Posts by Kimberly Gomez34

If that Asus still carries a 4-5 year warranty, I’d definitely go with that one over this Samsung instead.

Go with 8GB for sure (meaning you should top it up with an extra 4GB), especially since RAM is pretty cheap these days
Capacity-wise, those 240/250 GB drives offer much better bang for your buck, and the prices on them tend to drop quite rapidly. As for longevity, don't sweat it—these drives are built to last way longer than you'd think

You’re going to have to upgrade; I can't find any 17" model with a decent factory SSD for under $5,000.

What kind of capacity are we talking about? You can grab a 120GB Patriot Burst for about $117, or maybe a 240GB one for around $600. With 240GB paired with 4GB of RAM, you'll get something like this, whereas sticking with 120GB and 4GB might leave you with this kind of performance.

EDIT

Or you could just spec out this one (it's got the top-tier GPU)

As far as I can tell, there shouldn't even be a Crossfire option available in the drivers in the first place.
You can't just swap out that graphics card.

Christian Reed3 said:Would I actually see better performance if I prioritized a superior processor while sticking to just 4GB of RAM for my first build? I’m definitely planning on upgrading either the CPU or the power supply, given that I have about $180 left in the budget...

If we're looking at the $230 range, I’d probably opt for a smaller drive—maybe a 120 GB SSD—just to ensure everything fits comfortably within that price point...

Regarding the build sitting around the $320 mark... It absolutely needs two PS/2 ports. I’m currently using a keyboard and mouse that are positioned quite far apart, and they’re already running through PS/2 cables. In my experience, those cheap PS/2 to USB adapters are notoriously unreliable. Since this machine isn't intended for gaming, I’d much rather invest in a stronger processor; the graphics card isn't really a priority for me. Perhaps a budget-friendly GPU if it makes sense, but the CPU is the main focus... Especially since, from what I can gather in the photo, this one doesn't even feature VGA or DVI outputs...

No. That would mean opting for a Pentium. It's roughly 80% more expensive than a Celeron, yet it's only maybe 15% faster in CPU-bound scenarios—which isn't what you're doing with web browsing or Microsoft Office. You're much better off putting that extra cash toward a high-quality power supply or a SanDisk Ultra ii 240 SSD.

You're missing the point; the NVIDIA GeForce series is a broader category than just the specific Radeon HD 7650 m model. One doesn't exclude the other—it’s simply that the software identifies exactly which GPU you have within that specific series.

Since you have an AMD Apa, the integrated graphics on your processor and the dedicated card can technically work together during gaming to boost performance—though, in practice, it doesn't always work perfectly. For certain titles, it might actually be better to keep SLI Disabled, but generally speaking here, you'll find that newer AMD drivers feature a different interface. You'll usually need to dig through the driver settings to look for terms like dual GPU or crossfire.

Capacity isn't the only thing driving the price of a Western Digital drive; a significant chunk of what you're paying actually goes toward the internal mechanics (around $50 for a $107, or roughly $70 for a $133). If you're looking for the absolute best value based on the price-per-gigabyte ratio, the 3TB models are the sweet spot (usually running north of $100)

With those 3.5K specs, you might manage 60+ fps in some lighter titles—provided you don't go overboard with settings like AA or high textures. As for the heavy hitters? Forget about it; the system will be struggling to stay even near 60fps.

Bryan Jackson12 - Your Memory is actually running at ~ 1333MHz; CPU-Z just shows half because of how it calculates the double data rate.

On another note, the power supply isn't an issue with MS (since they don't even make PSUs), but rather those specific units that are junk 99% of the time, while the 1% (like FSP) are actually solid enough to trust.

It’s almost certainly a power supply issue. That chirping or buzzing sound is a pretty common headache with those Seasonic-based platforms, much like what you might see with a Corsair VX series unit.

To be perfectly honest, you don't need a laptop in the $5,500–$6,000 range for what you're trying to do.

There are plenty of machines out there that hit almost all of your requirements: some might lack an SSD, others might only have 4GB or 6GB of RAM (both of which are easy upgrades), or they might meet your specs but come with an SSHD instead. Some might miss your specific clock speed target or arrive without an OS pre-installed—or a combination of those factors. All of these options would come in significantly under your current budget...

If you absolutely require everything to be ready right out of the box—keeping in mind that 1080p is really more of a luxury than a necessity—the only thing I managed to dig up within that price bracket is this. However, their online product descriptions can be notoriously unreliable, so I wouldn't bet the farm on it. Make sure you verify every single spec directly with them before pulling the trigger.

Jack for that kind of money this, I actually checked out the review and they gave it some pretty glowing praise. It’s easily one of the top picks from what Uzishop has in stock. Then again, you probably don't even need something that powerful

Are you also running an MC60? 😬

They’re actually even cheaper now; you can grab a 240GB drive for under $200
.
http://www.nabava.net/search.php?tp=...last+240gb+ssd

To put it in perspective, a 120GB version goes for about $117
.
Regarding hard drives, I agree with what my colleague mentioned: if you're looking at a laptop, stick to the 2.5" form factor. If 120 or 240GB isn't enough storage for you, prioritize an HDD with 7200 RPM speeds—most laptops default to 5400 RPM, which is noticeably slower. Alternatively, look into an SSHD (a hybrid SSD/HDD combo), such as this one from
:

Or for an SSHD option:

At any rate, we’ll have to wait until there's a more substantial body of feedback to look at. It’s too early to label this shop a "must-avoid" since nobody has filed a formal complaint yet, but personally, I think it's just as premature to start singing their praises. After all, ED seemed like the gold standard when they first arrived, too.

Furthermore, why are we equating the scale of a company with its quality? We saw this exact same logic play out with ED. They were this massive, successful international powerhouse with branches spanning across Europe, acting as these heavyweights compared to our local single-location shops. In the end, the price gap practically vanished, the service was an absolute disaster—likely due to a single outlet having overwhelmingly negative reviews even in terms of volume over just a few years—and then they slinked away from the market like cowards.

Based on that review roundup link I shared, they’re noticeably quieter than the XFX one.

Warranty 🤣

It’s way too close, even with an R9 270. If I remember correctly, that card could actually sit right alongside a GTX 950 once you get the newer drivers installed; according to TechSpot, a few updates back, the R7 370 was within 5% of the GTX 950's performance.

If you're looking to upgrade from a 750Ti 2GB, based on what's available right now, I'd suggest this one. As for moving up from an R9 270, check out this option.

Just remember, if they're asking a premium price, it’s usually just a sign they're padding their margins. 😬

I’m assuming you’re looking at an i5 760—you haven't been able to find new 1156 motherboards in stores for quite some time now. Your best bet is to snag one from a friend or a local shop, otherwise, you'll be hunting through used marketplaces (which can be hit or miss). You'll obviously need DDR3 RAM too, but that should be easy enough to find, whether you want it new or used.

That said, that processor is still plenty capable for most games. If you go that route, I’d definitely recommend stepping up to a more powerful graphics card than just an R7 250 or 250x. Ideally, you should aim for something like an R7 360, a 260X, or a 750Ti, reaching up to an R9 270 or a GTX 950 at the absolute maximum. Throwing in some overclocking would also help, provided your motherboard and cooler can handle it.