You can actually cut down on all that WiFi interference if you move some devices over to a wired connection. Another trick is to force some stuff onto the 5GHz band, which leaves the 2.4GHz lane open for your Windows 10 PC since that old PCI WiFi card is stuck on that frequency. Regarding the cabling—if you've got a thick Ethernet cable lying around, you could technically just use a standard phone line instead. If you crimp some RJ45 connectors onto it, it’ll handle up to 100Mbps without breaking a sweat for distances up to 20m, just like these two:
They sell them by the foot in different colors, just make sure whatever you pick has four wires inside.
If this were a constant issue, it’d be a massive headache, but since it just cuts out randomly right when things get going, it feels different. Besides, I’ve got my TCP/IP settings set to automatic on my end, and I haven't run into a single connection hiccup.
It’s like the Wi-Fi thinks everyone is sharing one single thin wire, so if one person starts hogging the bandwidth, everyone else just sits there waiting in line. It’s especially brutal for whoever has a weak connection or is struggling to hear the router over all the other loud signals in the house. To figure out if the problem is actually your router or just your PC and its wireless adapter, try plugging directly into it with a LAN cable and see if the drops still happen. If you're still getting kicked offline even when wired up, then yeah, something is definitely funky with the router itself.
If everything is within a few feet, you really should have been running a wired connection for your Smart TV, PC, PlayStation, or even a laptop. It’s just way better because they won't interfere with each other, and you won't be fighting against all those other WiFi devices in the house. Maybe the router just isn't picking up the signal from your WiFi adapter in your PC, especially if that thing is tucked away under a desk, sandwiched between a wall and the PC case. 😢
We don't know anything about the hardware here—what kind of Wi-Fi adapter are you rocking? What kind of router are we talking about? And how much distance is there between them? Are there several walls in the way? Also, is there a bunch of other stuff sucking up bandwidth near the router, like a Smart TV or something? What OS are you running on your Windows 10 PC? ...And why are you even messing with the IP settings? It should work perfectly fine on DHCP/automatic. Why would you turn "power save" on instead of just disabling it for the Wi-Fi adapter? It’s not like you’re trying to keep a laptop battery from draining overnight or anything.
A three-phase cable is going to have five wires—you've got your three phases (R, S, T), plus the neutral (N) and the ground (GND). It’s more likely you're looking at a standard single-phase outlet (three wires total), which is just one phase, the neutral, and the ground.
The thing is, that cable running from the Comcast setup to the Linksys Router is capping you at 100Mbps because that device lacks a Gigabit Ethernet port. Check out the first line under the specs here: https://www.tp-link.com/en/home-netw...specifications
(just look at the last sentence I wrote in my previous post)
- In a typical American home, 2.4GHz covers more ground than 5GHz. Think about it—higher frequencies just struggle more when they hit obstacles like walls or doors. - If you want that 300Mbps speed on the 2.4GHz band, you’ve gotta set the channel width to 40MHz. Otherwise, you’re stuck at 150Mbps. Basically, wider channels mean more speed, but you pay for it by losing range. It’s the same deal with 5GHz bandwidth. - Obviously, for those speeds to actually matter, your gadgets need to be able to handle them too. - Just a heads-up: don't get too excited about those theoretical numbers. Real-world speeds are usually about half of what's advertised. - You can actually set up an extra Access Point without killing the Wi-Fi on your current Comcast router. Just try to run an Ethernet cable out to the spot where the Comcast signal is getting weak. When you set it up, make sure both have the exact same password and SSID. Also, instead of leaving the channels on "Auto," pick them manually and make sure they’re spaced out—at least 4 channels apart from whatever the Comcast router is using. - I wouldn't recommend using a Wi-Fi Extender in repeater mode. Unlike an Access Point, a repeater basically cuts your speed in half compared to what your ISP is giving you. If you go the Access Point route, just make sure the device has a Gigabit Ethernet port to match the Comcast one.
If you didn't shrink it down further than just the actual data sitting on your C: drive, you're gonna run into issues because things like the Recycle Bin reserve their own chunk of space too. On top of that, you've usually got those two tiny hidden partitions hanging around without drive letters, taking up a few hundred MBs...
It’s totally possible those antennas tucked inside the top of the monitor are just subpar, leaving you with a weak signal. Plus, unlike a hardwired LAN connection, Wi-Fi is always at the mercy of everyone else in the vicinity. If your neighbors are hogging the bandwidth near the router, it can absolutely tank your speeds and cause those annoying drops. At the end of the day, all Wi-Fi gear follows that same 802.11 standard across both the 2.4 and 5GHz bands. You can't really blame one specific brand for the disconnects; there are only tiny differences from one manufacturer to the next, mostly just down to how the antennas are built or how much juice the adapter puts out.
The manual says you don't actually need it to be at 2.1 (check page 25, third line down). You can double-check this yourself by jumping into CMD mode, typing ipconfig , and just seeing which IP is assigned to the Gateway.
If that Wi-Fi Extender actually has an Ethernet Connector on it, maybe try plugging in directly with a cable to see if you can get into the settings...
First thing you gotta do is check the graphics card, then look at the power supply in your rig. Maybe try using the integrated graphics on the motherboard—just pop that card out of the PCIe slot and see if you get a picture on the screen...
It’s the exact same setup as your TV—basically, you just unplug the antenna from the television and plug it straight into the Sony DVB-T2 receiver (it’s that first port on the left if you're looking at the back). The image didn't actually post 😢 ..since I can't see what you're looking at, I'm guessing you're dealing with an F-type connector that screws on, unlike the standard TV plug that just slides right in. Maybe there was some kind of adapter (F-to-TV) sitting in the TV's antenna jack that you needed to pull out along with the cable itself? Also, I'm a bit confused—what kind of wall outlet are we talking about if you're just using a small indoor antenna? Try uploading your screenshots to https://imgbb.com/upload then just copy and paste the link you get from there. You definitely still need an antenna, though; the one you've been using should work fine.
...the instructions for WD-40 basically say it leaves a protective coating behind once you're done... I mean, there's really nothing else to add to that
Look, if we're talking about 2x20W of peak music power, you'd realistically be looking at maybe 2x12W RMS sine wave output. If that were the case, those batteries wouldn't last 15 hours—they’d probably die after two or three tops... unless they just made up some new (likely Chinese) way to measure wattage. If that thing were actually waterproof, you wouldn't even be able to hear anything coming out of it anyway. 😁
Wait, I don't get it... even today, when you're using PCs and the battery dies, all your saved settings just vanish. The simplest way to tell is by looking at the date.