The gap between those processors isn't actually that massive. On the flip side, that 940 m is a way stronger graphics card than what you're getting in the Dell, and honestly, that’s going to do a lot more for your gaming experience than the CPU ever will.
I hate making sweeping generalizations about what’s "better," but let’s be real: for the same price, Intel usually packs more punch, especially when you're looking at laptops. Look, I'm not some Intel fanboy—I've always been one of those people who prefers the underdog brands—but the facts are the facts.
4GB is plenty for what you're describing. As for the brand, I don't like to paint everyone with the same brush, but honestly, I’d put HP at the bottom of my list for this price range, mostly because of that measly 1-year factory warranty. If I were picking based strictly on brand reputation, I’d go with Dell (even though I’ve been a Lenovo guy for years), simply because their budget models feel the least cheap and they offer the best factory warranty. Also, do you really need Full HD? If you aren't desperate for extra screen real estate, it’s not a must. In fact, it can actually be a downside since everything looks tiny in Windows. You can scale things up, sure, but it doesn't work perfectly in every single program.
Out of all these options, I’d grab the Dell with the 3-year warranty in a heartbeat. If you're absolutely dead set on having a 5-year warranty, then one of those two Acer laptops is your move. But I'll say this again: that extended coverage isn't a factory warranty. It looks great on paper, but who knows how much of a headache it'll actually be when you're stuck trying to file a claim.
Laptop screens aren't some exclusive, proprietary technology; they're pretty much universal. You don't need to hunt down a part specifically branded for your exact model.
All you really need is a 15.6" LED panel. The only thing that actually matters is making sure the connector is in the same spot as your old one—whether that's on the left or the right—which you'll figure out once you crack the casing open. You can probably snag a replacement on eBay for somewhere around 300-$167, depending on if you go with used or brand new.
If you can handle the Windows setup yourself, just buy the machine without it to save some cash. As for the whole AMD vs. Intel debate? I’m not saying Intel is strictly better across the board. Obviously, high-end AMD chips will crush the weakest Intel models out there. My issue is that AMD’s mid-range selection feels a bit thin, and you often don't get much value for your money compared to the competition, though there are exceptions.
Over at Best Buy, these look decent:
They actually have processors that are way more powerful than the one you mentioned.
Honestly, if I were you, I'd go with this Dell:
You get an Intel Core i3, a solid build quality, and a 3-year manufacturer's warranty.
Look, this laptop isn't exactly winning any prizes, and neither is AMD. Honestly, AMD has struggled big time lately, especially when it comes to laptops where they just can't seem to keep up with Intel. They're rarely the smart move unless you're looking at the Ryzen 5 series, which actually puts up a decent fight.
Best Buy isn't exactly known for being budget-friendly, and that warranty? It's not a manufacturer's warranty—it's their own through an insurance provider. On paper, the terms look great, but who knows how much of a headache it'll be in reality?
I don't want to waste anyone's time here, so let's get to it: does the laptop absolutely need Windows pre-installed, or is there another way around it? If you know someone who can handle the installation for you, you could save some cash and put that money toward better components instead.
So, you really need a $1,800 laptop for architecture school?
Come on, just admit you actually want to play games. I bet you could breeze through that entire degree with a $450 budget laptop, and honestly, you could probably handle all your coursework on a cheap machine. I even know people making a killing in this industry using budget laptops.
So, someone asks for a $600 laptop and you're out here recommending a machine with a GTX960M that costs nearly $1,000!?
Look, that laptop isn't exactly a gaming beast, but if they can stretch the budget for one with a 950M, they might be okay. http://www.amazon.com/search.php?tp=...-DM175D%2C
Now this would be the sweet spot. Great processor, decent graphics, and solid build quality. That 950M will handle the games they mentioned just fine.
It makes sense that it’s quieter when it’s cooler; the fan doesn't have to work nearly as hard.
A cooling pad isn't going to be a silver bullet here. If your laptop is choked with dust, you don't have any actual airflow to work with. Hot air can't escape through an exhaust vent that's completely blocked.
mellowotter4 said:Since both my laptop and my desktop have decided to call it quits on me at the exact same time, I’ve found myself in a bit of a tight spot where my budget is pretty tight, yet I need a new machine as soon as possible... Most of my time is spent streaming movies, browsing the web, or working in Microsoft Office, with maybe about 10% of the time dedicated to some light gaming—nothing heavy, just things like Madden or similar titles... Does anyone have any better suggestions than the ones I'm looking at here?
Also, which one do you think would be the smarter pick?
The first one is a terrible choice. Weak processor and integrated graphics. The second one is slightly better quality—it has a much stronger processor—but even then, the graphics won't handle any actual gaming.
HP has a slightly better processor, but only comes with a 1-year warranty, whereas Lenovo offers 2 years—plus, for $33 you get two extra years added on.
Honestly, I wouldn't even look at laptops without Windows. Since this is for an organization, we can't risk any legal headaches with unlicensed software.
Who knows? It probably doesn't even exist. We're just guessing at this point. They likely switched to a different supplier or something similar, which would explain why the price shifted.
According to the Corsair RAM advisor (which is about 99% reliable), you've got 4GB of DDR3L 1600MHz sitting in there. This laptop has two slots and can handle up to 16GB total if you go with two 8GB sticks. Just run HWMonitor or Speccy and you’ll know exactly what kind of memory you're working with for sure.
It doesn't matter if the new RAM isn't from the same manufacturer. In this day and age, incompatibility issues between different brands are pretty much unheard of. The only thing that actually matters is that you get DDR3L (1.35V), not the standard DDR3 (1.5V). http://www.amazon.com/s?k=ddr3l+so-dimm+8gb
Technically, an A10-4600M should be an option, but we’re talking a measly 15% boost at best. Plus, finding one would be a nightmare. They're sitting on eBay for about $117, which is just a total joke.