If you can get your hands on a desktop—maybe borrow an old PC from a buddy—you could actually just plug directly into an open SATA port. If you’ve got the cables handy, just hook up the power and the SATA line, boot it up, and you can dump everything you need onto a thumb drive. Then, you can just slide those files right onto your new laptop without ever having to crack the casing open.
ps: Regarding that question about formatting the drive: if a prompt pops up asking if you want to format, just hit NO. It won't even start the process unless you give it the green light.
You could probably pull it off, but only if you install Windows 10 onto that specific hard drive while it's still sitting inside the laptop, making sure you grab all those internal hardware drivers too. The only real headache might be getting the Windows 10 license to activate... though honestly, it’ll likely run just fine regardless.
To rule out the outlet, try plugging in something simple like a hair straightener or a kitchen mixer to see if they actually get power in both positions. If you want to test the PC power cord, just swap it out for a different one and see if that fixes the issue. If nothing changes, then we’re looking at something deeper. You'll need to pull the power supply unit and check the capacitors on the 120V input side—those act as filters along with the dual choke before the bridge rectifier/diodes. There's a chance one of those caps has shorted out to ground.
Kenneth Cruz67 said:Well, if you aren't planning on doing a clean reinstall, then I suppose there isn't much point in downloading them 🤣
And I also think what Karen Doyle72 mentioned is quite valid—Windows usually comes with all sorts of pre-installed bloatware and malware anyway, so it might actually be better to just go with a custom installation 👍
- I grab the latest version as soon as it drops (you can see that in my reasoning in the first post). That way, when I'm setting up Windows 10 for someone else, I don't have to sit there forever waiting for a mountain of updates to finish.
- As for that "malware" thing you're saying about Windows 10... I sorted my own setup out ages ago, so I don't deal with any of those issues.😁
Where would I even get the idea that I'm doing a reinstall? I mean, I've never had any reason to go that route with my PC, and honestly, I don't see that happening anytime soon. 😁
Why even bother risking it all on some random third-party site when you can just go straight to the source? It’s way more chill knowing there’s zero chance of running into malware. That’s exactly why I haven't picked up a single virus or even some annoying junkware in five years.
Honestly, for the sake of your security and making sure everything actually works right, stick strictly to Microsoft's official sites. Avoid any other random links because you're way more likely to end up with malware infecting your system.
...just a heads-up: before you kick off the installation, unplug all your other drives. You really only want the one drive you're installing Windows 10 onto connected to the system. Once everything wraps up and the install is finished, shut down your PC, plug your other drives back in, and when you boot up, just make sure your BIOS is set to prioritize that Windows 10 drive as the main boot disk.
I would seriously NEVER touch my motherboard contacts with Western Digital lubricant. It leaves this nasty, thin oily film behind that just attracts dust, and once that happens, you won't be able to blow it off even with a heavy-duty air compressor. There are actual electronic cleaners out there for a reason, and honestly, some isopropyl alcohol works fine too—just make sure you let it sit for at least 15 minutes to dry completely before you plug anything back in.
It’s pretty likely that besides the cable getting yanked out of the Xbox at the flooded port, one of the internal wires snapped somewhere along the line. So, I'm looking at a new keyboard and a fresh battery for the motherboard, which should run me less than $33 in total. ps: If the keyboard doesn't have a native Xbox plug but still won't work with the BIOS via USB, you could always try a USB keyboard paired with a little USB-to-Xbox adapter.
You probably only checked that tiny 100MB partition, but there's gotta be more in there... I mean, the C: drive definitely should have them, assuming nothing wiped them out yet.
Could be a dead HDD. Try booting up from a CD/DVD or even a USB drive—maybe run Hiren's or some Linux—just to see what it says about your hardware, RAM, HDD, and all that stuff.
I can't see any images here. Check if your CMOS battery is actually hitting 3V. If it isn't, just swap it out for a fresh one and try getting back into the BIOS. Since all those BIOS settings live in the CMOS, a dying battery will make everything go haywire... Don't forget, once you pop a new battery in, you'll need to fix the time and date, probably switch the HDD controller over to AHCI, and set your boot order again.
Honestly, you just head back to the repair shop and tell them to give you back the Hard Drive they forgot to put back into your laptop after finishing the job.
If they just finished the install, there's a good chance they haven't even touched the Apple drivers yet. And if someone’s been poking around inside, maybe the ribbon cable connection to the keyboard isn't seated quite right...
Check if you have a restore point enabled, then just roll the PC back to the last date on the list (you’ll only lose your settings and any apps you've installed since then)... or just take the thing to a repair shop.
That "box" is basically just referring to one of those action cams, like a GoPro, which you can pair up with that condenser mic they sell. You can plug it straight into your PC, too, but if you use that little adapter with the micro USB, you can hook it right up to a GoPro. The whole "omni" thing just means the mic picks up sound from every direction—it’s not a directional mic that focuses on just one spot.
It’s basically your amplifier paired with the speakers that you plug the microphone receiver into.
ps: You just gotta double-check the specs to see what frequency it runs on so you don't run into any interference. Like, if the range is sitting somewhere between 87.5 and 108MHz, you could actually pick up local stations like ESPN Radio through the amp. It would work on pretty much any standard radio.