Next time, maybe toss in what kind of laptop you're rocking and which OS you've got running (like Linux or Windows 7). Also, let me know if you're using an external USB Wi-Fi dongle or just the built-in one. If it's the built-in kind, check if there's a physical switch on the front or side of the chassis, or maybe a keyboard shortcut—you know, hitting Fn plus one of those F keys to toggle the Wi-Fi on or off.
...have you tried going into Device Manager, right-clicking that "iPhone 5" thing to uninstall it, and then hitting "action" and "scan for hardware changes" in the top menu? Usually, the system just grabs the right drivers itself once you do that. I've pulled that trick off more times than I can count when things get glitchy.
Honestly, it’d make way more sense if they were sitting on a different partition or a separate drive just to dodge this kind of headache. Check if there are any other user profiles tucked away in C :/ Users, then try digging through those for your files..
Why is it such a hassle to just list the laptop model and whether you're running Windows 7 32-bit or 64-bit? It would save us all from playing guessing games about what's left to try to fix this mess. Maybe you could boot into Linux using a CD, and if the network kicks in, you can just grab whatever drivers you need... .. or even head over to a friend's place with a blank CD, download everything you need from the web, and burn it onto the disc there. I’m guessing this is a newer laptop, so if it’s got decent specs, it'll definitely run better, faster, and more securely on Windows 10.... plus, you won't have to deal with the whole driver headache.
Head over to the manufacturer's website for your specific model—you can find the exact type listed on the sticker underneath the laptop. Look for their support section and hunt down the Windows 7 driver downloads for everything: chipset, audio, video, network, touchpad, all that good stuff. Once you grab them, just run the installs. ps: Try a different USB port too. Your mouse probably won't play nice with a USB3 port without those drivers, but it should work fine if you plug it into a USB2 port... ...just a heads-up, if it's a newer model, they might have dropped support for old-school Windows 7 entirely and only offer drivers for Windows 10. If the Wi-Fi is acting up, check if the Ethernet works. If it does, just plug directly into your router with a LAN cable so you can actually get online to download those drivers...
The power adapter has that round plug that goes right into the charging port soldered onto the laptop's motherboard. In your case, that connection has snapped. You’ll just need to swing by any local repair shop so they can resolder the joint back together.
https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/...Download/ Grab those drivers for Windows 7 64-bit (version 15.201) right here. Just a heads up though—if your Windows 7 isn't fully up to date, you're gonna want to download and install those two specific updates mentioned (KB 3033929 and KB 3035131) before you even touch the driver installation. It’s totally possible you might run into a black screen once everything boots up (you'll still see the BIOS-POST, so don't panic), especially if your monitor can't handle whatever resolution is currently set. If that happens, just hop into Safe Mode and try switching it to a lower resolution that actually works for your setup.
"....once I uninstall it, the computer actually works." Do you mean you're uninstalling the drivers for that graphics card, or are you talking about physically pulling it out of the rig?? ..if you're talking about drivers, they probably aren't the right ones for your specific version of Windows, so double-check that, and make sure your power supply cable is actually plugged in tight. If the PC only boots up when the card is completely removed... then yeah, it's likely dead.
The second I picked up this smart TV, I shut off the Google and plugged it straight into my Comcast router with an Ethernet cable. Now I can stream videos and cast photos from my PC, laptop, or phone to the screen without any lag. The main thing is, you gotta go wired.
I mean... at what point does it actually become easier to just copy everything over at a slower speed rather than pulling a whole DIY project, opening up the PC, and trying to cram two extra cables onto the drive?
...so why do you even need a drive bay? I’m pretty sure we're talking about a SATA drive here. You can just hook it up to another PC using an extra power cable you've got lying around (just make sure you unplug the data cable from your current rig first). Honestly, you don't even need to mount it inside the case for a quick fix. You can just let it sit out on the desk for the few minutes it takes to grab your files... just don't go banging it around or dropping it.
Sounds like you might be looking at some bad sectors on your drive. If I were you, I’d boot up a Linux live USB or maybe just pop in a disc to get things running. Use that to grab anything vital from an external drive—you know, those photos, docs, emails, or even your browser bookmarks before they're gone for good. Once you've got your stuff backed up, try booting from that Windows installation media you've got on the laptop to run a repair, or just jump straight into a disk check to see how bad the damage actually is. If the drive is truly toast, you're probably going to need to pick up a new or even just a decent used HDD to swap out that broken one and do a fresh install of Windows.
... right-click that bottom bar and hit "Task Manager" ...check it out when things start lagging to see what's eating up your resources—is it the CPU, the hard drive, the RAM, or maybe the network?
...maybe try pulling the battery out and running it without it just to see if it still overheats (it’s possible you've got some bad cells in there drawing way too much current).
...so when he told you to wait until that specific time passed... did everything seem fine once it finally wrapped up?
just please don't tell me you turned it off 😢 .... or that you can't remember the report it spits out at the end.
To boot from a USB, you've gotta tweak the "boot order" so that the bootable USB is set as priority one and the hard drive is second... check your laptop's manual to see which F key you need to tap during startup to get into those settings, or just dive straight into the BIOS. The impact probably caused some bad sectors on the hard drive, so if you can't get things working by booting Windows 10 from a thumb drive and using its repair tools, you should run some diagnostic software to check.
If the hard drive is pretty much toast, pull it out and plug it into a desktop PC. If the system recognizes it, grab all your personal stuff—documents, photos, videos, music, emails, browser bookmarks, whatever—then just swap in a fresh hard drive for the laptop.
You didn't scroll down far enough, man. We need to see the whole report. ...and what about that Disk Management screenshot? ...let's see what the current format is on there... exFAT, NTFS, whatever.
Try scouring some online marketplaces—like Craigslist or eBay—for a length of coax cable about 5-6mm thick that already has an SMA connector on one end. Then, just pop an F-type connector on the other side so you can plug it right into a standard American TV antenna.
You can't just stack those device speeds together because they aren't downloading data at the exact same moment. A LAN connection is full duplex—meaning it handles sending and receiving data simultaneously. That’s nothing like WiFi, which basically takes one millisecond to receive and the next millisecond to send packets since it operates on a simplex principle. Plus, if there's any other WiFi signal floating around nearby, the system has to wait for that noise to clear before it can push the next packet through... and honestly, that’s usually why your WiFi crawls, especially if you've got a bunch of different devices all fighting for space on the same channel. If you're running a WiFi device in "n300" mode (that's a 40MHz width), you're looking at a practical speed of maybe 150Mbps under perfect conditions. But, if you toss a range extender in the middle to try and boost the range, that top speed is going to tank down to about 75Mbps. If those devices are stuck in "n150" mode, the speed is cut in half again, and don't even get me started on the old "g" standard... Also, if your WiFi settings are set to "auto" for b, g, or n modes, the hardware will actually switch itself over to a slower mode if it detects interference. It does this because the slower modes have a bit more reach since their broadcast width is narrower.