Posts by wearymason4

...have you tried messing with the "Compatibility" settings in Windows 10? Just right-click the app, hit Properties, and toggle the "Compatibility" mode to Windows XP.

Wait, so is the USB set to MBR or GPT? It really ought to be MBR.

Yeah, you’re probably gonna need those SATA drivers for that chipset..

Powerline adapters (sold in pairs) basically turn your electrical wiring into a wired connection. They could be a lifesaver if the router you got from your ISP is capping out under 50Mbps. But, if your speeds are higher than that, you're gonna need the adapters that support 1Gbps ethernet.
The standard move is to plug your laptop directly into the powerline adapter using a LAN cable—assuming you haven't fixed that shaky wifi situation yet.
ps: have you tried going into your router settings and locking the wireless channel to a specific one instead of leaving it on auto?

LOL...just watched the video.

...I honestly think we’re looking at a partition issue here. You could probably set up 4 partitions—one primary and then three extended ones, each capped at 2TB.

A few people have run into similar headaches when messing with browser settings regarding http: vs https: if you go ahead and lock the browser down to https:...

Like, say this thing has two LAN ports you can use for a PC or a smart TV, plus WiFi, and then you just plug your main line from the modem into the WAN port (the blue one):
https://www.amazon.com/xiaomi-router-dual-band-gigabit-wifi/dp/B07X6S5M9C

My first run of Windows 10 was on an old-school 80GB IDE drive—I’d just upgraded from Windows 7 back then. After about two years of that, I cloned everything over to a 320GB SATA drive, split right down the middle.
Then, fast forward another two years, I picked up a 120GB Adata SSD and cloned my Windows 10 setup onto that. Here’s how things look currently:
https://ibb.co/Xkcr44Q

So, just how much space did you actually shave off the Recycle Bin?

...maybe check how much space is being hogged by the Recycle Bin first, then try shrinking it before you attempt to create that new partition again.
(just right-click the icon and hit properties)

Look, if those little indicator lights on your indoor antenna aren't glowing, you’re basically out of luck for getting any picture. It’s because that built-in amplifier ends up choking out whatever signal is coming from the antenna when there's no power running through it (you can tell it's dead by that missing light).
The hardware really matters here—something like a Sony Bravia setup or similar gear works best because they use a metal mesh circular reflector for the UHF band, which pushes the antenna gain above 9 dBi.
Even if you grab an amplifier rated at 20 dB, it’s not magic; it just boosts whatever it catches. If the initial signal is already weak, you’re just amplifying a bunch of static and noise along with it, so the output stays pretty much the same.😢
Those old telescoping antennas people used to use for TV in the US are pretty much obsolete now since we don't rely on VHF anymore, so there's no point in even messing around with extending them.
Most modern indoor antennas hover around 2.5 dBi without a reflector, which means they provide four times less signal. They’re only worth using if you’ve got a prime location, like a high-rise apartment with a clear line of sight straight to the local broadcast tower.
Honestly, the move is to go with an outdoor antenna. And if you aren't running a massive stretch of coax cable (more than 20m), you shouldn't even need an amplifier unless the broadcast tower is further away than about 9.3 miles.

...look, we already covered the TV situation, but when it comes to internet, if there’s fiber running right into the building, it doesn't really matter which provider owns the lines—you just want that fiber connection in your unit.
Regarding that Verizon service you're using, try running a speed test by plugging your laptop directly into the router with an Ethernet cable. Use something like the Ookla Speedtest to see what's actually happening. If the numbers look crappy, try moving the router closer to a window or even elevating it, then run the test again.
When you're relying on Wi-Fi between the router and your laptop, your speed is basically at the mercy of how much interference there is from other people's Wi-Fi networks on the same channel, how far away you are, and obviously, physical obstacles like walls.
At the end of the day, Wi-Fi just isn't a substitute for a hardwired connection, so it's always better to avoid wireless if you can help it.

Check out how much signal that laptop is actually pulling from the router. It’s possible the antenna connection on the internal Wi-Fi card is wonky, or maybe those tiny cables running up to the antennas in the screen lid got pinched or snapped during a repair.
It's a huge red flag if your phone shows full bars from the router, but the laptop is struggling with a weak connection.
Honestly, it happens all the time—someone opens up a laptop to clean out the dust, then gets a little distracted while putting it back together and forgets to snap those thin coaxial antenna leads onto the Wi-Fi card.

..it’s possible you've got the setting turned on in your router's WiFi menu to hide the SSID.

...it still works, even without activation.

The antennas don't connect via LAN cable; it’s just the DEVICES connecting to their own specific antennas.
Man, I wish you’d dropped a link to the specs or even just a photo. It might be possible to hook the antenna itself up to the Apple unit using a coax cable (maybe with some slight attenuation) if that antenna was actually built for those 3G/4G frequencies between 700-2700MHz.
Doing a quick search online, it looks like this thing is strictly for 5GHz, so a 3G/4G antenna wouldn't do the trick, and a dish would probably be too small to pull any decent dBi out of it. Honestly, you're better off listing that Router for a 5GHz PTP setup on Craigslist and just picking up some antennas like

If there's nothing on the G: drive, just wipe it out entirely. Once you've done that, you should be able to go ahead and extend the D: partition.

To even get into the BIOS, you’re gonna need a solid motherboard, CPU, RAM, power supply, and GPU all working together.
Check the manual to see if your board has debug LEDs or a speaker header—if you don't have a buzzer, just hook up a tiny little speaker to the 1 and 4 pin SPKR connector. If you think the memory might be acting up, try running it with just a single stick of RAM to see if that does the trick.

It shouldn't be much of an issue, you just have to make sure you set the right boot priority in the BIOS settings.
It feels like ages ago when certain motherboards would insist on having the boot drive plugged into the first SATA port, especially if that specific port had a faster transfer rate, but I don't really see stuff like that mentioned in manuals anymore.