but if it somehow manages to jump up to a real 1150MHz, then it starts cooking itself. The games actually run fine at 400MHz, stuff like GTA V, Fallout 4, and Fallout 3...

It's just so weird to me that it keeps reading only 400MHz.

And now, it's not overheating again... because the clock is stuck at 400MHz (that's it).

Jose Ruiz26 said:I'm honestly not sure how Windows 10 is going to handle running on just 2GB of RAM and a Core 2 Duo 2.8, especially since my rig is getting a little old, you know? Even though the specs say 2GB is the recommended amount, I'm just staring at it thinking... 😁 I'm seriously considering giving it a shot, but I really need to check out the hardware requirements first.

EDIT: Actually, maybe I should move this over to a different thread.

Well, it'll definitely be an improvement over Windows 7, regardless! Just go for it—you haven't got anything to lose, right?

Jose Ruiz26 said:Look, I didn't say it was definitely true, I just said I heard rumors about it...
Honestly, I was just reading some stuff over on TechCrunch regarding pirated software and games.
Seriously though, don't even get me started on LP 😁 :P ..

That's just not right, man. It's basically just bad reporting. That whole thing only applies to the stuff tied to the Xbox app—you know, the Microsoft-specific titles—but it doesn't touch third-party games at all.

Jose Ruiz26 said:Well, that didn't really do anything for me. On my machine, Mozilla and Chrome just absolutely devour my RAM within minutes, so I end up having to kill them or they just crash out on me entirely—though weirdly enough, I haven't had any issues using Opera. As for Windows, I've heard people say 8.1 is way faster, but I honestly couldn't stand the UI. Regarding Windows 10, I'm just sitting tight until SP2 or SP3 rolls around, especially since I heard rumors about them being able to block pirated software and games (which is definitely not what I want) and potentially tracking everything you do on your PC. So yeah, I think I'll hold off for a bit before I actually dive into it.

btw, does your signature have something to do with that Linkin Park song or is it just totally random? 😁

SP1 isn't coming anytime soon, if it ever even happens, because Windows 10 doesn't handle updates quite like that.
What are you even talking about, it's better than Windows 7 and 8.1 combined. If you don't want it, well, your loss.

You totally misheard that, they aren't going to ban anything... seriously, where do you guys get this nonsense?
They can, just like they can track you on 7 or 8.1... especially now that they've released those updates for 7 and 8 that actually improve those features.
You can just turn that stuff off.

Are you one of those people who just reads the headline and nothing else?

That's just straight-up nonsense, man. Forget Linkin Park.

Walter Wilson56 said:I actually did a fresh install of Windows 7 just a few days before I upgraded, so my PC isn't cluttered with any unnecessary junk or anything. If I can't figure this out in the next day or two, I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and go for a full clean install. But for right now, I'm really hoping someone can help me crack this problem once and for all.

A clean installation of Windows 10 is going to be key here...

Honestly, the issue is almost certainly the drivers, so why don't you try rolling back to some older versions first? Let's start there and see if we can get somewhere.

Jose Ruiz26 said:I was running Windows 7 Ultimate back in the day, and honestly, I used to have CCleaner, but the whole thing just felt like a total scam to me.

🤣🤣🤣🤣

By what metric even?🤔 I mean, the software is famous worldwide, and it isn't some shady bloatware you accidentally download by clicking "next" too fast unless you're actually paying attention...

But look, I'm really not buying that it’s going to magically fix all your issues, because at the end of the day, it's mostly just going to clear out your cache and cookies and call it a day.

And honestly, Meta is being a complete pain in my neck right now too.

Oh, and I don't know about you, but I always found that after a week or so, whatever browser I was using would slow down so much that I'd practically have to kill the process and restart it just to get things moving again. I never had that headache on 8.1 or 10, so I never even felt the urge to go back to 7—maybe that's actually what's causing your lag.

Sure, it’s technically doable, but it’s definitely not the same experience. macOS (or whatever version you're aiming for) is designed to run flawlessly on very specific hardware configurations because that’s how it's optimized. You also run a real risk of certain hardware components just refusing to work altogether. People usually call those setups "Hackintoshes"... but the bottom line is you need a very specific set of parts to even stand a chance. Having an Intel chip is a solid starting point, but honestly, I’m not even sure if a Radeon card will play nice with it.

You can find plenty of tutorials online, so really, all you need is enough willpower and some free time—plus, you absolutely have to check if your current rig is even compatible first. Just Google it, you'll find what you need.
Also, it's worth mentioning that you're going to need a completely blank drive... like, totally empty! Not just a spare partition, but a whole dedicated disk that you can partition out later if you want to...

Anyway, it's a massive headache and feels pretty pointless to me. If you actually want this experience, just go buy a Mac then. ☕

Jose Ruiz26 said:I totally get where you're coming from, but why is it just happening on Meta?
I’m always running Disk Cleanup because honestly, I can’t be bothered downloading a bunch of random cleaners, but it looks like I might actually have to. I also did a fresh install of Windows just a few months ago.

Meta is constantly glitching out, seriously. But if this keeps happening to you, who knows what the actual root cause is... Disk Cleanup isn't going to cut it, but CCleaner is a pretty solid little tool and won't mess anything up—I've been using it for years.

Which version of Windows are you running?

Honestly, just grab CCleaner and give your system a good scrub. There’s just so much junk piling up in there, isn't there?

Sam Peterson6 said:I just grabbed the media creation tool and I'm currently running the upgrade to Windows 10 (it's been over 2 hours and it's still chugging along)
Once this upgrade finishes, where am I supposed to find the actual install file if I want to do a totally clean installation of Windows 10?

Man, that sounds suspiciously slow to me, though I can't say for sure since I've never actually tried doing an upgrade myself.
But hey, "media creation"—the name pretty much tells you exactly what it does... you're creating the media to install from...

Sam Peterson6 said:Alright, I've made up my mind—I'm gonna try to install Windows 10 (doing a full format on the C drive🙂), but I could really use some help here.
I ended up on this page and I'm totally lost on which option to pick:
the 32-bit tool
OR
the 64-bit tool

64-bit, definitely.

But honestly, you should realize you're probably looking at doing this twice—once if you go the upgrade route, and again if you decide to just do a clean install. Personally, I think the clean install is the way to go because I read everywhere online, and even all over these US forums, that people who just do an upgrade deal with super slow boot times and a ton of annoying bugs. Meanwhile, for those of us who just jump straight to a clean install and activate it with KMSpico, we basically don't run into any issues at all... so, do you want the upgrade just to get it activated, or do you want a clean install so you can actually relax and not complain about stuff not working the way it's supposed to? 😬the installation is actually pretty fast though, takes maybe 20 minutes or so

I'm actually planning to just do an upgrade next June so I can snag that product key, haha!

Look, just because it says "10" doesn't mean it's some massive beast to handle; if anything, it's actually the opposite, even though everyone is officially facing the exact same requirements since last week—honestly, the 7 version is the hungriest for resources out there, so you're really looking at 8 followed by 10 as the easiest ones to manage...

Basically, you just head over to the Microsoft site, grab their media creation tool, hit that "upgrade this PC now" button, and boom—you're set for life. Once that's done, though, I’d really suggest doing a clean install—meaning you wipe the C: drive and install everything fresh from a USB stick—because after an upgrade, things can get pretty buggy and weird sometimes.

I honestly don't get why you're even thinking about rolling back to 7...? Like, why would you do that when you have such a much better option right in front of you—Windows 10? I mean, sure, 7 should still technically function just fine, but if you really want my honest take, you should definitely look into upgrading to either 8.1 or 10... though personally, I'd say go straight for 10...

wiredcanyon94 said:I might be asking a total moron question here, but what on earth is an "internet manager"?

Oh, you mean that software from AT&T or Verizon