Why are you even surprised? That's just standard behavior for Battlefield 3 and Minecraft... honestly, it's probably too small 😂 🤣 I mean, check only YouTube... I don't know, just look at how much RAM Firefox, Chrome, or whatever else you've got running is eating up... if it isn't that, then maybe Flash Player is hogging it... who knows 🤷
crimsonlynx25 said:The thing is, I think someone pulled on the wire too hard and messed everything up. When I wiggle or tug at the cable a bit, the sound sometimes comes back to normal... Does anyone know where I could find a repair shop in Washington, D.C. that handles this kind of stuff? Thanks.
So yeah, it's just a bad connection. I don't really know anyone in Washington, D.C. who does repairs like this... maybe try opening them up and repositioning the wire? Just don't be too aggressive about it, unless you want to use some superglue or something lol.
Check which process is eating up most of your CPU. If you aren't sure, just throw a screenshot of Task Manager in here. Maybe run an antivirus scan and let me know what comes up...
Larry Ortiz5 said:I'm not entirely sure, but maybe check if you can set the primary graphics to the "PCIE slot" in the BIOS. Save those settings and see if anything actually changes. Basically, you plug into the integrated graphics first, find that option in the BIOS, and save your changes.
Tried that. Went into Advanced, chipset settings or whatever... then Primary graphics something... I don't really remember exactly. It was on PCI, so I switched it to PCI-E. Saved and exited, shut the PC down, unplugged the integrated card, swapped in the HD5450, turned it back on, everything seems fine except there's nothing on the screen. Just getting an amber light on the monitor (you know, when there's no signal).😠
hey there so, I just put together a PC... typing this on it right now my monitor is hooked up to the integrated graphics (a GeForce 6100 256mb) I power down, swap in a Sapphire HD5450 512mb, then boot it up all the fans spin up, but the screen stays totally black Of course I'm using a standard VGA cable to the monitor... Tried a different VGA cable too, nothing works Tested the card in another PC, and it works fine Tried a different GPU in my rig, and that works fine too
My PSU is 300W, and honestly, I can't really afford a new one right now... But I tested the PSU in another build with a 230W unit and it worked... I tried letting the PC run for a bit, and after a while, the GPU got a little warm... so I guess it's probably not a PCI-E slot issue... plus, I already tried a different card and it was fine (like I said) I could use some quick help here🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Thanks in advance..
EDIT: Did a little digging online, and people say these things run on as little as 20W... So, I guess the PSU might not be the issue then
EDIT 2: When I pull the card out and go back to the integrated graphics, everything works normally.
William Richardson12 said:So, it’s probably just some component failing or maybe there's a short circuit somewhere. A technician should be able to track it down.
I swapped out the hard drive and did a fresh install of macOS and everything seems fine—it isn't resetting anymore. I'm actually typing this on it right now... But if I completely cut the power at the wall or flip the PSU switch, the CMOS resets. It's fine though, since I don't usually kill the power entirely, so it works okay for me... thanks
William Richardson12 said:Maybe there was some kind of short circuit or something. I don't know. 🤷 I guess you just have to see it for yourself to really get what's going on.
Ugh, looks like my CMOS just reset on me. Again.🙂 🙂
So, I think I finally figured out how to get my keyboard working again. Turns out, I just have to reset the CMOS. Guess that was it. I guess I’ll just flip the breaker on and off really fast, then bridge the ground and power with a screwdriver. Maybe that'll work. don't even have a case
William Richardson12 said:Pull the CMOS battery—with the power disconnected, obviously—then hold down the power button for about 30 seconds. Pop the battery back in, jump into the BIOS, restore the defaults, fix your boot order, and install Windows on a formatted drive. That should fix it. Though, I guess the real question is what’s actually causing the issue. If the CMOS is failing, it could be the motherboard or maybe even the power supply.
I'm not really sure what the actual glitch was. I tried everything mentioned above, but nothing worked. Somehow, I managed to get it running once I plugged in this DVD/CD drive. Since then, thank God, the CMOS hasn't been acting up. I tried unplugging it from the power supply, plugging it back in, and then rebooting... and it stayed stable. Right now, I'm just installing Windows 7.
William Richardson12 said:Maybe you should just wipe that drive and load some newer Windows on there?
So, I finally swapped in a new optical drive and now the keyboard actually works, so I managed to get into the BIOS. I fixed the date and enabled USB legacy support, so I guess I'll try installing Windows 7 64-bit now and see what happens. I'll let you guys know...
William Richardson12 said:Maybe just format the drive and install some newer Windows versions on it?
I can't even format it... nothing. My DVD drive isn't being recognized at all. I tried two different ones already, but I've got a few more lying around, so I guess I'll try those now.
Also, I forgot to mention that my CMOS time keeps resetting itself. I actually swapped out the battery yesterday because it was doing the exact same thing then, too.
morning, so I just finished putting together a new PC, and I tossed in an old hard drive I had lying around that still had Windows XP on it but here's the thing: when I try to get into the BIOS, neither my mouse nor my keyboard works. They only kick in once Windows actually boots up because, I guess, it needs to load the drivers.. except it seems to be reinstalling those drivers every single time I turn it on.. then I realized something else I’d actually uninstalled Avira and put Avast on there instead I also installed Opera, CPU Temp, and a few other programs, and everything seemed fine at first but then I shut the computer down, rebooted, and suddenly the keyboard drivers were being reinstalled again plus Avast was gone, CPU Temp was gone, Opera was gone and Avira was back like nothing happened 0_0 Does anyone have a clue what's going on? Btw, before I added this hard drive and booted from it, everything was working perfectly but ever since I plugged this specific drive in, things have been weird... Maybe I should try a different hard drive, since I have two others that work fine One has Windows on it and the other is blank?
Henry Morales32 said:I mean, I'm not sure what you found, but that should be safe enough. That's how I used to do it when I was setting up the opC. There's a connector on the motherboard where most of the front panel stuff plugs in. You really need to have the MB schematic. Somewhere in there, you'll find a couple of Power ON/GND pins. Just bridge them (usually with a screwdriver) for a few seconds and then let go. That basically simulates hitting the actual Power ON button.
Anyway, thanks for the help. It powered up and it's working... thanks 😁DDD
Henry Morales32 said:I mean, I'm not sure what you're looking at, but that should be safe enough. That’s how I used to do it when I was setting up my PC. There's a connector on the motherboard where most of the front panel stuff plugs in. You really need to have the motherboard diagram handy. Somewhere in there, you'll find a couple of Power ON/GND pins. Just bridge them—usually with a screwdriver—for a second or two and then let go. That basically simulates hitting the actual Power ON button.
Alright, I'll give it a shot and let you know how it goes.
Hey there, so I just finished putting together this PC build—no case yet, obviously—and now I’m stuck wondering how to actually turn the thing on without a power button. Is there some kind of workaround? I've heard you can just bridge the power and ground pins with a screwdriver or something, but I have no clue which ones they are... The motherboard is an ASRock KBNF4G-SATA2.