These aren't professionals; they're more like amateurs who don't understand electronics or basic circuitry. Of course there's more than just two circuit boards involved, even if you can't see them right away. Why would anyone bother replacing fifteen capacitors if that's how many are actually in there? Usually, you can tell when one fails—either it's bulged or there's discoloration on the board—but it isn't always that obvious. It could also be a faulty potentiometer if the unit has one... Have you tried resetting the monitor or running an auto-adjust?
If you were actually an electronics technician, you wouldn't be asking this here. You can't fix this alone, and nobody can tell you if it's worth the cost until the exact fault is identified. Give it to an experienced technician. They'll likely solve 99% of these issues; my guess is the power supply is faulty, perhaps the 5V rail isn't delivering a steady 5V. Then again, it could be anything. Modern Dell units have far more complex circuitry than a standard Roku, and most of the components are hidden directly behind the panel. Stop tinkering with it yourself. You could be killed; there is high voltage present here exceeding 110V. Agree on a flat rate upfront—for instance, $67—and stipulate that if they can't fix it, you pay nothing.
First, check your graphics card settings in Microsoft Windows. Ensure the refresh rate is set to 60Hz rather than 100Hz or something else. If the hardware isn't dead, it should work perfectly at 60Hz.
First off, your CPU is overheating. You need to clean out the dust or upgrade to a better cooler. Second, your power supply might be failing or was simply underpowered from the start. The voltage readings will tell you everything you need to know. Buy a higher-wattage PSU. If you're planning on an upgraded graphics card down the road, you'll definitely need a much beefier unit.
Unfortunately, they aren't compatible. You can't see the voltages here.. You have two options: either enter the BIOS and hunt for a setting that displays voltage levels... ..I assume the BIOS has this, though I'm not certain. Check it and maybe take a photo. Alternatively, measure it manually on the cable inside the PC—the yellow wire toward the case or the black one. It needs to be 12 Volts. Specifically at the graphics card. If you don't understand electrical currents, then don't touch anything. And I'm curious about the clock speed on that HD 4850. Does it really drop all the way down to 160MHz on its own? I had an HD 4870 once, and when I dropped below 200MHz, the whole system froze. Do you need any software other than the driver and Radeon Software for the GPU? Also, bump up the Intel voltage slightly, just a tiny bit, like +0.05V.
I have nothing to say about those voltage readings in the image. Are you joking? Either Core Temp isn't compatible with that motherboard/chipset or this computer shouldn't even be running with those numbers. Try using "Open Hardware Monitor"; perhaps it will read the voltages correctly. You could also try swapping the power cable connections for the GPU or CPU. If you are using that EVGA 600, you have two 12V rails at 18/20 amps each. It won't work if one wire goes to the CPU and that same line feeds the GPU. The graphics card will drain that single line instantly.
I honestly haven't found a definitive cause yet. Changing the BIOS Command Rate from 1 to 2 might help. Have you tried bumping up the CPU Voltage just a tiny bit? Did you enable an Overclock or something similar in the BIOS? Is there a CPU power limit set in your BIOS? Not every board has that option, but yours might. Could there be a virus or Trojan constantly trying to access the internet and freezing everything? Or perhaps some software that's perpetually trying to connect to the web without stopping—unfortunately, that kind of junk exists. Is it possible you have electrical interference (120V) bypassing the PSU filter and messing with the motherboard or chips? Are you in a city or a rural area? Is there a heavy appliance nearby drawing massive amounts of power? Do you have three or more refrigerators or freezers on the same circuit as your PC? Those compressors can produce hellish interference whenever they kick on.
If you want to monitor temperatures, there's OpenHardwareMonitor and several other software options available. You can actually configure them to display the temperature right on your Taskbar.
Tell me, are you running 3DMark or any actual games?
No, I have my desktop and a laptop. This laptop is almost exactly five years old, and I can tell you, it runs just as well as the day I bought it. On average, I run this laptop for 12 hours every single day without any issues. However, I clean out the heatsink every three months, or at the absolute latest, every six months.
In short, what dishonest people won't tell you is this: never buy an older laptop under any circumstances. And stay away from graphics cards; they run incredibly hot, and that heat alone makes them extremely fragile. There are very few honest people who actually know how to maintain their hardware, but how are you supposed to know which ones they are? It is better not to buy anything that has been in use for a long time. If something has been used for more than, say, nine months, it likely isn't worth your money and could die tomorrow. Give or take a few months.
3DMark stresses a graphics card more than any actual game; there is no need to keep running it. Based on the temperatures, you can see them spike, drop, then slowly climb again—it’s overheating. I doubt this will happen during actual gameplay, though. It is possible your case isn't getting enough airflow, or perhaps the graphics card cooler is too weak or just clogged with dust. I didn't watch the entire video, but I know when AMD cards overheat, they throttle the GPU and memory frequencies by about 200MHz. You notice the performance drop immediately. I am not sure how Nvidia handles it. Perhaps they also lower clock speeds while they struggle. If you continue to run the graphics card at these high temperatures, it will likely fail within two to four years of purchase.
Pull the fan. There's a sticker or similar marking on the center of the motor; peel it off. Apply one or two drops of motor oil—you can even go up to the top. It doesn't matter if it’s old or new, just grab some Valvoline or something. Then, reseal the hole with a new sticker or a piece of high-quality tape, like Scotch tape, ensuring the area around the hole is clean. It will last 100 years. You won't find better lubricant than motor oil. In 34 years, I have never once needed to buy a new fan, unless I required a larger model.
Have you performed a CMOS Reset? That can resolve RAM issues. If one stick works, pull it out and swap it into the other slot. If it still functions, both sticks are fine. Whenever you change the Position or configuration of the RAM, it is safer to always perform a CMOS Reset.
If you use the Wi-Fi on/off switch, it will function. It's located under the mousepad, slightly left of center. And I am not referring to the "Fn+F2 WLAN switch."
If you don't need Bluetooth right now, just press Fn+F2 three times in a row to turn on the Wi-Fi and kill the Bluetooth.
If macOS is running and can read that John Doe, you can bypass the OS and run Disk Utility on that drive or partition instead. It will find all bad sectors and mark them properly. Unless there are too many, in which case nothing can fix it. It’s much faster than using Unix or anything similar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EwjhnfWPOzs
Large drives should be split into smaller partitions, like E: 300GB, F: 300GB, etc. That way, if one partition fails, you only deal with that one without wasting time on the rest. You can find CHKDSK for free if you look, but I wouldn't bother. macOS does the same thing, just significantly faster—if you know how to use it.
Most times, a John Doe fails at the beginning. If you isolate that section, the remaining 90% might still work fine for years. If the John Doe actually crashes, throw it in the trash. Those platters are beyond repair.
They’d be too small for me. You can't get decent sound out of something that tiny. Think about any musical instrument—even a violin is larger than that. Size isn't everything, but it's fair to say bigger speakers and cabinets generally perform better. Sure, you can have small speakers, but if you want actual bass, you need more volume. That's how you actually hear the music.
Can you install something like a reflector near the TP-Link antenna, and maybe even an additional one by the router itself? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8E8FODFVpQc