electricharbor30 said:All you really need to do is download gpu-z, fire it up, and hit that icon in the top right corner. It’ll automatically grab a screenshot and upload it, then just give you the Links I find this pretty handy because it shows the pixel fillrate, which I guess is a direct indicator of how much "muscle" a GPU actually has... I’m especially curious to see a screenshot of that AMD A8 7600 processor everyone keeps raving about. I want to see if it really hits 5.8 gp/s or whatever it is. If anyone has one handy, please post it—should only take two minutes...
It isn't really a direct indicator, more of a rough estimate, and honestly, it can be pretty inaccurate, which we've probably mentioned a hundred times in other threads.
If you're going to obsess over theoretical numbers, you should probably look at: - T_Rate, then P_Rate and MemBandwidth, since those are more tied to resolution. - Stream Processors/Cores, TMUs, and ROPs for the same manufacturer and generation.
The integrated R7 inside an A8 7600 is basically comparable to an R7 250 DDR3, though that 64-bit bus kind of holds it back compared to a standalone R7 250 DDR3.
The strongest integrated option is roughly equal to a slightly overclocked HD 7750 DDR3, but again, that 64-bit bus is a bit of a bottleneck.
Zachary Nguyen2 said:I'm wondering what the best GPU would be for $267. Right now I'm running a Radeon HD 6450, so it's definitely a struggle, and I only have 4GB of RAM. How much RAM would be enough for newer games like Fallout 4 or GTA 5?
6GB is recommended, but 8GB is more than enough.
What else are you running? CPU, motherboard, power supply...
If you're buying new, an R7 360 might be the best value for $300, but if your CPU can handle it, maybe something a bit stronger—though probably used.
1 x Asrock B85 ANNIVERSARY - Supports 4th Gen & 5th 1 x Intel Core i5-4460 (3.20GHz,1MB,6MB,84 W) Box
$703 AMD
Any GPU should work fine with this setup 😛
I guess I don't quite get why they went with the 860K—which probably only lasted less than a year with that old HD 6870—instead of just jumping straight to an i5? 😬
Regarding the RAM, maybe one of those 1GB modules is acting up. I guess you could try booting with different combinations of what you have on hand to see if that helps.
I guess that processor won't be able to fully utilize a stronger card. Maybe put the leftover budget toward a better cooler if they don't have one, or an SSD instead. What kind of power supply and motherboard are we looking at?
That seems a little high to me. I guess if you haven't cleaned out the cooler or swapped the thermal paste lately, then yeah, it makes sense that it’s running hotter.
Well, that power supply is really designed for builds without a dedicated graphics card. It puts out about 250W on the 12V rail for the CPU and GPU, so I guess it might technically hold up a GTX 750 Ti alongside an i5, but I wouldn't exactly go gaming on it. It’s probably safer to grab something more reliable. Maybe at least a Fortron Hexa + 400 W.
Power Supply AKYGA AK-P3-500 Pro 500 w, DC 3.3/5/±12V, 1x120, Retail Retail GIGABYTE Main board desktop AMD A68 AMD A8 x4 7600 Zalman T2 plus ZAL-ZM-T2 plus Kingston Non-ECC CL10 DIMM HyperX Fury red Series
Total: $1,757.69
Is that hard drive maybe SATA? I think modern motherboards don't really carry those old PATA/ATA connectors anymore.
Your whole setup is worth about $233, so maybe you could set your starting price a little higher than that.
Then again, that board supports AM3 processors if you do a BIOS update, so you might be able to grab a quad-core, but I’d probably look into getting a new power supply at the same time.
They probably shouldn't. I mean, nobody has a crystal ball 😛 ...but looking at how things have played out over the last few years, I'd say definitely not, at least not until the generational shift this summer.
Since you're tweaking the BCLK, the QPI just ends up hovering around the stock value anyway—it actually has its own multiplier, as shown in the video.
Maybe try aiming for ~3.6GHz at 1.27V. Have you run any stability tests with Prime95 yet? I’d suggest running the Small FFT test for at least an hour, and ideally, you wouldn't want those temps climbing past 80°C during stress testing.
As for heat and power draw, you could probably drop both if you disable Hyper-Threading (HT). That would leave you with 4 cores/4 threads, which should be plenty if you don't need all 8 threads—I doubt older games or WoT are using more than 2 cores anyway.
Ronald Myers81 said:I also have an XFX 550 w, but I'm honestly not sure if it's still pulling its weight. Does anyone know a good way to check if it's actually functioning correctly, or should I just go out and grab a dedicated power supply tester?
Ronald Myers81 said:I've got an Intel Core i5-750, but it just isn't cutting it for gaming anymore. I can't tell if the issue is with my motherboard or maybe the power supply, because the PC just kicks on for a second, shuts itself off, and then tries to reboot again in a constant loop...
It looks like they’re talking about the same power supply. 🤷
It sounds like it could be either the motherboard or the power supply... though I guess an Intel Pentium G4400 would likely struggle compared to an Intel Core i5-750 in any task requiring more than two cores.
Maybe it’d be worth testing that power supply in someone else's rig or just borrowing a different one to see if that fixes things.
Intel Core i5-6400 Asrock Z170 Pro4S LC-CC-95 2x4GB of the cheapest DDR4 memory available An EVGA Hyper 500W should be plenty A Cooler Master Deathclaw case Regarding SSDs... you could go with a SanDisk Ultra II, a Patriot Ignite/OCZ ARC 100, or maybe a Samsung 850 EVO
For the GPU: I guess it really just depends on how much cash you have left over😛