Posts by Robert Rodriguez2

crimsonstag84 said:What's the point if you're running a better 😲 😁
anyway?

as if I actually had 😬

crimsonstag84 said:A bucket that's barely even weaker than a GT 1030 😛

that's my point exactly 😂

Rachel Jones8 said:I thought I followed you at first, but Zec totally lost me with that whole tied-hands thing and the
bit about the 22nd. So the issue isn't actually the processor, it's just that the suggested build doesn't have two sticks of DDR RAM. If there's a way to just pop another module in later... then we're good.
Same goes for adding an SSD or whatever else.
And say I want to swap in an Intel Core i5 or something newer down the road... besides the chip itself, what else needs to go? Motherboard? Anything else? What about the memory?

Yeah, the PC will run fine with just one stick of RAM, don't sweat it. Hardly anyone fills both slots, let alone all four (at least not 🙂 )

If you want to jump to an i5, yeah, you'll need a new board (for now). Everything is still running on DDR3... which feels like throwing money away if you ask me. DDR4 is right around the corner, so you'd probably want a board that handles that instead. But honestly, who cares right now? 😉

Rachel Jones8 said:Look, most of this is over my head... but maybe I can ask a few things to make sense of it.

Zec says having only two RAM slots is bad because you're stuck for future upgrades.
On the other hand, Robert Rodriguez2 says having two slots is actually good because you can upgrade without selling anything first.
It sounds like they're contradicting each other.

So... I want to know if this processor (AMD A8-5600K processor) is dual-channel or not, and what "dual-channel" actually means. Like, how do you even tell from the specs on a website?
If I'm offered this processor with version
2 x DDR3 2048MB ( 2GB ) Crucial, 1600MHz, Value
versus version
DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Crucial, 1600MHz, CL9, HyperX, KHX1600C9D3B1/

does that have anything to do with being dual-channel?
If you put in two 2GB sticks, it's dual-channel, but if it's just one 4GB stick, it isn't... or does it depend on the processor? Is some processors dual-channel and others aren't?
Is this one? If it isn't, and dual-channel is better, does that mean I need two sticks of RAM?
Robert Rodriguez2 said this 5600 gets benefits from dual-channel mode... so it *is* capable, it just won't work that way if there's only one 4GB stick?

And if having two slots is bad and leaves you "stuck" (like Zec says), then it seems like this processor isn't dual-channel and you can't add more memory to make it run in dual-channel?

Robert Rodriguez2?
If there are two slots but only one stick of RAM, isn't the second slot free to use later for an upgrade?

What do you think about what Zec wrote... about how it would be better to get a lower wattage processor that is dual-channel (if this one isn't)?

I know you guys already tried explaining the dual-channel thing, but could someone explain it simply? Just plain English.
Because I don't get the issue with the processor itself... is it that the processor isn't dual-channel, or is it just that the version with one 4GB stick is worse because it doesn't run in dual-channel? And if I added another 4GB, would it become dual-channel?
Sorry if this sounds stupid... I'm just trying to wrap my head around what you've all been saying.
(If my friend hadn't pushed me into getting this all-in-one computer, I wouldn't even be thinking about changing anything for at least another six months while I researched... I just jumped into this blindly without knowing anything, so here I am... asking for help in terms a regular person can understand.)

a) The board has 2 RAM slots, meaning it can only hold 2 modules.
( Either you grab 2x2GB now and fill both slots—meaning you'll eventually have to swap them out for bigger ones—or you go with 1x4GB now so you can just pop another stick in later to hit 8GB.)

b) The processor isn't "dual-channel," that's how the RAM operates.
c) If you only have one slot filled, you're running in single channel. If both slots are filled with identical memory, then you're running in dual channel.🙂 ( dual channel )

d) I didn't say the CPU is dual-channel 😁 I said the CPU sees performance benefits when the RAM runs in dual channel.🙂If you’re looking at the CPU side of the APU, it’ll matter a little, but most of that impact hits the integrated graphics. It’s nothing massive, though—you won't notice a huge difference during basic everyday tasks. In a game, maybe you'll squeeze out an extra 2 or 3 frames per second compared to running in single channel, which isn't exactly a game-changer, but...

crimsonstag84 said:Man, he'd probably scam someone out of my GPU for $50 😬 just to make a quick buck.😁

It's basically a paperweight anyway.😂

That’s all well and good, but she isn't planning on swapping out her rig in two years just because that Pentium starts struggling.
Worst case scenario, let her try it with the stock cooler from that 5600k APU. If it turns out to be too loud, adding a decent cooler later is easy enough.

Rachel Jones8 said:🙂 Even Zalman isn't an option. Robert Rodriguez2, you got buddies monitoring this board or something? They know if I'm just gonna grab the expensive one if they tell me the cheaper stuff is out? 😁
Doesn't matter... I asked if there was anything cheaper, just in case they had a deal. If not, I'll just take whatever expensive model I have to.

Then why even list it on the site if the store doesn't actually have it? 😠
And now you're stuck with Cooler Master. :P

Rachel Jones8 said:What about noise levels?

Now we’re talking. I assume you tried to improve things in this version rather than making them worse.
My current rig is basically a relic at ten years old. I bought it pre-built... it was one of the top picks from the Microsoft selection of maybe 30 or 50 machines. They promised it would be easy to upgrade, but honestly, I haven't touched the internals once in nearly a decade. At this point, I just need something that doesn't sound like a jet engine, won't freeze during videos, and can actually open a basic webpage or document without taking forever. (Though my internet speed is trash too, which probably helps the lag... hopefully that gets better eventually.)
If what you're suggesting—regardless of which cooler I pick, though maybe the pricier one just because I don't feel like hunting for a third quote—actually handles what I need, then I'm happy.
Thanks again. 🙂

It'll handle the workload easily. As for noise, Zalman is quieter; Cooler Master hits about 36db, while Zalman stays around 32 according to the official specs 🙂.

Rachel Jones8 said:I don't know... I haven't gotten to that part yet. I was thinking about doing it online.

Use online banking—you can make a one-time payment without any hassle. You'll still get two packages delivered to your door. One box has the built PC, the other is just the component packaging. Plus, if you spend over $2,000, shipping is free, so don't sweat that.

Or just do COD. The mailman drops off the computer at your house, you hand him the cash, and you're done.😁

Rachel Jones8 said:I was just looking at the AMD site. Since that's such huge info, I figured it would all be listed right there.

I didn't realize. I thought if it just said FM, then that's it—if it said Intel Core i3, then that's what you go with.
There's no way to know... if they tell you to check the socket type, and there's only one option anyway.
Ugh... now what? Should I just ignore the difference of $33 or email them again for a new quote? I'm already annoying myself... imagine how you guys feel.
If I stick with the more expensive one... will it actually run cooler or quieter than the one you suggested? If those extra $33 make even a tiny difference in noise or heat, maybe I'll just leave it as is...
I'm basically asking myself here... but if anyone else has the energy... 😉

Zac mentioned something about dual-channel memory.
In your first suggestion, you proposed
2 x DDR3 2048MB ( 2GB ) Kingston Technology, 1600MHz, Value
Does that have anything to do with it? If that was the better move, why did you change it later?

Can you see the dust? 😂 You should've looked before I vacuumed. 😁
It was just some dust.
Am I changing the thermal paste? 😕 Where, when, why, how...
I know I'll regret it—this thing has been running in the dust for nearly 10 years without fresh paste or any cleaning spray...
Anyway, why would I even bother doing that on an old PC if I'm buying a new one?
(but thanks for the tip... obviously I'll look into what to do with the paste when the time comes...)

Look, the Cooler Master Hyper 212 is a better cooler. It has more surface area, and the metal heatsink is bigger than the Zalman one. But at stock speeds, it won't matter to you—maybe a degree or two. Better save that $33 in your pocket. 🙂

I went with 2x2GB because the APU (that 5600K) actually benefits from dual-channel mode. The downside is you're stuck for future upgrades; you'd have to sell the old RAM to add more. A single 1x4GB stick is plenty for now, and if you want to upgrade later, you'll at least have the option since the board only has 2 slots. 🙂

crimsonstag84 said:Honestly, upgrading that setup isn't really worth it. I guess you'd be better off putting at least $500 toward a whole new build with integrated graphics that actually beats what you have now, then maybe adding a card later.

Alternatively, you could probably pick up a decent used rig on Craigslist like this:

And pair it with a card like this:

Then you might actually be able to run most games, though maybe just on lower settings.

crimsonstag84, that idea isn't half bad. It's still a pretty capable quad 🙂, so you could probably hit medium settings instead of just running everything on low.

Rachel Jones8 said:Jason Harris5 tried explaining what matters when picking a cooler—specifically those socket labels.

The processor being suggested and picked only lists an FM label.
AMD Trinity A8-Series x4 5600 k 3.60GHz 4cores, FM2
So shouldn't the fan mention somewhere that it fits FM?
But it doesn't... it just says:
ZALMAN ZM-T2 bistriti, socket 775/1155/1156/AM2/AM2/AM3
No FM listed. 😕
(I was looking for AM3+ earlier because I was checking the wrong CPU)
I'm lost on which coolers even work, since most don't even list these designations.

If it works with FM1, it works with FM2. The mounting holes are identical.

It's the exact same deal as AM2, AM2+, AM3, and AM3+. 🙂 (That's how it works with AMD.)

With Intel, it's a different story. 😉

Rachel Jones8 said:Thanks, thanks... my English isn't great... but the photos look interesting. 😁
Though, I just kind of realized everything else along the way... it is what it is, wherever it lands. But the CPU—that processor—is hiding somewhere. 🤣

In this case, you've got the CPU and the graphics on the same chip, an APU.

And about that cooler! It’s a solid unit, but it is massive overkill for your setup 😁 (overkill means you don't need anything like that unless you're planning on overclocking, then maybe something like:
http://www.newegg.com/p/n/N82E16832116123 )
It's only about two bucks more than the Thermaltake option.

Rachel Jones8 said:Yeah, the case. Not the RAM... whatever. 😁
I'm opening it up to find... where the difference is from $33. Unless you didn't edit it. 😁

High, high... interesting.
I think I'll just grab it from ADM since they're closer (if I need help later), they handle their own shipping, and those guys downtown didn't exactly impress me.

How does the warranty work? Is there a separate warranty for parts, or is it like buying a pre-built where everything has one sticker (that you can't touch) covering the whole machine?
(sent an inquiry to ADM)

Can I add a card reader to the front of the PC?
Would that be this?

You can add it easily 🙂

The computer is built there under their one-year warranty, plus every single component has its own individual warranty too. 🙂

I don't know the exact amount, but over the last 3-4 years, I've dropped off as much of my own money as anyone else's there—over 30 bucks $0.00 😛 and never had a single issue.

Just built a rig for a friend there recently; we ordered the parts around noon, and by the next afternoon, everything was assembled and delivered (to a place like Chicago) 🙂

Since you're planning to overclock (pushing the processor speed past its Stock settings), just grab the cheapest Thermaltake cooler I listed for you.
I have no idea why they're charging you so much at Best Buy, but here's what I'm seeing:

1 x Asrock FM2A75M-HD+, Supports Socket FM2+ 95W / FM2 processes

1 x Processor AMD Trinity

1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1600MHz, CL9, Hyper X, KHX1600C9D3B1/

1 x HDD WD 1TB, Caviar Blue 10EZEX, 1000 GB, SATA3, 64 MB, 3.5", 24mj

1 x Power Supply Chicony, Advanced Highly HPA Series

1 x Zalman ZM-T2 PLUS micro tower case. 189(W) x 427.5(H) x

1 x DVD burner Samsung SATA Bulk Black, SATA

1 x Thermaltake Contac 16, 775, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, FM1, 1155, 1156

total
$846

EDIT: figured it out—you picked the more expensive case.😬

EDIT 2: shipping to downtown will be $13 via standard mail, and you'll get two boxes (one with the built PC, one with the component packaging).

Rachel Jones8 said:I think this is actually pretty close to what you suggested earlier. I just did a quick scan, and honestly, most of this looks like stuff you already wrote down.

Alright, scrap that.

So, adding one more... cooler... fan... is that the same thing? What counts as aftermarket?
You suggested: (the first two are yours)
-ARCTIC-COOLING Alpine 11 Pro 2, socket 775/1156 92mm PWM Fan $28
- Thermaltake Contac 16, 775,AM2,AM2+,AM3,AM3+,FM1,1155,1156 $46
- Spira Kepler Rev.2 86,98

Do I only need one of these? That Thermaltake was your last suggestion... is that enough?

Thanks a lot.
Is the list okay, or is there something you'd definitely cut because it sucks and swap for your own suggestions... or is it all basically there, so it doesn't matter much?
Edit: looking at it now... yeah, it's everything you suggested, just with a stronger power supply.

I'll look it over again tomorrow... seeing what I can put together from Advanced Highly HPA Series so I can... post it here and finally make a decision and send the order.

Feel free to grab whatever you want from that list.
As for Advanced Highly HPA Series, I've dropped a ton of cash there over the years. They’re pricier than the local shops... but the perk is that above $667 you get free shipping anywhere... plus they'll assemble it and run stability tests for free.
Regarding the cooler, Jason Harris5 explained everything perfectly... I wouldn't say it any better.
thermaltake is way to go
why did I pick AMD over Intel?
a) AMD has four physical cores which will definitely last you several years... plus the integrated graphics are stronger than Intel's, letting you play games occasionally on low or medium settings... unlike Intel.
b) Software is definitely going to utilize four physical cores for now, unlike Intel's setup of two physical cores plus two virtual ones (I've seen cases where hyperthreading just fails to perform), so it's better to avoid that headache.
c) Down the road, if you upgrade to a dedicated graphics card, you'll be able to pick much stronger models compared to Intel without worrying if the CPU can handle the GPU.
d) Even though I've used Intel my whole life, I went with AMD for my last build because the performance gap doesn't justify the extra cost... at least not for me.

Hope that helps.

Rachel Jones8 said:It took a bit to pull all the individual prices together... and figure out what everything actually is...
I did some digging, and with help from your comments, I put this together:
(If this all works together... I don't know if I'm missing anything or if this is basically everything that goes into a PC. Don't you need cables or something else specific?)

1. processor 704.99 (couldn't find the exact one at Best Buy that matches $22, like in the photo from Robert Rodriguez2)
AMD Trinity A8-Series processor

2. motherboard 384.73
Asrock FM2A75M-HD+, Supports Socket FM2+ 95W / FM2 processors $128

3. memory 286.80
DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1600MHz, CL9, Hyper X, KHX1600C9D3B1/ $96

4. HDD $137
HDD WD 1TB, Caviar Blue 10EZEX, 1000 GB, SATA3, 64 MB, 3.5", 24mo $137

5. power supply $69
Chicony Active 400W ATX PSU, CHI-HPA-400W $69

6. dvd 121.91
DVD writer Samsung SATA Bulk Black, SATA 121.91

7. case (180 -$153)
8. cpu cooler (85 -$47)
9. ssd ($220)

Prices are from a local shop... I'll check Best Buy later to see if building something similar there would be cheaper.

1-6 total 2116.21
7-9 total 945 -$420

Total for 1-9 ---> 3061.21 – 3376.21 including the case, cooler, and ssd.
Since not everyone included a cooler, I'm not sure if I even need one, but it's not exactly expensive.
I'm not sure what an SSD is... something for speed? Robert Rodriguez2 said I don't need it, so cutting 660 would bring it down to about 2400 -$900 which fits my budget perfectly. (Even with a nicer case)
Would this work?
Do I need two of those to have two partitions?

What I put together for you is more than enough for basic home use. Getting an SSD doesn't make sense for you right now (an SSD uses flash memory instead of magnetic platters and a read head like a standard hard drive; it's way faster, but they still have small capacities and are relatively pricey)
Every one of those Intel and AMD processors comes with a cooler, though with AMD, it's better to grab an aftermarket one since it's quieter and cools better.
You don't need two drives just to have two partitions.
You can physically partition a single drive during the Windows installation, so that shouldn't be an issue.🙂

I don't get the point. When you're working with a tight budget like $2,500, why bother? $1000 Checking out cases from... $133...
You aren't even looking at high-end parts that need some crazy, over-the-top cooling setup, and honestly, you don't actually need it anyway.

I already laid out exactly what you can get for $2,500, so there’s zero point in blowing more cash. For the basic stuff you're talking about, you don't even need an SSD or 8GB of RAM.

1 x Asrock FM2A75M-HD+, supports Socket FM2+ 95W / FM2 100W processors.
1 x AMD Trinity A8-Series x4 5600
Just one stick of 4GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX RAM, 1600MHz, CL9. Simple enough.
One Western Digital WDC WD1600AAJB-00J3A0, 1TB Caviar Blue, 1000 GB, SATA3, 64 MB, 3.5", 24-month warranty.
1 x Chicony HPA-350W, Advanced Highly HPA Series
1 x Samsung SH-224DB sat Bulk Black DVD burner, SATA
One Zalman ZM-T2 PLUS micro tower case. 189(W) x 427.5(H) x 364(D)mm.
One Thermaltake Contac 16, fits everything from 775 to AM3+.

$836
Here’s what changed from before:
Get a bigger drive and an extra CPU cooler.

You absolutely don't need to waste another cent on this. 🙂
Check out the official site at www.adm.gov.

Chloe Vaughn28 said:I don't really know much about memory, phones, and stuff like that, so I need some help! I'm planning to buy an iPhone 5 which has 1 GB of RAM, and now I'm wondering if 1 GB is a lot or a little, and if the phone will actually be fast.

You can't upgrade the RAM on a phone
It comes straight from the factory like that, just like 🙂

fadedorca66 said:Good grief, you guys suggested ten different builds, and they’re all basically the same thing anyway. Nobody even mentioned a budget, nobody asked for help putting one together, and honestly, nobody even showed up here to ask... you just made a total mess. 😬

I put his parts in my cart, it came out a few bucks under $600. 🙂