Posts by ruggedcyclist7

Around here in the States, that usually happens if you miss a few utility bills

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy A50 using Reddit

It’s possible the antenna cable just popped loose.
The easiest fix would be grabbing a small USB Wi-Fi adapter and connecting through that...

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy using Reddit

Looks like it was just a YouTube thing. Everything seems to be working fine today regardless of whether you're logged in...
LP

Nothing seems to work except logging out of YouTube entirely before the video will actually play. I'm honestly at a loss here...

Editor:
So, it works fine now if I'm just logged into my Gmail account, but as soon as I switch over to the specific channel linked to that address, everything breaks again.

When I'm signed into my YouTube channel, some videos load perfectly while others just refuse to play.

I'm working on a fix right now, but I'm honestly stuck... some videos play just fine while others won't budge at all.
It's happening with Mozilla Firefox 45.0.1 and YouTube, though everything runs perfectly in Chrome.
I've already tried reinstalling Mozilla and the Adobe Flash Player (even though it works via HTML5), but I'm out of ideas...

For example, this one isn't working

I usually just use MakeMKV for this. It takes the whole DVD folder—the entire VIDEO_TS directory and everything inside—and wraps it into a single .mkv file without any re-encoding. It basically just repacks it in a matter of seconds...

Give it a shot.

Same question again, though... which OS are we talking about?

Look, focusing on just the first and last lines is usually easiest, though it doesn't always work quite like Henry Morales32 suggests.
So, you basically strip out those extra lines from the translation—like that first one shown in the image

plus the final two... the ones saying "..translation" and "sourced from..."


Then, just fire up the movie in any player and wait for the timestamp of the very first spoken line. Note that down, then skip to the end of the film
(this is the part I struggle with most) and wait for the timestamp of the last spoken line (check the translation so you know roughly what
to look for), then write that time down.

In the Subtitle Workshop, follow the steps in the picture, enter those two timestamps, and save your finished translation (maybe as a SubRip .srt file)

Even with a fresh Windows install, you might still be dealing with leftover driver conflicts or underlying hardware issues. I'd suggest testing your RAM and checking the health of your hard drive,

Check if a specific process is hogging your CPU or memory using Task Manager or Process Explorer... also, try cleaning up your startup list.

Nicholas Moore6 said:Hey there! 🙂 It isn't exactly municipal, but it's close enough... we have access through a MAC address, so I am hoping that won't stand in the way of what I'm trying to do, haha.
The issue is that I've already managed to get myself completely lost in all these technical terms... I honestly couldn't tell if I needed a Wi-Fi router or a repeater. 😁
That USB Wi-Fi adapter option sounds more appealing to me—I've heard of it before—but I can't seem to find any actual instructions on how to set it up. Does it involve syncing settings between the card and the USB port? I know I have to enable sharing on the card, but what about the USB side? Should I disable everything except IPv4? Once you have a moment, could you please walk me through this? 🙂
And if I do decide to go with a repeater, do you have a specific one you'd recommend? Feel free to toss out a couple of examples.
Thanks in advance! 🙂

If you can just ask them to add the new Mac to the authorized device list... then we should be all set...
Assigning an existing MAC address to a repeater... I'm just not sure. It really ought to be possible, but... well, I don't know. If anyone out there has figured this out, please let me know...

Kod:

It’s such a minor thing, especially back in the Windows 7 days. You just end up with two separate networks... A network bridge... connecting different segments together seamlessly... quite an essential tool for keeping everything in sync.You can just set that USB up as an ad hoc connection in the settings... Just Google it, or even better, try this... Just caught that video... really eye-opening stuff...

Kod:

Pretty much anything works... I just picked one up for my girlfriend. Just getting started... It’s fine for what it is... just enough to grab some Wi-Fi from my uncle's place in the same house.

I just checked on Amazon... looks like they already have some available... $57But... Wait... just a second... $200 seems pretty reasonable to me... looks okay...

There might be several ways to handle this... if they could just let us know what their end goal is, we can figure out the best way to get it done.

EDIT:
Ah, so it’s hooked up to an external antenna via Wi-Fi (like a municipal network or something)

In that case, grabbing a wireless repeater would probably be your best bet.

It picks up the signal and rebroadcasts it... maybe 200-$83, plus the computer doesn't even need to stay powered on.

A cheaper route would be picking up a USB Wi-Fi adapter and just sharing the connection from the first device.

Nicholas Moore6 said:If there’s already a thread covering this, please bear with me...

So, here’s my situation: I have a PC setup where the wireless card is connected via a cable to an external antenna.
I’m trying to figure out the best ways to extend that kind of Wi-Fi signal to cover my entire house. I’d love to find the most straightforward solution—though I’m definitely open to any other suggestions you all might have.

Thanks in advance! 🙂

The question is still a bit fuzzy... do you actually have a wireless router at home that you're trying to connect to?

And what's the end goal here? What exactly are you trying to achieve with the signal extension...

Peter Morgan3 said:Just a heads up, watch those checkboxes during the install process... otherwise you'll end up with one of those annoying toolbars. 🙂

We really need to make this a sticky thread, but let's do it for all free software.

When a friend (specifically a cute girl) tells me their PC is acting slow, but then I see

I’d highly recommend converting everything to PDF. My professors back at college used to send my papers right back to me because the formatting would just fall apart on their end—tables would shift, diagrams would go haywire, and formulas became unreadable... sometimes they couldn't even open the file at all.
My instructors are still using software from like, 1999, while I’ve moved up to AutoCAD 2014 😉

PS: Just in case some federal agency is tracking my every move for doing something shady, I’m definitely just using free student versions! 😉

jadelynx60 said:...
Solve this system of linear equations using matrix algebra:

x+2*v-z=3-y-u
y+x=1+u
2*x+2*u=1-v
x+y+u+z+1=0
u=2*v+2+z

First, group all the equations by their variables (like x, y, z, u, v) to pull out the coefficients for your matrix:
The first one would look like this:
x+y-z+u+2v=3

So, your first matrix row is
1 1 -1 1 2 | 3
and so on...
In Excel, you'll want to use the inverse function (MINVERSE) and then multiply them (MMULT)

Just a quick heads-up—you need to wrap those two commands with Ctrl+Shift+Enter to make them work properly.

cosmicdrifter39 said:... all I get is a bunch of ########## instead. Any idea how to fix the calculation? ...

I thought it was just because the result wouldn't fit in the cell, but here is what Google says
Code:

Grace Thomas said:So, just to clarify, I'm looking for a simple line graph for some data points. I used to do this in Microsoft Word by going to Insert > Charts and picking the X Y Scatter option, then plugging in my values. For example, x: 2, 4, 6, 8 and y: 4, 6, 10, 13. That gives me a curve. The thing is, I really want the line to start from zero—from the origin point on the chart. Anyone know how?

The graph won't start at zero unless you actually give it a zero value. In your case, you'd need to start the x-axis at 0 (0, 2, 4, 6, 8)...

And if you want it to hit the origin perfectly, that first y-value also needs to be 0 (0, 4, 6, 10, 13)

No formatting here, just the formula =ROUND(number,num_digits), where num_digits is basically how many decimal places you want to round to (like 2 in your case)

Will

well, you don't really need a specific addition or subtraction function since you've already got (+) and (-)..