Posts by Sandra Cook60

How would you know?
Did you take the motherboard to an electronics technician to see if it can be fixed for $17? It would be better to just bring the whole computer and ask. Tell them everything you know.
Maybe one capacitor is blown and it’ll work again. It isn't trash unless the damage goes deeper than a single component. If you aren't a technician, you don't know.
Even with a photo of yours, nobody on this forum can identify your exact motherboard.
You haven't even measured the voltages like I told you. What do you expect? For us all to stare into a crystal ball? You won't follow instructions, and you don't have the tools. You don't understand electricity. Otherwise, we wouldn't have to play fortune teller to find the problem.

Errors can be found, but not every error, and certainly not this way.
I wouldn't hand you a new motherboard for even a second; you'd probably just end up breaking it.

Best,

urbanranger26 said:I just put it in the oven and that was that.

Me from my iPad using Reddit

There is no helping you...

I don't get this world. Everyone rushes to the Mechanic soon,
even if nothing is actually broken and it’s just an inspection,
yet when it comes to computers—which are incredibly complex—people just fiddle with them until they break even more, frying motherboards, power supplies... everything, just because they won't go to a specialist.

That’s strange. Maybe it needs a replacement and a rebuild.

@Alexander Moore67/">@@Alexander Moore67
Regarding static electricity,
it depends on what you're wearing, your footwear, and how you move.
A single minor movement can put thousands of volts on you.
(Safest bet is to go naked.) 😁

Where has it been sitting all year? Out in the cold, damp, and humid air? If so, it’s trash.
Did you handle it carefully? Did you make sure not to touch it until it had properly grounded itself?
A single touch can fry all the electronics.

Can't you just borrow a different GPU from somewhere?
Watch out—the connectors, slots, and cables for the graphics card need perfect contact. Every single millimeter must seat correctly, otherwise, you won't get a picture. I'm telling you this for future reference.
If everything is functioning properly, even without a monitor attached, the BIOS shouldn't be throwing error codes.
Essentially, the failure could stem from three different sources.
It sounds like a faulty GPU, but it’s entirely possible the power supply is too weak or the motherboard is failing. You can't rely solely on those beep codes; the BIOS doesn't always pinpoint the exact issue. For instance, if it reports a memory error on the video card,
it might actually be because the 12V rail is only delivering 10V. In that case, the GPU fails to perform, and the BIOS incorrectly blames the card itself. It could also be the PCIe slot or a circuit on the motherboard. No one can tell you for certain over the internet.
That is why you need spare parts or a Multimeter. You can use a Multimeter to test the power supply,
but you can't test the motherboard or the GPU with it.
Testing hardware during startup requires zero drivers or software. Just pure hardware.
If you don't have the tools, you don't have a chance. Your only option if you're stuck is to take your card and try it in someone else's PC... assuming they are willing to lend you their card to test yours.
To be honest, I wouldn't even lend my own GPU to anyone except my brother. I taught him how to handle this stuff, so I know he'll treat it like his own.
Besides, I shouldn't need to. I always keep older components around for testing.
I recommend this to everyone: don't just toss everything or sell it all immediately. Otherwise, you end up sitting on old AGP junk that you'll never need again.

Plug the graphics card into the PCI-Express slot.

I would pull the battery; it needs at least 3.20 volts.
If it’s dead and you don’t have a spare, leave it out.
Reset BIOS.

Power it on and check for 12 volts on one of the yellow wires from the power supply against black or the case.
It should be at least 11.40 volts.

If everything is correct, the BIOS should trigger.

If it won't start despite everything being fine, I'd say the motherboard is shot. Check the capacitors around the CPU.
That's what happens when you buy motherboards for $27 cheap...
You miss out on quality capacitors that actually last 10 years instead of just two or three.
And it isn't just about capacitors; there are differences in chip quality and other components too.

Furthermore, I won't even bother with products starting with "A," even if I'm short on cash right now. My sanity is worth more than that.

Incredible card. It’s easily 2.5 times more powerful than my old reliable one.

One question: are there actually games out there now that require DX11 just to run?

Alexander Anderson21 said:I don't believe it. I've spent ten days scouring American forums and searching Google. You're the first person to suggest this reset method, and it actually worked. Impressive.

Glad to hear it. 🙂

You should have checked the manual immediately (don't toss anything; put everything in one drawer). It really ought to be clearly stated.

Best,

Alexander Anderson21 said:I don't own a microwave. Does anyone actually believe they change the chemical properties of food? 🙂

👍 🙂

Alexander Anderson21 said:Tried resetting the router to no avail. How do I reset the gamepad? Should I try an uninstall and reinstall?

Shouldn't there be a small reset hole on the controller? Can't you just use a needle or something to reset it?
Are there no more instructions?

Here are my thoughts: 🙂

- Have you tried resetting the controller?

- Is there a router nearby? It might be interfering; try turning it off for a bit.

- Bluetooth interference is possible. Disable it on both your phone and PC to test.

- Don't run your microwave 😁 while playing. It's bad for you; just toss it. 😁

...

I'm reading now that this controller uses a Lithium-ion battery,
so what is the USB cable even for? To charge it?

Forgive my questioning, but I've never owned a controller and don't plan to.
I tried one once and simply couldn't play. Nothing at all.

Beyond that, I'm not sure. Try it on another computer. If it fails there too, it's dead. If it works, is the issue your PC, Windows, or the USB?

Could the battery be dead?

@neondrifter26/">@@neondrifter26, you’re acting just like Olivia Doyle here.
Should I write out a lesson to open your eyes, or will you figure it out yourselves?
A new battery starts at 100% capacity.
Naturally, it loses strength during charge cycles; we all age, don't we?
Every single time it drains and recharges, it loses about 0.05% of its total capacity.
Have none of you noticed that once a battery gets old, it simply doesn't hold a charge like it used to?

When voltage drops because the battery is being drained, the voltage falls. When the battery is fresh, it hits the alarm threshold predictably.
But as it ages, that voltage drops much faster! Even if there is technically some juice left when it’s empty, it can't output enough current to power the computer or whatever device is running, causing an immediate shutdown before the system even triggers an alarm. Furthermore, an old battery can't deliver the high current loads that modern computers demand.

Are you seriously going to tell me you haven't noticed older batteries drain faster?
If you have noticed this, then I don't understand the questions.

That specific voltage alarm usually sits around 5% or 10%. If you want to keep using a dying battery, set the alarm to 15% or 20%; that way, Windows actually has time to trigger the alert before everything goes dark.
Was that too complicated? If you were seven years old, I wouldn't trust you with a computer.
This isn't child's play; it's one of the most complex machines humans have ever built.

Who cares? They just want more. As long as they keep swallowing everything we feed them...

Paul Doyle7 said:Hello,

Any upgrade recommendations? What would you change?
>

Everything is fine except the GPU; it's underpowered for modern gaming. If you aren't playing games, leave it alone.
People overestimate how much faster newer CPUs actually are.
I would swap the graphics card for an AMD Radeon R9 270. It is very fast and the price-to-performance ratio is excellent.
Check this list:
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html

Also, if you are still using an HDD for your Windows boot drive, grab a 64GB SSD. They aren't expensive, and the speed boost will be massive.

LP

And what's your take? What could be the cause?

Anything new?

Perhaps that Windows version isn't a complete build, but more like an update package that checks for an existing installation on the Hard drive first.
If there is not having Windows, the process stops right there. I have never used an installation CD like that, so I doubt that is how it works.

It is also possible the CD/DVD is damaged. It worked yesterday and failed today. A single minor scratch can render it useless.

Undervolt i3 Haswell. I read multiple threads claiming this actually lowers temperatures.
Exactly how and where in the BIOS? One needs to be careful. I don't even own an i3, let alone anything modern; I'm still running an older dual-core.
I generally undervolt my GPUs. It helps significantly with heat and noise. In fact, I set my current card to its absolute minimum voltage right at startup. It isn't possible for every card. Manufacturers always set voltages to the maximum so that every GPU passes testing easily. They just end up generating unnecessary heat.
As for the CPU, I only slightly overvolt when overclocking. If the CPU requires too much voltage to remain stable, I stop the overclock and revert to a stable setting with just a minor overvolt. In practice, my CPU needs 1.17V; I give it a maximum of 1.20V.
My overclock sits between 21% and 28% because my RAM overclocks quite well.

The Wi-Fi switch is toggled here...
It's usually located just under the touchpad on the left side...

There are three ways to toggle the Wi-Fi.
You have the physical switch, the keyboard FN-F8 shortcut, or various software options...
Is it irrelevant? If you understand basic security, shouldn't you have the ability to kill your Wi-Fi whenever necessary?

Best regards,