Jeffrey Chavez6 said:The Core i3 wins this one by a landslide. http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare...m33474vsm24957
Clock speed isn't everything, and honestly, who knows how long that 2.4GHz can even hold steady?
You didn't even mention the graphics card, which matters. But hey, if you aren't planning on gaming, then it doesn't really matter anyway.
Would this Intel Pentium N3700 be decent enough just for streaming movies or browsing with maybe ten tabs open? And would I actually feel a noticeable difference if I stepped up to the Core i3? Oh, and I might occasionally use Photoshop—does that mean I really need a dedicated graphics card?
That HP is way more powerful. Sure, its one-year warranty isn't perfect, but you can just pay extra for an extended plan or pick it up at Micro Center where you get it right away—even if you pay a bit more for the convenience.
This ASUS actually features dedicated graphics, unlike the HP... And honestly, I don't think there's much of a gap regarding the CPU either—maybe a tiny edge to the Core i3, but that's about it.🤔 With a little overclocking, that Intel Pentium N3700 can hit 2.4GHz.
Larry Ortiz5 said:The processor itself is solid, but let’s be real—without a dedicated GPU, you aren’t actually going to "game" on this machine. You’re going to need a separate graphics card, something along the lines of an rx 470/480 gtx 1060/1070, and then you could pretty much run whatever game your heart desires at 1080p resolution...
As for the motherboard, I'm completely in the dark here; I tried Googling it, but nothing came up. Just download Speccy so you can identify the manufacturer. Regarding the RAM, it's decent enough—8GB is still plenty for most gaming needs these days..
I was hoping you guys could give me a ballpark figure on what this used setup is worth—and more importantly, how it actually holds up for gaming these days? Most of it is still under warranty, too... Thanks
""It’s running an i5 4690k paired with integrated hd4600 graphics, 8GB of 2400MHz RAM, and a 1TB hard drive. It has a brand new 550W 80+ certified power supply and a black Zalman Z3+ case I picked up recently. There's a dual-layer DVD drive in there that looks like a Samsung unit... the motherboard should be a z87ah2, which I believe has built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, so you can connect your phone wirelessly since it's running macOS. It also comes with an original NOD32 antivirus license valid for another two years, if I recall correctly. Basically, everything is still covered by warranty just in case anything goes sideways.""
Hi there, I’m an independent contractor looking to bump up my contribution base... but I keep hitting an error message in the Joppd system. Is there actually a way to pay contributions based on a higher base than what’s officially prescribed? Thanks,
For the past two years, this seasonal business owner has been registering employees under fixed-term seasonal contracts.
I just stumbled upon some fine print in the law suggesting that this specific way of filing actually triggers an obligation to pay extended pension contributions for these workers during the off-season... The business owner didn't have the slightest clue about this requirement—everything was handled by the book based on what they thought was standard practice once the contracts expired.
So, what’s my move here? Should I just stick to the standard registration process moving forward and let these previous mistakes slide, or am I going to have to go back and fix everything? How does one even handle that? Thanks
I've got my personal car listed under my small business expenses. How does the depreciation math actually work here, and what’s the maximum percentage I can legally claim if I don't keep strict logs—like actual mileage or trip receipts? Right now, I'm just recording it as a 70/30 split between business and personal use... :S
Does a seasonal business owner actually have to register their cash register for fiscalization at the start of every season—and then de-register it once they wrap up? Last season, the IRS inspectors were handing out fines left and right for exactly that kind of thing...
I’ve been sitting here wondering about the whole concept of policy coverage—specifically, when you actually have protection written into your contract, what exactly does that cover? Does it actually hold water when things go south, or is the whole thing just some elaborate scam designed to separate us from our money?😁
ruggedmaker2 said:I don't get it. The IRS archives everything anyway. If you lose something or whatever happens, you can just hit them up for a printout, a transcript, or some kind of confirmation. It’s fine.
Why would you even need the IRS site for archiving forms? That completely defeats the whole purpose of having an online portal in the first place.
Anything you handle on your own computer related to work—you just archive it however you want. You could use a CD, a DVD, an external hard drive, a thumb drive... you've got plenty of options. Honestly, it really just comes down to how much you actually know about computers.
Big corporations have entire IT departments to deal with this stuff, while small businesses are basically on their own. If you aren't sure how to go about it, your best bet is to find an IT firm. Have them come out, look at your setup, see how your system is organized, and let them suggest a backup method that actually works for you.
So, I have this document sitting on my computer—for instance, if I’ve got a NASDAQ report saved after generating it through Synesis—I’m assuming the system spits it out as an .xml file.
And what about the confirmation receipts for sent items or the sales tax forms? I’m still stuck filling those out by hand. The IRS website only archives the previous year and the current one—so if you're looking for anything older than that, you're basically out of luck.
P.S. The IRS is insisting that everything has to be archived locally on your own computer in .xml format...
So, if I'm reading you correctly—and I think I am—you're essentially saying that trying to refill these cartridges with just any old ink is a fool's errand, and that for this specific printer, we should stick strictly to the original toner if we want to stay sane?
Is there actually any realistic way to cut costs here without completely sacrificing quality on this machine?
I really hope you're just pulling my leg here... 😁
On a side note, I actually got an XL black ink cartridge bundled with my printer—so, fingers crossed, I should be set for at least the next year...
Apparently, if you look on YouTube, there are plenty of tutorials showing how easy it is to refill these cartridges; it seems way less of a headache than messing with laser toners. 🤔
Do you have any recommendations for high-quality ink once I eventually get around to refilling these?