Jonathan Wood5 said:A buddy over on another board suggested a fix, so I figured I’d pass it along here in case anyone else is running into this:
1. Hit "Win + R" to open the "Run" box, then just type "gpedit.msc" and hit enter.
2. Click "OK," and the "Local Group Policy Editor" should pop right up.
3. Head over to "Computer Configuration" → "Administrative Templates" → "System" → "Shutdown Options." On the right side, find "Turn OFF automatic termination of applications that block or cancel shutdown" and double-click it. When the window opens, switch the setting to "Enabled."
4. After that, the next time you power down, the PC should just go straight to black without asking questions.
I don't really get the point, honestly. I went through all those steps and I can't tell if there's any difference at all when I shut down my machine.
So, I just finished getting Windows 7 Professional (64 bit) up and running, and honestly, everything seems to be humming along perfectly so far. Big thanks to everyone for the pointers and advice.
Nah, the processor is actually a dual core. Here are the specs for my rig
I've decided to go ahead and install Windows 7 Professional but I'm stuck on whether to grab the 32-bit or the 64-bit version.
Basically, this laptop is just my go-to for browsing the web and chatting. I do some light work in Photoshop every now and then, and I'm pretty much living in Word most days, but I don't touch gaming at all—never have, never will.
Hmmmmm, I haven't actually made the jump yet. I'm still running on Windows XP, which is exactly why I'm asking which one would be the better bet to pick.
Thanks for clearing that up. Here’s what I'm working with: Intel Celeron 1.8 Memory - 4 GB DDR
I've got a few different versions of Windows to choose from: -WINDOWS 7 BASIC -WINDOWS 7 HOME -WINDOWS 7 HOME PREMIUM x86 x64 -WINDOWS 7 PROFESSIONAL x86 x64 -WINDOWS 7 ULTIMATE x86 x64
Which one do you think would be the best fit for this setup?
I’m a little lost here. I just ran a speed test on my connection and the numbers came back at 11.6 / 1.2 Mbps Since I’m definitely not an IT expert, my brain is trying to process this as if it means I'm pulling down 11.6 megabytes every single second. By that logic, I'd grab 116 MB in ten seconds, which means a 770 MB movie would be finished in about 70 seconds. But we all know reality rarely works out that smoothly. So, what am I actually looking at when it says 11.6 Mbps
I’ve been saved more than a few times by just making a full system backup and then hitting restore with Microsoft software when things go sideways. So, I’m looking to spin up a new backup, and naturally, I started purging the junk from my C: drive to keep the file size manageable. I noticed that the application data folder is sitting at over 1 GB. I remember hearing somewhere that this place is basically a graveyard for useless files that can be cleared out safely. If anyone knows what's actually safe to delete here without breaking everything, I'm all ears. Inside the application data folder, there are two main subfolders eating up about 1.5 GB total (local is at 1.05 GB and roaming is around 471 MB) Here’s a look at what’s inside
George Sanders37 said:You don't really need to open every single file—just grab one and pull out what you need; the system should automatically fetch the rest of the dependencies from the others. Just make sure you extract it from the archive into a separate folder first if you want to be able to mount the image.
You've got a point there. I tried extracting just one of them and ended up with two files: unknown and unknown. Once I ran those through PowerISO, I got a clean folder containing the setup file along with all the other necessary bits. Thanks
Nah, it turns out every single file inside all seven RAR archives has the exact same name. Basically, every one of those archives is just holding two files: N/A.bin N/A.cue And get this—every archive is sitting at 14,649 KB, except for that one weird outlier that’s only 2,123 KB
Why am I looking at seven identical RAR files here? Do I actually need to bother extracting every single one of them, or is just grabbing one enough? I heard somewhere that N/A handles those bin/cue files just fine.
So, I picked up this PC game, and when I went to check out the folder, I found seven different RAR files all sharing the exact same name (N/A). I'm a bit stuck on how to actually get the installation files extracted so I can get the thing running on my rig. The instructions say to follow these steps: 1. Unrar 2. Burn BIN\CUE 3. Install 4. Use the crack in the N/A directory on the CD! 5. Play! The thing is, inside every single one of those RAR archives, there are just two files (bin and cue). Can anyone walk me through the actual process here?
Oh, I see how it is. So, tell me—which one actually moves faster when you're transferring files? Is Dropbox better than Google Drive, or are we really just splitting hairs here?
I’m a little lost here. A buddy of mine overseas uploaded this video—about 800 MB—using speedyshare.com and sent me the link. It took him roughly two hours to get it up there. Then I try to pull the file down, and after four hours, I’m barely at the 50% mark. Yesterday, I tried uploading my own video (around 760 MB) to speedyshare, and that took me about two and a half hours. How is it even possible that my download speed is sitting at three and a half times slower than my upload? Is this just a speedyshare thing, or am I missing something obvious? If it is them, does anyone know of a better site where the upload and download speeds actually make sense?
I need to pick up a cable that’s got a standard USB plug on one end and some kind of tiny little USB connector on the other, but I’m stuck because I have zero clue what that miniature thing is actually called. From what I can tell, there are two different versions of this little guy—one is flat and the other is a bit chunkier. I've attached some sketches of both so maybe someone can take a look and let me know which is which.
Look, grabbing a movie from a torrent and finding some subtitles isn't the hard part for me. The real headache is when half the subs I download aren't even synced up with the video, and I end up losing my mind trying to get them to line up properly. For instance, I’ll manage to get the beginning and the end looking perfect, but then by the time the middle rolls around, everything is completely out of whack.
So, I’ve got this movie where the subtitles are totally out of sync—they start off fine, but by the end, they're all over the place. I tried using Subtitle Workshop, which has some great American English support, but I hit a wall. When I load the subtitles and the video file together, the screen just stays black. I can hear the audio perfectly fine, but nothing on screen. I’ve gone through the whole ritual of installing and uninstalling every version of the K-Lite Codec Pack I could find, but no luck. It's just a black void. Then, I moved on to that highly recommended software Subtitle Edit. Everything works flawlessly there—the video actually shows up—but honestly, I’m a bit lost on how to actually use it. For instance, if I want to sync up the very first word spoken with the very last one, how do I even tackle that? Is there anyone out there who can point me in the right direction?
Look, the ink is the genuine deal, straight out of the box and still vacuum-sealed in its cellophane. I just don't get why I can't print anything in black. The cartridge is perfectly fine—I literally just popped it in a couple of days ago. Before I swapped out the old color one, the black was working without any drama at all.
Looks like I'm staring down some bad sectors here. It’s got me wondering if there's a way to break into the command prompt since my Windows won't even boot up. I was thinking about typing in chkdsk /r C: to see if it can hunt down those bad sectors and isolate them.
So I've got this HP Envy series printer, and yesterday I finally bit the bullet and bought some genuine ink (CL-513). But here's the kicker: once I popped it in, the thing just refuses to print anything—not color, not even black. I keep getting this error message:
I already tried following these instructions, but no luck. Honestly, I’m starting to think the color printhead is toast, and I've kind of made my peace with that. But since there's also fresh black ink sitting right there in the machine, I was hoping at least the black would work. It won't. Even though the ink is definitely legit, it’s just dead air. I even went into the printer settings and toggled the "black only" option, but still nothing. Does anyone have a clue why I can't get even basic black printing to work?
