Up until about a year ago, I was rocking one of those 3-in-1 HDMI switches with a remote—used it to swap between my receiver, the DVD player, and my laptop.
I’d just use the remote to pick which input I wanted to see, and most of the time it worked fine, but man... it would glitch out sometimes. It wouldn't switch to the right device, so I'd have to unplug everything and plug it back in just to get it working again for maybe two weeks at a time... I can't recall the specific model right now, but I grabbed it off Amazon, so the build quality was always a bit sketchy to begin with.
It looks something like this , though I'm sure you can find even cheaper ones out there somewhere...
Man, I used to just grind through everything manually in Excel, then I eventually figured out how to use the Mail Merge feature to handle all the sizing and printing stuff automatically... it saves so much time.
Check it out, kind of like this https://www.extendoffice.com/documen...e-qr-code.html
There are plenty of plugins out there too, but honestly, who knows if they’re actually safe to install on your computer? A bit risky...
Megan Morris70 said:I actually tried that too, just forgot to mention it... It’s basically the opposite for me. I can't get image uploads to work in Chrome at all. So I switched over to Mozilla—or whatever it's called...—and then I can upload the photos just fine. I write the post, attach the pics...
But if I head back to the forum using Chrome, everything where I put the images is just totally gone (?!).
Maybe try clearing your cookies and cached images (Clear browsing data). Just a heads up though... don't wipe your history if you actually want to keep it.
It happens sometimes... clearing things usually does the trick, but if not, you might have to reset to default settings though you'll lose your bookmarks and saved passwords since it goes right back to factory settings.
Might be an extension or something you installed by accident... like a script blocker or something... and that's why it won't show up.
I don't actually use Zoom myself, but honestly, everything works on pretty much the same settings anyway. If your audio sounds fine elsewhere and even passes those built-in tests, then I'm betting it’s just some weird little setting buried in there somewhere.
I don't want to go out on a limb here, but maybe take a look at these links... might give you a clue about what's acting up.
Jerry Robinson56 said:It is possible, though you would need specific "tools" to grant you that level of control—you could always try reaching out to your ISP to see if they offer such features. However, it is far simpler to just kill the Wi-Fi signal entirely. You could wire up a second router—perhaps pick up an old one from a thrift store—set it to an open network, and plug its power adapter into a simple mechanical timer... 😁
And then, of course, there is the version for those who prefer more advanced methods.
A more capable electronics enthusiast could simply wire a contact relay in parallel with the Wi-Fi power switch. You’d get an LED indicator to show when the signal is cut, and that would be that. Just use a timer... end of story. If you manage to find one, I can send over an electronic schematic ... but you would have to actually crack open the router itself. It works perfectly, but unfortunately, you won't be able to achieve this through software alone.
Honestly, if he's hunting for an old router, he should look for one that actually lets him do what he wants. Like, something with built-in scheduling, or maybe even OpenWRT if he doesn't want to go the hardware hack route, since he wouldn't even need to solder stuff or cut the power...
It’s honestly best if the router itself handles everything... because if the kids sitting at the PC can just bypass Google Family Link, then what's even the point? Unless they're just hopping on as regular users, otherwise they'll just google how to get around it in two seconds... 🙂 You could always grab a separate WiFi router to manage things, but yeah, that’s an extra expense you gotta deal with. On Windows, there’s that built-in parental control stuff to limit screen time, but that only works if they aren't using that same computer for schoolwork too...
So, if you just send it straight from your gmail account, does that count? Just jumping in on what Maher95 said... so, if you look at your Gmail inbox, way down in the bottom left corner, it actually shows you how much storage you've got left. Don't forget though, that 15GB limit covers your whole Google Drive too. So if you've got stuff syncing up or you're uploading massive files to the cloud, that's gonna eat into your space just as fast. Throw in some spam and all those other categories and suddenly you're out of room...
Also, try sending an email to yourself—like, use the exact same address to send it to itself.
ironcyclist58 said:And if you just switch the setting to WGS84 on Google Maps, it gives you the decimals directly... so you don't even have to bother with any conversions.
Look, I already mentioned that earlier, but they're saying they can't see it. So yeah, I tried to help, but honestly, I'm tapped out... nothing else I can say.
Sam Peterson6 said:I honestly have no clue where you're seeing coordinates like 43.unknown, 16.unknown. What you're looking at is degrees, minutes, and seconds, and you can't just plug that kind of format into mobile navigation. What I actually need are decimal ones, like 43.748939,16.4257923.
Look, I know, which is why I told you right at the start that if you go to under WGS84, you'll find exactly what you're looking for. But you said it wasn't working on your end, so I suggested using an unknown converter to switch them over... but since even that seems like a hassle, I put together a little example for you below.
So, the spot I was checking was a pillar over by Central Park. Using the unknown system, it shows up as 45° 46' 44.85" 15° 55' 56.83"... I plugged that into this online converter https://www.fcc.gov/media/radio/dms-decimal where you just type the numbers into the boxes—degrees first, then minutes, then the seconds in the last box... so from my example, that would be 44.85. Hit convert, and boom, there's what you need. Using that example, you get 45.779125 15.932453. If you paste that straight into Google Maps, it'll take you right to Central Park, and you'll see both the decimal and the DMS versions right there...
Sam Peterson6 said:I saw that info on the unknown system, but here's the snag: the coordinates are showing up like this: E N: 468544,25 4816827,5 but I really need them to look more like 43.xxxxxx, 16.xxxxxx See, that's the only way I can plug them into my phone to actually find the GPS spots I stumbled upon this online converter but I'm totally lost on which box gets which number I just can't seem to get it into the format I need
Yeah, even on the unknown system, it shows those exact values.
Even if you're just using http://google.com, there's a bar at the bottom that shows the coordinates instantly without you having to click a single thing.
I'm honestly stumped... maybe try logging in from a different computer? You might have some weird plugin installed that's blocking scripts or something similar...
So, if you zoom in on your lot using Google Maps, look at that black bar down in the bottom right corner where it says HTRS96/TM. Just click that, switch it over to WGS84, and boom—you’ll see the coordinates right there on the right. Then you just hover your mouse along the edges or hit the corners of your property line, and you'll see those numbers shifting as you move...
If you grab the exact coordinates from one of the corners (let's say something like 45.7988474, -15.9903064), you can just copy and paste them straight into Google Maps, and it should drop the pin right where the portal shows it.
But honestly? It’s super glitchy. The accuracy is pretty sketchy, so if you rely on it too much, you might end up accidentally trespassing on someone else's land... and that's a headache you don't want...
I'd say just pay a pro to do it properly. That way, you know exactly where you stand and nobody can come knocking on your door claiming you're on their turf.
So, once you get everything rebooted, just go ahead and install the CIA software yourself.
If you’ve got a mouse handy, just hop into Device Manager, right-click, hit update driver, and see what happens... if the keyboard is actually working, just stick to using that instead. You could always plug in an external mouse or a spare keyboard to make things easier, too.
Anyway, it really shouldn't be much of a headache...
Just one thing I gotta ask... Are you having trouble getting the VPN to actually connect at all, or does it connect just fine but then won't let you reach the specific site you're looking for?
Honestly, maybe grabbing a paid VPN would be the move... they usually put way more effort into it, constantly updating stuff and swapping out servers...
I don't even want to get into the weeds explaining all the steps, so I just made this video for you. It'll make way more sense once you see it...
The whole trick is to grab that hardware ID, throw it into Google, and see what kind of driver options pop up. Sometimes, though, the search results give you the wrong stuff... which is a pain. It’s actually much better if you just head straight to the manufacturer's site—since I can tell you're rocking an HP laptop, go right to them. Much cleaner...
James Taylor28 said:Everything’s fine now. Turns out there wasn't even a connection issue—just a setup one. My parents were told they needed to grab an extender to boost the signal at their place, but I realized the thing wasn't actually paired with the router. All they had to do was hit the WPS button on the extender.
WPS?
Man, that's risky. If you know even a little bit about networking, you're probably better off securing things a different way...
