Quick question: why on earth am I hitting a wall at 20MB/s when transferring data over USB 3.0? I initially suspected the bottleneck might be the speed of the Hard Drive I'm pulling from, so I ran a test moving files from one 3.0 USB drive to another, but the results were just as dismal.
I noticed you can toggle the setting from “Quick removal” to Better performance, but honestly, that feels like a band-aid rather than a real fix. I’m more interested in understanding the underlying reason why the speeds are this abysmal in the first place.
Timothy Kim60 said:It feels a bit ungrateful to judge, but I honestly think that Sandy Bridge CPU is worth more—maybe at least two sockets' worth—simply because you're looking at those 40 PCI-E lanes.
I just set up my new account for $600 and have been around since $400.
Ryan Gonzalez4 said:I have a rough idea of what I want to ask for, but I could really use a little guidance on how to price things out—basically, how much can I reasonably expect to get back for each specific component?
I have a pretty good idea of what I’m looking to get for this setup, but I was hoping someone could lend me a hand with the specifics—essentially, how much should I realistically expect to squeeze out of each individual component?
Go ahead, tell me I can snag some massive discount at Best Buy. That’s the only reason I’m sticking with them exclusively. Look, I’m fully aware there are better deals and more enticing offers floating around elsewhere, but honestly, let's just call it what it is.
Basically, my main constraints are staying within budget and making sure everything can be picked up at Best Buy.
Here’s what I consider non-negotiable for this build: An LGA 1151 motherboard paired with an Intel Core i5-6600. (I’d honestly prefer the 6600K, but apparently Best Buy doesn't stock it right now, so I guess I'll settle). As far as the GPU goes, I was torn between an NVIDIA GTX 970 or an AMD Radeon R9 390, but beyond that, I'm pretty flexible. For the case, I just need something with front-facing USB 3.0 ports and enough internal clearance to make sure everything actually fits without a struggle. If I go with a decent power supply, one HDD, one SSD, and 16GB of RAM, do you think that'll hold up well over the next few years?
So, that's the roadmap—feel free to dive in with your thoughts. I'm counting on you guys; you've never let me down when it comes to hardware advice in this sub. :klap:
Bradley Lewis59 said:Look, if you’ve actually wired everything correctly and—this is the crucial part—adjusted the audio input and volume settings directly on the monitor itself, it really ought to be working. If things aren't behaving, don't be lazy; stop trying to cut corners by plugging stuff into random ports on your PC hoping for a miracle instead of just finding the right one. 😁
It was indeed a legitimate issue, though I only managed to get everything running after I went through the whole ordeal of restarting the entire system. 😵
George Sanders37 said:http://www.digitaltrends.com/monitor...2770hd-review/
I'm quoting this section from the article: "Since a PC won’t send audio signals over the HDMI connection, there’s a separate stereo jack for feeding in PC audio, as well as an S/PDIF digital input."
The thing is, you have to run a dedicated cable to get sound working—specifically a 3.5mm auxiliary cable, just like the one you'd use for headphones. You plug one end into the PC where you'd normally hook up your speakers, and the other goes straight into the monitor. http://www.prad.de/images/monitore/s...nschluesse.jpg That specific port shown in the image is labeled HDMI/PC/DVI PC audio.
Well, I already gave that a shot and I'm still getting nothing. Anyone have a clue what's going on?
I picked up this one: I hooked everything up, and this was the result: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rv24p22o9e...36.07.png?dl=0 I went into the Windows Control Panel, set it as the default playback device, and still... total silence.
I’ve got this Dell UltraSharp Monitor that acts as a bit of a hybrid setup, since it actually comes with a built-in tuner for cable TV. I mostly use it as my primary television, taking advantage of those integrated speakers.
When I switch over to PC mode, my usual routine involves using a standard set of external desktop speakers. However, I recently did some rearranging in my room, and now there’s simply no desk space left for those extra speakers. My goal is to have the audio route through the monitor's internal speakers even when I'm in PC mode—essentially treating them as my default audio output. I've spent some time tinkering with the settings and digging through the user manual, but so far, I haven't made any actual progress.
To be honest, I'm a bit lost on the fundamentals here; I'm not even entirely certain if I've hooked everything up correctly to begin with, let alone how to properly configure the software side of things.
Personally, I’d be much better off just grabbing a used motherboard; there isn't really any meaningful upgrade path if you stick with the 4690K 😉
I hear you, I realized the exact same thing. I was originally entertaining the idea of jumping to an LGA 1151 socket with a Core i5-6600K, pairing it with 16GB of DDR3 RAM and such, but once I crunched the numbers and saw it would cost $1667 plus, I decided it just wasn't worth the headache.
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series Memory: Corsair DDR3 1600MHz 16GB (4x4GB), Vengeance, Buffered, 9-9-9-24, CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 Graphic card: EVGA GTX 970 PS: Corsair TX 950W SSD: Samsung EVO 850 500GB HDD: 1TB Western Digital 7200 RPM HDD: 500GB Western Digital 7200 RPM Case: NZXT Phantom 410
I’m looking to pick up a new motherboard and CPU from Best Buy to complement this setup. I’ve been eyeing a couple of options:
plus
Or, honestly, I'd be open to any other Z97 board from ASUS, Gigabyte, or whoever else. What has your experience been with these? I’m planning on overclocking the processor right out of the gate, so I'd appreciate your thoughts.
fadedorca66 said:So, only the internet is acting up? Maybe just toss in a new network card...
That’s essentially my observation thus far; I haven't the slightest clue what specific component failed or exactly which functions have gone haywire, though it's quite clear things aren't operating quite as they should be...
There aren't any decent, high-end Z77 boards left in stock, so this is probably the best you're going to find locally.
I'm guessing you didn't accidentally fry that Z77-D3H, did you? 🕺
No, I managed to snap off a component while I was cleaning the board. I didn't realize what had happened until I slotted in a new GPU and realized the internet was dead. Upon closer inspection, it looks like a resistor or some tiny transformer just popped right off the PCB. 🤦
analogtiger19 said:Man, finding a decent overclocking motherboard for socket 1155? That’s going to be a nightmare... everything sitting on the shelves at Best Buy is just refurbished junk. 🤷
Hmm, it looks like I might need to pull the trigger on a new CPU as well, which is just my luck... what a headache.
I’m looking to pick up a new motherboard, primarily for gaming, though I am planning on doing some overclocking on the CPU—aiming for somewhere in the 4.2 to 4.5GHz range. I don't have a strict budget set in stone just yet, though I certainly wouldn't want to go overboard and drop something like $667 on it.
Here is the hardware lineup I’d be plugging into it:
So, what would you all suggest? What would be the smartest move here, or perhaps a slightly better upgrade path? (It is also worth noting that whatever board I choose needs to actually fit inside my current case).
Timothy Kim60 said:If those guys were pairing them with more powerful processors, then I don't see any reason why you'd bother with an Intel Core i3, especially since you won't be able to step up to better GPUs anyway—there’s just this massive gap in performance right after the NVIDIA GTX 960, the AMD Radeon R9 280, or even the 380. Maybe a leftover 280X if you're lucky.
I assume there's a contract extension involved here too? If the terms actually look good to you, go for it. Just keep in mind that whenever Verizon handed out hardware in the past, the quality was notoriously hit-or-miss. You're probably better off asking around on the dedicated Verizon thread.
Stronger in what way? http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare...300/2816vs1555 Either way, most software still relies heavily on just two cores; rarely do you see more being used effectively. Because of that, I honestly don't see how those two AMD chips manage to pull ahead.
Robert Rodriguez2 said:Yeah, generally speaking, the GPU is the heavy lifter when it comes to gaming. Even with those CPUs you're looking at, they should be plenty capable of keeping up with those cards—an Intel Core i5 can handle any of them, though an AMD FX 8300 might struggle without causing a significant bottleneck.
Given your specific budget, if you're willing to make a few compromises, an NVIDIA GTX 960 is really the only option from NVIDIA that fits. On the AMD side, you're looking at either a Radeon R9 280 or stepping up to something like a 380 if you can swing it. Anything beyond that is just going to be overpriced for the marginal gains you'll see; honestly, the graphics card alone would eat up about 60-75% of your total budget, which clearly doesn't align with what you're trying to do here.
Alright, so what’s your take on this particular setup?